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Author Topic: Dealer service for driveshaft  (Read 1553 times)
snakemeister
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*****
Posts: 90

Alabama


« on: January 29, 2014, 08:54:16 PM »

  What has anybody paid a dealer to service the driveshaft and final drive to include a new u-joint and driveshaft boot? I'm getting my '97 Tourer ready for it's second 100,000. I've done about all I have the tools and confidence to do to it.
  I live in Clanton , Alabama.If anyone close by has the tools and know how I'll be glad to pay them. In fact would rather so I can watch and learn.
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F6Dave
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Posts: 2266



« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2014, 01:08:38 PM »

How much tread is left on the rear tire?  Whenever possible, it makes sense to do all of those things when changing a tire.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15237


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2014, 01:35:41 PM »

Sure wish you lived about 500 miles closer, I'd help you do it. I'd make you do a good share of the work so you can do it yourself next time. No doubt the dealer will be removing the right side exhaust and the swingarm since they have the mistaken idea that's necessary for servicing the items you mentioned. Using their system you can count on it being pricey. Here's hoping someone closer can lend a hand.  cooldude
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2014, 02:36:19 PM »

Didn't this member say he would help. I know it's a 100+ mile trip but you can help and learn at the same time seems like what you are looking for.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,63929.0.html
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2014, 03:12:29 PM »

Id let these guys help you. I serviced my splines and put in a new u joint last year in a couple hours. Sounds like santa will be there also. These guys know valkyries and I wouldn't think twice about taking their help.
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snakemeister
Member
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Posts: 90

Alabama


« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2014, 07:23:34 PM »

  I'm covering all the bases before I do it. I would like to help so as to learn.The trouble with getting 150+ miles from home is I don't know just what it's gonna need in parts, if any other than seals,  or how long it's gonna take to get those parts.
  Some one on here has paid a dealer to replace the u-joint and driveshaft boot.That would be about the highest service bill.It should also be a one time expense that'll get through the next 100,000.
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


WWW
« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2014, 08:13:18 PM »

It should also be a one time expense that'll get through the next 100,000.

I inspect my u joint every 10-20k. Plus I slap a little grease on it. Its just my opinion but I wouldnt go another 100k without it being inspected.  Undecided
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And we welcome all you sheep...

VRCC-#7196
VRCCDS-#0175
DTR
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Thespian
Member
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Posts: 552


Bonny lake Washington


« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2014, 09:18:36 PM »

 I Don't consider myself a mechanic, but after reading a great number pf post's on all rear end and tire change procedure's, with a minimum outlay of cash for tools, anyone can handle all rear end tasks. You get stuck, just ask a question.  

 Just an FYI. Re installing the U joint boot requires a minimum of 80 four letter words.  Wink
« Last Edit: January 30, 2014, 09:21:59 PM by Thespian » Logged

Smooth is where it's at. (o_0)
Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30495


No VA


« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2014, 12:21:03 AM »

I did the whole thing alone over 4 days, and had never seen it done (besides Dag's very abbreviated video).  I got all my printouts of Shoptalk, and the manual out.  And had a good buddy in MS on the phone a few times for help and moral support.  Had a Ujoint, drive shaft and pinion, but only needed the Ujoint.  Had brake pads. Have jack and all tools.

Four days?  Well, I took my time.  I got stuck from time to time (like the wheel refusing to separate from the hub, like stabbing the new Ujoint onto the trans, fighting to get my wheel back together before realizing the new dampers were in upside down).

My fender wiring was scrubbed, so pulled that out.  There was rust up under the fender so I wheeled that out and painted it.  Repaired and rewrapped the wiring, and tacked it up under the fender tighter than original.  

My rear caliper was a grimy mess, and I took it mostly apart and degreased and cleaned all the parts and pistons really well, and bled the rear line and topped it up, and new pads. Steel wooled the rotor.

My axle had some hard rust and corrosion so I buffed it out and greased it.

Drained and replaced the rear end dope with the drive off the bike.

Replaced the dampers in the wheel.  

My license plate signal bracket to fender mount was loose and needed fixed more than tight bolts.  

I flushed crud and powdered Ujoint out the swingarm drive tube. The Ujoint came out in pieces.

Cleaned and lubed the splines, and pinion, replaced Orings.  

Polished my rear wheel.

Had to run it back and forth to my dealer for a new tire mount 30 miles.  

Reassembled and got stuck a few more times.  Antiseized every assembly nut and bolt.  

This took me about three days, the fourth was to get the Ujoint boot back on.

There were no medical emergencies, but I used up a number of bandaids before remembering how good nitrile gloves are to protect your hands.

My point is even a modest mechanic can do this work, but anything you find during the job should be addressed, and it takes time to learn as you go.  Dealers mostly swap parts out at top speed and clean nothing.  If you like the valk and plan to keep it, this is a job every one should learn to do.  Not necessarily the Ujoint (thou with it all apart, that job is easy), but everything else for rear tire changes and rear end service about every year or every new rear tire.

click each pic in the link.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html
« Last Edit: January 31, 2014, 12:46:06 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
wiggydotcom
Member
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Posts: 3387


Do Your Best and Miss the Rest!

Yorkville, Illinois


« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2014, 04:18:42 AM »

I did the whole thing alone over 4 days, and had never seen it done (besides Dag's very abbreviated video).  I got all my printouts of Shoptalk, and the manual out.  And had a good buddy in MS on the phone a few times for help and moral support.  Had a Ujoint, drive shaft and pinion, but only needed the Ujoint.  Had brake pads. Have jack and all tools.

Four days?  Well, I took my time.  I got stuck from time to time (like the wheel refusing to separate from the hub, like stabbing the new Ujoint onto the trans, fighting to get my wheel back together before realizing the new dampers were in upside down).

My fender wiring was scrubbed, so pulled that out.  There was rust up under the fender so I wheeled that out and painted it.  Repaired and rewrapped the wiring, and tacked it up under the fender tighter than original.  

My rear caliper was a grimy mess, and I took it mostly apart and degreased and cleaned all the parts and pistons really well, and bled the rear line and topped it up, and new pads. Steel wooled the rotor.

My axle had some hard rust and corrosion so I buffed it out and greased it.

Drained and replaced the rear end dope with the drive off the bike.

Replaced the dampers in the wheel.  

My license plate signal bracket to fender mount was loose and needed fixed more than tight bolts.  

I flushed crud and powdered Ujoint out the swingarm drive tube. The Ujoint came out in pieces.

Cleaned and lubed the splines, and pinion, replaced Orings.  

Polished my rear wheel.

Had to run it back and forth to my dealer for a new tire mount 30 miles.  

Reassembled and got stuck a few more times.  Antiseized every assembly nut and bolt.  

This took me about three days, the fourth was to get the Ujoint boot back on.

There were no medical emergencies, but I used up a number of bandaids before remembering how good nitrile gloves are to protect your hands.

My point is even a modest mechanic can do this work, but anything you find during the job should be addressed, and it takes time to learn as you go.  Dealers mostly swap parts out at top speed and clean nothing.  If you like the valk and plan to keep it, this is a job every one should learn to do.  Not necessarily the Ujoint (thou with it all apart, that job is easy), but everything else for rear tire changes and rear end service about every year or every new rear tire.

click each pic in the link.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html


I'm in your camp, Jess. Most of my maintenance work is not done with the intention of setting records. I take my time. Having an Interstate with bag rails always takes longer when doing the rear end servicing. But when it's done, it's done right. And we learn as we go. I know my Ujoint is good for many more miles but also learned next time how to reinstall my boot in the easiest way that worked for me...by rolling it up back onto itself and then pushing it tight to the swing arm and then unrolling it over the swingarm.
Before that, I struggled for over an hour trying the various methods, walking away, etc.
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VRCC #10177
VRCCDS #239
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2014, 05:06:26 AM »


I'm in your camp, Jess. Most of my maintenance work is not done with the intention of setting records. I take my time. Having an Interstate with bag rails always takes longer when doing the rear end servicing.

I'm also a member of the Four Day club  Smiley ... I got rattlebar's quick disconnect kit for the
saddlebags, and they work even if you have rails. I remove the rear fender section when
I work back there, so I'm glad I don't have to worry about the Interstate trunk and stuff...

The quick disconnect kit is really just threaded rods instead of bolts... you remove
the nuts and your bags are just hanging there, and you pull them right off... assembly
is reverse... you can see them in this picture... and you can see how it will be outside
in just a couple of months  cooldude



-Mike
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Jess from VA
Member
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Posts: 30495


No VA


« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2014, 09:31:39 AM »

On both interstates with bag rails, I have only removed the bags and shocks, never the lower fender half or any part of the bag supports or rails.  The tricky key is using the jack to get the bike exactly as high or low as it needed to be to clear those things.... and every thing comes off and goes back on just fine.

Admittedly the amount of time diddling the jack height up and down just right throughout the job may take longer collectively than just taking those things off at the beginning. 

When my axle comes out, it barely clears the bag supports, and drags across the exhaust heat shield, and I do have to reach across and thru the supports from time to time.
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old2soon
Member
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #12 on: January 31, 2014, 05:44:26 PM »

First time you do the rear end service usually the most difficult. Read the older posts about the rear end service here on the tech board and in shop talk. I copied a LOT od stuff from this board and made a loose leaf binder with the pages in plastic and keep it open to the area I'm working on. A lot of the maintenance is pretty straight forward . Some of it might/could get involved. BUT with this board and people wanting to help-it actually does get easier.  cooldude It will AMAZE you how much knowledge about our ride is here at your finger tips.  coolsmiley RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Skinhead
Member
*****
Posts: 8727


J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #13 on: January 31, 2014, 06:00:52 PM »

On both interstates with bag rails, I have only removed the bags and shocks, never the lower fender half or any part of the bag supports or rails.  The tricky key is using the jack to get the bike exactly as high or low as it needed to be to clear those things.... and every thing comes off and goes back on just fine.

Admittedly the amount of time diddling the jack height up and down just right throughout the job may take longer collectively than just taking those things off at the beginning. 

When my axle comes out, it barely clears the bag supports, and drags across the exhaust heat shield, and I do have to reach across and thru the supports from time to time.

That's the why I do mine, the real bitch is the trailer hitch, that's why I don't bother with the rear fender.  I get up in the air, remove the shocks and raise and lower the swingarm as needed.  It's a PIA no mater how you do it with all that crap on the bike.
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Troy, MI
Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30495


No VA


« Reply #14 on: January 31, 2014, 07:41:11 PM »

It's a PIA no mater how you do it with all that crap on the bike

Yeah, it kinda is, esp always working solo.  Lots of the work is one-man anyway.  But some of the work is just so much easier with a helper, like wrestling the heavy wheel/car-tire off and on, and trying to get the axle back thru swingarm, wheel, brake caliper and spacer on both sides all at once, or the helper working the jack to put the bike at just the right height.  Then, there is just the number of times you have to get up and walk back and forth for one more socket or tool, or to check the manual where a helper just handing you what you need as you go would be a big help.   (Hey, hand me my beer, nothing else seems to be working.)

Last time on a rear end was a buddy's bike at his place and it went 5 times faster than my first time alone, including his front tire swap.  Course his bike was like showroom and needed no other fixes/clean-ups like mine did.

It gets easier with a little experience, no doubt. 

I inherited those Waynes World stainless flames stuck in the gaps between the bags and frame on one bike, and after drawing blood cleaning the bike and having them in the way of any work back there I gave them away.  Good riddance.

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