valk wont start

[zzed28]

 

I am a new guy here with a new to me Valk. Its a 99 standard, 37k miles, looks like new, and with leather bags and windshield. I am in mid Mich with our variable weather and am looking forward to riding this new to me bike this season.  Ive been starting the bike every two weeks all winter long, and riding it around a parking lot, or sitting running for a twenty minute period to keep it running.  It seemed to have a bit of a miss when I bought it, but it went away as soon as it warmed up a bit.  It seems that the previous owners had been running it on reserve constantly, they thought that was what was curing the cold miss, haha.  The miss has been getting a bit worse, and today, a rather rainy day,  the bike wont start at all. Yesterday, the bike would run for a second or two, but only after I let off on the starter button, would it fire at all. Previous days, its been spitting and sputtering, and hasnt actually started and run, for about ten days.  About ten days ago, I did ride it about ten miles, and within a mile or two, the bike was running very well and idled very nicely when it was warmed up.    Ive tested the voltage, it plunged to 9.6 tonight, when running the starter with a supposedly full charged battery. Ive never checked the voltage like that prior to it entering this non starting period.  The batt starts off at 12.4 v when fully charged, and after running the starter for about ten seconds total, the batt recovers to only 11.6 immediately after I let off the starter button.  I pulled a plug wire today and put it on a grounded out plug, there was absolutely no spark when I ran the starter.  I did hook it up with jumper cables to my truck, yesterday hopeing additional voltage would help start the bike, this was for naught, no change at all. It would just spit and sputter a bit.   It seems to be putting out at least some fuel, I am smelling a bit of fuel, when trying to start it and it appears that the enrichening lever is working at least a bit. I also stored it with pure gasoline in it all winter, that is no alcohol,, and thats whats in it now too. There is plenty of fuel in the tank.   So I think I may have at least two problems, first its prolly time for a new battery, even though this one spins that motor over just fine, just like its been doing all winter. I am wondering, if a bad ground wire, can cause this collapse in voltage during starting, since the same problem presented itself, while it was hooked up to jumper cables and a known good truck battery.  Secondly, this has been the most wet day, all winter, and i am wondering if there is a problem area where moisture accumulates and could be wiping out the spark, anyone know of an area where this is likely???  Also, anyone have any idea about the petcock, does it fail to work on regular and only work on reserve.???  I have searched the site and havent found anything specific, help all you Valk geniuses !!!!

Update,,,,,thurs march 26,,, when I tried to start the Valk on thurs, it did present with fire to one plug, so it may have dried out from the extreme wetness of the rainy day on weds,,,,but it still made no try to start, also jumped it from the truck,, and the voltage with the starter spinning,,, when hooked to the jumpers,, bottoms out at 11plus volts,,, but without the cables,, it bottoms out in the high nine volts area  ,,,,,,I am still eager to hear from anyone having an idea as to what gets wet on these things, so I can seal it up after I dry it out,, also in my clymers manual and the honda service manual,, there is a tool that they call peak voltage test,, with a special tool that the honda manual says is not available in the US,, Ive also read that a regular vmm can be used but the voltage for the peak voltage test,  is said to be over a hundred volts, instead of seven volts as with the official honda tester,,,,,,,,,,,anybody know how to test this thing by just using the ordinary tools,,,?????  Thanks in advance for any advice.

[desertrefugee]

Welcome - from another "newbie"!

Get a decent battery in there and try again.

With some fresh gas.

[old2soon]

Start with a good ground. The ground cable SHOULD go from the battery to the engine block. Easy to trace. Battery connection and ground to block and cable clean and snug. Same with the battery hot lead-clean and snug. If you are NOT sure of battery age and with those voltage readings I'd be replacing it. The enriching/choke lever-when you THINK you have it fully engaged push it some more. THAT particular bugaboo is covered in the tech archives rather extensively. Lot of the northern riders treat the fuel and let it sit all winter with out starting it. AND these are cold blooded bitches we ride. I have started and ridden mine in high teens low 20s BUT it argued a might. When you get it running and riding run a can of Techron or B-12 Chemtool thru it. Run her under 2000 R P Ms for a good stretch so the treatment gets into the slow jets/slow circuits. And when you do jump from a car or pickup THAT vehicle needs to be off-NOT running. This will give you a start and B T W-welcome to the insanity!   RIDE SAFE.

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Welcome to the club. Old2soon pretty much hit all the variables to check first. Another culprit could be after those is check about cleaning the starter button 

[desertrefugee]

Sounds to me like the starter circuit is working fine.  OP says motor spins just fine.  There's either a fueling or an ignition problem.  Since dampness seems to have worsened the problem, then ignition is most likely.

Of course, you could (and should) verify all connections are tight and corrosion-free.  Maybe pull them all apart, clean and apply dielectric grease.  But, make sure plug wires are in good shape.  Try spinning it over in the dark and see if there's any arcing going on.  Bad plug wires can definitely cause hard starting.

I still strongly suggest insuring your battery is in top shape and adding fresh fuel.  If the plugs are firing, the bike should start.

...barring any deeper timing/compression/carburetion issue.   But, if it has been running every couple of weeks, it should be fine. 

Think about it.  Recent winter conditions.  Idle in cold/warm/cold temperature cycling garage.  Flat battery.  Condensate in the gas.   Fix those first.  Then worry about the other stuff.

[rugguy]

IS it possible that you aren't fully engaging the choke? If you aren't used to how they work you may not be pushing the lever down far enough. I learned that after having my bike winter in Colorado....

[Bone]

This info is found in our shop talk.

HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED A NEW BATTERY? Well, it's dead and won't accept even a slow charge (voltmeter read is below 13V after a charge). It's dead but you manage to get the bike running and after a good ride it's still dead (see above paragraph). It repeatedly (especially when warm) exhibits the following: You try to start your bike and the motor cranks but will not fire up until you release the starter button. The starter is very efficient and spins just fine with a weak battery but the starter motor steals enough voltage from the coils so that you'll get no spark while it spins. When you release the button, the engine "coasts" that one last revolution without the starter so the coils can fire once and the bike starts (which says something about this fine machine)

[zzed28]

Well thank you all for that and sorry for the original multiple posts. I believe that I am engaging the chokes, I push pretty hard on the lever after it gets stiffer.  In the dead of winter, it was the same way, and started just fine although that bike is touchy and needs choke when its cold.  When I run the starter, repeatedly, I do smell gas I think thats coming out the exhausts.   For what its worth, two days ago, the bike was acting like, run the starter and once you stop with the button the engine coasts one more cycle, and tries to start only then.  That did happen then, but it never did actually start that day.  After a good charge, the batt will only read between 12.3 and 12.6 but usually the lower end of the range.  I am going to check the grounds, and from this time forward will be NOT running the truck when I jump it.  I am also going to drain the gas, and put new in, will also put a can of B12 in it with just a couple gallons of gas, hopefully it will start at some point and will run it at lower speeds to see that the slow jets get the benefit of the B12.   Does anyone know about the tool issue, my manual states that the cdi checking tool that honda manual speaks of is necessary.   Or can the ignition components be checked in some way with an ordinary digital mmeter.  I have most ordinary tuning tools, including timing lite, comp gauge, infrared temp gauge, honda line synch vac gauges, vmmeter , vac tester and I am sure more.

HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED A NEW BATTERY? Well, it's dead and won't accept even a slow charge (voltmeter read is below 13V after a charge). It's dead but you manage to get the bike running and after a good ride it's still dead (see above paragraph). It repeatedly (especially when warm) exhibits the following: You try to start your bike and the motor cranks but will not fire up until you release the starter button. The starter is very efficient and spins just fine with a weak battery but the starter motor steals enough voltage from the coils so that you'll get no spark while it spins. When you release the button, the engine "coasts" that one last revolution without the starter so the coils can fire once and the bike starts (which says something about this fine machine)
[/quote]

[Bone]

I'm close to Ohio 20 miles into Michigan. When I crank mine (un-heated garage) I let it turn just a few times and crack open the throttle just a little. After that first fire just crank it again it starts quickly.

You can jump your battery off of a NON-RUNNING car. Don't run the car.

[zzed28]

HI Bone,

Thats exactly what my bike did all winter, but the rain the other day , seemed to have killed its starting ability.  I should say, we have tried to start the bike in the dark, and there appears to be no lightning bouncing from the plug wires to the engine.  Gonna swap the gas, but b12 in and wait for a couple drying days in a row.  By the way, my bud calls me Bone too, haha.

I'm close to Ohio 20 miles into Michigan. When I crank mine (un-heated garage) I let it turn just a few times and crack open the throttle just a little. After that first fire just crank it again it starts quickly.

You can jump your battery off of a NON-RUNNING car. Don't run the car.

[dpcarson]

I am no mechanic and definitely not an electrical expert, but I read a couple threads on here and maybe in shoptalk about the battery charge having trouble running both the starter motor and sending enough juice to the coils to get good spark if it was low at all.  That article, best of my recollection, went on to say that, this is the reason why you really don't hear it fire often until you actually release the starter button and the power quits flowing to the charger and has a chance to flow through the coils.  I noticed this on my bike as soon as the power starting getting the slightest bit low on my battery.  Switching to a new battery instantly corrected the problem.  Definitely check your connections both pos and neg and check continuity on neg to engine to make sure it is grounded on the engine also.  But if the battery was not coming back up to full voltage, that would be my first suspect.  i wish I could remember exactly where that article or thread was, but age plays a factor in batteries and memories.
\
Good luck

[Bighead]

Sounds like a weak battery. A battery may be strong enough to spin the engine fast enough that it sounds like it will start but not enough juice to actually start. I would try jumping first then if it starts you have your answer.

[The emperor has no clothes]

HI Bone,

Thats exactly what my bike did all winter, but the rain the other day , seemed to have killed its starting ability.  I should say, we have tried to start the bike in the dark, and there appears to be no lightning bouncing from the plug wires to the engine.  Gonna swap the gas, but b12 in and wait for a couple drying days in a row.  By the way, my bud calls me Bone too, haha.

I'm close to Ohio 20 miles into Michigan. When I crank mine (un-heated garage) I let it turn just a few times and crack open the throttle just a little. After that first fire just crank it again it starts quickly.

You can jump your battery off of a NON-RUNNING car. Don't run the car.

I think the rain was just a coincidence. Sounds like your battery is dying. It's happened just like that on mine that we're giving up the ghost.

[R J]

Pull the battery and take it to your favorite auto parts house.

Have them run a load test on the battery.

If new needed, replace.

Move on to check some cables for corrosion.

Clean as needed.

Now, reinstall old battery if it tested good and try it again.

PS:   The little black button the the enricher lever should be pointed straight across the tank to the other side of the handlebar.    If not, PUSH HARDER on the enricher lever.   Oh yes, keep you hands off of that throttle, DO NOT move it till after the bike has  started and run a few seconds.    These Phat Gurls are very touchy about you messing with the throttle while trying to start her up.

[Bone]

Switching to a new battery instantly corrected the problem.  Definitely check your connections both pos and neg and check continuity on neg to engine to make sure it is grounded on the engine also. 

If you think the battery is weak try jumping from a non running car.
You don't have to pull your battery if it's not the problem.

[zzed28]

I have to ask,,, what are the potential pitfalls of jumping the battery from a running car as compared to a non running car. Ive already jumped it twice from a running vehicle is why I am asking.


If you think the battery is weak try jumping from a non running car.
You don't have to pull your battery if it's not the problem.
[/quote]

[Bone]

The car alternator puts out some high current. Motorcycle ignitions, electronics can be damaged.

[BradValk48237]

New battery...... thats the way to go... I had the same issues when I first got mine.. once I put in a new battery It all went away....

Had mine out last week and no problem after sitting for a month on the battery tender....

Im Probably not to far from you.. Live just north of Detroit... Oak Park....

Brad

[desertrefugee]

The car can be running during the jump.  No problem.  The charge voltage will be higher actually aiding your problem - not hurting.   Probably don't need it to be running, but it certainly won't present a problem.

As for the additional "current" being generated, sure, it's there.  But the "load" (your bike) will only draw current that is needed.  The running car will not force current where it cannot be loaded.

When you get right down to it, what are the CCA  (cold cranking amps) on a typical car battery?   Then what is the output of a typical alternator in an automobile?  Perhaps 10% of the battery capacity???

Now tell me that having the car running during the jump is a problem.

[R J]

The car can be running during the jump.  No problem.  The charge voltage will be higher actually aiding your problem - not hurting.   Probably don't need it to be running, but it certainly won't present a problem.

As for the additional "current" being generated, sure, it's there.  But the "load" (your bike) will only draw current that is needed.  The running car will not force current where it cannot be loaded.

When you get right down to it, what are the CCA  (cold cranking amps) on a typical car battery?   Then what is the output of a typical alternator in an automobile?  Perhaps 10% of the battery capacity???

Now tell me that having the car running during the jump is a problem.

I originally said I wasn't going to waste my time answering this since you are an expert.

BUT, you can blow resistors, the computer in the vehicle and all kinds of things.

However, you go ahead and do it as it is your bike & vehicle not mine.

[desertrefugee]

Lol.   Thanks.  I will.  Just as I have many times.

Haven't blown a resistor yet. 

Nice to see folks on the defensive,  backing up their assertions with air.

[zzed28]

Update,, Drained the gas and put B12,, a very heallthy dose in the tank which may have a gallon left, bought some new gas just in case but havnt put it in yet, want to let the b12 work its magic.

Pulled the battery and took it to four differnent auto parts places for load tests.  It passed all the load tests, but there is no reason to believe that the voltage when spinning is doing anything but dropping into the nines like before.

I again jumped it from the truck battery , with the truck off,,,this time.  The lowest reading I found when running the starter was down to the mid elevens. I hope I havnt damaged anything in the bike or truck by running the truck those two times.

Plan for tomorrow, pull the tank, and make sure I actually do have fuel running out the petcock when it should be, I have a vac pump to produce vaccum. Pull all plugs and test for spark, I do have spark today again on number six when I pulled it.   Will examine all plugs, and prolly buy all new ones.

For what its worth, I still think the batt is bad, prolly me just hopeing its bad since that would be so simple to fix, haaha. 

If youve got any other ideas, run em by me.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PLEASE.

[Bighead]

#1 the voltage when spinning is doing anything but dropping into the nines like before.

# 2 The lowest reading I found when running the starter was down to the mid elevens.

For what its worth, I still think the batt is bad, prolly me just hopeing its bad since that would be so simple to fix, haaha. 

#1 not enough to voltage to start a VALK
#2 still not enough voltage to start a VALK
 I may have missed it but does it start when jumped?
#3 buy a NEW battery.

[gordonv]

Did you just add the B12 to the fuel, or did you start and run the bike for about 5-10 min? You want that mixture to get into/through the carbs to do it's work there.

[R J]

Did you just add the B12 to the fuel, or did you start and run the bike for about 5-10 min? You want that mixture to get into/through the carbs to do it's work there.

gordonv, I'd say he just put it in the tank, since it won't start...

[R J]

Update,, Drained the gas and put B12,, a very heallthy dose in the tank which may have a gallon left, bought some new gas just in case but havnt put it in yet, want to let the b12 work its magic.

Pulled the battery and took it to four differnent auto parts places for load tests.  It passed all the load tests, but there is no reason to believe that the voltage when spinning is doing anything but dropping into the nines like before.

I again jumped it from the truck battery , with the truck off,,,this time.  The lowest reading I found when running the starter was down to the mid elevens. I hope I havnt damaged anything in the bike or truck by running the truck those two times.

Plan for tomorrow, pull the tank, and make sure I actually do have fuel running out the petcock when it should be, I have a vac pump to produce vaccum. Pull all plugs and test for spark, I do have spark today again on number six when I pulled it.   Will examine all plugs, and prolly buy all new ones.

For what its worth, I still think the batt is bad, prolly me just hopeing its bad since that would be so simple to fix, haaha.  

If youve got any other ideas, run em by me.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PLEASE.

Okay Chief, perform the following tasks.

1.   Carefully pull the right sidecover.
2.   Look for a black boot with a bunch of wire going in and out of it.
3.   Pull the boot back and take a good look to see that the item that looks like the above picture, hopefully does not look like this.
4.   If it does, you need to replace this melted part.   Using older gold wing parts or like some of the guys have done on this site.      Do a search and read all of the links that come up.



Here are the parts I used.   Have to move the big red wire to match the red on on the Valkyrie.



Let us know what ya find.

[desertrefugee]

Expanding on what RJ has just shown, I can speak from lots of Goldwing experience that the high current passing through that connector (I believe it is the stator connector as with the Goldwing) has caused lots of misery in the GL1200 world.    Recommended practice there is to eliminate that connector and hard solder the connections.  Those connector contacts develop resistance over time and then do not handle high current well.  The result is obvious in the photos above.  The plastic connector body is melted, but more importantly, the contacts have been scorched creating an even higher resistance condition.   This makes a bad situation even worse.

...made me go out and see what kind of shape mine was in.


And zzed28 - you did not hurt your Valkyrie by jumping it off a running truck.

[R J]

Expanding on what RJ has just shown, I can speak from lots of Goldwing experience that the high current passing through that connector (I believe it is the stator connector as with the Goldwing) has caused lots of misery in the GL1200 world.    Recommended practice there is to eliminate that connector and hard solder the connections.  Those connector contacts develop resistance over time and then do not handle high current well.  The result is obvious in the photos above.  The plastic connector body is melted, but more importantly, the contacts have been scorched creating an even higher resistance condition.   This makes a bad situation even worse.

...made me go out and see what kind of shape mine was in.

Driving lights without a relay, jump starting the bike with the jumper car RUNING also cases this.

[desertrefugee]

Driving lights without a relay, jump starting the bike with the jumper car RUNING also cases this.

I'm afraid we might just have to respectfully agree to disagree on this one.  That connector carries the full  current drawn by the entire motorcycle through one wire.  Depending on accessories - or even factory - that can be a lot of current.  Especially if the contacts are degraded.  They will get hot.  Over time it's cumulative. 

Driving lights will often be wired separate from that connector straight off the battery.  If not, the load will still be the same...but the switch will suffer.
 

[R J]

I agree with you there partner.

PS:  It is your welding that you know what.

LOL.........

Sorry, I had to toss that out.

It is a friendly jab bro.

[desertrefugee]

Aw, man.  Now the secret is out.

Sure hope the OP gets his Valk started, oh by the way.

[zzed28]

NO, it will not start when jumped with the truck, the voltage stays in the elevens though when I jump it from the truck. I know in the Yami venture world,,, the cdi would fire down to something in ten volts.  I would just love to buy a new batt and be done with this, but I think the connector is the problem now, I think that is what explains all the bizarre stuff thats going on.  If all the voltage is running the bike thru that one wire,,, any kind of tarnish will put that into a problem.. I did find my cans of DeOxIt today while looking for some dielectric grease, so if this is what it is ,,,,the DeOxIt is sposed to be about the best. And I can sure solder, but is solder ok with that thing, kuzz the one reply says to find another connector.

I had another post to ad,, re looking into that connector, dont know if I can that done tonight but tomorrow for sure.  Or at least take a gander at it.  So is the final solution for tht connection, to find some new parts, or to hard solder all the connections??"?  If solder will do it, I am good, if I gots to find parts, not so good.  The dealers here are not so hot at all.  Pretty much stuck with Stevens Midland , or even  worse mount pleasant.

Its good that its still cool out and I dont mind working on that thing.  And yes, it will be good when this op gets his valk going.





#1 not enough to voltage to start a VALK
#2 still not enough violtage to start a VALK
 I may have missed it but does it start when jumped?
#3 buy a NEW battery.
[/quote]

[desertrefugee]

I don't know if you ever mentioned where you were reading the 12V battery voltage, but if it's directly off the battery and still dropping dramatically when trying to start, then the connector is not likely to be the cause - it's the starter current drain that's dropping the voltage so dramatically during cranking.  But, if that connector is not passing voltage efficiently, it won't help that the control box isn't getting a good 12V.

Try reading the 12V at that feed to the rest of the bike.  The fat red wire on the suspect connector.  Take the reading on the side opposite the alternator.   Folks here have said that the Valk likes a solid 12V to the box.  Most bikes do - Yamaha in particular.

Do you have spark on the plugs?  Pull one, connect it, ground it, crank it over and look for fire.  Fat blue = good.  Fat red = workable.  Feeble red = low primary voltage.   None = Report back.

The very first responses urged you to try a fresh battery.  You really ought to do that.   

[RonW]

These things are available on the Internet, $6.

[zzed28]

I am reading the voltage directly off the battery terminals.

Ok, I will read it at the fat red wire and see what shows.

I do have spark on the number six plug today, when the bike was being cranked with just the reg bike battery and the charger on.  That is the same as with the last two days,,,its only the really rainy day when there was no spark at number six. I have not pulled the rest of the wires to check them.  Number six is fat blue, yeaaaa.  I know that this spark is also suspect, since there is NO compression when the plug is grounded on the engine, like there is in the chamber.

I am going to do the other stuff tomorrow ,, that is described above.  Check that connector and the voltage at the big red wire.  If all looks good, I am gonna pull the tank and make sure that I have fuel running. If that works, I am gonna pull all the plugs and inspect, and prolly replace them.  I will obviously fix the connector or wires if that is suspect.  I have another battery that I may be able to put in it, I have to check it first.

I don't know if you ever mentioned where you were reading the 12V battery voltage, but if it's directly off the battery and still dropping dramatically when trying to start, then the connector is not likely to be the cause - it's the starter current drain that's dropping the voltage so dramatically during cranking.  But, if that connector is not passing voltage efficiently, it won't help that the control box isn't getting a good 12V.

Try reading the 12V at that feed to the rest of the bike.  The fat red wire on the suspect connector.  Take the reading on the side opposite the alternator.   Folks here have said that the Valk likes a solid 12V to the box.  Most bikes do - Yamaha in particular.

Do you have spark on the plugs?  Pull one, connect it, ground it, crank it over and look for fire.  Fat blue = good.  Fat red = workable.  Feeble red = low primary voltage.   None = Report back.

The very first responses urged you to try a fresh battery.  You really ought to do that.   

[desertrefugee]

Sheesh.  If you have a nice, fat blue spark on #6, we "could assume" that the other 5 are sparking.

If that's the case, refer to post #2 (my response) about fresh gas...

I think your bike just has a case of winter blues.  Get fresh battery and gas in there and kick it in the ass.

It'll go.   (I hope).

[zzed28]

I am going to check the rest of the plugs tomorrow, Ive got the fresh batt on the charger overnight here.  I have fresh gas in a tank, and B12 in with the last bit of old gas.  Gonna try to drain fuel out of the carb bowls tomorrow to put the B12 in its proper place.  Guess I had better check that vac line from number six if thats the one that runs the petcock.



Sheesh.  If you have a nice, fat blue spark on #6, we "could assume" that the other 5 are sparking.

AT this point, I aint assuming anything, plugs can fire outside in atmosphere and not fire under pressure in the chamber, although I have never actually had that happen.  I will pull all the plugs and inspect, and prolly change them all.

If that's the case, refer to post #2 (my response) about fresh gas...

I think your bike just has a case of winter blues.  Get fresh battery and gas in there and kick it in the ass.

It'll go.   (I hope).
[/quote]

[Highbinder]

Here's a easy test for your battery....fully charge the battery, let the battery sit for serveral hours or over night...test with voltage gauge..if its a sealed battery it should read 12.8 or better..12.6 or lower indicateds a partially damaged battery..if your battery is a water type it should read 12.6 or slightly higher, if it's 12.4 or lower the battery is dying...to load  test either type battery, put your tester on the terminals while cranking, if the voltage is below 10.5, the battery is marginal and probably will not start your bike....judging from what you've said, you need a new battery.....starting a bike during the winter and letting it run for 20 minutes or so doesn't help the battery at all, to charge a battery with your alternator takes probably a good 2 hours running over 2000 rpm....good luck...

[zzed28]

My response,   

Hi,   Well four auto shops have load tested it, and said its good, every one!! One said the cca is reading 243,, this on a batt thats only sposed to have 200 brand new, maybe that tells us something about their testing methods!!.  By your testing methods, the battery is marginal, I have charged it on trickle charger multiple times and got readings of between 12.8 and 12.6 as flash readings just after charging. A few hours later, I usually get 12.5 as long as I dont use it in the interim. If I do use it just a bit in the interim, it will fall to 12.3 maybe lower.

 DURING cranking, the voltage at the batt drops as low as 9.5,, but if I jump the thing from my truck, it usually stays in the mid 11 s range during cranking. So by your standards, that bike should have started when jumped from the truck.  This is why I am thinking that , resistance is too high somewhere in the system.

 SO, I purloined the battery from my 1200 Bandit and have it on the charger overnight so will do checks on it pronto.  I also have the batt from my runnable ,,,and running,,, 1400 ninja ready to try .  If the ninja batt does not start the valk, after receiving a hot charge, even though the ninja does start and run fine,, I am gonna be more thinking that I really do have a very high resistance somewhere. After all, the ninja batt, is starting and running an engine with much higher compression, and bigger yet fewer cyls.     However, I am going to check the connector under the right side cover first and see what it looks like, clean it with de ox it regardless of what  it looks like, and also check the voltage there like someone else said.  If that connector is shot, I will do what I can to get a fix in it, whether its new parts or simple silver soldering is the question of the moment.

 If someone can tell me, which wire in that connector should carry 12volts to the ignition system, it would be helpful, I do have the manuals, and am not going to do anything stupid like putting 12v onto a wire that may not be correct without someone chiming in here, as well as confirmation from the service manual wiring diagram.  Of course, I am gonna do the stuff I said in post 36 since it should be easy and cheap anyways.

QUOTE below

Here's a easy test for your battery....fully charge the battery, let the battery sit for serveral hours or over night...test with voltage gauge..if its a sealed battery it should read 12.8 or better..12.6 or lower indicateds a partially damaged battery..if your battery is a water type it should read 12.6 or slightly higher, if it's 12.4 or lower the battery is dying...to load  test either type battery, put your tester on the terminals while cranking, if the voltage is below 10.5, the battery is marginal and probably will not start your bike....judging from what you've said, you need a new battery.....starting a bike during the winter and letting it run for 20 minutes or so doesn't help the battery at all, to charge a battery with your alternator takes probably a good 2 hours running over 2000 rpm....good luck...

[Highbinder]

I forgot to mention that if you are cranking the bike and it starts just as you release the starter button, its a sure sign that your battery is going, after you run it awhile it starts fine, but after it sits again the same thing happens....the interstates have a digtal system, where the stardards and tourers don't, so anything with a memory chip is drawing power all the time, clock, odometer, radio etc...it's not alot of draw but still a draw...heres a good place to buy batteries on line with free shipping...they also sell a stronger battery then the one shown..

http://www.batterymart.com/p-ytx14-bs-agm-maintenance-free-battery.html