Mobil-1 15-50 "anti-wear protection for performance vehicles"

[lifguardct]

I just picked up some mobil 1 15-50 and noticed that the front of the bottle now says "anti-wear protection for performance vehicles" that I never saw before.  Did they change something, is it still OK to use?

[wild6]

As I understand it, if the bottom of the API ratings circle is blank, it's still ok.

[John U.]

Mobil 15w50 does contain some moly. Some have had problems with a slipping clutch, most don't.
I have had some slipping so I mix it 1 to 1 with a diesel motor oil which has no moly; problem solved.

[Brian]

I have bottles here that state the very same thing and some older ones that don't. The bottom of the API circle is still blank on all. No slipping so far even riding two up.

[Patrick]

i have not looked at a jug to read what you're mentioning.. Take a good look at the jug, what they may be talking about is zinc for flat tappet camshafts..

[2qmedic]

Food for thought...
Are you really running in severe conditions?
IE racing, towing campers or running through death valley at 120 degrees.

15w-50 does not provide additional protection if not used in severe conditions. The viscosity is higher and more resistant to flow (makes more oil psi). With higher viscosity oil, oil flow is actually reduced trying to go into the smaller ports in the head. It is the oil flow and psi balance that is needed for the best protection.

You'll see the damage only after long term use. We have one member whom uses 15w-50 or 20w-50. He said he has no problems after 300K miles, but...he has to rebuild the heads every 100K miles.

Last year I spent some time speaking with an engineer on the subject of oil for our motorcycles.
he suggusted that because the Valkyrie is water cooled and unless we are running in extreme conditons mentioned above, don't use the max grade in the manual, it's just not needed.

Also, 0w-30 or 5-30 synthetic is even better (oil flows through the motor quicker on start up) and is just fine for typical riding. If your hot dogging all the time then maybe 10w-40...

Like I said, food for thought...

[lifguardct]

Thanks for all the replys, I have always been a big fan of 5-40 Rotella Synthetic in many of my other bikes but because some here mentioned the louder transmission whine and clunk in the Valk's I thought I would try Mobil-1 in the big girl. Every other bike that I put Rotella in ran cooler and shifted better than before. I don't know if Summer in South Florida would be severe duty for the machine, (but it sure is for the rider) lol...  Again, thanks for the input.

[3fan4life]

Oil can be a "Touchy" subject around here.

A lot of guys use Mobil 1

A lot of guys use Shell Rotella T

Both are good quality motor oils but neither are specifically formulated for motorcycle use.


Personally I use Amsoil motorcycle oils.



I use 10W40 in the Valk and other water cooled bikes

and

20W50 in the air cooled bikes.


Like I said Mobil 1 and Rotella T are both good motor oils.


Personally I like knowing that I am using a high quality full synthetic oil that is specifically formulated for motorcycle use.

The following link is to a PDF that compares Amsoil motorcycle oil with several other oils:


http://enhancedsyntheticoil.com/docs_Amsoil_Motorcycle_Oil_White_Paper.g2156.pdf

[sugerbear]

Food for thought...
Are you really running in severe conditions?
IE racing, towing campers or running through death valley at 120 degrees.

15w-50 does not provide additional protection if not used in severe conditions. The viscosity is higher and more resistant to flow (makes more oil psi). With higher viscosity oil, oil flow is actually reduced trying to go into the smaller ports in the head. It is the oil flow and psi balance that is needed for the best protection.

You'll see the damage only after long term use. We have one member whom uses 15w-50 or 20w-50. He said he has no problems after 300K miles, but...he has to rebuild the heads every 100K miles.

Last year I spent some time speaking with an engineer on the subject of oil for our motorcycles.
he suggusted that because the Valkyrie is water cooled and unless we are running in extreme conditons mentioned above, don't use the max grade in the manual, it's just not needed.

Also, 0w-30 or 5-30 synthetic is even better (oil flows through the motor quicker on start up) and is just fine for typical riding. If your hot dogging all the time then maybe 10w-40...

Like I said, food for thought...

rebuilding heads on a valkyrie?

[2qmedic]

Yes, rebuiling heads on a Valkyrie. I had to look twice also. He had rebuilt his heads 3 times in about 300K.
Air cooled bikes with summer city riding, I agree...
Amsoil = good stuff...too much $$$ for me.
I use 5-40 Rotella T Synthetic also, like the stuff.

Severe duty as I was told from the engineer at Shell, was where there is as excessive load on the motor as in towing (which increases oil temp significantly because of the increased friction), and racing. The other was excessive heat from the enviroment such as continual use in a desert enviroment were it was taxing the ability of the radiator to stay in operating limits persay. Stop and go traffic in Fl may use the radiator fan more, but the engine oil will be cooler (runing down the interstate causes more internal motor friction and therefore more oil heat).

Yes, I've read the oil post and plenty of other articles concerning oil. One oil vs another is a personal issue if proper maintenance is preformed. But, so many times I've heard people say a higher viscity oil gives increased pressure...well then lets run 90w oil in the motor. Awesome pressure but no flow. It's the combination of psi and flow that protects the motor.

Formulated for motorcycle use = no friction modifiers as the base difference.

Like I said...just food for thought concerning the thicker stuff

Cheers  

[Tx Bohemian]

Severe duty as I was told from the engineer at Shell, was where there is as excessive load on the motor as in towing (which increases oil temp significantly because of the increased friction), and racing. The other was excessive heat from the enviroment such as continual use in a desert enviroment were it was taxing the ability of the radiator to stay in operating limits persay. Stop and go traffic in Fl may use the radiator fan more, but the engine oil will be cooler (runing down the interstate causes more internal motor friction and therefore more oil heat).

Yes, I've read the oil post and plenty of other articles concerning oil. One oil vs another is a personal issue if proper maintenance is preformed. But, so many times I've heard people say a higher viscity oil gives increased pressure...well then lets run 90w oil in the motor. Awesome pressure but no flow. It's the combination of psi and flow that protects the motor.

Formulated for motorcycle use = no friction modifiers as the base difference.

Like I said...just food for thought concerning the thicker stuff

Cheers  

Totally agree here.

For more interesting reading on oil:
bobistheoilguy.com

This site cleared up a whole bunch of questions for me as far as viscosities, additives, etc... enough to where, at my next oil change, I'm going to change the 20W-50 Mobil 1 to a different viscosity synthetic.