Bike won't start in gear, clutch in, stand up.

[GJS]

So i have had an intermittent problem starting my bike that has now become permanent.

I can only start the Phat one in neutral.
Once started I can drop into gear no problem.
I used to be able to start in-gear as long as my stand was up, clutch was in and the kill switch set to run.
Now I can only start in neutral, all else seems fine.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

GJS

[tank_post142]

bad clutch switch or bushing in clutch lever worn so it is not activating the switch. slip a folded business card between the lever and the switch and try it if it starts you'll need to replace the bushing or the whole lever. another fix would be to elongate the holes in the switch so you can move it closer to the lever

[donaldcc]

  this has been addressed a few times.   check out this post from 3 weeks ago.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56746.0.html

[fudgie]

Mine did that the other day but I just pulled back a little further and it started.

[Gryphon Rider]

...replace the bushing or the whole lever.

You can't just replace the bushing that is pressed or cast into the lever and forms the pivot that the lever rotates about; the lever is sold as one piece.  The bushing that CAN be replaced is the one that connects the lever to the piston assembly on the clutch master cylinder, but this has nothing to do with the clutch switch.

[DenverDave]

Can you hear the switch click when you pull the lever, if so, the switch contacts may need to be cleaned.  One screw holds the switch to the clutch assembly. Once you pull the switch you can easily see the contacts. Spray some electrical contact cleaner on the switch.


Dave

[Ricky-D]

Naturally if you had a volt/ohm meter it would be an east matter to check the switch function.

Having the proper tools is the first requirement when attempting to isolate an electrical problem.

To do otherwise is like "Blowin' in the wind"

Get it?

***

[N0tac0p]

i cleaned the end of the butoon on the switch , added a drop of epoxy, viola....fixed

[John Schmidt]

Re. the bushing, I don't recall where I read it but I believe it was one of the Yamaha models uses a replaceable bushing and it fit the Honda handles. If you have a dealer nearby, might be worth checking....take the handle with you obviously.

[Patrick]

Generally you just need to listen for the 'click' and spray some cleaner in the general area and you're good to go for the next decade. But, if that doesn't work, then its time to look at lever/bushing and maybe get out the 'fancy' equipment. Someone did mention years past about a cheaper replacement lever/bushing like John mentioned. I thought it was a Suzuki part, but, the same part could very well be used for many different makes/models. It pays to look around sometimes.

[BlueDrewid]

My '98 Tourer does that too.  At first I was going to fix it.  But, now I kind of like the fact it's yet another small anti-theft device to deter small time punks from stealing the beast. 

So, let me ask this: can the bike be hot wired to start in this condition, a.k.a, by the pro thieves?

[Gryphon Rider]

Why is it every time we talk about the clutch lever and switch, someone has to confuse the issue with the bushing (#2 below) that has an identical part available from  XXX manufacturer.  THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ELECTRICAL SWITCH AND THE "BIKE WON'T START UNLESS I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL" ISSUE.
#2 in the picture does not touch #16 and #18.  #2 pushes on #1.  The brass bushing that #16 goes through is permanently fused to the lever and CANNOT be purchased separately.


To answer BlueDrew, no hot-wiring is needed to circumvent the clutch switch; just put the bike in neutral.

[Bone]

From what I have read in other post I was convinced a worn bushing would cause an egg shaped hole. That would cause the lever to move farther away from the contact point of the switch.
My 98 Tourer is intermittant lately.

[Gryphon Rider]

From what I have read in other post I was convinced a worn bushing would cause an egg shaped hole. That would cause the lever to move farther away from the contact point of the switch.
My 98 Tourer is intermittant lately.

This is true.

[John Schmidt]

Why is it every time we talk about the clutch lever and switch, someone has to confuse the issue with the bushing (#2 below) that has an identical part available from  XXX manufacturer.  THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ELECTRICAL SWITCH AND THE "BIKE WON'T START UNLESS I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL" ISSUE.
#2 in the picture does not touch #16 and #18.  #2 pushes on #1.  The brass bushing that #16 goes through is permanently fused to the lever and CANNOT be purchased separately.


To answer BlueDrew, no hot-wiring is needed to circumvent the clutch switch; just put the bike in neutral.

Gryphon Rider, you were right up to this point: The brass bushing that #16 goes through is permanently fused to the lever and CANNOT be purchased separately.

Now for clarification. The bushing you're referring to is NOT the one that generally causes the problem and isn't the one in question, it is the one the handle pivots on and is removeable as shown in my photo. It takes at least 30 seconds to place it in a vise and tap it out. As for the bushing being available elsewhere, it is a fact and has been done. I simply don't recall from where it was sourced. Just for fun, I think I'll throw the pictured handle in the car along with the pivot bolt. Then during some of my travels around town stop and check for a new source of said bushing. Beats buying a new handle.

[Bone]

Saved this from an earlier post I didn't research the info just saved it;

Clutch lever bushing

The Honda part Number 2285-MBO-006 is $10

The Suzuki part number 59892-08A00 is $3 and exactly the same part.

Thanks to Jeff for that info..

another one,

Posted By: NC_Rob <uncfn13@yahoo.com>
Date: 10/4/2008 at 14:56:09
This was Posted By: "NC_Rob" back in October and I just replaced mine with the $3 Suzuki part and it is a perfect fit.
Needed a new bushing for the clutch lever. #2 in the pic. The honda part (2285-MBO-006) is $10. The suzuki part (59892-08A00) is $3 and exactly the same part. Thanks goes to the guys working the parts counter at Honda of Sanford. Just wanted to let y'all know.

[John Schmidt]

That's not the bushing that the pivot bolt(#16) passes through. Still good info.

[Bone]

Thanks John I see that now.

[Chiefy]

Did you fiddle with the position of the clutch reservoir on the bars before this happened?  If so, you mave have tightened it back up in the wrong position, where the lever goes plenty far enough to operate the clutch, but not far enough to actuate the switch.

[tank_post142]

the lever and the switch are mounted to the same chunk of aluminum

[Gryphon Rider]

I REALLY hope this clears it up for everyone:



If not, I give up.

[Hoser]

New chrome levers are going for 30 to 40 bux on ebay,  I got a pair that work great and they are CHROME!      Hoser

[GJS]

Wow !

Thanks for all them suggestions.

Turned out the the lever was not pressing in far enough to activate the switch.

I listened for the click and is was not there.

I have aftermarket levers with a small adjusting wheel to change the grab distance.
After playing with it, I got it to work again for awhile, but just awhile.
The levers are 3 yrs old and look like crap already. I'll go back to stock levers (in stock) when we get back from our  holidays. For now, I'm just glad to know why & what is going on.

Thanks very much everyone. I really appreciate the pictures and diagrams.

Best regards,

GJS

[Novavalker]

Wow !

Thanks for all them suggestions.

Turned out the the lever was not pressing in far enough to activate the switch.

I listened for the click and is was not there.

I have aftermarket levers with a small adjusting wheel to change the grab distance.
After playing with it, I got it to work again for awhile, but just awhile.
The levers are 3 yrs old and look like crap already. I'll go back to stock levers (in stock) when we get back from our  holidays. For now, I'm just glad to know why & what is going on.

Thanks very much everyone. I really appreciate the pictures and diagrams.

Best regards,

GJS

Exactly what mine was doing. Twisted my Kuryakan  grip so the lever made contact with the metal and not the rubber.
Glad you finally solved it.

[Jabba]

I cut a thin piece of aluminum, then hot glued it to the lever, and now the switch makes... took me 3 minutes.

Mine had a divot worn in the lever from the switch plunger, and I would assume the switch plunger was worn down too.

Jabba

[fudgie]

I REALLY hope this clears it up for everyone:



If not, I give up.

Thx. 

[Ricky-D]

It sure seems to me that whenever a rider asks about what preventive maintenance he should be doing to his Valkyrie that never is it mentioned that lubricating the lever pivot points should be done.

It's the small things that are never dealt with but cause the preponderance of problems.

***

[tank_post142]

here you go Gryphon rider, It would seem that you can purchase the bushing separate:

ps: I have 3 in my spare parts kit right now.

Saved this from an earlier post I didn't research the info just saved it;

Clutch lever bushing

The Honda part Number 2285-MBO-006 is $10

The Suzuki part number 59892-08A00 is $3 and exactly the same part.

Thanks to Jeff for that info..

another one,

Posted By: NC_Rob <uncfn13@yahoo.com>
Date: 10/4/2008 at 14:56:09
This was Posted By: "NC_Rob" back in October and I just replaced mine with the $3 Suzuki part and it is a perfect fit.
Needed a new bushing for the clutch lever. #2 in the pic. The honda part (2285-MBO-006) is $10. The suzuki part (59892-08A00) is $3 and exactly the same part. Thanks goes to the guys working the parts counter at Honda of Sanford. Just wanted to let y'all know.

[F6MoRider]

I REALLY hope this clears it up for everyone:



If not, I give up.

This is exactly what I'd been needing.  I replaced the bushing years ago based on other posts when he problem started.  ...I couldn't start her with the clutch pulled in and in gear, had to shift to neutral.  It didn't change anything but I notice it was scraped and worn...I got it at the Suzuki dealer as it was MUCH cheaper than the Honda dealer.

Yesterday and Today, I put new rubber on the front, dropped and checked the rear end as I used Guard Dog moly 70 paste on the shaft last time to see if what I read was true, it was just fine, still wet with moly and no red rust, also no runny oil in the cup.  Dabbed on a bit of moly grease to see how it changes things over the next 5000 miles.  Reassembled the rear, added saddle bag rails (aarrrgh!), replaced a dead cell battery, changed out both saddle bag locks, changed the oil and filter, changed out the plugs. 

AND I FIXED THE CLUTCH ISSUE based on this post!  I checked for the click and didn't hear it.  i added a thin piece of metal to the face of the clutch where I found the depression and she started up in gear with the clutch in!  Yes!  I came in to search for the saddlebag install link and this popped up, read through it and said FINALLY, I'll try this. 

Thanks for taking the effort and posting this Gryphon Rider!