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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: again..What is the preferred way to wire in the Dan Marc (AFC 111) fuel valve?  (Read 1622 times)
lljjmm
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« on: February 25, 2016, 09:05:57 AM »

I know it has been in discussion before, but over time preferences change, so therefore I put forth the question again. Thanks for any input.
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N8171S
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Marlboro, Mass


« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2016, 09:33:00 AM »

I put one wire to ground and the other to the aux wire that is under the right side cover,  been working fine for years on both my valks.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2016, 10:07:13 AM »

Or if you already have an accessory fuse block you can wire into the ignition on side of that.
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lljjmm
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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2016, 10:42:26 AM »

Is there any disadvantages wiring directly to coil (black/white wire) with no fuse (or should put a fuse in ( size?) when connecting to coil?) Just looking art my options
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2016, 10:53:58 AM »

Is there any disadvantages wiring directly to coil (black/white wire) with no fuse (or should put a fuse in ( size?) when connecting to coil?) Just looking art my options
I wouldn't wire it to your coils. I remember somebody having issues with misfiring doing that. The Acc. Plug is easiest.  cooldude
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2016, 11:22:17 AM »

I didn't wire it to the bl/wh directly but used it as power source for a relay wired as a latch.  Then added a hidden momentary on pushbutton sw as trigger and a hidden LED that reflects off the chrome to indicate power on.  This provides fuel security against theft / hijacks, as well as safety if you crash.  Fuel is on until you hit the kill, turn off the ignition, or the rollover relay cuts the power.  The pushbutton must be pressed shortly after turning ignition on, either before or after starting.  If you get hijacked, hit the kill, tell the perp to hit the starter.  He will be out of gas in a mile - while you dial 911 and tell the cops where the perp will be sitting on the side of the road on your stolen bike.  I have wired both Deerslayer and Jade this way, and George is soon to be the same.  No problems.

Probably a good idea to add another fuse - wouldn't hurt, could help in the event of a short.

See http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Fuel_Shutoff/fuel_shutoff.html

Here's BonS diagram on wiring a latch relay:

« Last Edit: February 25, 2016, 11:28:02 AM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
big poppa pump
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San Antonio, TX


« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2016, 11:30:18 AM »

One wire from the AFC-111 is connected to a switched output of the accessory block. The other wire connects to the ground via a keyed switch.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pcs-Key-Switch-ON-OFF-Lock-Switch-Key-out-at-OFF-Position-11-5x29-5mm-S1203-1-/250916062099?hash=item3a6bc34393



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VRCC#35870
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

lljjmm
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« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2016, 11:33:51 AM »

What is the recommended fuse size if from an accessory block?
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big poppa pump
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San Antonio, TX


« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2016, 11:39:24 AM »

What is the recommended fuse size if from an accessory block?

The AFC fuel valve consumes very little power. I have it running off a 5A fuse along with a couple of other doodads.
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

lljjmm
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« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2016, 12:16:29 PM »

Looking for shorter barred nipples to come off the Dan Marc valve to attach the fuel hoses, Does anyone know of a source? rather than shortening them by cutting.  Reason to shorten is to put an inline filter in, that is somewhat easy to remove without having to always remove tank to get at it.
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

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« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2016, 01:01:46 PM »

Replace the OEM plastic T where the fuel line splits to the carbs, with a brass one with female I.P. threads.  Same thread as the Dan-Marc outlet.  Then you can save space by connecting the Dan-Marc to the T with a nipple.  This leaves enough space upstream to install the fuel filter.  As for being able to change the filter w/o pulling the tank - good luck on that.  There isn't good access downstream from the petcock from the sides. Frankly I don't think changing the fuel filter frequently is needed, since you already have a screen inside the tank.  Be careful what filter you use.  has to have good flow.  The one R&M (the belly tank people) uses has good flow - better than 2 others I tested.  And it does not cause problems even with the tank low on fuel.  Also take care - the fuel line must go steady downhill, no loops or high places where an air bubble will block flow.  Yeah found this out the hard way.





See this for more discussion on my fuel mods on Jade.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,84264.0.html


« Last Edit: February 25, 2016, 01:05:22 PM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
lljjmm
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« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2016, 07:30:36 AM »

Thanks guys for the input, got it done, it started up just fine, no leaks, just have to take it for a run when the temperature warms up.
Took the power off a fused accessory box, did add a inline filter.
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