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Pal
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« on: March 03, 2016, 09:30:01 PM » |
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HI I need some advice. I have a 98 Valk . The front is very hard, and noisy when i hit a bump . Its like this since i got it last year. I was told it has progressive springs, and new suspension fluid. I got a bike lift yesterday , so i decided to take a look . I took the left fork apart , got approx 25 oz fluid out of it. Now the problem is the right one. I removed the fork cap , but can not squeeze the 17mm wrench on the locknut as it is to deep down the pipe. See pic  Then i went to the bottom to the fork to remove the allen bolt , but wont move even with a 2 feet breaker bar.  I am concerned maybe it was permanently fixed with red loctite or something to stop it leaking ?! i tried to make pic but it does not show much....  Now, turned this fork upside down , pumping it, left it to drain . I only got about 10 oz fluid out of it. Do i have to completely disassemble the fork to get all the fluid out? If not, can i just pour in the the fluid from the top ? If i have to disassemble , how should i deal with that locknut problem? Sorry for all the questions . I am generally good when it comes to follow repair manuals, but i suck when get complications. Thanks |
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« Last Edit: March 04, 2016, 12:30:12 PM by Pal »
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N8171S
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« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2016, 03:15:26 AM » |
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You have to find a thinner wrench or put the one you have to the grinder.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2016, 03:36:55 AM » |
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You have to find a thinner wrench or put the one you have to the grinder.
I've used the OEM tool kit open end, their thin enough. |
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98valk
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« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2016, 04:12:13 AM » |
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"Then i went to the bottom to the fork to remove the allen bolt" PO did that. Forks from factory do not have drain bolts. There were a few posts about 10 yrs ago of a few owners installing the drain bolt. use slightly less fork oil than service manual calls for when using progressive springs. also different forks oils change the smoothness. there is no std for the weights on a bottle like the stds for motor oil. http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/fork-oil-viscosity-chart-ignore-weight-label-390797.html |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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indybobm
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« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2016, 04:59:04 AM » |
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"Then i went to the bottom to the fork to remove the allen bolt"
PO did that. Forks from factory do not have drain bolts.
There were a few posts about 10 yrs ago of a few owners installing the drain bolt.
I may be wrong but it looks like the Parts Fiche shows a bolt going into the bottom of the right fork (item #25). It does not show one for the left fork. It is the right fork he is trying to get apart. From the service Manual  |
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« Last Edit: March 04, 2016, 05:33:48 AM by indybobm »
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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Bone
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« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2016, 05:15:25 AM » |
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98valk
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« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2016, 05:43:24 AM » |
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maybe back then they were talking about doing it to the other fork.
I remember the complaint of no way to drain the oil.
I just briefly saw the posts.
I didn't even know the one tube had a drain since everybody says pull the tubes to drain them is the only way to drain them, which I think is only what the service manual states to do.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2016, 05:50:36 AM » |
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use slightly less fork oil than service manual calls for when using progressive springs. This is subjective... there's a range of what people prefer here, I prefer using exactly what the manual states with progressive springs and I've always used Honda's 10wt oil... After having a good leaker a couple of times, I don't really think a little here or there is even noticeable...  -Mike
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Pal
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« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2016, 07:32:43 AM » |
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Thank you guys!
I will try to locate a thinner wrench
So i can leave the drain plug in place and just drain from the top?
Is it normal that the locknut sits this deep in the pipe ?
I think i will try put 1oz less into each fork (21.5 oz right 24 oz left), if i dont like it i can add 1 oz later.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2016, 07:39:44 AM » |
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The bolt at the bottom of the right hand fork is not a drain bolt. That bolt holds the damper to the bottom of the slide
and it will spring open the shock if you have the top remaining as you have it pictured. You catch hell trying to get
it screwed back in place.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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BigMac (SoCal)
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2016, 07:40:28 AM » |
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That bolt on the bottom of the fork is not a drain plug. It is used to hold the damper in place. You will never get all the oil out because you have to pump the damper once it's out of the fork to get all the oil out. You could try using an air impact to over power the bolt. If that doesn't work then you would have to try and easy out or even drill it out which would be the worst case. I would suggest you take the fork to a mechanic who has some experience at this sort of thing.
Dave
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WintrSol
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« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2016, 08:16:01 AM » |
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Is it normal that the locknut sits this deep in the pipe ?
From your photo, it looks like someone put the lock nut on upside-down.  |
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Pal
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« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2016, 09:43:49 AM » |
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Is it normal that the locknut sits this deep in the pipe ?
From your photo, it looks like someone put the lock nut on upside-down. Wow . I never taught of that ! You are right it is upside-down  Thank you! I was able to take the fork cap down. I had to pry under the lock nut to pull it up a little. |
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« Last Edit: March 04, 2016, 12:27:25 PM by Pal »
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Pal
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« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2016, 12:28:16 PM » |
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Thats how it looks like inside.  Any idea what setup could this be? I have a 12 1/4" long spring and 4 washers what add another 1/4" |
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WintrSol
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« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2016, 12:44:09 PM » |
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If that's the stock spring, it is short by more than 1". Also, it looks nothing like the progressive-wound spring that is in the manual. I'd guess someone messed with that one, but can't guess why.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Pal
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« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2016, 01:38:46 PM » |
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If that's the stock spring, it is short by more than 1". Also, it looks nothing like the progressive-wound spring that is in the manual. I'd guess someone messed with that one, but can't guess why.
Yeah , the original spring would be 13.3 " long, but its not a shortened cut down spring.... ??? |
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98valk
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« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2016, 01:40:04 PM » |
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the stock spring is progressive wound also just weak. I do not think that is oem. The race tech spring kit uses a spring like that, http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Honda/GL1500C%20Valkyrie/1997-2001if so probably has the gold valve kit installed. http://racetech.com/page/id/156 |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Pal
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« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2016, 07:07:19 PM » |
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Yes after looking over hundreds of google pictures , i think its a race tech  I dont thinkits the gold valve doh, no sign of it so far  And can not find any info , or manual about it. What oil, how much etc.. |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2016, 06:28:24 AM » |
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I took my OEM springs out early on (low miles on them) and went with Progressive and am very happy. I would buy new Progressive springs if I were in your position.
However, If you would rather have OEM you can have mine for shipping
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Pal
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« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2016, 10:53:54 AM » |
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I took my OEM springs out early on (low miles on them) and went with Progressive and am very happy. I would buy new Progressive springs if I were in your position.
However, If you would rather have OEM you can have mine for shipping
Chris, that is very kind of you. I would definitely love to try them out. At least i get a feel how OEM feels like. Thanks! i sent you a PM. |
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Pal
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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2016, 05:49:41 PM » |
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i would like to thank everyone for the help. Especially to Chrisj CMA for sending m e the OEM spring. I ended up make my own fork wrench from a piece of pipe, and installed the OEM springs, with SS8 10W oil. It feels much much better now! No more noise coming from the front at every little bump. I am not sure if the Race tech springs where to strong, or the oil was to heavy.  You guys are awesome! |
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pancho
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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2016, 01:28:17 AM » |
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Nothing like having it all lined out and working right.... nice job on the tool.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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RDKLL
Member
Posts: 1222
VRCC #1231 VRCCDS #271
Mesa, AZ
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« Reply #22 on: March 12, 2016, 04:25:30 AM » |
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I was hoping Sandy would check in on this thread....he replaced the seals and other consumables and I also have Progressive front springs and I am almost certain he put the specified amount of 10wt fork oil in both and he then measured with a measuring stick...bike ridaes amazing
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Scottrtho
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« Reply #23 on: April 12, 2016, 01:48:21 AM » |
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Really nice job on the left fork tool. Can I ask what the outer diameter is?
Scott T
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Scottrtho
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« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2016, 04:41:37 AM » |
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Thanks 98Valk. Great. the 38mm donor socket for the stem nut equates to 1 1/2 inches. Guess I'll be making some noise in the garage soon.
Scott T.
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