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Author Topic: Water Wetter  (Read 1125 times)
big poppa pump
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Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« on: April 05, 2016, 07:33:47 PM »

Planning to start using Distilled Water + WaterWetter in my radiator. If any of ya'll are using the same combo what ratio of water to waterwetter are you using?

TIA!
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

sandy
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Posts: 5386


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2016, 07:53:39 PM »

WW is not a replacement for antifreeze. It's an additive to improve cooling. I recall I put 4 oz of WW in my radiator. Honda recommends a minimum of 40% antifreeze.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15223


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2016, 08:10:29 PM »

I've had nothing but WW and distilled water in my system for at least the last 6-7 years. Change it about once a year, don't recall the ratio but I generally go with the recommended amounts. In winter the bike is parked in a warm garage and I don't ride in freezing weather anyway. In summer it runs cooler, never had a boil over or even close.
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rhinor61
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Posts: 188


Northern California


« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2016, 08:42:18 PM »

I totally believe in Water Wetter. Raced with it for years.

how about the SuperCool with WaterWetter for bikes...

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=117&pcid=10

John
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John

Northern California
1998 Valkyrie Tourer Black/jade
VRCC #28001
98valk
Member
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Posts: 13484


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2016, 02:54:53 AM »

the combo works. I think all WW is silicate free now.
water still corrodes/dissolves things, its what it does.
I prefer www.evanscooling.com. been using it since '01, no problems, never have had to change/add, etc. so cost effective. they say its a lifetime item.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Houdini
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Posts: 1975


VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144

Allen, TX


« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2016, 06:49:16 AM »

I tried WW,  I have a temp gauge on my bike, 205° without WW, 205° with WW, it it made no difference on the temp so I never used it again.  Apparently my water is wet enough....

YMMV.
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?

pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2016, 07:08:21 AM »

No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Houdini
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Posts: 1975


VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144

Allen, TX


« Reply #7 on: April 06, 2016, 08:22:56 AM »

No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.

Exactly my point, put in the proper amount of water and coolant and skip the money sucking gimmicks that have no real payoff.
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?

98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13484


South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: April 06, 2016, 11:50:18 AM »

No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.

Exactly my point, put in the proper amount of water and coolant and skip the money sucking gimmicks that have no real payoff.

suggest u both read up on Nucleate boiling that goes on inside the cylinder head. the additives and evans cooling reduce greatly and/or eliminate it.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #9 on: April 06, 2016, 02:09:10 PM »

I tried WW,  I have a temp gauge on my bike, 205° without WW, 205° with WW, it it made no difference on the temp so I never used it again.  Apparently my water is wet enough....

YMMV.
No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.
No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.

Exactly my point, put in the proper amount of water and coolant and skip the money sucking gimmicks that have no real payoff.
I'll call it over-wrenching, like over tightening will eventually break something or cause something to break. Fix something on a piece of rotating equipment that is engineered to last for 400K miles or more with little maintenance requirements? Why would you want it to run cooler than manufacturer specs, so it will last longer?
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If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
Houdini
Member
*****
Posts: 1975


VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144

Allen, TX


« Reply #10 on: April 06, 2016, 03:02:05 PM »

I tried WW,  I have a temp gauge on my bike, 205° without WW, 205° with WW, it it made no difference on the temp so I never used it again.  Apparently my water is wet enough....

YMMV.
No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.
No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.

Exactly my point, put in the proper amount of water and coolant and skip the money sucking gimmicks that have no real payoff.
I'll call it over-wrenching, like over tightening will eventually break something or cause something to break. Fix something on a piece of rotating equipment that is engineered to last for 400K miles or more with little maintenance requirements? Why would you want it to run cooler than manufacturer specs, so it will last longer?

Eli, all that stuff does is suck $11 out of your wallet.  I fell for the hype when riding my IS through Dallas traffic in the heat of summer, I assumed if the stuff worked it might make my sitting idling more comfortable.  My temp gauge didn't budge one ° and it didn't make the idling in traffic any more comfortable.  So I have one less theoretical bubble next to my bikes head, so what if it doesn't change the bike or my temp.
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?

Red Diamond
Member
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Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #11 on: April 06, 2016, 03:39:17 PM »

That was a cheap lesson Chuck, others have spent a lot more and still spending. I learned mine for cheap as an industrial mechanic at a major chemical plant. We did what is commonly called "preventive maintenance", usually followed up by a break down of the same equipment caused by dirt grit or some other contaminant entering a bearing. Lesson: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #12 on: April 07, 2016, 09:13:05 AM »

No matter what you put in the cooling system, the thermostat will still open at the same temperature, so the coolant temp in the motor will be the same. Running without "anti freeze", may also means running without the common benefits, corrosion prohibitors, etc.


Exactly my point, put in the proper amount of water and coolant and skip the money sucking gimmicks that have no real payoff.


suggest u both read up on Nucleate boiling that goes on inside the cylinder head. the additives and evans cooling reduce greatly and/or eliminate it.


I got you CA,, I understand that there is a better heat transfer from the metal to the coolant at a micro scale, I'll just not convinced that in our motors, at their efficiency, that it means anything.

BPP,, the only downside I can see with this product, as is does provide corrosion protection, it that there is no freeze protection.  I understand in San Antone, it is a rare event, but I remember a winter in the late eighties where there was about a foot of snow on the ground, I was about twenty miles south of town, just wire fences to mark the roads, and with drifting, you didn't want to drive for awhile. Of course it was all dissappeared in two days... still


http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
big poppa pump
Member
*****
Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #13 on: April 07, 2016, 09:39:55 AM »

I appreciate everybody's input on this topic. After some additional research, I've decided to go with a 50/50 mix + water wetter. I'll try this out in stop'n'go traffic in the next few days and see how it works out.
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

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