2manywings
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« on: September 08, 2015, 06:09:30 AM » |
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First, I want to say that I'm happy to be part of this group! I've been a Goldwinger for about 33 yrs. now, both riding and working on them (the later is how I make my living). The Wing and Valkyrie are very similar animals. I hope to gain knowledge of some of the unique issues with these machines, and will be happy to chime in where I can share my experiences. I recently purchased a 2001 valk. While changing the rear tire I quickly discovered that the driven flange had been starved of grease, and you can imagine the outcome (destroyed both the flange and the ring gear of the final drive unit) . So my options are to rebuild it or replace it. If this were a Wing, the answer would be obvious (final drives are in abundance). But Valkyrie drives that are in good shape are far and few between. So my question is, does anyone here have experience rebuilding them or know where one can be sourced? Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.
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da prez
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« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2015, 06:23:04 AM » |
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There are several on this board that have rebuilt the Valk diff with wing parts. They will chime in when they wake up. I have a diff in stock if you need a loaner .
da prez
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Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2015, 09:55:21 AM » |
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First, I want to say that I'm happy to be part of this group! I've been a Goldwinger for about 33 yrs. now, both riding and working on them (the later is how I make my living). The Wing and Valkyrie are very similar animals. I hope to gain knowledge of some of the unique issues with these machines, and will be happy to chime in where I can share my experiences. I recently purchased a 2001 valk. While changing the rear tire I quickly discovered that the driven flange had been starved of grease, and you can imagine the outcome (destroyed both the flange and the ring gear of the final drive unit) . So my options are to rebuild it or replace it. If this were a Wing, the answer would be obvious (final drives are in abundance). But Valkyrie drives that are in good shape are far and few between. So my question is, does anyone here have experience rebuilding them or know where one can be sourced? Thanks in advance for any and all guidance.
You can press out the spline cup from the ring gear of both and press the "new" spline cup from the GW drive into the ring gear of the Valkyrie drive. I'd move the star hub along with the spline cup. Since you're using the original ring gear, no readjustment of mating faces is needed. Sounds like you've got plenty of expertise to make this a relatively easy task.
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing 
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old2soon
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« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2015, 11:23:23 AM » |
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Get hold of Grumpy-Bill-from-this board. To my knowledge he's done a few. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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indybobm
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« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2015, 11:37:12 AM » |
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In the few that I have done, I have noticed that the bearing spacer between the ring gear and the big bearing is thicker on the Goldwing than the Valk. Not a lot thicker but still thicker. I would suggest re-using the Valk bearing and the spacer from the Valk if possible. Using the thicker Goldwing spacer could change the backlash and tooth engagement pattern.
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« Last Edit: September 08, 2015, 11:39:18 AM by indybobm »
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So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2015, 12:02:06 PM » |
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In the few that I have done, I have noticed that the bearing spacer between the ring gear and the big bearing is thicker on the Goldwing than the Valk. Not a lot thicker but still thicker. I would suggest re-using the Valk bearing and the spacer from the Valk if possible. Using the thicker Goldwing spacer could change the backlash and tooth engagement pattern.
I did two... I agree... use everything from the old Valkyrie final but the splines. I've only tested one for 20 miles, but I cleaned them up real good and painted them, they sure look good there on the shelf  ... -Mike
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Pete
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« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2015, 12:24:08 PM » |
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I just went thru that a few months back.
I just bought the entire rear assembly and wheel flange and replace it all.
Several here on the board have low mileage take offs from a 3 wheel conversion.
It is quick clean and easy. Cost should be $400 to $500 including shipping and all parts.
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2manywings
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« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2015, 05:25:40 PM » |
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Thanks for all of the great feedback folks! Because the Valk is a 2001, it has a polished final drive and is in very nice condition cosmetically. I really want to keep that look. So I went looking and found a good used complete final drive w/ driven flange (star hub) from a GW for a very reasonable price. I'll just gut it out and use the spline cup and matching driven flange, and keep the pinion joint as a spare. Should be able to do the job for under $100. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars today, and for that, I say THANK YOU!! I'll do my best to return the favor.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #8 on: September 09, 2015, 04:20:15 AM » |
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Thanks for all of the great feedback folks! Because the Valk is a 2001, it has a polished final drive and is in very nice condition cosmetically. I really want to keep that look. So I went looking and found a good used complete final drive w/ driven flange (star hub) from a GW for a very reasonable price. I'll just gut it out and use the spline cup and matching driven flange, and keep the pinion joint as a spare. Should be able to do the job for under $100. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars today, and for that, I say THANK YOU!! I'll do my best to return the favor.
If you can document the job and post it back here. It be helpful and interesting for those of us who haven't done it yet but may need to in the future 
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hubcapsc
Member
    
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2015, 04:26:02 AM » |
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Thanks for all of the great feedback folks! Because the Valk is a 2001, it has a polished final drive and is in very nice condition cosmetically. I really want to keep that look. So I went looking and found a good used complete final drive w/ driven flange (star hub) from a GW for a very reasonable price. I'll just gut it out and use the spline cup and matching driven flange, and keep the pinion joint as a spare. Should be able to do the job for under $100. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars today, and for that, I say THANK YOU!! I'll do my best to return the favor.
If you can document the job and post it back here. It be helpful and interesting for those of us who haven't done it yet but may need to in the future  I posted my mis-adventures... http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,48990.0.html-Mike
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2015, 09:21:59 AM » |
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In the few that I have done, I have noticed that the bearing spacer between the ring gear and the big bearing is thicker on the Goldwing than the Valk. Not a lot thicker but still thicker. I would suggest re-using the Valk bearing and the spacer from the Valk if possible. Using the thicker Goldwing spacer could change the backlash and tooth engagement pattern.
Those are shims and come in various thickness for correct tooth engagement of the gears. ***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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indybobm
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« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2015, 11:40:03 AM » |
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So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2015, 12:32:50 PM » |
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Thanks for all of the great feedback folks! Because the Valk is a 2001, it has a polished final drive and is in very nice condition cosmetically. I really want to keep that look. So I went looking and found a good used complete final drive w/ driven flange (star hub) from a GW for a very reasonable price. I'll just gut it out and use the spline cup and matching driven flange, and keep the pinion joint as a spare. Should be able to do the job for under $100. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars today, and for that, I say THANK YOU!! I'll do my best to return the favor.
If you can document the job and post it back here. It be helpful and interesting for those of us who haven't done it yet but may need to in the future  I posted my mis-adventures... http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,48990.0.html-Mike Oh yes, now I remember reading it  So do you still have all of the spare pumpkins ?
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hubcapsc
Member
    
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2015, 12:54:13 PM » |
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So do you still have all of the spare pumpkins ?
I tested one, both of the ones I refurbished are on the shelf looking new.
Whether they work "as new"... well... I tested one, it seems to do right...
-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2015, 01:45:29 PM » |
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So do you still have all of the spare pumpkins ?
I tested one, both of the ones I refurbished are on the shelf looking new.
Whether they work "as new"... well... I tested one, it seems to do right...
-Mike
 Too bad they won't fit on Chewie
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hubcapsc
Member
    
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #15 on: September 09, 2015, 04:47:33 PM » |
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So do you still have all of the spare pumpkins ?
I tested one, both of the ones I refurbished are on the shelf looking new.
Whether they work "as new"... well... I tested one, it seems to do right...
-Mike
 Too bad they won't fit on Chewie I don't think it is supposed to be an issue there... I still have the Red and White... -Mike
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2manywings
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2015, 04:53:03 AM » |
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Well, I just finished the job after a shipping delay of the parts I purchased. I had found a used Goldwing final drive unit complete with driven flange (star hub), both with splines that showed no wear. I paid under $70 for both of these items including shipping which was very reasonable. From here, I did what Valkpilot had suggested. I removed the ring gear from each final drive (the original Valk unit with worn splines and the used one that I purchased). I then removed the large bearing and shim from both. They pry off pretty easily with a pair of large screwdrivers. I then pressed out the spline cups from both ring gears and cleaned all of the parts that I was going to reuse. I then pressed the spline cup from the GW ring gear into the Valk ring gear. From there, I assembled everything in reverse order using the original Valk shim and bearing. That way, there was no need to worry about mating patterns of the gears. I cleaned and regreased the drive shaft splines with Moly 60 and installed. I aligned the final drive as I put everything back together, and all went well and we're back on the road again. I want to thank everyone for their advice.
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98valk
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« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2015, 01:20:50 PM » |
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Has anybody ever looked into if the GW and Valkyrie swing arms interchange? Pros and Cons if they do? just thinking I have no idea except looking at them they look about the same.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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gordonv
Member
    
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2015, 04:33:01 PM » |
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I've heard from another that they fit each others frame.
So if you want cheap parts, swap out your Valk rear swing arm for a GW, and all the rest goes with it, rims/drive.
Don't know if anything needs to be changed with the shocks, or if the height chances also. Might be nice if one is a lower rear than the other, and you need this kind of thing.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Firefighter
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« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2015, 08:13:50 PM » |
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Hey 2manywings, do all the Goldwings final drives need the same maintenance as the Valkyries? Should they be serviced every 10,000 miles or so? Do the wingers neglect this and have the same problems the Valkyrie would?
I plan to try a Goldwing someday.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red 2006 Honda Sabre 1100 2013 Honda Spirit 750 2002 Honda Rebel 250 1978 Honda 750
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98valk
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« Reply #20 on: September 24, 2015, 04:06:10 AM » |
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Hey 2manywings, do all the Goldwings final drives need the same maintenance as the Valkyries? Should they be serviced every 10,000 miles or so? Do the wingers neglect this and have the same problems the Valkyrie would?
I plan to try a Goldwing someday.
same spline maintenance. Honda actually has a service bulletin on this for GL1500s.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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2manywings
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« Reply #21 on: September 24, 2015, 07:28:03 AM » |
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If a Goldwing owner (under normal use) uses the proper grease on the spines (Moly60), you should be able to go tire change to tire change (12-15,000 miles) without any additional teardowns. I use nothing but moly 60. I have experimented with many different products over the years, but have found nothing that holds up like moly 60. It's what Honda suggests and so far, I agree. As to the question regarding the use of the Goldwing swingarm on a Valkyrie... The left side is quite a bit different. The lower left shock bolt protrudes through the swingarm and holds the caliper mounting plate from rotating where as the Valkyrie set up uses a seperate bolt to do that. So it would not be a simple swap. There may be other aspects of the two that need to be compared, but the shock issue is one that is visually different.
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98valk
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« Reply #22 on: September 24, 2015, 09:33:57 AM » |
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I use TS moly 70 paste. have u ever tried it?
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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2manywings
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« Reply #23 on: September 24, 2015, 01:26:33 PM » |
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Never used moly 70, but will look into it. I actually keep a copy of Honda's service bulletin taped up on my tool box. The one thing that Honda states is that the five pins of the driven flange do not get greased. It seems that I read somewhere on this site that those pins get grease. In fact, I believe that the aluminum collars will wear quicker if greased with moly lube. I go by what Mother Honda says and I've had no issues.
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