pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« on: September 30, 2015, 02:47:17 PM » |
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Well.... can someone on here put into simpleton's terms? How to wire in a Dan Marc.
I searched and found some old posts. I have to be honest. When it comes to electrical, you are speaking Japanese to me. Hell I don't even understand the wiring diagrams or the lingo in a few of the posts. Please don't hold it against me!
I put in the Pingel-1311 I think it is. No vacuum line just the fuel. More I thought about it. Days are behind me when I could remember to shut fuel off every time! So I thought I'd better put the DM in. Guy @ work suggested I run wires to headlight and tie in to the low beam line. Wrote me a very simple picture(not a diagram). Seems easy enough. I have never spotted this version on here. Is it Kosher or not?
Waiting to hear from you guys.
Thanks
Pais
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« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2015, 03:57:46 PM » |
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No need to go thru all of that. You can just use the accessory wire that is under the right side cover. It's a 5 amp line, so no need to use a relay.
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Doug1952
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« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2015, 04:00:18 PM » |
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Pais - I connected mine to the aux connectors. The auxiliary output is protected by a 5amp fuse and located under the right cover, under the seat. I used a four pin automotive/trailer connector set because they are cheap and have plenty of excess wire to cut to the desired length. Polarity is not a consideration with the Dan-Marc valve.
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2015, 04:16:41 PM » |
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Pais - I connected mine to the aux connectors. The auxiliary output is protected by a 5amp fuse and located under the right cover, under the seat. I used a four pin automotive/trailer connector set because they are cheap and have plenty of excess wire to cut to the desired length. Polarity is not a consideration with the Dan-Marc valve.
Any pics, by chance? Is it really that simple? Will it only be on when key is turned or when bike is running? |
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2015, 04:19:18 PM » |
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Pais - I connected mine to the aux connectors. The auxiliary output is protected by a 5amp fuse and located under the right cover, under the seat. I used a four pin automotive/trailer connector set because they are cheap and have plenty of excess wire to cut to the desired length. Polarity is not a consideration with the Dan-Marc valve.
Any pics, by chance? Is it really that simple? Will it only be on when key is turned or when bike is running? yes that's correct. I'll try to find a link in the search section.  |
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« Last Edit: September 30, 2015, 04:32:42 PM by meathead »
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BonS
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« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2015, 04:56:37 PM » |
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Do as others are advising here. Absolutely do not connect it to the headlight circuit! If you connect to the low beam then what happens when you turn the high beam? Besides, the headlight circuit is stressed enough already. Use the auxiliary power circuit that's built into the bike.
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2015, 05:05:47 PM » |
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I also agree to use the aux circuit and not the headlight circuit [ especially if the bike is a STD/Tour].
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PhredValk
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« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2015, 04:36:41 PM » |
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To further explain why the headlight wiring is not a good plan, when you switch to Hi-beam the low beam turns off. It's one or the other, not both, so going to hi-beam will shut your fuel valve off.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2015, 05:13:16 PM » |
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Never gave the hi-lo-issue a thought. I thought the hi was an additional light not separate.
Co-worker was adamant about doing it this way. he is the equipment tech/electrician where I work. Thanks for the heads up everybody.
Let me get this straight. I go to auto parts store, get a 4 pin connector, plug it in to aux. and wire the valve?
Worst part of all of this is, fuel valve did not show up yet! beautiful rainy day here on the North coast and couldn't get the work done. So I did what was left that I could. Spent the other two beers on cleaning some chrome. Use to enjoy that when I was younger not so much now.
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2015, 05:17:26 PM » |
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Never gave the hi-lo-issue a thought. I thought the hi was an additional light not separate.
Co-worker was adamant about doing it this way. he is the equipment tech/electrician where I work. Thanks for the heads up everybody.
Let me get this straight. I go to auto parts store, get a 4 pin connector, plug it in to aux. and wire the valve?
Worst part of all of this is, fuel valve did not show up yet! beautiful rainy day here on the North coast and couldn't get the work done. So I did what was left that I could. Spent the other two beers on cleaning some chrome. Use to enjoy that when I was younger not so much now.
Its not a 4 pin connector. Just a simple bullet connector. Look at the pic in the link and then go out to your bike with a voltmeter . It will be 12 volts with the key on and 0 with it off. |
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #11 on: October 04, 2015, 08:48:21 AM » |
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Meathead,
Thanks, this electronics stuff baffles me! Really want to put an aux/power point on Valk to keep phone charged as well as some plug warming attire. I used to do it on cars and trucks when I was younger. All I did then was plug into fuse panel and include an in-line fuse for protection. You guys speak of relays and such, I get lost quick!
Thanks to all you guys, it is appreciated!
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #12 on: October 04, 2015, 10:48:24 AM » |
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Meathead,
Thanks, this electronics stuff baffles me! Really want to put an aux/power point on Valk to keep phone charged as well as some plug warming attire. I used to do it on cars and trucks when I was younger. All I did then was plug into fuse panel and include an in-line fuse for protection. You guys speak of relays and such, I get lost quick!
Thanks to all you guys, it is appreciated!
Hey no worries. If I can do it anybody can. The charger idea is good. I put one on my standard , just wired direct to the battery. When I get off work I'll try to get some pics of it and the aux. input |
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DenverDave
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« Reply #13 on: October 04, 2015, 07:21:54 PM » |
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I use one of these to power the danmarc solenoid, it has 6 switched and 2 un-switched power connectors, each one individually fused. I have the Danmarc solenoid, heated gear power connector and a dual usb power port plugged into the switched side, and a 12 volt power port plugged into the unswitched side. This way I can charge my phone while the bike is off. The switched side is triggered by the 12v aux plug hidden under the right side cover. It really cleans up the battery posts, by only having two wires connected to each post, instead of the three or four some batteries may have.
[url=http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#50akit]http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#50akit[/url]  |
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1999 interstate green/silver Denver, Colorado VRCC#32819 VRCCDS#0238  |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #14 on: October 04, 2015, 07:30:39 PM » |
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I agree My I/S is setup with that. My Standard only has the one hook up. |
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Doug1952
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« Reply #15 on: October 05, 2015, 10:01:19 AM » |
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Pias - I used a flat 4 pin trailer connector set because of price and wire length. My first attempt was with a 2 pin connector from an auto parts store but the out-of-package wire length didn't suit me. The 4 pin style has plenty of extra wire. The advantage of the trailer style connector is that it gives you a physical disconnect should you want to tinker/remove the Dan-Marc at some later date. I spliced into the aux wires, soldered them, used shrink tubing, followed by black electrical tape. This approach preserves the factory output for use by other aux devices as you mentioned. The other member suggested using "bullet" connectors directly into the aux output jacks and that would be an easy and reliable solution as well.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #16 on: October 05, 2015, 12:27:43 PM » |
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Pias - I used a flat 4 pin trailer connector set because of price and wire length. My first attempt was with a 2 pin connector from an auto parts store but the out-of-package wire length didn't suit me. The 4 pin style has plenty of extra wire. The advantage of the trailer style connector is that it gives you a physical disconnect should you want to tinker/remove the Dan-Marc at some later date. I spliced into the aux wires, soldered them, used shrink tubing, followed by black electrical tape. This approach preserves the factory output for use by other aux devices as you mentioned. The other member suggested using "bullet" connectors directly into the aux output jacks and that would be an easy and reliable solution as well.
Good point about the Acc. being used for something else also. |
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #17 on: October 17, 2015, 01:59:28 AM » |
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Been on call at work and working a lot :'(. Bright side is I want to put a Woody on this winter. Extra $ Anyway, so if I attach a bullet connector to one of the wires on the DM and plug into the plug in the pic and run another wire from the DM to a good ground spot. I will be good to go?  |
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #18 on: October 17, 2015, 08:05:09 AM » |
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Been on call at work and working a lot :'(. Bright side is I want to put a Woody on this winter. Extra $ Anyway, so if I attach a bullet connector to one of the wires on the DM and plug into the plug in the pic and run another wire from the DM to a good ground spot. I will be good to go? Right. Just so it is switched on / off with the bike key. You get that with the acc'y wire. BTW they have a plug for ground too, if you want to get another bullet connector. Honda uses odd-size (metric?) connectors; I found not the same as SAE bullet connectors at the car parts stores. I generally remove their bullet connectors and use spade connectors or hardwire with solder & shrink tube. For others who like bells and whistles, I wired mine on both bikes with a latch relay, hidden activator push button, and LED indicator, so it is off unless activated, and goes off with key, kill sw, or tipover. This provides an anti-theft/hijack fuel sw. A perp takes your bike at gunpoint, hit the kill sw and hand him the bike, tell him hit the starter to drive away. He will be out of gas in a mile. I always hit the pushbutton automatically when starting. Faster than turning on / off a petcock. And no danger of hydrolock. http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Fuel_Shutoff/fuel_shutoff.html |
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« Last Edit: October 17, 2015, 08:12:31 AM by MarkT »
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #19 on: October 17, 2015, 11:05:41 AM » |
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Right. Just so it is Honda uses odd-size (metric?) connectors;
Honda uses 3.5 mm. Auto store has 4 mm. vintage connections is a link I have, but their page has been down for over a week since I've been looking for a connector to buy for a project. http://www.vintageconnections.com/ |
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« Last Edit: October 17, 2015, 11:26:59 AM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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pais
Member
Posts: 723
One more turn should do it!
Kent, Ohio
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« Reply #20 on: October 19, 2015, 02:06:50 AM » |
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Right. Just so it is Honda uses odd-size (metric?) connectors;
Honda uses 3.5 mm. Auto store has 4 mm. vintage connections is a link I have, but their page has been down for over a week since I've been looking for a connector to buy for a project. http://www.vintageconnections.com/Ahhh, I am finding this out. Tried to eye up the size I needed. 1st stop was O'reiley's and bought smallest male bullet. Didn't work so NAPA was next stop. They had the next smaller size but not happy with the fit. Now I know why. Connections are ok with the spade connectors? Probably will solder and heat shrink. My son enjoys tinkering with electronics. He likes being on the back of the Valk. He just doesn't want to learn about the mechanics of it :'(. Maybe this will interest him? Please bear with me guys. I've ridden since I was 14. Matter of factly owned bikes before a car. Just have never really wrenched on them. I have found I don't know as much as I thought I did. At 53 I am enjoying the process and loving this motorcycle |
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #21 on: October 19, 2015, 05:08:39 AM » |
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Right. Just so it is Honda uses odd-size (metric?) connectors;
Honda uses 3.5 mm. Auto store has 4 mm. vintage connections is a link I have, but their page has been down for over a week since I've been looking for a connector to buy for a project. http://www.vintageconnections.com/Ahhh, I am finding this out. Tried to eye up the size I needed. 1st stop was O'reiley's and bought smallest male bullet. Didn't work so NAPA was next stop. They had the next smaller size but not happy with the fit. Now I know why. Connections are ok with the spade connectors? Probably will solder and heat shrink. My son enjoys tinkering with electronics. He likes being on the back of the Valk. He just doesn't want to learn about the mechanics of it :'(. Maybe this will interest him? Please bear with me guys. I've ridden since I was 14. Matter of factly owned bikes before a car. Just have never really wrenched on them. I have found I don't know as much as I thought I did. At 53 I am enjoying the process and loving this motorcycle The bullet connectors can be tweaked some. As long as they are making a nice tight connection they are ok IMO. |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #22 on: October 19, 2015, 06:21:36 AM » |
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Right. Just so it is Honda uses odd-size (metric?) connectors;
Honda uses 3.5 mm. Auto store has 4 mm. vintage connections is a link I have, but their page has been down for over a week since I've been looking for a connector to buy for a project. http://www.vintageconnections.com/Ahhh, I am finding this out. Tried to eye up the size I needed. 1st stop was O'reiley's and bought smallest male bullet. Didn't work so NAPA was next stop. They had the next smaller size but not happy with the fit. Now I know why. Connections are ok with the spade connectors? Probably will solder and heat shrink. My son enjoys tinkering with electronics. He likes being on the back of the Valk. He just doesn't want to learn about the mechanics of it :'(. Maybe this will interest him? Please bear with me guys. I've ridden since I was 14. Matter of factly owned bikes before a car. Just have never really wrenched on them. I have found I don't know as much as I thought I did. At 53 I am enjoying the process and loving this motorcycle Yeah you can use spade connectors, male & female. I never depend on just the crimp, always crimp and solder. Easy to accidentally get solder in the connector part so use a "third hand", hold vertically, and solder sparingly. Always shrink wrap. If I don't anticipate needing to break/make the connection - might just splice & solder; no connectors. Bullet connectors are nice; they make a nice "snap" and are a bit more reliable connection IMHO. I never made it a point to go find a supply of them. |
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