'98 Maintenance

[peter]

Thought I'd consolidate my posts regarding all the stuff I'm attempting to do to my '98 Tourer.
Projects include:

Replacing both tires
spline lube
remove carb bank and rebuild
valve adjustment (hear occasional ticking)

Thanks to this Board, I got the rear wheel off rather easily - used the shock removal method and didn't have to mess with fenders or exhaust or bag mounts. I also used 2 lifts - the HF under the engine, and a car lift under the swing arm to manipulate it up or down.  I did have a little trouble removing the caliper and wonder how hard it's going to be to put it back on. You guys mount the bracket first, and then the caliper or bolt the 2 together first, and then install?

Don't know if anybody really cares, but I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for all your help
Peter

[Bighead]

I put the bracket on first then the caliper.
The occasional ticking you hear is probably not the valves. Maybe pair valves?

[The emperor has no clothes]

I know a lot of us here say that the valves don't need adjusting, but my Standard needed it after about 35k. It's so easy to do compared to other bikes, I see no reason not to if you think they are clicking. As far as the rear brake. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't remove the caliper from the bracket. Once I pull the axle I just move the whole thing out of the way and put a bungee on it to keep it in place. I think it's more of a pain getting it all back in place than taking it off. But it isn't hard, just get your spacer in there and then the bracket and try to keep it in place while installing the axle.

And I think most of us care to hear about others experiences with our bikes. Looking forward to your good results. 

[Hook#3287]

And I think most of us care to hear about others experiences with our bikes. Looking forward to your good results.

Exactly!  Isn't that the purpose of the board.  It is for me.

I also agree that checking the valve clearance is an easy job and why not do it.  Honda manual says every 12k "Inspect and clean, adjust lubricate or replace if necessary"

Back when I was a kid working in a Honda shop, valve clearance was part of every "Tune up"

[The emperor has no clothes]

And I think most of us care to hear about others experiences with our bikes. Looking forward to your good results.

Exactly!  Isn't that the purpose of the board.  It is for me.

I also agree that checking the valve clearance is an easy job and why not do it.  Honda manual says every 12k "Inspect and clean, adjust lubricate or replace if necessary"

Back when I was a kid working in a Honda shop, valve clearance was part of every "Tune up"

Plus if you've done the shims in the bucket valve adjustment , this will seem like child's play. And yes it really is what this board is all about. I learned a lot about Valkyries from this board that I would have had to learn from trial and error otherwise. And usually with me it's more error than trial 

[Hook#3287]

And usually with me it's more error than trial  Grin

I'm with ya on that brother 

[DK]

I know a lot of us here say that the valves don't need adjusting, but my Standard needed it after about 35k. It's so easy to do compared to other bikes, I see no reason not to if you think they are clicking. As far as the rear brake. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't remove the caliper from the bracket. Once I pull the axle I just move the whole thing out of the way and put a bungee on it to keep it in place. I think it's more of a pain getting it all back in place than taking it off. But it isn't hard, just get your spacer in there and then the bracket and try to keep it in place while installing the axle.

And I think most of us care to hear about others experiences with our bikes. Looking forward to your good results. 

Do the valves loosen or tighten as they wear?

Dan

[The emperor has no clothes]

I know a lot of us here say that the valves don't need adjusting, but my Standard needed it after about 35k. It's so easy to do compared to other bikes, I see no reason not to if you think they are clicking. As far as the rear brake. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't remove the caliper from the bracket. Once I pull the axle I just move the whole thing out of the way and put a bungee on it to keep it in place. I think it's more of a pain getting it all back in place than taking it off. But it isn't hard, just get your spacer in there and then the bracket and try to keep it in place while installing the axle.

And I think most of us care to hear about others experiences with our bikes. Looking forward to your good results. 

Do the valves loosen or tighten as they wear?

Dan

loosen. If I remember I had 2 or 3 that were slightly loose.

[pancho]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I don't remove the caliper from the bracket. Once I pull the axle I just move the whole thing out of the way and put a bungee on it to keep it in place.

And I think most of us care to hear about others experiences with our bikes. Looking forward to your good results. 

That's the way I do it too,, just have never seen the need to do it differently. If the trouble you had removing the caliper was because of a lip on the rotor, it helps to first push or pry the caliper open a bit before removal. Also clean and lube the caliper slider pins while you have it off, and maybe mic the rotor to check it's condition and wear.

Ditto on posting to this board,,I too believe that's what it's for, and every bit of information put up is probably valuable to someone,,,,,   I learned my Valkyrie right here.

[WintrSol]

Do the valves loosen or tighten as they wear?

Dan

On a broken-in engine, they always loosen (unless you have a problem). When breaking in an engine, they can tighten, as the valve seats work in; of course, this is less prevalent with the hardened valves and seats in modern use. Back when you re-ground valves every 20-50k miles, it was a common thing to increase the gap during the initial few hundred miles.

[peter]

While I have the rear wheel off, I'm thinking whether to install new bearings. It looks like a pain and requires special tools. Any strong feelings on this? Bike is a '98 with 20K miles on her. No noticable friction when I spin them but there is a mysterious spacer inside the wheel that moves around quite a bit. Is that normal?

Hope you guys have a lot of patience because I have a feeling I'm just getting warmed up with the questions....

[The emperor has no clothes]

While I have the rear wheel off, I'm thinking whether to install new bearings. It looks like a pain and requires special tools. Any strong feelings on this? Bike is a '98 with 20K miles on her. No noticable friction when I spin them but there is a mysterious spacer inside the wheel that moves around quite a bit. Is that normal?

Hope you guys have a lot of patience because I have a feeling I'm just getting warmed up with the questions....

The spacer is supposed to move . With only 20k and no problems I wouldn't change them. I've got a combined 170k with original bearings. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.

[Tfrank59]

While I have the rear wheel off, I'm thinking whether to install new bearings. It looks like a pain and requires special tools. Any strong feelings on this? Bike is a '98 with 20K miles on her. No noticable friction when I spin them but there is a mysterious spacer inside the wheel that moves around quite a bit. Is that normal?

Hope you guys have a lot of patience because I have a feeling I'm just getting warmed up with the questions....

I have a 98 tourer and did the bearings when she had like 35k--I didn't need to, the OEMs were fine.  I don't have strong feelings about it but it's not going to be necessary unless the OEMs are shot, which you'd be able to detect that by play between inner and outer races (when wheel is off).  There are other ways to detect bad bearings (see posts).  All that said, the mysterious spacer movement inside is cause for concern, IMO.  I'd have to get to the bottom of that, since if it's been shortened somehow so the inner races don't touch it, then your wheel bearings won't live long (extra side load on those = short life).  I wonder if the PO did something in there not right?  curious.

P.S. most of these guys are real patient with the questions

[gordonv]

Your axle needs to be passed through that spacer.

I also believe your bearings should be holding that spacer firmly in place.

If the bearings test out with no signs of wear, why bother replace them.

[pancho]

Your axle needs to be passed through that spacer.

I also believe your bearings should be holding that spacer firmly in place.

If the bearings test out with no signs of wear, why bother replace them.

I agree, the bearing inner races should be seated on the spacer. If you do attempt to seat the bearings, use a tool that contacts both the inner and outer races of the bearing to do the job. A socket or similar will only drive the outer race and can cause undue tension and pressures (balls not seated in the center of the races) in the bearing which can lead to premature failure.

[Chrisj CMA]

I have done all but one wheel r/r for tire changes in 14 years and also many on other's Valkyries and never removed a rear caliper off the caliper bracket, comes off together and then goes on the same

[peter]

Tried to put the rear wheel back on and it would not seat all the way back into the final drive. Loosened the 4 drive bolts, but would not go all the way on. I took the flange off and installed it without the wheel and it seemed to seat fine. I'm going to be found dead in my garage with an 800 pound bike on top of me.

Any tips or ideas?

Peter

[Chrisj CMA]

The wheel may be all the way on, just doesn't seem so at first.  That line around the hub is not an indicator of full insertion

[The emperor has no clothes]

Tried to put the rear wheel back on and it would not seat all the way back into the final drive. Loosened the 4 drive bolts, but would not go all the way on. I took the flange off and installed it without the wheel and it seemed to seat fine. I'm going to be found dead in my garage with an 800 pound bike on top of me.

Any tips or ideas?

Peter

First of all strap your bike to something. Are you using the o-rings from red eye ? I remember someone posting that they were a lot harder to get the wheel on. They are made from polyurethane vs. the viton from Carolina Bike. I forget what they did to get it on. I will do a search and see if I can find the post. BUT BE CAREFUL !

[Hook#3287]

Are you using the axle to line the wheel and hub up?

Put the wheel in place, insert the axle till it starts to stick out of the side, install the spacer and caliper bracket.  If all won't fit, I've used a large wood shim to persuade the wheel into place.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I couldn't find the original post about the red eye o rings. I don't know if this will help or not.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,70954.0.html

[Tfrank59]

Tried to put the rear wheel back on and it would not seat all the way back into the final drive. Loosened the 4 drive bolts, but would not go all the way on. I took the flange off and installed it without the wheel and it seemed to seat fine. I'm going to be found dead in my garage with an 800 pound bike on top of me.

Any tips or ideas?

Peter

First of all strap your bike to something. Are you using the o-rings from red eye ? I remember someone posting that they were a lot harder to get the wheel on. They are made from polyurethane vs. the viton from Carolina Bike. I forget what they did to get it on. I will do a search and see if I can find the post. BUT BE CAREFUL !

Red eyes are a bear to get seated. Even the smaller elusive third o-ring seemed like it didn't want to seat for me this time. I was close to pulling it off and getting a black nitrile one then it finally went together. Like CrisJ says, the line around the hub won't be all the way inside the plastic ring when it's all the way seated.  And by all means be sure the bike is tied down!

[peter]

Thanks, I did think it had to go all the way in to the "line".  But it still seemed to wobble a bit and didn't seat firmly - there was still some back and forth movement.  I'll try lining things up with the axle and try again this morning.

Anybody live near DC?

Peter

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks, I did think it had to go all the way in to the "line".  But it still seemed to wobble a bit and didn't seat firmly - there was still some back and forth movement.  I'll try lining things up with the axle and try again this morning.

Anybody live near DC?

Peter

A trick that makes it a little easier is to put the axle all the thru without the spacer or brake bracket . Get everything all positioned up and then back out the axle just enough to get the spacer and brake in.

[peter]

Update: Got the rear wheel installed! I thought at first the wheel had to go up to the "line" around the final drive. Folks here straightened me out and we have a happy ending. Must be more observant in the future.
I do have one little concern - when installing the brake stopper bolt, there is a gap between the rear brake bracket and the inside of the swing arm. I would have thought it would bolt up flush against it, or there would be a washer to fill the gap. Is this OK? Everything else seems right.

On to the front tire!
Peter
(in Maryland, but really DC)
 

[Tfrank59]

Update: Got the rear wheel installed! I thought at first the wheel had to go up to the "line" around the final drive. Folks here straightened me out and we have a happy ending. Must be more observant in the future.
I do have one little concern - when installing the brake stopper bolt, there is a gap between the rear brake bracket and the inside of the swing arm. I would have thought it would bolt up flush against it, or there would be a washer to fill the gap. Is this OK? Everything else seems right.

On to the front tire!
Peter
(in Maryland, but really DC)
 

As long as you have all the spacers in there correctly, and the bracket stopper is in the hole (to keep it from rotating), you're golden.  Can't remember if my caliper bracket sits tight against the swing arm (doubt it does and too lazy to go check;-), but a small gap in there shouldn't matter.  The stopper bolt goes into the bracket hole a good 3/8" or so, right?

[Bone]

Walked out and checked my 98 Tourer. The bracket is okay or both of us have a problem.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Update: Got the rear wheel installed! I thought at first the wheel had to go up to the "line" around the final drive. Folks here straightened me out and we have a happy ending. Must be more observant in the future.
I do have one little concern - when installing the brake stopper bolt, there is a gap between the rear brake bracket and the inside of the swing arm. I would have thought it would bolt up flush against it, or there would be a washer to fill the gap. Is this OK? Everything else seems right.

On to the front tire!
Peter
(in Maryland, but really DC)
 

Remember to follow the correct tightening sequence on the front. It's in shoptalk . 

[peter]

Thanks for your effort, Bone. Much appreciated.

[peter]

Well, may have messed up here - front wheel was easy to remove and install for a new tire but it appears I may have not installed the speedo unit correctly. I just slapped it on there and learned later (of course) that it has to be aligned with tangs of some sort.  Was going to ride it to see if it worked but thought I'd better ask some one here first before I break something. Do I have to take everything of again and install it properly? 

This is typical for me - I do things 2 or 3 times to get it right.

Thanks for your help
Peter

[Hook#3287]

You'll have to pull the axle enough to get the spacer out and then you can re position the speedo gear.

[indybobm]

Peter, the rear stopper bolt does not thread into the rear caliper mount, it threads into the swingarm. The part of the bolt that goes into the hole in the mount has no threads on it. The mount will not be flush against the swingarm.
As for the speedometer drive, before you tighten the front axle bolt,  rotate the Speedo drive counter-clockwise until it stopped by the locating tang, then tighten the axle bolt.
As for the shoptalk instructions ( and the Honda Service Manual) ignore what it says about bouncing the forks with the right fork pinch bolts loose. The right fork is captured in the axle lockup when the axle bolt is torqued.
It is left fork pinch bolts that should be loose when you pump the forks while applying the front brake. This centers the left caliper over the rotor.

[peter]

OK, I'll unhook the speedo cable,  yank the axle part way out and pull the spacer to make room to spin the speedo unit. BUT the unit will have to end up where it is now - oriented so the cable receptor is in the right place. That's why I'm a bit puzzled but it may all become clear when I take stuff apart (again).

Thanks much.

[indybobm]

All you have to do is loosen the axle bolt on the right side and the right fork pinch bolts, position the Speedo unit and re-torque the axle bolt and tighten the right fork pinch bolts.

[peter]

Ok, all's well. I took the wheel off again only to learn the speedo unit was installed correctly.

The real challenge was reconnecting the speedo cable through the Rivco {?) rotor cover.

I'll ride it and check everything out before moving onto the carb bank.

Anybody seen this great youtube series on rebuilding the carbs?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLTpQCTBsc

[pancho]

Yeah.,,, I think one or two may have come across them peter....  Sounds like you're moving right along through you Maintenance List ,,  .

[peter]

Finished my every-ten-years-or-so maintenance project and she's ready to ride. Replaced both tires, spline lube, removed the carb bank and rebuilt all the carbs, and adjusted the valves. She runs great and I am waiting for a replacement caliper bolt before taking her for a spin.

Thank you all for your help - the support made this all pretty straight forward and gave me the confidence to attempt all this. Thank you and good luck..