Bearings, U-Joint, Drive Shaft??

[slugro]

I have a 99 Interstate with 59000 miles. Today, I started feeling a noticeable vibration in the pegs at highway speeds.  If I would let off the throttle, the vibration would go away.  It got constantly worse and started making a loud ticking noise when accelerating. The vibration and noise would go away as soon as I would let off the throttle.  Within 30 miles is was doing this at all speeds above 30 mph. I live in eastern Kansas and Tim Wolfe at Motorcare in Lawrence has lubed the splines (14000 miles ago when changing the rear tire).  Any suggestions??  Wheel bearings sound like a possibility, but wouldn't they still feel bad when I am not accelerating.  I would sure appreciate any input you guys could give me. Thanks.. Slug

[custom1]

The clicking sound is probably the drive splines in the pinion cup slipping. Do a search for "pinion cup".

Here is a recent thread with pics to get you started. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,36763.0.html

Only way to know for sure is to take it apart.

[gordonv]

Sounds just like a fellow rider had happen to him. Just because your mech was doing your splines, doesn't mean he even looked at the u-joint. His u-joint went, he wasn't far from his dealer of choice, and limped there for the repair.

I would figure take the whole rear apart yourself (ask for some local help), and you look it over, and make sure all is well. Parts are currently available (u-joint), so you may not have long down time.

[Ricky-D]

It sounds more like the u-joint is going bad.

And with it making a sound, I'd say it is very close to just letting loose.

Stop before any possible damage occurs.

***

[Jess from VA]

Ditto, U-joint.  Been there, done that, got the Tshirt.

Was over in Nowhere WVa at the time, found a Honda dealer but no one knew how to do the job.  Finally talked them in to letting me do the job.  When I got the bill, I asked how much it would have been if I didn't do the work. 

You'll find this link useful (click on each pic)
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

[John Schmidt]

+1 on the u-joint, strong possibility. Also noticed you said the splines were lubed 14k miles ago at a tire change. Under normal conditions that's much too long to let it go without pulling it apart and relubing everything. You need to set your sights on an interval closer to 10k or less, depending on your riding habits and environment. Best scenario....learn to do it yourself. All it takes is some time and attention to detail....and less money. 

[0leman]

+1 on the U-Joint (also).
Lost my U-Joint on the way home from a 200+ mile ride.  Started about 30 miles out from home.  At first noise/vibration would stop when I left off gas, then got to be all the time.  I was very glad when I parked my Valk in the garage.  After pulling the U-Joint, was suprised that I made it home at all.  Not much left.   
Replacing the U-Joint is not much of a problem, it's putting the "new" boot on that will cause you to cuss a bit.

[longrider]

Jess and John are spot on.  Follow the rattlebars instructions to a T and you'll be good to go.  easiest m/c I've worked on.

warren

[gordonv]

 
Replacing the U-Joint is not much of a problem, it's putting the "new" boot on that will cause you to cuss a bit.

Consensis is the u-joint, so start there.

Do a search on the boot. I think it was mentioned that alcohol will lube the rubber, and make it easier to slip on, then dries nicely afterwards. Also mean other methods of getting it on, I think including dental flose (but I've been know to be wrong once in a while).

[hubcapsc]

 
Replacing the U-Joint is not much of a problem, it's putting the "new" boot on that will cause you to cuss a bit.

Consensis is the u-joint, so start there.

Do a search on the boot. I think it was mentioned that alcohol will lube the rubber, and make it easier to slip on, then dries nicely afterwards. Also mean other methods of getting it on, I think including dental flose (but I've been know to be wrong once in a while).

Lady Draco talks about rolling the new boot back on itself, installing the front end,
and then unrolling the boot into place on the swingarm... sounds like it would work to me...
 
-Mike

[Hoser]

Gotta go with the u joint, Tim knows the procedure for splines and pinion cup very well.  Hoser

[Jess from VA]

Don't get me started on the boot......... dat sumbich. 

Next time I'm going to borrow someone's 5yr old with tiny hands.  Hey, it works just like a condom Johnny.

[Windjammer]

also keep in mind, You are buying a U-joint that comes with the yokes already on. so the internal splines will be new. It is not like putting a U-joint on a car or truck. I thought I was only getting a u-Joint and figuring on the socket and hammer routine? At least that is what I received from HDL. I just installed mine about a month ago. Still on the lift as I had to also replace seals on forks. And with the help from Steve K. was able to git er done. Remember also that another jack like a floor jack helps as well. And when you get her back together don't forget to tighten the four bolts to the jackshaft LAST. tighten the rear wheel first then the four bolts. And like others has said it is a pain to get the boot back on. A little WD40 helps. Chet from rattlebars has a how to do the joint replacement. If you need any help you can E-mail me as well. Sounds worse than it is. My Honda stealer wanted $180 for the U-Joint HDL was around $65 I think. Of course if I had them put it on ? It would have been probably about 500 give or take.

[longrider]

I believe the stealer will remove the rear swingarm for u-joint install so 500 might be low

[Windjammer]

I believe the stealer will remove the rear swingarm for u-joint install so 500 might be low

You are probably correct. That is why it was not an option for me. When I am capable (with the help from this board) to do it myself.

[hubcapsc]

I believe the stealer will remove the rear swingarm for u-joint install so 500 might be low

You are probably correct. That is why it was not an option for me. When I am capable (with the help from this board) to do it myself.

I took my swingarm off once, it's easy. I believe if your swingarm is off, your u-joint
boot ain't installed. Putting on the boot isn't "hard" so much as awkward... as in "*&^*&^!!
if I could only reach up in there and pull that dang thing the rest of the way on there!!!!"

I only had to install a boot once, and I had a lot of other stuff off, including the
starter. With the starter off, you can reach up in there.

Unfortunately, (I think) removing and replacing the starter is harder than doing
the alternator.

-Mike "no free lunch"

[Valkpilot]

Screw the boot.  No, really.

My favorite technique to get the boot on the swingarm is to spray it with slicone spray lube, then screw it on.   There's a lip in the boot that fits in a groove on the swingarm.  Get it started on the bottom as this is the easiest to access.  Then hold your fingers against the area of the boot that's engaged and with your other hand rotate the boot, and it will almost pop itself in place.

[slugro]

Hi Everyone!   Thanks for the input. You guys are all great! I felt like it was the U-Joint when it first started.  I will take it apart in the next couple of days to find out for sure. I will let you know how much I cuss...  Thanks!

[rangernight]

I would check the bearings first, the last 2 failures on mine, 1st---had a small vibraions in the foot pegs, light sqeek noise, fine metal dust on the wheel, 2nd--small vibration in the pegs & bars---this led me to the left WB---just starting to go bad--good luck

[Willow]

Sounds like a U-joint to me.  It could also be the pinion gear, but when my pinion gear went I felt the vibration when coming off the throttle.

I trust Tim's work.  If you had splines going he would have seen them and told you so.

[longrider]

it would be wise for slugro to remove the pumpkin and check the u-joint and shaft slines even IF a bearing is bad

[slugro]

 Hi Everyone!  I thought I would update you.  I haven't pulled the rear tire or final yet, but I pulled the boot back and chunks of metal and lots of metal dust fell out.  I think that is good indication it is the U-Joint.  I pulled the U-joint away from the engine shaft and the spines were okay, so I think the metal chunks must has come from the joint. While I am doing this, I am going to do the bearings also. Another question....  I found the U-Joint at several places online for around $130 - $140.  However, at http://www.hondaparts-direct.com/ it was around $65.00.  What gives??  Has anybody used them and are they selling new OEM parts or something else?  Thanks for all your input!!  Slug

[Willow]

$65 is the correct price for a new U-joint.  It should be about that at any distributor.

As to the bearings, if they're not bad I wouldn't mess with them.  I've had them last as long as 90,000 miles and go as low as 22,000.  It's my belief that when the bearing goes has more to to with the bearing itself and its installation than miles.  Pulling a good beaing, you may replace it with one that will fail sooner.  JMHO.  

[wild6]

Another thing to consider is that since the bearings are force-fit, there's a finite number of times you can change them before you need a new wheel.

[Windjammer]

Hi Everyone!  I thought I would update you.  I haven't pulled the rear tire or final yet, but I pulled the boot back and chunks of metal and lots of metal dust fell out.  I think that is good indication it is the U-Joint.  I pulled the U-joint away from the engine shaft and the spines were okay, so I think the metal chunks must has come from the joint. While I am doing this, I am going to do the bearings also. Another question....  I found the U-Joint at several places online for around $130 - $140.  However, at http://www.hondaparts-direct.com/ it was around $65.00.  What gives??  Has anybody used them and are they selling new OEM parts or something else?  Thanks for all your input!!  Slug

Yes Willow is correct. HDL price is $65 and with that you get the two yokes with the U-Joint already installed. Brand New. I did the same thing called local Honda Stealers. way out line with prices.