slider
|
 |
« on: December 12, 2014, 04:26:15 PM » |
|
replaced shifter seal today and noticed the shaft coming out of trans could be wiggled around quite a bit,the bee shifts fine but this being loose worries me ,,am I just worrying to much or should I be looking at a repair for it... can anyone tell me..thanks again
|
|
|
Logged
|
a proud navy veteran
|
|
|
old2soon
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2014, 04:44:15 PM » |
|
99700+ miles replaced one shifter seal shaft slightly loose does NOT leak oil from shifter seal and still shifts and runs fine.  RIDE SAFE.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
|
|
|
bentwrench
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2014, 06:15:06 AM » |
|
94,000 replaced the seal once.The shaft has some play but no leaks. BW
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
salty1
Member
    
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2014, 06:40:22 AM » |
|
Just the nature of the beast IMO. All three of my Valk have some play in the shifter rod, but don't leak oil.
|
|
|
Logged
|
My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
|
|
|
Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2014, 07:13:34 AM » |
|
Yep, normal.
|
|
|
Logged
|
CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
|
|
|
|
indybobm
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2014, 03:52:03 PM » |
|
I talked to the guy who designed it. He is on Goldwingdocs. He said that at this time, it will not work on the Valk.
|
|
|
Logged
|
So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
|
|
|
Bighead
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2014, 04:27:11 PM » |
|
Why would you need it to?
|
|
|
Logged
|
1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
|
|
|
gordonv
Member
    
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2014, 07:06:07 PM » |
|
The long shifting arm on the GL1500s act like levers, and "rotate" near their fixed point on the engine block.
I believe more complain of port shifting and seal leaks on the GW than on the Valkyrie. I don't see how, only more complaints.
The lever support bracket acts as an extra pivot point closer to the actual shifter that you place your foot on/under. This stops the shift arm from flexing, no longer putting undue stress on the seal.
indybobm, I thought I read somewhere that it wouldn't work, but couldn't find it in goldwingdoc. I think you posted it here in a thread earlier in the year. Not having a Valk, or the problem, I have had no need to follow up on it.
But if someone is having this problem, it might be worth looking at a modified version of this devise, maybe work with the original creator on a Valkyrie friendly version.
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Black with custom paint IS  
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2014, 07:08:55 PM » |
|
replaced shifter seal today and noticed the shaft coming out of trans could be wiggled around quite a bit,the bee shifts fine but this being loose worries me ,,am I just worrying to much or should I be looking at a repair for it... can anyone tell me..thanks again
I guess I'd have to ask by "quite a bit" are we talking 1/8 inch slop left and right? Unless it's something really ridiculous like that, it wouldn't be an issue. Supporting that shifter shaft inside the housing, I believe, are two needle bearings in a row. When Honda designed the shifter shaft, they realized that the extension arm to get out past the pipes the heads etc. would be quite long and would put a lot of radial strain on the shifter shaft; that is why they gave it an extra bearing to take that load. So again, unless your shifter is really, really sloppy, in which case even changing the oil seal wouldn't probably contain it all from leaking, I would say just ride it and enjoy it. By the way, my bike had a little slop too – maybe .025-.030" side to side – so I got to looking at a schematic to see what exactly is inside the case supporting that shaft. I also looked at the Goldwing aftermarket support bracket they make, which unfortunately will not work on a 1500 Valkyrie, but you wouldn't need it as someone already said because this isn't really an issue with Valks.
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2014, 06:47:44 AM » |
|
Supporting that shifter shaft inside the housing, I believe, are two needle bearings in a row. When Honda designed the shifter shaft, they realized that the extension arm to get out past the pipes the heads etc. would be quite long and would put a lot of radial strain on the shifter shaft; that is why they gave it an extra bearing to take that load. So again, unless your shifter is really, really sloppy, in which case even changing the oil seal wouldn't probably contain it all from leaking, I would say just ride it and enjoy it. By the way, my bike had a little slop too – maybe .025-.030" side to side – so I got to looking at a schematic to see what exactly is inside the case supporting that shaft. I also looked at the Goldwing aftermarket support bracket they make, which unfortunately will not work on a 1500 Valkyrie, but you wouldn't need it as someone already said because this isn't really an issue with Valks. [/quote] Needle bearings taken into account, my 11,000 mile '2000 Standard has too much slop - approximately 1/8" from center in all directions ( at the splined end of the shaft, not at the exit from the transmission shifter shaft ). This is not caused solely by radial play existing in the internal shifter shaft. It is in large part due to the amplification caused by the length of the internal shaft away from the it's exit from the transmission aggravated by the fact that in shifting we are pressing up and down rather than in a rotational movement. In my situation, the slop in my shifter is not yet bad enough to cause a problem shifting in a normal manner but it is enough that I'm having to modify Big Bike Things forward controls by installing Heim joints in the linkages in order for the controls to function properly. Further, the shifter shaft problem is only going to quickly get worse over time due to the undue strain on the shaft caused by the original design of the shifter mechanism. My Valk is low mileage and the slack is really not that bad compared to higher mileage Valks. With the internal needle bearings, this pivot should be a permanent fix. Watch the video on the fabricator's site: http://www.gl1500auxiliaryshifterpivot.com/I'm looking forward to purchasing this device ASAP. If it doesn't happen, I'm going to purchase a Goldwing version & modify it for my Valk as explained in my earlier post in this thread. Dan
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2014, 07:39:46 PM » |
|
The GWing pivot could be working on a Valk inside an hour if you could weld aluminum to steel.
It just occurred to me that you could replace the steel crashbar spacer with an aluminum one & TIG it.
I really think Cliff can modify his pivot for Valks without much problem.
Dan
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
peppilepew
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2014, 08:50:04 PM » |
|
I am concerned about aesthetics. The bracket and pivot need to look like they belong there. I know I wouldn't want a fugly out of place accessory on my toy. Powder coating in black may be the answer.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2015, 06:31:42 AM » |
|
Seems to me this is all about a fix where there is no problem.
My Valkyrie is 15 years old and I never had a problem with the shifter.
Never had a problem with the way the bike shifts.
Replaced a shifter seal 5 or 6 years ago. That's it.
Does anybody consider the unintended consequences of a modification?
***
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2015, 08:36:54 AM » |
|
I'm sure the pivot would be out of sight unless you were lying on the ground looking up.
I cannot imagine any undisireable consequence.
Obviously I want Cliff to modify the pivot for use with the Valk.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
peppilepew
|
 |
« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2015, 06:19:36 PM » |
|
Seems to me this is all about a fix where there is no problem.
My Valkyrie is 15 years old and I never had a problem with the shifter.
Never had a problem with the way the bike shifts.
Replaced a shifter seal 5 or 6 years ago. That's it.
Does anybody consider the unintended consequences of a modification?
***
Problem prevention is first and foremost. I have sold over 700 wing pivots and have yet to take one back because of mechanical issues or customer dissatisfaction. They work as intended when properly aligned. Valkyries have a similar geometric design and deficiency. The shift lever is shorter on the Valkyrie. There are wings out there with zero slop in their shifter. Finding neutral is much easier with this mod.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2015, 09:22:24 AM » |
|
Cliff, Making any progress on modding the pivot to fit Valks?
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
 |
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2015, 10:02:15 AM » |
|
243K+ miles on MGM.
Replaced 1 shifter seal.
Shaft has some slop, was made that way.
Have a Chet's Kick shifter on it and it does get slammed into gear pretty hard when I'm on the drag strip, especially going to 2nd.
In my opinion, you are worrying 'OVER' nothing.
Ride the damn thing and enjoy it, quit worrying about things that do not have an issue.
|
|
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar 
|
|
|
Gavin_Sons
Member
    
Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
|
 |
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2015, 02:38:40 PM » |
|
Wouldn't aligning the shifter shaft dead center make for more smooth shifts through all the gears? Maybe this is what they are trying to fix. My Interstate shifts really hard and my brothers tourer shifts like butter. I'd buy one of these little doo dads if it hepls the shifting clunkiness on some bikes that has this problem.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
 |
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2015, 03:13:53 PM » |
|
I'd be inclined to buy one too, even if it's preventive, provided the thing doesn't cost HD! 
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
 |
« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2015, 03:20:46 PM » |
|
I'd be inclined to buy one too, even if it's preventive, provided the thing doesn't cost HD!  If you should happen to ride a Gold Wing in the very near future, you will see the difference in the Valk & GW shifting. Now, if you still want to toss your $$$$ at one, PM me and I'll send you my address for your donation. IT AIN'T needed on the Valk. Do ya remember the fork brace of yester year? Well it isn't needed on the Valk anymore, however, they do make one for the Gold Wing to this day.
|
|
« Last Edit: January 19, 2015, 03:35:04 PM by R J »
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar 
|
|
|
Gavin_Sons
Member
    
Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
|
 |
« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2015, 03:43:34 PM » |
|
What does the fork brace have to do with the shifter shaft?  . Just kidding RJ? would be interesting to see if these hard shifting valks get smooth after this add on. I'd be willing to pay to to find out.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
 |
« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2015, 05:19:59 PM » |
|
Seems to me this is all about a fix where there is no problem.
My Valkyrie is 15 years old and I never had a problem with the shifter.
Never had a problem with the way the bike shifts.
Replaced a shifter seal 5 or 6 years ago. That's it.
Does anybody consider the unintended consequences of a modification?
***
Problem prevention is first and foremost. I have sold over 700 wing pivots and have yet to take one back because of mechanical issues or customer dissatisfaction. They work as intended when properly aligned. Valkyries have a similar geometric design and deficiency. The shift lever is shorter on the Valkyrie. There are wings out there with zero slop in their shifter. Finding neutral is much easier with this mod. I'm reviving a dormant thread here, but I've been keeping an eye on my shifter shaft – I've put about 1000 miles a month on the girl over the winter– and the shifter's side play is getting a little bit worse each time I inspect it. It's still shifts fine, it hasn't leaked any oil since I replaced the seal, but it's the only thing that's not rock solid about my bike, so it kind of bugs me. Still I'm also inclined to defer to everybody who says "just ride the thing and don't worry about it." I guess bottom line is I just want to ride without unscheduled downtime for repairs, and I'm willing to implement whatever it takes to keep the thing shifting the way it should. Any update on the development of a modification bracket for Valkyries?
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
 |
« Reply #24 on: March 01, 2015, 09:47:32 AM » |
|
You should closely inspect the connections on the shifter assembly
to determine the "side play" is not simply a loosely connected spline
resulting from a poorly tightened bolt. Most all looseness in the assembly
will arise from this kind of an oversight.
The shifter shaft will have looseness that is intended by manufacture.
Shifter shaft looseness can only be addressed by a change in the engine case.
***
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #25 on: March 01, 2015, 04:22:52 PM » |
|
Shifter shaft looseness can only be addressed by a change in the engine case. *** That is simply wrong. It's standard engineering practice to support a shaft at both terminal ends so to ensure long service life and precise movement within the range of its motion. In the case of our Valks, the shifter shaft protrudes from the casing in a normal fashion, presenting an external splined stub shaft which projects from the housing a couple of inches. All is good to this point. In new condition, there is probably radial play of < 1/32". From there, we attach the first lever which comes back about 2" and offsets outward about 3" which terminates in another splined shaft to which another 4" lever, commonly referred to as the shift lever / foot peg is attached. Point is that when you take the 1/32" specced free play where the shaft emerges from the engine/transmission housing & multiply it by the 9" total length & dogleg offset of the shift lever, that original 1/32nd. becomes 3/8" or 1/2" of flop at the shifter peg. Supporting the outer end of this shaft simply makes sense for either correctional or preventative purposes. My interest is that I need to tighten up the linkages so as to be able to design more accurate forward controls. It's to everyone's interest to correct this design flaw and be able to find neutral on a regular basis. I hope Cliff moves ahead with modifying & offering his hanger bracket for Valks. If it doesn't happen soon, I'm going to buy one from him & modify it for my Valk. Dan
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
 |
« Reply #26 on: March 01, 2015, 07:06:56 PM » |
|
Shifter shaft looseness can only be addressed by a change in the engine case. *** That is simply wrong. It's standard engineering practice to support a shaft at both terminal ends so to ensure long service life and precise movement within the range of its motion. In the case of our Valks, the shifter shaft protrudes from the casing in a normal fashion, presenting an external splined stub shaft which projects from the housing a couple of inches. All is good to this point. In new condition, there is probably radial play of < 1/32". From there, we attach the first lever which comes back about 2" and offsets outward about 3" which terminates in another splined shaft to which another 4" lever, commonly referred to as the shift lever / foot peg is attached. Point is that when you take the 1/32" specced free play where the shaft emerges from the engine/transmission housing & multiply it by the 9" total length & dogleg offset of the shift lever, that original 1/32nd. becomes 3/8" or 1/2" of flop at the shifter peg. Supporting the outer end of this shaft simply makes sense for either correctional or preventative purposes. My interest is that I need to tighten up the linkages so as to be able to design more accurate forward controls. It's to everyone's interest to correct this design flaw and be able to find neutral on a regular basis. I hope Cliff moves ahead with modifying & offering his hanger bracket for Valks. If it doesn't happen soon, I'm going to buy one from him & modify it for my Valk. Dan Dan, I'm curious if you have any idea how you'll modify the GW bracket, assuming Cliff doesn't get there first. I'm thinking something will bolt up where the crash bar mounts under there, correct? The modification will probably involve shortening the crash bar mount by however thick the support bracket is. I'm also thinking that Cliff has thought of that, and is probably playing with a way to modify his Gold wing product minimally to do the job on the Valkyrie.
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
 |
« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2015, 10:14:55 AM » |
|
3/8" to 1/2" flop at the shifter peg is an absolute exaggeration, absolutely. Only from misuse would this amount of movement occur. And then, I could only imagine this kind of misuse resulting from the employment of an aftermarket heel/toe shifter. Additionally, I can't recall ever, a post from anyone using a heel/toe shifter, posting anything resembling this kind of failure. Let me refer you to my post on January 2nd: Seems to me this is all about a fix where there is no problem.
My Valkyrie is 15 years old and I never had a problem with the shifter.
Never had a problem with the way the bike shifts.
Replaced a shifter seal 5 or 6 years ago. That's it.
Does anybody consider the unintended consequences of a modification? ***
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2015, 08:50:37 AM » |
|
I recieved a PM asking for my suggestions for modifying the GW pivot pivot to function on Valks & thought it might be of some benefit to go ahead & generally post it as follows: I think modifying the GW pivot as now being sold to fit the Valk would be fairly simple based on the assumption that the engine / transmission case castings of the Valk & GW are the same. I'm certain that this is correct. See the schematic of the pedal assembly of the 1500 Valk: http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2000&fveh=132670(You have to reduce the scale to bring the entire shifter pedal assembly into view) And the same schematic pertaining to the 1500 GW shifter pedal assembly: http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2552364&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2000&fveh=132670(Reduce also) As you can see, they are pretty much the same and are identical where necessary for adapting the pivot. Concerning attachment locations for the pivot now being manufactured for the GW the guard bolts directly to the transmission case using only a lockwasher. This is where the Cliff's pivot bracket is attached to the GW using the supplied slightly longer bolt. On the Valk, the engine guard is attached to the transmission case at the same place as the GW in relation to the shifter shaft where it exits from the transmission. However, on the Valk the guard has a +/- 2 1/4" steel pipe spacer inserted between the guard & the transmission case so as to allow the guard to clear the Valk's headers. See the schematics for the engine guard attachment to the respective transmission cases: On the GW: http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.aspOn the Valk: http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2552476&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2000&fveh=132670My idea is that the 2 1/4" spacer on the Valk łcould be cut apart at the proper place and the width of the pivot attachment bracket removed and then attach the pivot in the space created by the removed portion of the spacer. The part of the spacer that is removed should be at a point which allows the pivot to be installed between the transmission case & the spline where the shifter pedal extension attaches. If for any reason the above solution will not align properly, simply replace the stock spacer with an aluminum spacer, grind the aluminum pivot bracket to conform to the spacer at the proper location & TIG weld the pivot bracket to the spacer. If Cliff doesn't get the pivot fabricated for the Valk within the next couple of months, I'm going to purchase one and modify it as described above. Please let me have your thoughts and suggestions on this. Dan
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
 |
« Reply #29 on: March 05, 2015, 10:52:43 AM » |
|
Thanks for the update and being proactive on this 
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
 |
« Reply #30 on: March 05, 2015, 12:20:45 PM » |
|
Gentlemen: If you have spare time and lots of $$$ burning a hole in your pocket, I'd say go ahead. But a little HISTORY here: MGM has 243K+ miles, had a few months of drag racing, has a Chet's Kickshifter that has been POUNDED pretty hard. Guess what: NO problems with that little bit of slop you refer to. So, why do you want to fix something that is not a problem and works just fine? MY advice: Put it back together and ride the 4377 out of it like I have. If I have a problem down the line, I know that abuse made it go bad. When I was racing on the Drag Strip in my various cars & El Camino, we were always trying to modify things to make it go faster. That damn rod ain't going to make it go faster, so put it to together and RIDE, RIDE and enjoy the Roses. FIRE SUIT on, yap all ya want, I'll ignore ya. RJ Out. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar 
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #31 on: March 05, 2015, 02:06:30 PM » |
|
I wouldn't spend as much time as I have on a problem unless I knew I had a problem. This forum is rife with statements of members who have or have had several Valks saying one shifted smoothly & another did not.
I've rode a buddy's Goldwing before & after installing the pivot & can assure you I'm not delusional about the improvement.
Maybe I've got one of the Valks that doesn't shift well. R.J, maybe you have one of the Valks that shifts smoothly. Maybe screaming down the drag strip you're pumping so much adrenaline that you could quick-shift a D-9. I just simply don't know. I do know that finding neutral on my Valk is like stirring a bucket of snot, as we used to say about the old Porsches. I also know mine shifts better with a heel - toe, but I don't like a heel - toe.
At the end of the day, I'm one of those people who strongly prefer everything just right on my machinery. Otherwise I lay awake at night. My brother, on the other hand, is perfectly happy running down the highway or around a race track on something that shakes & shimmies & rattles & bobs & weaves & blows smoke & drips oil - he's perfectly happy as long as he is moving forward & making a lot of noise, says it's more fun that way. Maybe so. I don't know.
I'm snowed in today & have too much time on my hands. Sorry for the verbosity.
Dan
|
|
« Last Edit: March 05, 2015, 02:08:51 PM by DPK »
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
 |
« Reply #32 on: March 05, 2015, 02:31:30 PM » |
|
Like I said earlier, if you got the clinkies and the time.
Spend them clinks & make something.
When ya get all done change out your oil to full synthetic, like Mobil 1 or something along that line. You should see a BIG difference.
Just make sure it has the zinc additive still in it. Mobil 1 is one that does.
You are like my brother, always tinkering and doesn't have a damn thing that really runs like it should. Sorry. But I still love him to death.
If his wife's car takes a spell, guess who's garage it ends up in.
You got it, my son's repair shop.
PS: If you can't find neutral with your heel-toe shifter, I must ask, is is one of Chet's or some off breed thing?
I won't name brands, but there are a couple out there that I wouldn't waste my time putting it on the bike.
|
|
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar 
|
|
|
Hoser
Member
    
Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
|
 |
« Reply #33 on: March 05, 2015, 04:57:26 PM » |
|
I had a Kawasaki 903 once and the shifter lever somehow fell of on the road and I did not notice until I stopped for gas. I bought a vice grip plier at a hardware store, clamped it to the shifter stem and rode it 200 miles to get home. I still carry it in my saddlebag on my Goldwing. Ya never know! Hoser
|
|
|
Logged
|
I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
|
|
|
DK
|
 |
« Reply #34 on: March 05, 2015, 04:58:55 PM » |
|
R.J, don't take me seriously, I'm just having fun. The weather is still bad, but facts is facts.
Like I said, I don't like heel - toe, so I don't use heel - toe. Finding neutral in the biblical way on my Valk is still like stirring a bucket of snot, even a synthetic bucket of zinc snot.
I do use synthetic. Honda synthetic. I don't like reading labels looking for zinc & if I found it, I wouldn't neccessarily believe it was contained in that particular transport load from which that particular quart was filled. Besides, oil is about the cheapest thing involved if you consider dollars and miles - much cheaper than gas.
Actually, I'm a little concerned that my clutch isn't fully disengaging. It pre-load quick shifts like slicing butter but more leisurely shifting is problematic. I'm thinking slave cylinder or clutch damper, but not enough miles. (14,000)
I wouldn't be so persistent about it but for forward controls. There's just too many linkages & too much slop as a result to avoid continual adjustment and long range of motion problems. This pivot together with using Heim joints would solve my problem. Another way, though, would be to fab an arm to attach to the stub spline where it exits the transmission but it would be easier to modify the GW pivot.
I have to have forward controls for long trips due to shattering my left knee in a bike accident a long time ago. Although I've had a knee replacement, the knee is a lot happier when it's straight.
R.J, I think you & my brother would be real happy hanging with each other.
Dan
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
|
|