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Author Topic: Final Drive Gear - checking oil for now, replacing the fluid soon...  (Read 1432 times)
Fatboyman05
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Posts: 152


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Palm Coast, Florida


« on: April 17, 2012, 09:13:13 AM »

I have read the write ups on shoptalk about checking and changing the fluid which is great because even I understand it, however I would like to know

Is this the filler cap “o” ring “33 O-RING (30.8MM) 91302-001-020   $2.50” correct part number?

Is this the Crush Washer referred to in the Clymer manual for the drain plug on the final drive? “38 WASHER, DRAIN (14MM) 94109-14000  HDL cost $2.50”?

I have a torque wrench that will fit on the drain plug with a wobble extension, what do I need to torque the filler cap bolt? (cobra exhaust is in the way and no plan to pull that anytime soon)

The oil from Clymers is Hypoid gear oil, SAE 80 and the write up calls for synthetic gear oil 75W-90 (and I have seen refrences to posts to many brands)  so is it safe to say that they are essentially equal so long as it is the correct weight?

Should I condiser buying a new drain plug or filler cap?

I have no idea when the fluid was last changed (or if...) and for the moment I am not sure when I will be able to pull the rear tire to inspect anything inside there so I want to do all that I can for now...

John
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14807


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2012, 11:05:38 AM »

I have read the write ups on shoptalk about checking and changing the fluid which is great because even I understand it, however I would like to know

Is this the filler cap “o” ring “33 O-RING (30.8MM) 91302-001-020   $2.50” correct part number?

Is this the Crush Washer referred to in the Clymer manual for the drain plug on the final drive? “38 WASHER, DRAIN (14MM) 94109-14000  HDL cost $2.50”?

I have a torque wrench that will fit on the drain plug with a wobble extension, what do I need to torque the filler cap bolt? (cobra exhaust is in the way and no plan to pull that anytime soon)

The oil from Clymers is Hypoid gear oil, SAE 80 and the write up calls for synthetic gear oil 75W-90 (and I have seen refrences to posts to many brands)  so is it safe to say that they are essentially equal so long as it is the correct weight?

Should I condiser buying a new drain plug or filler cap?

I have no idea when the fluid was last changed (or if...) and for the moment I am not sure when I will be able to pull the rear tire to inspect anything inside there so I want to do all that I can for now...

John

Whatever lube you use for the final drive NEEDS TO BE HYPOID RATED.  There is only 150cc in there if its not rated for this type of service it will break down quickly. 

No need to use a torque wrence on the fill or the drain plug, just snug is all you need.

Its easiest to cahnge out the oil during tire changes when you final drive off the bike, but if you want to do it on the bike Cobras are the best to have.  Simply remove the 4 bolts (2 per side) that hold the pipes to the passenger foot peg mount and then you can simply rotate the pipes aout of your way
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BradValk48237
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Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2012, 12:24:23 PM »

Was just a thread on this:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,40831.0.html

I have never used a torque wrench on either..... but you do have to be careful on the filler cap because it will crack if over tightened....... did it ONCE.... years ago on an older wing...

I actually think the drain plug on the rear drive is the same as the oil drain plug.... at least they looked like it as I had both out at the same time last week..... but I did not try it.....

Dont want to beat a dead horse though....... Smiley

Brad
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Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2012, 01:30:57 PM »

The hex head rounds off easy too.  Just snug it up, it's soft aluminum. Don't ask how I know.  Hoser  Shocked
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

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F6MoRider
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Posts: 294


Lakeland, FL


« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2012, 02:08:18 PM »

Ditto on the DO NOT torque the filler bolt.  Very soft, will snap off with the threads inside making it hard to remove.  Local stealer had one in stock when I torqued mine!  Arrrgh.  The crush washer is the same as the one used on the oil pan.
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VRCC #4086
2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2012, 03:31:00 PM »

the aluminum washer is 14 mm, same as the oil drain plug washer.  Buy them in bulk from HDL and save a few bucks.  I bought 100 many years ago and have given most away to other Valk riders.  Worked out to $0.30 each.

I don't re-use mine as I still have a lifetime supply of 20 or so.  My Wife's VTX also uses the 14mm for the final drive.  I even use these on my Rocket....
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Gary
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Posts: 1049


Northern New Mexico


« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2012, 03:39:56 PM »

Ditto ditto on the "do not overtighten" for the filler cap.

I had barely tightened mine and it fell off onto the floor. I've had it off and on several times over the years, it must have just been tired. Not expensive to replace, just inconvenient.

I was able to roll the remaining headless cap threads right out easily with my finger.
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sandy
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Posts: 5403


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2012, 09:06:18 PM »

I have 127K on the tourer. Never changed the crush washer. It's original and doesn't leak. The filler cap seals by an O ring and not by being tight. As for the drain bolts being the same. They are interchangeable but not the same. The drive unit has a magnet embedded in the bolt to hold metal filings. Clean it off when you change the final drive oil. 75WX90; 80WX90; 80W are all good as long as they have the GL5 rating. Most gear oils have this rating: it's common.
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