Maintnence questions...

[DrewDanube]

Ok,
One "normal scheduled" and one random but annoying....
1. Has anyone tried a oil extractor for an oil change?  I've got one from a previous vehicle that this worked very well on.  Just wondering...
2. I can't, for the life of me, find a how-to of how to change the REAR TIRE without removing the exhaust.  I know its possible as I've seen pictures (on Daniel Myer's site) but haven't seen a definitive writeup on this.
Now...for the WHY I have to change my rear tire... it went flat on the Troll, er Toll road today and BARELY made it to an exit and had it roll off the bead as I was exiting...almost dropped the bike but b/c of the MSF and experience was able to keep it upright and then parked safely in the "island".  2 hours later, (gotta love AAA...their system blows goats when dealing with emergency motorcycle pickup) the wrecker driver, my wife and I managed to get it on the center stand and I've not definitively found the cause of the lack of air in the tire.  Maybe something went in, then came out...I won't know till the tire is off the bike.  I MAY go darkside...it is very appealing to me mostly because my I/S is to be my sole means of transportation soon...meaning during monsoon season...I'm sure I will hear pro's and con's...heard them both already...

[Wanderer]

Glad to hear you rode it out in good shape, Drew. Check your valve stem. I would bet it failed. If that turns out to be the case and the tire is still usable, you could replace the valve stem w/o removing the wheel.

As for the pipes, just take the two fasteners loose on each pipe at the exhaust hangers - back side of where the pillion pegs or boards are secured. Gently pry the pipes away from the hanger with a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar and put a spacer thick enough (wine cork or wood) between the hanger and the pipe bracket so that the studs clear the swing arm and drive line. The next hold up will be the shocks. Disconnecting shocks at the top makes for a faster/easier reinstall.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes. I hope you are back on the road in time for Sunday's benefit ride.

Ebay the oil extractor. ~Jeff

[DrewDanube]

Thanks for the reply. 
I will check the Valve stem...that is actually a very sound hypothesis.  Sadly, the tire is pretty shot from the death slither that I had to deal with.  The center of the tire is flat but not evenly so...
The followup question, after re-reading some things on the internet, is should I buy o-rings and Moly paste and go ahead and service the final drive while I've got the wheel off?
Drew

[Flyboy]

That is always a god idea. I have a stack of thoes orings, as do several other people. Where do you live? Maybe I or someone else can get them to you.

[DrewDanube]

I'm in a large subburb of Houston known as Cy-Fair.  Will your average car-parts store have Moly paste or is this going to be something more motorcycle specific?
Drew

[Wanderer]

snip... should I buy o-rings and Moly paste and go ahead and service the final drive while I've got the wheel off?
Drew

Yes, Sir. A spare thrust washer is a good back up piece to have in inventory too, just in case. A GREAT upgrade over the stock Honda part is a bolt on valve stem like the ones available from Patchboy, Inc.
http://patchboy.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=17-562&Category_Code=6-3
What else, Dan'l? ~Jeff

[DrewDanube]

Would someone local have said bolt-on valve-stem?
Thrust washer?  Is that part of the final drive or another washer for elsewhere?
Drew

[cutter]

I have an I/S and don't even mess with the exhaust. I have Cobra 6x6 and not a problem. I use a lift, remove bags, shocks. lower the bike to remove the axel above the pipes then lift back up high enough so the tire will clear bottom of rear fender. Use high temp bearing grease (carmel color) from auto parts. I get my tires from Global Motor Sports on Kuykendahl north of FM1960. Ed and Willie are good people. If it isn't dealer only, thats where I go. I have used Honda of Houston there at West Rd/290 and been treated well to. I'm in the further outposts of the greater Houston area, Magnolia.
Glad ya kept her upright.

[Wanderer]

snipp...
Thrust washer?  Is that part of the final drive or another washer for elsewhere?
Drew

You will not likely need the thrust washer. Take it all apart now since she is unridable anyway to see just what you do need. The thrust washer is under the drive flange and mates w/ the right rear wheel bearing face. I have only seen one ever that was ruined.

Maybe someone local to you will walk you thru it the first time? ~Jeff

[DrewDanube]

I have an I/S and don't even mess with the exhaust. I have Cobra 6x6 and not a problem. I use a lift, remove bags, shocks. lower the bike to remove the axel above the pipes then lift back up high enough so the tire will clear bottom of rear fender. Use high temp bearing grease (carmel color) from auto parts. I get my tires from Global Motor Sports on Kuykendahl north of FM1960. Ed and Willie are good people. If it isn't dealer only, thats where I go. I have used Honda of Houston there at West Rd/290 and been treated well to. I'm in the further outposts of the greater Houston area, Magnolia.
Glad ya kept her upright.

I've got no lift and am relying on the center stand to get me through this...I may wait a day and get some help from my dad (and his jack and mechanical experience).  So frustrating that i have to do the hokey-pokey to remove the rear wheel. I fully realize the need to remove the side bags, but from there, there is alot of detail...
Drew

[cutter]

With just the center stand you'll need to remove the lower section of the rear fender. Your welcome to use my lift. I am off on friday, but I do have a few thing I need to take care of. If you want to use it, I'll try and hook up with ya.

Bill

[DrewDanube]

Already got it off, though it is kinda still attached.  The wiring into that part of the fender on I/S model doesn't come off; there is no plug for what I think is related to the CB that I don't have.  I cut two zip ties and have the piece sitting off to the side supported by a box. 
The 27mm wrench was not in my tool kit and that is a little larger than I have.  I'm hoping my father has one.  Its a process but its going smoother than I thought; between here, the internet and the Honda user manual its been ok.  I'm sure a Clymer or Haynes would make a huge difference.
Drew

[Daniel Meyer]

On the center stand...remove the bags (you do not have to remove the pans), remove the rear fender segment. Remove the shocks. I use a ratchet strap over the frame with the seat off to hold the rear end up.

Ratchet the rear end up till the axle clears your pipes and pans.

You do not need to pull the pipes.

Moly paste is hard to find and expensive. If you don't find any, just use a good quality waterproof general purpose grease. Replace the o-rings (3 of them). Check, clean, and lube the thrust washer (teflon thingy under the star on the wheel).

O-rings

Lots of good maintenance stuff here

There used to be an article on rear tire changes...I don't see it now (maybe just missing it). Guess I need to write one.

[DrewDanube]

I guess I need to locate the joists in the ceiling so I can get some hooks installed to lift the bike up a bit higher. 
I put penetrating lube on the 27mm nut b/c it was not budging.  I know my upper body weighs more than 81lbs so it probably has some rust in the axle and/or was overtightened.  Will have to add a longer cheater next.  (unless the bolt is backwards from normal righty-tighty, lefty-loosey but I would think the rear tire write up would mention that).
Drew

[Wanderer]

snip...
The 27mm wrench
Drew

Are we talking rear axle nut size? Got a SAE 1 and 1/16th inch - wrench or socket? I like a six sided socket myself.

(Lets see if we can break the record for the longest thread to date.) ~Jeff

[DrewDanube]

Axle nut is 27mm, says the writeup's I've read.  All I've got in that size is a crescent wrench.  gotta wait till tomorrow at this point. 
Drew

[cutter]

That's what I used in the begining. You'll need an allen wrench for the axel to help tight'n up the nut.

[DrewDanube]

I think I have 3 or 4 sets of metric allen wrenches running around so no worries there.   They are like tribbles, I swear. 

[Dag]

I can't, for the life of me, find a how-to of how to change the REAR TIRE without removing the exhaust.  I know its possible as I've seen pictures (on Daniel Myer's site) but haven't seen a definitive writeup on this.

I have some pictures of rear tire change: http://www.valkyrienorway.com/cpg1412/thumbnails.php?album=11

[DrewDanube]

Those exhaust pipes seem to way far out of the way compared to those on my I/S.  I took the shocks off the top bolts, the flat tire is flat on the ground and I barely have clearance for the axle to come out (once I break loose the axle nut...)
Thanks though...the more I see it, the easier it is to visualize it happening on my bike!
Drew

[Wanderer]

Those exhaust pipes seem to way far out of the way compared to those on my I/S.  I took the shocks off the top bolts, the flat tire is flat on the ground and I barely have clearance for the axle to come out (once I break loose the axle nut...)
Thanks though...the more I see it, the easier it is to visualize it happening on my bike!
Drew

Barely counts! How 'bout putting the center stand on a 2x6 or even just 3/4 ply before going up with her? Might need some help hoisting her at that more extreme angle.

With the shocks out of the way you can bear hug the wheel with your chest on the rear fender and get enough height to have a helper put the flat tire on at least 8 and 1/2 inches of lumber - two 4x4s and a 2x4 (or any variation there of). I know that will get the swing arm high enough to loosen and remove the 14mm caliper bolt. More than one way to skin a Valk! ~Jeff

[DrewDanube]

it took me and the wrecker driver much strain and torment just to get it on the center stand at all with the tire completely flat.  My dad is bringing 2 jacks...should be able to get the tire up high enough, then the bike up high enough.  Then to find a bolt-on valve stem and watch discount tire look at me funny...oh...and to find moly paste and the O-rings. Busy morning tomorrow...

[Curtis_2Valks]

snip...
The 27mm wrench
Drew

Are we talking rear axle nut size? Got a SAE 1 and 1/16th inch - wrench or socket? I like a six sided socket myself.

(Lets see if we can break the record for the longest thread to date.) ~Jeff

Yep, the 1 1/6" at 1.625" actually fits better than the slightly larger 27mm at 1.06299".

Curtis

[DrewDanube]

Good to know...maybe more places will have one.  I've called around on the 27mm...very little joy, especially under 20 bucks.  Gonna hit up harbor freight in the morning.

[cutter]

I get my lg sockets from sears hdwr. When I pulled the motor out to replace the rear cover I had to go to sear to get the much larger sockets to remove the clutch basket and other items. I even had to cut them in half, add a 2" glv nipple and weld em up for a deepwell socket. They are not cheap either. Keep on asking your q's and we'll all be glad to answer them.

Bill

[DrewDanube]

i've been trying to locate the o-rings with no luck.  Lundsdords has 2 of the 3 (the hidden one is the one they don't have).  My question is how critical it is to replace these EVERY tire change?  Can I just walk in and pick these up at an auto parts store or somewhere because I have the dimensions?
Drew

[Daniel Meyer]

Yes, with the dimensions you can get them anywhere that carries them.

I bought packages of 50 or 100's here: http://allorings.com/

Seems to me they work out to 4 or 5 cents a piece that way.

You can skip replacing them if they are perfect...no flats, no pinches, no cuts, and no stretch...

I change them every time I remove the wheel because they are cheap and it's easier than inspecting them.

[DrewDanube]

I'll do that for next time...for now...car parts store?  Some other store that I don't know about that would have o-rings in all sizes?
Drew

[godfire]

Last time I needed O-rings Rockwall Honda had them and Molly grease in stock.
You might check some of your local Honda shops.

[cutter]

You can check Lowes, Home depot, they show a danko kit of o-rings. Moss Seal over on Rankin Circle North. They are on the east side of 45 and north side of Rankin rd.

Bill

[cutter]

As for dealers other than Lundsford, you have Honda of Houston at West rd/290, Wild West Honda I-10 W near Katy, where my valk came from or in Conroe there is one - Cycle Shack North on old 75 about a mile north of 336 S.

[DrewDanube]

Awesome info. 
next question.  Where should I take the wheel and just bought Goodyear tire that is darkside friendly here in preferably the northwest Houston area?  I'm going to call cycle gear but am not holding my breath...they are probably as tight with their machines as discount tire is...
Drew

[DrewDanube]

I'm replying to myself...hah!
Honda of Houston will do it, Saturday morning only, begrudgingly.
Gonna see if I can get a more enthusiastic Friday spot...

[R J]

Yes, with the dimensions you can get them anywhere that carries them.

I bought packages of 50 or 100's here: http://allorings.com/

 .

Hey Daniel, I heard allorings sold out to some other scrooge and those packs of 50 are priced out of site.

[Daniel Meyer]

Hey Daniel, I heard allorings sold out to some other scrooge and those packs of 50 are priced out of site.

Dunno...the prices are online at the site...still look pretty reasonable to me....

[Wanderer]

snip...
The 27mm wrench
Drew

Are we talking rear axle nut size? Got a SAE 1 and 1/16th inch - wrench or socket? I like a six sided socket myself.

(Lets see if we can break the record for the longest thread to date.) ~Jeff

Yep, the 1 1/6" at 1.625" actually fits better than the slightly larger 27mm at 1.06299".

Curtis

Yes, Sir. Good to see you chiming in, Curtis! Going on Stan's ride to Meer's Store Saturday, May 3rd?

A new favorite of mine this week specific to the Interstate - The fairing gets in the way of using a 24mm socket on the fork tube caps so I got a wrench. Sears did not have a six sided 24mm so I opt'd for their six sided 15/16th.  ~Jeff

[R J]

Hey Daniel, I heard allorings sold out to some other scrooge and those packs of 50 are priced out of site.

Dunno...the prices are online at the site...still look pretty reasonable to me....

I forgot what the #'s were I ordered way back when, but when I went after the hidden one due to the size I didn't think was big enough they quoted em a price of like $35 or 40.00 for a pack of 50.

Seems like the original order of the 2 main ones I got em for like $.19 each on a pack of 50.

Post the part #'s here if ya would Brother..........  Thanks Daniel.

[DrewDanube]

You can check Lowes, Home depot, they show a danko kit of o-rings. Moss Seal over on Rankin Circle North. They are on the east side of 45 and north side of Rankin rd.

Bill

I went by Moss Seal...didn't feel like a retail operation...I will call them at some point.  Autozone and Napa were worthless trips.  I'll check Pep Boys and lowes while I am over that way picking up my darkside tire and dropping off used oil (gonna do the oil change I was planning on doing while the bike is on the centerstand unless that is a bad thing?)
Thanks all!
Drew

[godfire]

Good Luck Drew. I really don't have anything to add, just trying to get this thread to page 4

[DrewDanube]

O-rings are no where to be found in Houston.  I'm gonna get the bike back together and see how the darkside feels.  I'll give it a 1000 miles then repeat the removal process both for practice and to service the o-rings.
Drew