how to stop leaking fork seals

[98valk]

I added some ATP AT-205 re-seal to fork fluid.   500 miles later, zero leakage.  at 1k miles now still dry.
many fork oils already have some seal sweller in them, I know the Amsoil fluid I use does, so I just added some more and a better product.

https://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

scotty kilmer approved.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Scotty+Kilmer+at-205

[F6Dave]

How much did you add?

[98valk]

about 1/2 oz each fork.
lost some of my notes and the website that has a ratio to use for hydraulic systems and shocks.

[da prez]

  Do you notice any difference in the ride.

                                    da prez

[98valk]

  Do you notice any difference in the ride.

                                    da prez

zero difference.

[Relax]

I added some ATP AT-205 re-seal to fork fluid.   500 miles later, zero leakage.  at 1k miles now still dry.
many fork oils already have some seal sweller in them, I know the Amsoil fluid I use does, so I just added some more and a better product.

https://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

scotty kilmer approved.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Scotty+Kilmer+at-205

How did you add it?
Where can you fill in?

[98valk]

I added some ATP AT-205 re-seal to fork fluid.   500 miles later, zero leakage.  at 1k miles now still dry.
many fork oils already have some seal sweller in them, I know the Amsoil fluid I use does, so I just added some more and a better product.

https://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

scotty kilmer approved.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Scotty+Kilmer+at-205

How did you add it?
Where can you fill in?

via the fork caps. brought them up high enough to add the ATP.   

[Chrisj CMA]

I added some ATP AT-205 re-seal to fork fluid.   500 miles later, zero leakage.  at 1k miles now still dry.
many fork oils already have some seal sweller in them, I know the Amsoil fluid I use does, so I just added some more and a better product.

https://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

scotty kilmer approved.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Scotty+Kilmer+at-205

How did you add it?
Where can you fill in?

via the fork caps. brought them up high enough to add the ATP.   

Also by opening the fork caps you released any pressure that may have been building up in there.  I happen to subscribe to the building up pressure theory.

[F6BANGER]

I have been reading about a few people having carburetor o-ring leaking lately. Im curious if it was put in the fuel, would it help with the o-rings on the fuel rails? Anybody else pondering this?

[Valker]

I have been reading about a few people having carburetor o-ring leaking lately. Im curious if it was put in the fuel, would it help with the o-rings on the fuel rails? Anybody else pondering this?

I have been wondering that exact same thing.

[98valk]

Seafoam shrinks and Berryman B12 swells Buna-N o-rings.
  I've posted before chemicals in Seafoam deteriorate Buna-N over time.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/my-o-ring-swelling-test.129732/

[Chrisj CMA]

I have been reading about a few people having carburetor o-ring leaking lately. Im curious if it was put in the fuel, would it help with the o-rings on the fuel rails? Anybody else pondering this?

I have been wondering that exact same thing.

I’m thinking not because the fluid that leaks out is not all oil. Maybe a film of oil but so little of any additive would be present. Viton O-rings and forget about it.

[98valk]

I have been reading about a few people having carburetor o-ring leaking lately. Im curious if it was put in the fuel, would it help with the o-rings on the fuel rails? Anybody else pondering this?

I have been wondering that exact same thing.

I’m thinking not because the fluid that leaks out is not all oil. Maybe a film of oil but so little of any additive would be present. Viton O-rings and forget about it.

in our application nothing really special about viton, and Buna-N is considered better for gasoline. Also there are a few different grades of Buna-N, which grade did Honda use,  have no idea, however I'm sure it was the better grade.

""Buna o-rings:

    Excellent resistance to petroleum-based oils and fuels, silicone greases, hydraulic fluids, water and alcohols
    Low compression set
    High tensile strength
    Abrasion resistance
    Superior performance in ethanol/methanol blended gasoline

Viton® o-rings:

    High temperature resistance
    Outstanding chemical resistance
    Low compression set
    Ozone resistant
    Low outgassing

While both materials have high resistance capabilities, Viton® o-rings are capable of withstanding higher temperatures while Buna o-rings offer better lower temperature performance. ""

https://www.applerubber.com/blog/how-to-make-the-right-choice-between-viton-and-buna-o-rings/

[Joe333x]

I have been reading about a few people having carburetor o-ring leaking lately. Im curious if it was put in the fuel, would it help with the o-rings on the fuel rails? Anybody else pondering this?

Once o rings start to fail and carbs or forks start leaking the best thing to do is just to replace them. I've never rebuilt forks or carbs before and I was able to do both myself from watching videos and using the service manual. If you're trying to stop leaks caused by old dry rubber by adding different additives you're just wasting money and chasing a dragon.

[Led]

LOL!!!  I agree!!!
Everyone looks for a "miracle in a bottle".....
Sure.....it MAY work for a while, but the problem will be back even worse later. 
NEW parts are always the answer!

[98valk]

 depends why they are leaking. All fork oils have a seal sweller in them, and needs to be replaced over time.

[Speedy Coop]

I just tried the ATP AT-205 (had one fork seal slightly wet) seems to be working so far. I added 1/2 ounce to each fork, if the seals fail at a later date then I will change them. I usually do not put much faith in chemical fixes but it was easy to do so why not? Time will tell.

[F6Dave]

Usually a few cleanings with the Seal Doctor completely stops a fork seal leak. But on my F6B I cleaned a leaky left seal multiple times, yet a slight oil film would still show up on the tube after riding a while.

So, I added a half ounce of the AT-205 Re-Seal and after a few rides the leak appears to be gone. Accessing the fork caps on the F6B requires removal of some plastic body parts, but it is far easier than pulling the fender, calipers, wheel, and fork in order to replace a seal. I'm a believer!

[h13man]

I eventually replaced my 24 yr. old seals recently. I got a Seal Mate if needed from here on out but no easy way out. Just replace them. And you got to lift the bike to add the additive. 

BTW Chrisj CMA, thanks on the "no complete teardown" tip for servicing of the forks.

[rug_burn]

Yes, no doubt: better to just replace them, (unless we're talking about expensive parts such as carb diaphragms in which case, glue the holes up as long as you can)

But, I'm replacing my fork seals right now, for the second time after 200k miles, and I gotta say, I got a heckofa lot of pits right down on the bottom of the fork tube, just where the 'stone deflector'  has that little 1/8" gap.   I polished them flat to the rest of the tube, better than I did last time, with a soft Arkansas stone so no burrs are sticking up, but there're still small pits.   But I wonder how much, if any it affects the seal.   After they're polished out, they're not too deep.
     Anybody have the same problem, and have any good ideas to fix them??   My bike has spent a lot of time in the desert with sharp stones and dust storms but i gotta believe this is universal.   
     Meanwhile, Ill put the electrical tape back over that gap...

[98valk]

Yes, no doubt: better to just replace them, (unless we're talking about expensive parts such as carb diaphragms in which case, glue the holes up as long as you can)

But, I'm replacing my fork seals right now, for the second time after 200k miles, and I gotta say, I got a heckofa lot of pits right down on the bottom of the fork tube, just where the 'stone deflector'  has that little 1/8" gap.   I polished them flat to the rest of the tube, better than I did last time, with a soft Arkansas stone so no burrs are sticking up, but there're still small pits.   But I wonder how much, if any it affects the seal.   After they're polished out, they're not too deep.
     Anybody have the same problem, and have any good ideas to fix them??   My bike has spent a lot of time in the desert with sharp stones and dust storms but i gotta believe this is universal.    
     Meanwhile, Ill put the electrical tape back over that gap...

those pits are just tearing up the seals. best is to replace the lowers.  
what I did was add some chrome edging to those shields to provide more protection.
Also there are gaiters avail that could be installed to completely protect the lower tubes.

https://sealsavers.com/products/zip-on-sealsavers

[F6Dave]

I just got back from Inzane, a 2,000 mile trip. The fork I treated with ATP Re-seal didn't leak a bit. What great results for such a simple fix! I truly appreciate this tip.

[rug_burn]

Yeah, I agree, new fork tubes would be ideal, in a perfect world...  But that's easier said than done.  I think they're good enough for right now, and not leaking.   Those pits are so low on the fork tubes that the seals should almost never get down that low.  They're actually hard to feel with your fingers after I flattened them out with the arkansas stone.  You can kind of see the marks from it on the chrome.  I think the chrome plating fractured, and this was the main damage, and easily removed.  The pits are actually fairly shallow.

Here's a shot of what I'm talking about:
  
  Doesn't anybody else have these?   That's hard to believe...

[Rosie]

So you can add some oil to the forks by just taking off the fork caps and dump it in? Mine leaked down over winter a little and after fork mate tool seem ok but i gotta be an ounce or so low.

[98valk]

So you can add some oil to the forks by just taking off the fork caps and dump it in? Mine leaked down over winter a little and after fork mate tool seem ok but i gotta be an ounce or so low.

just add about 1/2 oz each fork.
lost some of my notes but the website that has a ratio to use for hydraulic systems and shocks.

don't worry about that minuscule amount of loss fluid over the winter.

[Joe333x]

So you can add some oil to the forks by just taking off the fork caps and dump it in? Mine leaked down over winter a little and after fork mate tool seem ok but i gotta be an ounce or so low.

If its not bottoming out I wouldn't worry too much, I filled my to factory spec when I replaced my seals and it was too harsh with the progressive springs. I removed an ounce from each side and it made it softer.

[Pluggy]

A good fork seal, even a new one, can occasionally ingest a particle. Seal Doctor (or the $8 look-alike) can remove that particle. It stopped a small leak on my bike. We can't expect it to rejuvenate a worn out seal. New seals go on mine when it comes time to replace the front tire.

[98valk]

A good fork seal, even a new one, can occasionally ingest a particle. Seal Doctor (or the $8 look-alike) can remove that particle. It stopped a small leak on my bike. We can't expect it to rejuvenate a worn out seal. New seals go on mine when it comes time to replace the front tire.

wow, u must do a lot of wheelies and ride off road a lot, to replace them each tire change.

[98valk]

now at 5500 miles and zero leaks. forks are dry like they should be.