Clutch??

[grandpaweaver]

This is driving me crazy, every bike owner in town is riding and mines sitten in the garage. I have a 00 Tourer just under 40K miles that I bought last fall.

Comming home the other day when I gave it the gas I got RPM but hardly moves. I limped home the last 1/4 mile, seems to shift to all gears the lever feels as it always has since I bought it figured right away its the clutch slipping. I read on here to change the oil which I did yesterday, it was pretty dirty, took it around the block with the same results.

My question is what do I do next want to do cheap and easy first B4 tearing into the clutch.

Also how long is the dip stick. Mine dosent look stock and after putting in just under 4 qts new oil I don't get a reading on the stick.

Thanks for any help, I want to ride.

[BonS]

It may be more likely to be your rear end than the clutch. If you haven't had the rear tire off and hand the final drive inspected I'd start there. As far as the oil, the OEM dipstick is black plastic. Bed sure to check the oil with the bike standing straight up - not leaning on it's side stand. After 4 quarts you should then see the true oil level.

[Valkpilot]

This is driving me crazy, every bike owner in town is riding and mines sitten in the garage. I have a 00 Tourer just under 40K miles that I bought last fall.

Comming home the other day when I gave it the gas I got RPM but hardly moves. I limped home the last 1/4 mile, seems to shift to all gears the lever feels as it always has since I bought it figured right away its the clutch slipping. I read on here to change the oil which I did yesterday, it was pretty dirty, took it around the block with the same results.

My question is what do I do next want to do cheap and easy first B4 tearing into the clutch.

Also how long is the dip stick. Mine dosent look stock and after putting in just under 4 qts new oil I don't get a reading on the stick.

Thanks for any help, I want to ride.

BonS makes a good point -- it might not be the clutch.

If you want to pursue the clutch issue, first, make sure that you're not using oil with friction modifiers.  You can tell this by looking at the back of the bottle for the "API Donut" that looks like a circle within a circle.  The bottom half should not have anything wrtten in it.  If it's blank, you're OK.

This thread has a good discussion of the simple and easy (and less expensive) things to try before tearing into the clutch: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,36778.0.html

[grandpaweaver]

Oil I used was Rotella T6 Sinthetic 5-40. The PO said he inspected and lubed the rear B4 I bought. Maybe I should inspect

[Ricky-D]

If you have any kind of "slipping" originating from the "rear end" (pumpkin) you should surely have some kind of gnashing or grinding noise because the connections are splines which would produce a lot of noise were they to malfunction.

Same with the u-joint.

***

[Blackduck]

How far do you have to pull the clutch lever in to disengage drive?
Could be a sticky master cylinder piston not bleeding back clutch fluid properly.
Have you changed the fluid since owning the bike?
Cheers Steve

[Patrick]

When and how does the clutch seem to slip ??  When does it seem to engage ?? It may be worth it to change the fluid and take a good look at the lever bushing.. Any wear in the bushing will eliminate what little free-play there should be between the lever and push-rod.. Its easier to start looking at the easy stuff..

[grandpaweaver]

The lever disengaged drive about 3/4 of an inch pull, been that way since I bought it. Same for finding friction about all the way out but last 3/4 inch or so.

Now when I get to friction I get RPMs but no power to rear just putts along low MPH. If I give it gas I get slippage and need to back off the gas.

Got it home but bearly.

[grandpaweaver]

The PO wrote me this about the rear end;

Wheel bearings were inspected at last tire change and found to be good; final drive splines were given a coating on moly disulfide paste (per Honda's service manual instructions) and the final-drive cushion inserts were replaced with a set of long-wearing units made by a friend of mine. The same was done with the shock bushings.

[Valkpilot]

The PO wrote me this about the rear end;

Wheel bearings were inspected at last tire change and found to be good; final drive splines were given a coating on moly disulfide paste (per Honda's service manual instructions) and the final-drive cushion inserts were replaced with a set of long-wearing units made by a friend of mine. The same was done with the shock bushings.

I tend to agree with Ricky-D that if it were in the rear drive train, it would be accompanied by some noise, or at least some vibration.  That said, your PO didn't mention service to the pinion cup/drive shaft interface, which is often more neglected and than the rear drive splines themselves, and as a result is often a point of failure.

[F6BANGER]

The PO wrote me this about the rear end;

Wheel bearings were inspected at last tire change and found to be good; final drive splines were given a coating on moly disulfide paste (per Honda's service manual instructions) and the final-drive cushion inserts were replaced with a set of long-wearing units made by a friend of mine. The same was done with the shock bushings.

I tend to agree with Ricky-D that if it were in the rear drive train, it would be accompanied by some noise, or at least some vibration.  That said, your PO didn't mention service to the pinion cup/drive shaft interface, which is often more neglected and than the rear drive splines themselves, and as a result is often a point of failure.

I agree, it has splines. If they were stripped, it would do it at all rpms.

[sutterhome]

sound like the clutch,you could go old school on it and try to move while in gear.Engine off and high gear ,if things are turning somewhat easily i would think some part of drive train.should hear some clanking.Might lead you in the right direction.

[pistolchamp]

I guess I've been lucky, with over 94,000 miles and at least 1/2 of them pulling a trailer my clutch works like it did when new.  These things have a reputation for a near bulletproof clutch and I guess mine is proving it.

[BonS]

There is a very tiny pressure relief port in the master cylinder. If the port is plugged then the clutch will not fully engage and slip. It's a stretch but usually a worn out clutch will first slip in high gear under load and then work it's way to lower gears. And it is not a really sudden event.

[grandpaweaver]

Ok I put it in 5th gear, motor off clutch out and I could hardly move it forward. With all my weight I could move a couple feet didn't hear any grinding. I'll try the relief port next if I can find it

[Blackduck]

The relief port is a hole in the bottom of the master cylinder.
The piston needs to come back far enough to uncover this port and relieve the last of the pressure in the clutch hose/line.
With the master cylinder cover off you maybe able to see fluid movement when to pull then release the lever, be careful not to spill fluid on paintwork.If you do wash it off quick.
If there is any doubt about the quality of the fluid change it.
Check there is clearance between the lever and the piston, if not you can remove the lever and grind a little bit off the pin that is between them.
CHeers Steve

[grandpaweaver]

There is a very tiny pressure relief port in the master cylinder. If the port is plugged then the clutch will not fully engage and slip. It's a stretch but usually a worn out clutch will first slip in high gear under load and then work it's way to lower gears. And it is not a really sudden event.

Where is this pressure relief port

[BonS]

There is a very tiny pressure relief port in the master cylinder. If the port is plugged then the clutch will not fully engage and slip. It's a stretch but usually a worn out clutch will first slip in high gear under load and then work it's way to lower gears. And it is not a really sudden event.

Where is this pressure relief port

Blackduck has it right, it's inside the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder cover and look at the bottom of the reservoir. there are two holes; a big one and a very, very small one. The small one is the pressure relief port. If your fluid is too dark to see through you'll have to sop it up with some paper towels or some such. Is your fluid clear or the color of syrup?

[3W-lonerider]

that pressure relief port will be hiding under a little metal tab..that tab will lift right out..it just sits in there..nothing holding it..

[grandpaweaver]

thanks I'll check it out in the morning too dark now

[Ricky-D]

I wouldn't be grinding on anything expecting it to be a fix.

That would just put you deeper in the hole!

***

[Blackduck]

Ahh! Ricky,
You are not too familair with late model clutch systems. There was a time you could adjust free play on clutches ( bikes,cars and trucks) now they are all like our Valks, a little wear and you have no free play. Dealers love it, sell you a new clutch when all that is required is a little free play.
With out an adjuster you need to gain some freeplay, grinding a little off the push rod in the master cylinder is one. The harder way is to remove some off the pushrod in the slave cylinder.
Cheers Steve

[Ricky-D]

Ahh! Ricky,
You are not too familair with late model clutch systems. There was a time you could adjust free play on clutches ( bikes,cars and trucks) now they are all like our Valks, a little wear and you have no free play. Dealers love it, sell you a new clutch when all that is required is a little free play.
With out an adjuster you need to gain some freeplay, grinding a little off the push rod in the master cylinder is one. The harder way is to remove some off the pushrod in the slave cylinder.
Cheers Steve

Sorry,,,, a hydraulic clutch needs no adjustment.

***

[Blackduck]

So hydraulic clutches do not wear like mechanical clutches?
They all wear. If a hydraulic system is designed and assemble correctly it will allow for some wear but if not right then you will need to add some free play.

[grandpaweaver]

Just got home from work and opened it up, the fluid was fairly clear but had some crud built up in corners and what not. the little hole looks clear. I'm replacing the fluid. do I try to clean out the relief port also checking the lever and piston they look ok.. Question which way does the little metal go back in? Seems the little tabs point up and it pushes in.