RogerD
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« Reply #80 on: January 07, 2011, 09:45:06 AM » |
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I think I asked the question wrong. I should have asked is, assuming all else is good, can an out of synch condition cause #3 not to contribute at idle? I am doubting the accuracy of my synch.
If I can assume that my problem with #1 no way effected #3, then I think I have completed a couple of the steps you suggest. Is that a correct assumption? I don't think the vacuum port is plugged because I can hear it hissing when removing the vacuum cap and connecting the gauge. The spark plug is new and has spark too and through it as I mentioned earlier.
Thanks, Roger
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2001 Valkyrie Std
It is a law of Nature and all we can do is observe it.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #81 on: January 07, 2011, 11:58:20 AM » |
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If you recall I always thought one problem you were having was synchronization based, and:
That number #3 carburetor out of synchronization can do exactly as you describe.
Recall that the #3 carburetor is the base carburetor used to synchronize all the other five carburetors.
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« Last Edit: January 07, 2011, 12:00:00 PM by Ricky-D »
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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RogerD
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« Reply #82 on: January 07, 2011, 03:15:44 PM » |
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I just rode for about 60 miles. It sure feels good to have the power in my fist that I am use too.
You are correct. You thought it was a synch problem before I ever decided to remove the carb bank the first time. As I was thinking through an after the fact analysis, I had that call as number 1 on the analysis list.
So how do you synch #3? Is it the other five that are out of synch?
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2001 Valkyrie Std
It is a law of Nature and all we can do is observe it.
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9Ball
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« Reply #83 on: January 07, 2011, 03:38:30 PM » |
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#3 is your base carb...no adjustment. You synch the other 5 to #3 (and each other)
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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John U.
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« Reply #84 on: January 07, 2011, 09:08:48 PM » |
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Glad to hear you found the major problem Roger. I definately pays to be methodical and check your work, when you are tired or your back hurts pack it in for the day. About #3, how long did the bike sit with gas in the carbs while you worked on figuring things out? Ethanol doesn't take very long to gum things up if you have no stabilzer in the fuel. It may very well be a new clog. I use Marine Stabil in every tank, it's good stuff but not cheap. If you ride the bike every couple of days it isn't necesary but who knows when the weather or some other situation will prevent that from happening, even in Florida 
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RogerD
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« Reply #85 on: January 08, 2011, 07:58:18 AM » |
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jrhorton, Thanks for the reply. I don't think my homemade synch guage is getting the job done. After seeing your post yesterday evening I attempted another synch. When I finished last night all carbs, according to my vacuum gauge, were at approx. 9 in/hg, but #3 is still not contributing at idle. John U., I'm glad too. Thanks for your interest. I usually am a pretty methodical person. That is why I could have lost a bet on making that foolish mistake.  The bike never sat over three days without being started during this process. Plus, I took RickyD's advise and have non-ethanol gas in the scotter now and in the previous tank. I found it at a local marina. Looking back on my initial problem and after seeing the condition of the slow jets when I first removed the carbs, I don't think that clogged jets were the problem to start with. I am thinking now that I could have had someone with adequate gauges synch the carbs, as Ricky suggested, and my problem would have been solved.  I am coordinating with Thunderbolt to have the carbs synched. I still have the problem with #3 not contributing at idle.Looks like it may happen tomorrow. 
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2001 Valkyrie Std
It is a law of Nature and all we can do is observe it.
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9Ball
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« Reply #86 on: January 08, 2011, 10:15:28 AM » |
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maybe a dumb idea, but have you checked that #3 vacuum connection is not plugged by something? Does your line from the homemade gauge have a check valve that might be installed backwards?
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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RogerD
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« Reply #87 on: January 08, 2011, 06:03:19 PM » |
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Thanks to Thunderbolt for bringing his synch guage by my home and teaching me how to use the Twin Max. You talking about a nice looking Interstate, he has one.
Only one of the cylinders that I had tried to synch was correct. The other four needed adjustment. I think I am giving up on AC manifold gauge. However, #3 is still not contributing. Thunderbolt rode my scooter after the synch and it was evident to him that it was off at low speeds. I rode after he left and, on a lonley road, I would set my throttle lock to approximately 3K rpm's in a lower gear and pull the plug wire from #3 plug and I did not hear any change in rpm. When I did the same with #5 there was a definate change in rpm, as I suspect it would on the other four.
jrhorton, I can hear #3 vacuum hissing when I remove the vacuum plugs. It has to be pretty loud for me to hear it. No valves in the vacuum hose I am connecting the gauge with. There is a valve in the manifold set that can be closed slowly to reduce (dampen) needle swing.
I don't know much about the idle screw. Could it in any way have anything to do with #3 being lazy at idle and staying that way too over 3K rpm? The idle screws are set to 2 1/4 turns. I'm grasping at straws here. But having to take it back apart is really not that much effort. Learning by repitition.
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2001 Valkyrie Std
It is a law of Nature and all we can do is observe it.
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John U.
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« Reply #88 on: January 08, 2011, 08:19:22 PM » |
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I have to compliment you Roger, you really know how to hang in there. Regarding #3, I suggest (if you haven't already done this) opening the #3 carb float bowl drain screw to be sure you are getting fuel to that carb. You could have a stuck float valve; no gas no go. If the cylinder isn't firing at all then it has to be fuel or spark. You can pull that plug and ground it to see if it's firing. Pull the plug before you start the bike, and get the plug as far from the plug hole as you can, you don't want to get singed if the mixture blowing out the plug hole ignites. Let us know how it goes and good luck.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #89 on: January 10, 2011, 01:43:06 PM » |
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Roger, It's entirely possible that the motor can run fairly well along with idling, with the #3 carburetor not helping much if at all!
Since the #3 carburetor is the baseline carburetor for adjusting all the other five carburetors, and trying to understand your circumstances, and how it can be this way it is important to understand the mechanical connection between the carburetors and what moves what.
All the carburetors have and idle speed adjustment screw. Five carburetors have their idle screw adjuster on the idle bar that connects the carburetors to each other. This would be all the carburetors except the #3 carburetor which has the idle speed adjuster as the thumb screw which you turn with your fingers and protrudes down between the #1 and #3 carburetor in towards the center of the motor.
Chances are that the idle screw adjuster (the thumb screw) for #3 carburetor is adjusted very low and as a result you have turned up the idle on the other five carburetors to compensate for the lack of #3 carburetor not helping the effort.
This is why the manual states that it is important to keep the idle speed constant when synchronizing the carburetors and the manual emphasizes this by suggesting using a good (other than the bike) tachometer for this operation.
As you adjust a carburetor and the idle speed increases you should necessarily turn the idle screw (thumb screw) to compensate for the change in rpm making it back to the original rpm. This then will affect all the readings (vacuum) whereas readjustment will again be necessary.
The only thing I can suggest here is that a good spray of lubricant on all of the linkage will be very helpful in making sure the adjustments you make are true and not sticking a bit, and the adjustments you make should be in very small increments. The closer you get to the final settings, will mean, very small changes will be getting even smaller.
I tell you that the biggest pain in the ass is turning the thumb screw that changes the idle setting for the #3 carburetor. Having to continually make that adjustment and remembering which way you were turning an idle screw on another carburetor is frustrating to say the least.
One other point I want to emphasize is that the #4 carburetor idle speed screw will affect the idle setting on the #2 and #6 carburetors since they are all ganged together, just as the #1 and #5 carburetors are ganged together with the #3 carburetor in the same way. It is important to understand, this way they are connected, to help in synchronizing the carburetors. Of course the important point is to keep the idle constant while adjusting the carburetors. This is imperative!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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RogerD
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« Reply #90 on: January 10, 2011, 04:20:19 PM » |
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John U. Thanks for the compliment. When you are dumb enough to do it wrong the first time, you have no other choice but to do it over.
Ricky-D, Thanks for the explanation. Things are better understood now. I new from the three attempts I made with a single gauge that it is a real pain to keep the idle adjusted while trying to synch. I am thinking of getting a Twin Max like Thunderbolt has. It measures differential pressure and is verry simple to use. My second choice are gauges like you have. I know you already told someone where to get them but if you remember I won't have to try and find it again. I think you said ebay but I haven't had much luck there.
I am happy to say that my scooter now has all cylinders contributing. I pulled the carb bank again today and found #3 slow jet clogged. I tryed to blow it out but finally had to use a small piece of wire to get it open. I know you are not suppose to do that but the wire I used surely couldn't do much damage. Let me tell you one better than that. After I got the airbox back on and the filter cover screwed down, I turned and looked and saw the heat shield (I think someone refered to it as a black plastic thing). I removed the airbox again and installed it. It is a lot harder to get in after the carbs are fastened but it can be done. Most people probably wouldn't tell that on themselves but I thought you could add it to the bonehead list.
I would like to thank everone that has replied to this thread. It is true that if you need help with your Valkyrie that this forum is the place to get it.
Roger
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2001 Valkyrie Std
It is a law of Nature and all we can do is observe it.
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #91 on: January 10, 2011, 04:55:15 PM » |
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If anyone else has problems, please call Roger. 
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John U.
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« Reply #92 on: January 11, 2011, 07:03:13 PM » |
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Hey Roger, the thread is too long to reread, but it seems you've had recurring slow jet clogging problems. Have you checked your gas tank for rust. There have been other threads lately where this has been mentioned. You should take a look for rust. Cleaning the tank would be a good idea anyway. Another thought to prevent future problems is an inline fuel filter. Pingle and Golan make good ones. Doing these things and using a fuel stabilizer will go a long way toward spending more time riding and less wrenching. Lastly, don't leave your Valk by herslf too much, like any other girl, she likes attention 
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