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Author Topic: Radio and Digital Display cut out when releasing cluth lever to start moving  (Read 1418 times)
Maldog
Member
*****
Posts: 65


Woodstock IL


« on: July 30, 2012, 04:12:37 PM »

To Me this is a weird  one lol . I start the bike the dash display and radio are workin fine ,I squeeze the clutch lever ,put it in 1st and when I start to release the clutch lever the radio and dash display cut out,oya also when shifting up and down through the gears the green nutral light come on every time i squeeze the clutch lever,other than these issues the bike seems to be running ok.Have any of yor guys had these probs and can tell me where to look or what to fix or replace..I should mention the bike hasnt run  for about a year cause of solinoid | starter button issues .Im in the process of getting new ones and installing them,anyway if any of ya all can tell me where to look on this new prob your comments and help as always are greatly appreciated,Thanks  Mal coolsmiley
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jer0177
Member
*****
Posts: 556


VRCC 32975

Pittsburgh, PA


« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2012, 04:29:24 PM »

All three of those circuits (Neutral switch, clutch switch, power to stereo/display) go through the "Interstate Electrical Gremlin" splice "connector" built into the IS wiring harness.  I'm not saying this is the problem, and that it's not a ground issue somewhere or something along those lines, but if you haven't ripped that gremlin out by his hairy ears yet, it might be that time.

I did mine last week - took me a few hours and it was all back together.  I'll post the details in the IS Electrical Gremlins thread here:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,25289.0.html
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04strider
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Posts: 20


« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2012, 05:18:42 PM »

Never had this problem on the Valk, but on 2 different Hondas I had the same problem with the green neutral light coming on whenever the clutch was squeezed.  The problem is the diode for the neutral light circuit is shorted and has continuity continuously.  The voltage is back feeding through the clutch safety switch every time it is actuated.  Page 19-22 of the service manual shows the diode and troubleshooting method.  Using a multimeter, if the diodes are shorted, the meter will read 0 ohms resistance between the terminals.  Part # 31730-MAS-601 will probably fix it, or just use 2 single rectifier diodes from someplace like Radio Shack in place of the Honda part.


04STrider
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cbritt84
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Posts: 1


« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2012, 08:45:58 AM »

How ironic that I've come across this post.  I've got the same problem.  Except it only happens when I wash the bike.  Pull the clutch and it works.  Release the clutch, the radio dies.  Only after a day of drying out do I have everything back to normal. uglystupid2
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Jess from VA
Member
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Posts: 30542


No VA


« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2012, 09:17:19 AM »

Keep the hose off this part of the bike.

Spray all control switches with cleaner lubricant before (I do it after) every wash.

Blow the bike off with a gas leafblower after wash. (from top down)











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Novavalker
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Posts: 625


99 Interstate/2017 Goldwing


« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2012, 03:32:11 PM »

Its just a matter of time when your display/radio will crap out. The hidden splice block is inside the main wiring harness located near the swing arm where road spray eventually causes corrosion. If anyone wants the splice block document fix..pm me and I'll email you a copy.
« Last Edit: December 13, 2012, 03:36:08 PM by Novavalker » Logged

“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2012, 04:29:50 PM »

Its just a matter of time when your display/radio will crap out. The hidden splice block is inside the main wiring harness located near the swing arm where road spray eventually causes corrosion. If anyone wants the splice block document fix..pm me and I'll email you a copy.

That's good information but I disagree with your prediction!

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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