Brake Pin Removal

[Biker Bill]

Okay...at the risk of sounding dumb...how is the brake pad pin removed?  I have removed the pad pin plug and can visualize the end of the pin.  It looks like an Allen wrench (hex head tool) will be needed.  I tried an SAE allen and a metric hex head.  Neither fit as snugly as I thought they should.  I tired to turn the pin with the wrench but it is very stubborn.
Am I doing this right?  Should I just put in the right sized wrench and twist until it gives? I've never changed these before, and these brakes have never been changed on this 2000 standard. Maybe the fact that the pins have not been turned in over 12 years is part of the problem.

[bikerboy1951]

 You need to use a metric allen head wrench.  Everything on the bike is metric with the exception of some accessories.

Brad

[9Ball]

Definitely spray some penetrant in there and let it sit for a bit....they tend to weld themselves in place after a long period.  Also, be sure to have the proper size hex wrench...you don't want to strip this out if at all possible otherwise you're in for some severe headaches.

[YoungPUP]

If you strip the end of the pin, you can get a pair of needle nose vice grips in between the pads to remove the pins.  Don't ask how I know this.... Use lots of anitsieze when replacing with a new pin. About 6 bucks at the local stealer...

[GotValk]

I had a rear caliper sticking, so I removed the caliper put in on the bench cleaned everything well and now she looks like brand new, I felt so good doing that I also serviced the front two, I will say I also needed new tires , so while waiting for the tires I also polished the wheels, My point is it's good to go through it once and awhile, so after 12yrs there may be a few other things you might want to do to your bike.

Have your fluids been changed?, Spline serviced? how many miles in 12yrs?
Just wondering because I've done 3 sets of brakes in my 12 yrs (51,000 miles).

Good Luck, and this is the right place for all the help you need.

[Jess from VA]

You really cannot do business with the bike without a set of these.  (you may need a torx or two)
 3/8" drive (but I wish I had 1/4" drive)


And sometimes in tight spots these are better.


Except for a few little jobs, and to carry in the bike tool kit....... these suck.


Though some swear by these.


If it hasn't been out in 12y, you better spray some penetrant in there and wait a while.  The top plug is there to prevent crud getting to the pin.  I think with the right tool, it will turn right out, but put antisieze on it before it goes back in (like about every bolt and screw you ever take off the bike).  And use grease on that pin when it goes back in, the pads move on it.

In a pinch, if you get good purchase with a traditional L-allen wrench, you can clamp a vice grip to the short end for better torque.

[RonW]

I forget already, but is this the 5mm allen wrench? If it is, there is such a thing as a 5.5mm allen that fits snug in 'enlarged' hex bolts. It's usually available only as part of a set of L-shaped allens. You may have it somewhere in the set of allens that you own.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

After you spray some type of oil on the  hex end of the pin try taking the allen wrench or socket head allen and with a small hammer  hit the allen into the end of the pin to warm it up alittle. Sometimes the jolt will help loosen the pin.

[CASABROKER]

Impact driver

[Chrisj CMA]

And always remove the cap and pin while the caliper is ON the bike.  you have a solid platform for resistance when you start to wrench on that thing.  Having it your hand and trying to break them things loose is no good

[Gryphon Rider]

If you end up stripping the socket in the pin:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,27923.0.html

[hubcapsc]

And always remove the cap and pin while the caliper is ON the bike.  you have a solid platform for resistance when you start to wrench on that thing.  Having it your hand and trying to break them things loose is no good

Hey Jeff... welcome back!

Here's me standing on my caliper...



-Mike

[hubcapsc]

If you end up stripping the socket in the pin:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,27923.0.html

Or, if you strip it, and are a clutz like me, Pinwall has more for around $25... The first time I took off
one of my calipers, I couldn't get the little cap off. I buggered up the caliper trying to drill it out...

-Mike "the only tools you really need are a hammer and a sawzall..."

[F6BANGER]

Dont forget about your all 16ths wrench/hammer all in one tool  

[HayHauler]

This rings a bell with me....  I had to drill out mine and replace it with a new bolt.  I actually drove a 6mm allen into it with a hammer and it still stripped.

It took a while, but it drilled out pretty easily. 
I tried the needle nose vise grips and it just spun on the little shaft.  It was in there really tight.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[YoungPUP]

Not that this is recommended by the Vice grips company, but when I had problems with mine I ended up using a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze The vice grip handles to get them to bite tight enough...

[RonW]

Here's me standing on my caliper...

I personally prefer Chrisj's method better but the soles of your shoes are just as good as any non-marring vice jaws on the market, lol. Anyways, was it difficult to get air bubbles out of the hydraulic line when you reinstalled the rear brake caliper? I'd like to remove my rear caliper to clean the pistons better when I install new pads. I was just wary that I'll be there 2 hours bleeding the hydraulic line.

[hubcapsc]

 Anyways, was it difficult to get air bubbles out of the hydraulic line when you reinstalled the rear brake caliper? I'd like to remove my rear caliper to clean the pistons better when I install new pads. I was just wary that I'll be there 2 hours bleeding the hydraulic line.

It's a problem, but there's several easy solutions.

I put fluid in the reservoir and hook a syringe to the caliper bleeder
with a little one-inch "adapter" made from vacuum line and get the fluid started
by sucking it down out of the  reservoir... after it starts going a little, then it starts
working like you'd want just by pumping the lever... there's probably some really
easy mighty-vac way to do it too.

Taking the caliper apart and cleaning everything and putting it back together
really makes the brakes work well. It's hard to get the pistons out
sometimes, I use compressed air. Someone posted a really cool sounding
less explosive solution... fill the caliper body with grease and use a
grease gun fitting that fits to the caliper (they're supposed to be
easy to get) and pump the pistons out with the grease gun...

Seems like you have a mess to clean up, though... ? Maybe they
had the caliper filled with brake fluid, and just pumped in enough
grease to push the pistons out...

-Mike

[sugerbear]

You really cannot do business with the bike without a set of these.  (you may need a torx or two)
 3/8" drive (but I wish I had 1/4" drive)


And sometimes in tight spots these are better.


Except for a few little jobs, and to carry in the bike tool kit....... these suck.


Though some swear by these.


If it hasn't been out in 12y, you better spray some penetrant in there and wait a while.  The top plug is there to prevent crud getting to the pin.  I think with the right tool, it will turn right out, but put antisieze on it before it goes back in (like about every bolt and screw you ever take off the bike).  And use grease on that pin when it goes back in, the pads move on it.

In a pinch, if you get good purchase with a traditional L-allen wrench, you can clamp a vice grip to the short end for better torque.

 

[GotValk]

I just serviced my calipers,(the rear had froozen only got 6000 miles out of the pads) anywhy the easiest way I found to remove the pistons was too use the bikes hydrulic system I just add brake fluid and pumped the brake pedal until they came out, I had to add fluid twice I didn't want to clean grease out of there, Now the front were not froze so I just used compressed air (take it slow and block the piston with a wooden paint stick). was really no big deal to service just be careful not to score the pistons when cleaning ( be sure they are nick/pit free before sliding them back into the caliper not to score the seals). I did buy new caliper seals for the rear but didn't need them.
Good Luck!

[RonW]

thanks, hubcapsc, but on that note, I think I'll pass on removing the calipers and hydraulic line completely from the bike. Any yea, I know, have to be extra careful not to stress where the hydraulic line connects to the caliper body. Not to hard to do when you're angling the caliper this way and that way. And holding the unit on your tigh.

[Jess from VA]

Thanks for the thumbs up Sugerbear..... every so often it is nice to work on a (hopefully) helpful post rather than work on our sarcasm and insults.   

[Skinhead]

I just helped Romeo remove his rear caliper pin that he said was stuck (after mounting both front and rear tires).  What I did was
1 apply PB Blaster
2 use punch, rod or bolt that will fit inside the pin hole and smack the sh!t out of it a couple time with a hand sledge.
3 apply vise grips to the pin between the pads
4 use allen socket and vice grips together to apply torque.

It was off like a prom dress!

[Chrisj CMA]

I just helped Romeo remove his rear caliper pin that he said was stuck (after mounting both front and rear tires).  What I did was
1 apply PB Blaster
2 use punch, rod or bolt that will fit inside the pin hole and smack the sh!t out of it a couple time with a hand sledge.
3 apply vise grips to the pin between the pads
4 use allen socket and vice grips together to apply torque.

It was off like a prom dress!

I hope you put a new pin in and not the one with vice grip teeth marks on it because those marks will interfere with the pads and could cause binding and pre mature wear

[Skinhead]

I just helped Romeo remove his rear caliper pin that he said was stuck (after mounting both front and rear tires).  What I did was
1 apply PB Blaster
2 use punch, rod or bolt that will fit inside the pin hole and smack the sh!t out of it a couple time with a hand sledge.
3 apply vise grips to the pin between the pads
4 use allen socket and vice grips together to apply torque.

It was off like a prom dress!

I hope you put a new pin in and not the one with vice grip teeth marks on it because those marks will interfere with the pads and could cause binding and pre mature wear

Not my bike, Romeo's call, but there were absolutely no marks left on the pin from the vice grips.  It surprised me too, but that was the first thing I checked.  He will definately add a little anti sieze if he can get the cap off the bottle.

[hubcapsc]

He will definately add a little anti sieze if he can get the cap off the bottle.