Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« on: August 10, 2014, 04:07:38 PM » |
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Im looking for the gears to replace when a hydro lock occurs. Seems to be just the idle gear broken but cant see the bigger gear ( drive gear) that connects to it so I need both part numbers or all part numbers anyone can think of I will need.
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2014, 04:42:39 PM » |
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Really just need part number for the 2 or 3gears that break during hydrolock
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Flrider
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Posts: 2622
Jack
Kissimmee FL
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« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2014, 09:22:29 PM » |
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When I had my Hydrolock, I only needed #16 but sometimes you also need #19 or even the rear case. Have you had a chance to look at the damage? 
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« Last Edit: August 10, 2014, 09:43:10 PM by Flrider »
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2014, 05:47:30 AM » |
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Looks to be just #16 but went ahead and ordered 16,17 and 19 just in case. We're pulling the motor this week and will get a better look inside. It still starts but sounds like a can of marbles. After starting it runs smooth and has all kinds of power. Just this stupid hydro lock issue.
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2014, 01:27:10 PM » |
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Look inside the hole to the immediate left, you may see that your rear case has broken. Also, I've had hydrolock twice thus far and the second time, my #20 broke as well. LOOK VERY CAREFULLY at the bolts holding this #20 into the case and be sure there are no spider veins/cracks in the right case. LOOK VERY CAREFULLY 
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel 00' Valk std - complete build 00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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sequoia
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« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2014, 03:31:04 PM » |
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I'm not sure how tech savvy you are but I would love a bit of a rundown even if it's a vague synopsis of how taking the motor out of the bike goes. Pictures would be awesome and degree of difficulty levels too. Good luck I hope all goes well and iamb excited to read about your experience.
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1997 Valkyrie 1970 Honda CB 750 Chopper 1997 Harley Road king 1980 Harley Wide glide 1965 Triumph Bonneville 650 1986 Harley Sportster 1980 Yamaha Special II
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2014, 07:12:11 PM » |
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Motor is out of the bike. It was pretty simple. Got the clutch case off and basket out. Now all we need to do is get the output shaft lock nut off and break the rear case free. Looks to be only 1 tooth broke and the case is not broke to the immediate left. Gotta pick up a socket to fit that out put shaft tomorrow and figure out a way to hold the clutch shaft to keep it from spinning. Should have more news tomorrow night.
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2014, 05:54:07 AM » |
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Sequioa basically: Tank off, Carbs out, exhaust off, ( preferably a bike jack) jack under engine, with wheels on ground@@@...remove engine guard, remove right side removable frame section, remove motor mount bolts and finagle it out of bike paying particular attention to ujoint/ shaft assembly so as not to damage spline. Patience is a virtue and the beast will go into defence mode if you dont treat her proper.
Anyone else fill in what i missed?
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel 00' Valk std - complete build 00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2014, 05:59:55 AM » |
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I left the carbs on the bike
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Flrider
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Posts: 2622
Jack
Kissimmee FL
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« Reply #10 on: August 12, 2014, 01:06:40 PM » |
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I left the carbs on the bike
You have to find the cause of the Hydrolock. Do you know what caused the HL on your brother's bike? If you have stuck float needles, then you need to take the carbs off so you can clean them and get new float needles. You don't want to go through the trouble of fixing the damage and have it happen again. The cause of my HL was dirt inside my tank and stuck float needles. Had to clean tank, redo carbs, I did order new float needles and jets. Also installed a Dan Marc, Pingel ( I did solder an extension tube to keep the same range before hitting reserve) and a Golan fuel filter. I know is a lot to think about but since you are already there, you might want to do the desmog also. Keep us posted on your guys progress  Oh, I almost forgot, since you have the motor out, check the condition of the U joint.
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2014, 01:10:22 PM by Flrider »
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2014, 02:12:41 PM » |
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Im about 99% positive it was the faulty petcock
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #12 on: August 12, 2014, 05:55:04 PM » |
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Can't (most likely) be only the petcock. It also takes a carb with a problem, 2 things, to make a HL. I believe the only way it can ONLY be the petcock, is if the diaphragm has a hole in it, and it leaks down the vacuum line to cylinder #6. Any other cylinder is involved, then you have 2 problems. Sequioa, do you not have the Service Manual yet? Look on there for more/pictures on the engine removal. http://valkyrienorway.com/download.htmlAlong with other install manuals for Valkyrie items.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #13 on: August 12, 2014, 07:02:01 PM » |
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Just a couple pictures of the rear case apart and the broken gear. 
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2014, 07:04:52 PM by Gavin_Sons »
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2014, 07:03:45 PM » |
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sequoia
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« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2014, 07:18:59 PM » |
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Awesome thanks Gavin
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1997 Valkyrie 1970 Honda CB 750 Chopper 1997 Harley Road king 1980 Harley Wide glide 1965 Triumph Bonneville 650 1986 Harley Sportster 1980 Yamaha Special II
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #16 on: August 12, 2014, 07:37:56 PM » |
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Not a problem. Our new gear and gaskets should be here friday and we will start piecing it back together. Hopefully have it running and on the road again early next week. We went ahead and desmoged it while the motor is out. Makes it a lot easier. I made a couple sockets to fit the lock nuts inside the cases today at work. One was 1 7/16 which fits the output shaft lock nut and the other was a 1 13/16 which fits the clutch basket lock nut. I know everything is metric but it is what I had at work. Cut the back off both sockets, welded a piece of pipe between the 2 pieces and used my 1/2 inch impact to remove the nuts. ill post a picture of my sockets in a few.
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2014, 07:44:28 PM » |
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scoobydoo
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« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2014, 08:05:13 PM » |
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Gavin, when I when thru the same thing, I found my carbs leaking. I had mine lock up 4 times and found gas in 4 different cyls. I did not break anything (was lucky) I removed the carbs and ran the gas line from the tank to the carbs that I had setting a couple feet lower to get some head pressure. Let it sit with the gas on (gutted the petcock) I found gas leaking out the carbs that would have ran into the cyls. if it was all back together. I rebuilt the whole carb assembly, but did not replace the needle valves, ran the check again and still had some leakage. Replaced the needle valves and finally got it to stop leaking. If the petcock was the problem you should have had gas on top of the piston that the vacuum line that goes to the petcock. Not trying to tell you what to do, but being you have gone this far, seems reasonable to do a little more troubleshooting on the carbs. Good luck
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #19 on: August 13, 2014, 04:33:44 AM » |
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Thanks Phil, I'll check just to make sure they are not leaking while the motor is out. i'll just put the tank back on and run the fuel line straight from the tank to the carbs with an inline filter. if they leak over night we know we need to tear into them, if not i'd call it good and start putting it all back together.
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scoobydoo
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« Reply #20 on: August 13, 2014, 10:04:39 AM » |
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Sounds like a plan. Mine did not leak much, had a paper towel under each port, after a few mins. saw the towel getting wet. I had to use a Q-tip & carb. cleaner and really rub the seats to get them clean. 1 still leaked a little even with the new needle valve.
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #21 on: August 18, 2014, 06:37:49 PM » |
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Got our parts today to put the motor back together. Got everything done and ready to put her back in tomorrow evening. Even went through the carbs and cleaned and checked everything out on them. Should be reay for the road thursday or friday. Rainman has the rear wheel and is going to install a car tire for us. The job really is not all that hard just time consumimg.
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #22 on: August 20, 2014, 04:32:15 AM » |
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So last night we got the motor and carbs back in the bike and everthing connected. still have all the tins center cover rear wheel, u joint, pegs, brake pedal, and a few miscellaneous parts. It is coming back together though. hope to get the rear wheel back from Rainman either tonight or tomorrow night.
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Valkbg
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« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2014, 02:08:32 PM » |
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Am new at all this. Have HL condition need help with socket location. Will check carbs etc for such and this peacock I hear other riders are using, what that about and where locate one? Thanks
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DK
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« Reply #25 on: November 06, 2014, 06:39:17 AM » |
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I'm new to the forum and Valkyries to a lesser extent and was not aware that a hydro lock could do this damage until reading this post. I had assumed the starter would just lock up and that it might be necessary to change the oil if an overfill occurred.
Would it be possibly / adviseable/ safe to install a default-off solenoid valve and / or a fuel filter in the fuel line? It seems that doing this might minimize the problem.
I shudder to think of having to do this repair four times.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #26 on: November 06, 2014, 06:47:32 AM » |
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I'm new to the forum and Valkyries to a lesser extent and was not aware that a hydro lock could do this damage until reading this post. I had assumed the starter would just lock up and that it might be necessary to change the oil if an overfill occurred.
Would it be possibly / adviseable/ safe to install a default-off solenoid valve and / or a fuel filter in the fuel line? It seems that doing this might minimize the problem.
I shudder to think of having to do this repair four times.
I think a Dan-Marc valve is a good idea. Some have had problems with a filter. I think it was JeffK that had a good write up of the shut off valve and filter that he put on. If nothing else it gives you a little peace of mind.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #27 on: November 06, 2014, 05:24:52 PM » |
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DPK, I would suggest a search and find a few more posts on it.
Then come back and post your own thread asking a question.
First thing I recommend, and something I did every Monday when I drove my bike to work, is after I get on the highway, I turn the petcock off. When (if) the engine starts to starve for fuel, then I know I don't have one of the possible 3 items that can allow a hydro lock.
I've bought a fuel pump from a Shadow 1100, and plan on putting it into my next Valkyrie. Don't know how yet, but I don't turn my petcock off.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #28 on: November 07, 2014, 05:23:48 AM » |
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DPK, I would suggest a search and find a few more posts on it.
Then come back and post your own thread asking a question.
First thing I recommend, and something I did every Monday when I drove my bike to work, is after I get on the highway, I turn the petcock off. When (if) the engine starts to starve for fuel, then I know I don't have one of the possible 3 items that can allow a hydro lock.
I've bought a fuel pump from a Shadow 1100, and plan on putting it into my next Valkyrie. Don't know how yet, but I don't turn my petcock off.
? You are going to put it on so that it stops fuel flow when the bike is off ?
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #29 on: November 07, 2014, 08:11:34 AM » |
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after I get on the highway, I turn the petcock off. When (if) the engine starts to starve for fuel, then I know I don't have one of the possible 3 items that can allow a hydro lock. That is not a very satisfactory indicator. Reason being that it would take (for instance) less than a drop a minute to be able to cause a hydrolock situation. Certainly not enough to let an engine continue to run, which this test confirms. Only positive way would be to disconnect the fuel line and observe the results with a catch bottle. ***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #30 on: November 07, 2014, 05:22:40 PM » |
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I've bought a fuel pump from a Shadow 1100, and plan on putting it into my next Valkyrie. Don't know how yet, but I don't turn my petcock off.
? You are going to put it on so that it stops fuel flow when the bike is off ? Yes. Relay and all that would normally come with the fuel pump.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #31 on: November 07, 2014, 05:31:47 PM » |
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after I get on the highway, I turn the petcock off. When (if) the engine starts to starve for fuel, then I know I don't have one of the possible 3 items that can allow a hydro lock. That is not a very satisfactory indicator. Yes, and no. It is a quick test to confirm that there is no major issue with the petcock. I have no reason to suspect my good running vehicle, with clean fuel, clean tank, and flushed out a few times as a new to me bike with carb cleaner (and the start of the season), getting the same approx. gas mileage as other bikes, would have a secondary problem with the carb floats. It takes 2 issues to make a hydro lock. Fuel getting past the petcock in any way, and a carb float not turning off the fuel, allowing it to drip into the cylinder.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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