Synthetic oil

[StLRider]

Just took devilery of my first Phat Lady. It's a 2000 Standard with 22,000 miles on the clock. I was wondering if it is too late to switch to synthetic oil, or just keep using the recomended oil from the factory. Your thoughts on this matter are priceless!
Keep riding safe! 

[bassin]

Well my two cents worth in some cases it can cause your clutch to slip because it is all lubed by the same oil. Friend of mine had that problem changed back to regular oil and has not had any problem.

[Hollywood]

we use  motorcycle oil purchased at Autozone. found that reccomended oil ( honda) breaks down too fast.

[Bladedog]

Many schools of thought on this one, still evaluating the result myself with my '97 Standard with 68K on the odo.  There's a lot of good info on this site, just keep reading.  I guess a lot of it will depend on your riding styles and your climate.

Congrats on the new Valk!

[DeathWishBikerDude]

I've used synthetic since new.
No clutch or other problems.
Runs like new with nearly 45,000 hard miles.
 

[Ken 11861]

I've been using the Mobil 1 15-50 since I got on this board in 2001 on my 01 Valk Standard, she's got 62,000 miles on her now. Extremly minute wear cosidering the rare necessity to adjust any valves when I'm in there for a valve adjustment.
Sometimes I had to adjust 3 or 4 valves only about .001, at some inspections no adjustment required at all. Now I only go in for a look/check on the valves aprox. every 20,000, gradually worked my way up from the recommended 12,000 mile inspection.

[Grandude]

22,000 mi. is fine to switch to synthetic. If you want to make it simple, use a 10w40 syn. made for motorcycles, like Amsoil. It is one of the best made and my first choice but it's expensive.

Otherwise use an automotive oil that doesn't have friction modifiers. A lot of Valk riders use Rotella 5w40 syn. but I don't because it seems to be thinner than a lot of other oils and my transmission and valves make more noise.

When I don't use Amsoil, I use Delvac 15w40 non-syn. diesel oil, known as "The Million Mile Oil". Delvac also makes a good 5w40 syn.

This link is a great site about MC oil. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

The attached pic shows how you can tell if an oil has friction modifiers that might make your clutch slip.

[Udo]

I use synthetic in all engines, no problem. But, for wet clutches (most bikes) never oil with friction modifiers.

[Disco]

Another site filled information is www.bobistheoilguy.com.

I switched from factory oil in my 2000 Standard to Royal Purple at about 8,000 miles.  I ran the first oil change interval to just over 7,500 miles and sent a sample to Blackstone Labs for a Used Oil Analysis.  Everything was fine and they recommended I run the next interval to 8,500 and send them another sample.

[Tropic traveler]

No worries on the synthetic switch.
I switched my Valk at 60,000 miles from 10w40 Honda GN-4 dino to the Rotella 5w40 full synthetic. That was 30,000 miles ago. No problems with the 5w part either & I ride in hot 'n sunny Florida.





91,000 miles now!

[franco6]

  here in texas its the heat I ve used mobil-1 15-50 in all my cars and bikes (exept the CB 750 A ,ofcourse) no problems. The ST-1100 has 67000 miles runs great, no slippage. the valk uses castrol r4-4t full synt 10-50  changed at 3500 mi . also always use premium gas. c ant be too careful! Enjoy. Fred.

[Ricky-D]

I use synthetic in all engines, no problem. But, for wet clutches (most bikes) never oil with friction modifiers.

Wrong there!!!   I use Shaffer 7000 Supreme 20W-50 which is a blended oil with moly .  Good oil - no problem!

[Master Blaster]

Go ahead and switch, no probs.  To make it simple get the Shell rotella full syn at WalleyWorld, and while you are there pick up a Super Tech filter.  The Rotella comes in a gallon size so you dont have to measure, just pour it in.  Ive been using this combo for the last 8 years, used to use the Mobile 1 but they kept reformulating it every couple of years, and I didnt need the drama.  I use it in everything I own, worked great in all 4 Valks I owned,  even the blown one, have been running it in my ZX14 for 3 years, and also in my Concours 14 since new.  If a clutch problem were to come about, it would be in the ZX14, its pushing 200 HP at the rear wheel, I run it hard, and clutch is good as new.  You could go with Amzoil, but it gets to be a bother having to stop and empty the gas tank so often.  Just ask anyone that uses/sells it, your bike will run so well that it will make its own gas.  Then there are the folks that thinks Honda refines its oil to a higher standard rather than putting out bids and going with the cheapest bidder to rebrand and jack up the price.  Lotsa good oils out there, and seriously most of it will probably work just fine.

[John U.]

I have to agree with Ricky-D, althought I don't use the same oil. Take a look at this chart of moly content: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/photo_04.html
In particular check out the moly content of HP-4 compared with Mobil synthetic 15-50 car oil. They both contain moly. I mix the Mobil15-50 and either Amsoil 10-40 motorcycle oil or their synthetic 15-40 diesel oil to reduce the moly content of the blend.
After I run out of that I'm thinking of using dino diesel oil to mix with the Mobil synthetic. It would be cheaper and the moly content would (I think) be low enough not to matter, since diesel truck oil doesn't contain moly. 

[alph]

One thing that really matters is at the end of the year you change your oil and filter.  You don’t want your engine to sit for four months with used oil in it.  Used oil will contain contaminants that will slowly eat away your gaskets and cause leaks.  Myself, I changed to Amsoil 20w-50 at 50k miles, it runs cooler, and looks just as fresh at the end of the year as it does when first installed.  It is expensive though, $11 per quart, but I want to have this bike for a very long time.

[Grey wolf oz]

Hey all I thought I would drop I line in here,

I am running synthetic, 10 w 40, 

But this is Melbourne Australia, days under 10 deg are few and far between

Point two,,

After the oil change, man. She’s smooth and quiet,  and gear changes are smooth too, for a bit, 

Yup, 4 quarts and a 303 C filter every time

And I normally get 4 quarts out so that’s a good thing too right,

I am curious about the. Oil weights for my ambient temperatures  and about the smooth running after a oil change

Any comments ?

Luke

[Gondul]

Hey all I thought I would drop I line in here,

I am running synthetic, 10 w 40,  

But this is Melbourne Australia, days under 10 deg are few and far between

Point two,,

After the oil change, man. She’s smooth and quiet,  and gear changes are smooth too, for a bit,  

Yup, 4 quarts and a 303 C filter every time

And I normally get 4 quarts out so that’s a good thing too right,

I am curious about the. Oil weights for my ambient temperatures  and about the smooth running after a oil change

Any comments ?

Luke

 
WAG,. smoother running is simply due to the oil being 'cleaner'... remember, the oil also operates the clutch.  But without a UOA (used oil analysis) there's really no telling the condition of the oil.

As far as viscosity, the 1st number is for cold weather temps... seems like 10w is fine for your temp range. The second number is for under normal operating temps and if it is hot where you are, then go with the recommended 40...

I think most of us get the Rotella T6 15w40 as it doesn't have any lettering in the bottom of the donut as it is made for diesel engines.

[h13man]

Used to use 5w40 Rotella synthetic until EPA changes in 2017. I use Mobil 1 for MC's now. Tried 10w40 Valvoline dino, it failed at 3,000 mi. 22,000 shouldn't be an issue. I changed mine when I 1st. got it with 11,300 mi.

[98valk]

Used to use 5w40 Rotella synthetic until EPA changes in 2017. I use Mobil 1 for MC's now. Tried 10w40 Valvoline dino, it failed at 3,000 mi. 22,000 shouldn't be an issue. I changed mine when I 1st. got it with 11,300 mi.

per my posts rotella is still excellent to use. some diesel oils are not.  JASO motorcycle oils are bad for our older scoots, since their latest specs follow epa 2017 regs for the catalytic convertors.

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,96825.0.html

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,65911.0.html

[mello dude]

I have to agree with Ricky-D, althought I don't use the same oil. Take a look at this chart of moly content: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/photo_04.html

Link doesnt work....Waay long ago, sportrider did a series of testing and I based my oil choice on that.
- This Calsi site is also way in the past, look at the per quart oil prices.
(Amsoil at $6 a quart, I'll take it)

Oh.. thread really old.... 

[Grey wolf oz]

Thanks guys,  still thinking on this one, 

[PSUbag]

I've always used the cheapest, non synthetic 10w-40 that Walmart has. 190,000+ miles and zero issues. Just my $.02.  

[Savago]

It is a Honda. As long it comes from a bottle that reads 'engine oil' and doesn't have 'resource conserving' in the rear side of the bottle it should be good.

I've used motorcycle oil, diesel engine oil, 10W30, 5W40, 15W40, mineral oil, synthetic oil and she runs just fine.

[LadyDraco]

I  have  been using T6 rotella  since  for  ever  almost 200K  on the  one   150K+ on the  other  and  of  course  all of HB's  valks..

[H*GLEG]

I've Used Valvoline Synthetic motor oil once without problems.  Now I just stick to OEM Honda GN4 10-40.  Make sure you change it before put her to rest for a few months.   All those "burnt ends" are acidic to say the least.  Glad to see another MO rider.  Just rode to Hannibal yesterday on 79.