Steve K (IA)
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« on: March 10, 2009, 11:59:14 AM » |
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the forks. Seen this post about 2-3 weeks ago and should of copied to a Word Doc. and didn't. Now I can't find it. The archives stop at Dec. 2008. I can't remember who made the post. If the original poster see's this or someone saved the instructions, could you please re post or forward on to me? Thanks, Steve K
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 States I Have Ridden In
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Bone
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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2009, 02:11:21 PM » |
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longrider
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« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2009, 06:05:16 PM » |
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I scanned this from the hard copies I keep for info while servicing. Hope this helps
Fork seals - (without removing fork tubes from valk)
I successfully changed my Fork seals this weekend (with the help of info & photos by Big BF & Britman. I did buy the Honda pipe bolt Nut Remover Tool (44mm) (which I did not use). 5/23/2006 So: if you are just going to change the “seals” and/or the fork “bushings” you do not have to remove the Left #11 Fork Pipe Bolt or the Right #19 Nut & #6 spring Seat, which hold in the springs. iust remove the top “Fork cap #18 AND the “Dust seal #27 then the “seal Retainer clip #17 , then the Slider legs will come out with the springs still internally captivated. )ust a few firm slides of the slider leg against the old seal and she’ll pop right out. Now another Trick: I did not remove the Fork Tubes from the valk. I jacked the bike up on my Jak-Lift high enough so that I could pull the sliders down out of the Fork Upper Tubes. of course the oil came out too, but that i directed (mostly) into my drain pan by wrapping newspaper around the Fork Tube. I changed my Fork Bushings too, there was a little play in them (4 bushings aprox $35.). The Seals ran me $36. (all Honda parts). Took me about 3 hours. Then I had to replace wheel.
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Motorvalk
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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2009, 08:23:38 AM » |
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Where did you get your U.S map that you can color the states you've visited? Been looking for one of those.
Alvin
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longrider
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2009, 08:58:45 AM » |
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valkeire
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2009, 03:32:36 PM » |
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I had to replace a front fork seal over the weekend, and this time I did it a little differently. The last time I replaced one, I found it a bit difficult to press in the strut seal.
Before, I used both the half seal and some plastic tube to fit the seal. It is not easy to get a clean insertion in as far as the circlip groove. This time I put the old seal on the slider between the new seal and the dust seal.
After inserting the slider into the upper tube, it was much easier to drive the new seal into the upper tube using the old seal. I used the square plastic handle of a t bar allen key wrench as a driver, and a few taps of a plastic mallet. It was easy to hold, and with the old seal in one piece, went in first time up to the groove. Circlip went in first time.
I just then pulled the old seal down to near of the end of the slider, slid a feeler guage blade between the tube and old seal for protection. Then with a small grinder I cut the old seal off.
It was then just a matter of sliding up the new dust seal into place.
Valkeire
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Ken 11861
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« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2009, 05:33:46 PM » |
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Steve K & Longrider, I made that post on the "Fork Seals without removing fork tubes" again on 2/25/2009, but originally in 2006. Too bad we seem to have lost some of the archive sources and with that the credability some of us had built up over the years here. It looks like I just signed on but was a member since 2001. Such is life 
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
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Ken 11861
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2009, 05:03:33 AM » |
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By request I posted "Fork Seals Replace" (2/25/2009 10:59:33) I have the hard copy so I would not have to look up the info again. I have search for this post in Old Tech Archives and I could only see posts up to 10 Dec 08. So I went to the current search and could only get back (8 pages) to 2 Mar 09. To me there seems to be a gap. Would appreciate guidance.
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
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Scott in Ok
Chief Worker Ant
Administrator
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Posts: 1157
Oklahoma City, Ok
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« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2009, 06:51:29 AM » |
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By request I posted "Fork Seals Replace" (2/25/2009 10:59:33) I have the hard copy so I would not have to look up the info again. I have search for this post in Old Tech Archives and I could only see posts up to 10 Dec 08. So I went to the current search and could only get back (8 pages) to 2 Mar 09. To me there seems to be a gap. Would appreciate guidance.
I just checked, and the current search goes back to December of '08, right where the Archives leave off. Very soon, it will all be in the Archives. Another problem with searching for posts by specific people on the old board is alot of you never typed your handle the same each time. Ken for example, you used Ken 11861, 11861 Ken, Ken#11861, KEN11861, Ken Hill, ken Hill, Ken Hill 11861, and Ken #11861. Of course, that can't happen now. You're stuck with this one handle.  -Scott
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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!
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Ken 11861
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« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2009, 08:54:39 AM » |
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Thanks Scott
You got me clean ... I sure used a lot of handles. I appreciate your info & patience.
Ken
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
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Quicksilver
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« Reply #12 on: May 01, 2009, 01:31:53 AM » |
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Longrider, how did you determine the amount of oil you had in the fork. I just changed the seal in my left fork. I removed it from the bike completely and used the method described at http://twowheeled.net/ForkSeal.htm. It worked well to replace the seal, however when it came time to add the oil, it says to compress the fork completely and measure down from the top 135mm(5.3 in). If I do this the castle nut blocks the top of the tube preventing access to the oil below for measuring. I'm wondering if I missunderstood compress the fork completely. If I compress it until the rod at the top of the spring is flush with the top of the tube I can dip the tube for oil level. In thinking about it, I figure there is a column of air above the oil 5.3 inches in length that is needed. So the air is compressed by the oil when the fork is compressed. Bottom line is how did you measure the oil level. Thanks Quicksiver
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1997 Standard  
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Ken 11861
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« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2009, 08:08:53 AM » |
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Because my fork tubes were completely drained I filled them by cc volume amount given in the Honda Manual. That worked out perfect,been running since Sept 2006 on that seal & oil change.
If you want a good Fork Seal thread see old tech archived archives, do the range Aug 1 thru Nov 1, 2006
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
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F6Dave
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« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2009, 06:35:47 PM » |
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Back a few years ago Chet posted a great article on this subject with pics. He changed the seals without removing the forks from the clamps, and without using Honda's special tool. I've done it both ways and his method saves hours of time. I think I kept it on another computer as a PDF so I'll take a look.
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F6Dave
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« Reply #15 on: May 01, 2009, 06:53:07 PM » |
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I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool. I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.
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Valker
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Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2009, 07:12:58 PM » |
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I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool. I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.
I'd like it: Valker1(AT)hotmail.com
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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Disco
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Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject
Republic of Texas
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2009, 09:22:32 AM » |
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I'd like it, too.
dfgarbOBVIOUS@tx.rr.com
Thanks
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike 22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT 78 CB550K 71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper .jpg) VRCC 27,916 IBA 44,783
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PAVALKER
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Posts: 4435
Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213
Pittsburgh, Pa
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« Reply #19 on: September 12, 2009, 11:32:15 AM » |
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And a copy to me please, at pavtxer@hotmail.comThanks.
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John 
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Steve K (IA)
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« Reply #21 on: September 12, 2009, 02:36:30 PM » |
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I know I posted this original question, but I found out there is no reason at all to do this job without slipping the upper tubes out of the tree. Do only one at a time. It will be much easier to drive the seals in when you can turn the legs upside down. To make less of an oily mess, loosen the top pinch bolt. Unscrew top cap. Loosen 2 lower pinch bolts and slide out. Hang onto both tubes so the lower leg doesn't compress and pour the oil out into whatever container you are using. Slip a knife between the dust seal and the upper tube and dislodge that seal. Now with a small screw driver, get the keeper wire out. Slip the leg back into the tree...tighten the lower bolts, unscrew the top cap from the inner rod. Now put your drain pan under the leg and give a couple of downward pulls on the lower leg to pop the oil seal out. Believe me, you will have less mess doing it this way. It's one of those don't ask "things". 
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 States I Have Ridden In
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Dag
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I have a love affair with a bumblebee
Country Rep. Norway
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« Reply #22 on: September 12, 2009, 02:52:14 PM » |
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I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool. I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.
Yes please.... post@valkyrienorway.com
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The question is not what you look at...but what you see...
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John U.
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« Reply #23 on: September 12, 2009, 07:11:18 PM » |
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I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool. I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.
Me too please: betesme(no spam)@mchsi.com Thanks
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BudMan
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"Two's in."
Tecumseh OK
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« Reply #24 on: September 12, 2009, 08:19:28 PM » |
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Buddy Tecumseh OK MOOT# 263 VRCC # 30158 1948 EL Harley 2013 F6B Delux "I rarely end up where I was intending to go, but often I end up somewhere that I needed to be," Dirk Gently; Holistic Detective
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Darren
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« Reply #25 on: September 13, 2009, 05:08:56 AM » |
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F6Dave, Please send me a copy also. darrenanna@gmail.comThanks, Darren
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HayHauler
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« Reply #26 on: September 13, 2009, 05:50:52 AM » |
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I would like a copy of that PDF also please. k5jtj at hotmail dot com Thanks! Hay  Jimmyt
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roboto65
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« Reply #27 on: September 13, 2009, 05:55:44 AM » |
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If I could trouble you out of a copy of the PDF to brit4a at yahoo.com Thanks!!!
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Allen Rugg VRCC #30806 1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate 1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project 
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old grouch
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Posts: 387
If it aint broke, don't fix it!
Colorado Springs, CO
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« Reply #28 on: September 13, 2009, 06:05:32 AM » |
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I would also love to have copy. stanpam431@msn.com Thanks, Stan
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 Don't float thru life, MAKE WAVES! 09/11/01 NEVER FORGET!
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John U.
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« Reply #29 on: September 13, 2009, 06:24:11 PM » |
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Neglected my Email Address: betesme@mchsidotcom Thanks
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humshark
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« Reply #31 on: September 14, 2009, 08:07:47 PM » |
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F6DaVE Please send to 1humshark@gmail.com I have parts arriving any day!
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99 Interstate 05 FJR 97 Vulcan '88' Hacked
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F6Dave
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« Reply #32 on: September 16, 2009, 06:43:24 AM » |
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I got a lot of requests to mail out the PDF where Chet describes the easy way to change fork seals. I know I missed a few people so I've posted a link to the file so everyone can get it. Here it is: http://f6dave.dchealy.com/fork-seal-change.pdf
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BudMan
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Posts: 625
"Two's in."
Tecumseh OK
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« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2009, 06:59:09 AM » |
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Perfect. Thank you so much!  (Now I can't misplace the document.)
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Buddy Tecumseh OK MOOT# 263 VRCC # 30158 1948 EL Harley 2013 F6B Delux "I rarely end up where I was intending to go, but often I end up somewhere that I needed to be," Dirk Gently; Holistic Detective
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Mike S.
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« Reply #34 on: May 21, 2013, 12:18:25 PM » |
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I got a lot of requests to mail out the PDF where Chet describes the easy way to change fork seals. I know I missed a few people so I've posted a link to the file so everyone can get it. Here it is: http://f6dave.dchealy.com/fork-seal-change.pdfI am guessing there is no way to get this pdf? The link no longer works - I know, late to the party!!!
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Semper Fi! Mike
There is no fair in fight, no cheat in win!
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #35 on: May 21, 2013, 01:52:39 PM » |
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Anything that popular should go on Shop Talk.
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greggh
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« Reply #37 on: May 21, 2013, 07:32:15 PM » |
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I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool. I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.
I will take a copy, please. I am changing my seals this Friday. Greggh@Cox.net Again please and thank you Greggh
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Mgbringo
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« Reply #39 on: May 22, 2013, 05:26:57 PM » |
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A copy for me too please. Mgbringo at msn.com
Thank you.
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