New to 98 Valkyrie New to Forum Observations, Problems, Solutions

[Johnparcamper]

I bought a 1998 Valkyrie 1500CW about 3 weeks ago.  The bike turned 18K miles as I was riding it home. 

Had a cold morning a few days after I bought it, I think it was like mid 40's and the battery wouldn't start it.  Previous owner told me about this so I wasn't upset the timing was just bad I couldn't ride it to work. 

Turn Signals were basically hacked into the wiring harness.  They were Very small and I assume not easy to see, what I would consider more of a marker light.  They were placed where the reflectors were on the Radiator cover and the rear fender.  Which Brings up the rear fender.  It was chopped off just below the tail light.  Consequently in order to put the Turn Signals back on the Rear of the bike I had to replace the rear half fender.  I would appreciate it if anyone knows the paint codes for the Maroon and Cream two tone that Honda used in 98.  The Fender I bought was black so I will have to have it painted.  I cannibalized the Wiring harness off the fender I bought and soldered my plug onto that harness. 

I only found out that the Front turn signals are connected in the headlight because I couldn't trace the wires from the radiator marker lights and knew that the Turn Signal indicator wasn't working so I opened the head light and found the Turn Signal connections intact, but the Indicator wires were chopped off and just hanging bare with a section missing.  The bottom line is I had to solder the indicator wires back together, but all I had to do was get and plug in the front turn signals. 

All of the brake fluid is a dark amber color and considering the age of the bike I intend to Bleed/Flush it with clean synthetic fluid.  I bought and installed speed bleeders for this. 

I like a windshield on my cruiser, so I bought and installed a switchblade 2 up.  For me that particular windshield is too tall for this bike.  I haven't looked into other options, but I will eventually get something shorter.  If it is dry I have ridden to work in 28 degree weather.  The way I had to mount this windshield and still be able to get it on and off, I had to mount it at least 4" above the light which will let in a lot of weather.  I like the fact that I can take it off but I don't care for the fit.

Due to the Age of the Bike I thought it would be a good Idea to replace the Anti Freeze.  I always assume this type of stuff is not done on a bike of the this age especially when the Brakes don't appear to ever have been bled.  When I first bought the bike I checked the coolant level and it was fine.  When I went to change the coolant the tank was empty.  I believe the reason for this is the lower hose clamp was not tight.  For that matter the upper hose clamp on the other side wasn't very tight either.  I used a full Gallon of Prestone 50/50 read mix but the overflow tank was too full.  I couldn't get the RADIATOR CAP off so I assumed it would suck the coolant from the tank.  WRONG, the bike just overheated, at least the indicator light worked for that.  I dropped a screw putting the right turn signal on and it went behind the Radiator and landed on a plate.  While fishing it out I noticed a very small screw in the side of the radiator cap.  I removed the screw and what do you know the radiator cap came right off.  I used a plastic hand siphon to get the overflow tank to the right level. 

Shock absorbers:  My biggest problem to date.  I thought that the bike was riding a bit stiff so I decided to check the settings of the rear shocks.  Both were set all the way up.  I dropped the left side down two clicks, no problem.  The right side did not look right and wouldn't turn one way so I turned it the other way.  It clicked down but it didn't sound or feel right so I kept going.  Once I got it all the way down it would not turn the other way to go back up.  I ended up tearing the shock up.  I put Progressive 412 Series Shocks on it they are more old school and right now are set at the minimum.  I will adjust them when I get a chance to ride more. 

While I was warming the bike up trying to get it to draw antifreeze I noticed a dripping from under the gas tank.  I initially thought it might be antifreeze but it turned out to be fuel.  Although the fuel petcock still seems to work, it will shut the gas off, it is leaking like a sieve when the gas is turned on.  Looks like a rebuild of the Petcock is next on the agenda. 

I wanted to get any air out of the coolant system so I took the bike on a 10 mile test ride, leaking petcock and all.  When I came back and pulled into the garage I left it running and the cooling fan came on.  To me that is a good thing since I wasn't sure it worked.  I was somewhat surprised that it shut off when I turn the motor off. 

Maybe someday I will actually get to ride this bike.  So far it has not lived up to my expectations. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Sounds like you bought a hack job that was not cared for very well.

First forget synthetic brake fluid unless you are well versed at a complete clean out of the system

Next, if the fuel is dripping from the weep hole in the petcock valve body than yes, you need a rebuild or better yet a replacement with a quality valve.  Sometimes the big nut securing the valve to the tank  just needs tightening.  Read about tank removal before doing it or you will break stuff .  Same thing for side cover removal, don't break the tabs.

Read as much as you can about vacuum leaks, I would imagine the intake clamps are loose, may need some vacuum lines


Read here, tech board and shop talk and learn
For antifreeze just get Prestone pre mix 150K mile formula.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Your fuel leak is likely not the petcock but the fuel rail o-rings. Your bike doesn't have many miles for its age and has likely been sitting a lot. Many times they will quit leaking after they get fuel on them for a while. Also be careful that it's not one of the floats sticking. Because of the layout of the engine a hydrolock can occur.

[signart]

Color code is under left side cover, lot of good it will do. While it's off take to paint supply store and have them scope it OUTDOORS for exact match. Most can mix a spray bomb in the two colors and the clear.

[98valk]

make sure the anti-freeze is silicant free.

All brake fluid is synthetic, don't believe the marketing hype. use dot 4 with the highest wet boiling point u can fine. ignore the dry boiling point which is only needed to be known if running on a race track, has no correlation to a street bike.

[John Schmidt]

As 98Valk said, check the coolant type you're using. Regular automotive 50/50 mix as you mentioned generally can't be used. The silicants contained will ruin the water pump bushings. There is automotive coolant that can be used but you have to really read the labels, same for engine oil. No oil with any friction reducing additives should be used. As for the front turn/run lights, they're mounted on the forks.

[gordonv]

Welcome to the Forum! You are off to a very good start. You had a couple of problems, but seems you have already found the proper solutions to them (rad cap for example).

Please don't shoot the horse first, it can be healed. It sounds like it has been major hacked. It will take time, but if you do the right things first, you will be in the saddle soon.

If you don't want to ask first, search is a very good feature.

If you haven't already learned about, the read up about;
Hydro lock
rear splines lube
chock

some others have already been touched upon, and are very important. Do you have a service manual yet? PDF found here, then get a paper copy.
http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Me, I like being a "hunter", and I hunt ebay all the time (everyday) looking for deals to buy things for my hobby (Valkyrie), and try to buy them. Keep looking for a used Valk T windshield, get the right one for your bike. Also our classified section is very help full, but please, remember to put the important data in your post, wanted/for sale and for what bike (selling, pictures help a lot too).

You might want to figure out how to post pictures. Get a photobucket acct, upload some pictures. I place pictures I post onto forums in a folder called Forum, so I know not to delete them. Here is a simple post on how to, go down to Gryphn Riders post.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,75153.0.html

[Chrisj CMA]

As 98Valk said, check the coolant type you're using. Regular automotive 50/50 mix as you mentioned generally can't be used. The silicants contained will ruin the water pump bushings. There is automotive coolant that can be used but you have to really read the labels, same for engine oil. No oil with any friction reducing additives should be used. As for the front turn/run lights, they're mounted on the forks.

John, have you really looked lately.  If you wanted antifreeze with silicates I think it would be harder than you think to find.  Most all are silicate free these days, but for sure Prestone 50/50 premix is silicate free

[Johnparcamper]

OK let's start up with background on me.  I am a mainframe programmer by Trade, and a Jack of all trades by the Will of God. 

This is my 4th Motorcycle in the past 3 or 4 years.  I started off with an 85 VMAX with 15K miles.  Did a massive amount of work to it mostly cosmetic and had to use a dead blow hammer to adjust the rear frame so that the Passenger backrest/Luggage rack would fit on it.  I drilled the baffles and had it sounding like a Corvette.  I don't remember why but the clutch failed, and I had to rebuild the master Cylinder.  A young man @ the Iron Pony Parts desk told me to crack the hose connection slightly to let the air out up top.  That tip got me back on the road.  The bike was a wobbler at high speed so I traded it in on a 2006 Yamaha FJR AE ABS.  The bike was awesome Power, handling, heated grips, electric windshield, bags.  It wasn't flawless but it was close.  The clip on handle bars and the small grips were its undoing.  The throttle would put my hand to sleep before I could get to work.  I sold it last weekend.  Last year I decided I wanted to try a cruiser so I bought and 06 Honda VTX 1300.  This bike was even more basic than the 85 VMAX.  To make a long story short it had rust in the tank from sitting so much.  I disassembled and cleaned the carb, several times before I figured out the rust in the tank.  I removed the Air Injection into the exhaust and that cut down on the backfiring.  The VTX is currently for sale as well. 

I like the Valkyrie because I see it as a cross between the FJR and the VTX.  The torque out of the hole is just incredible.  It doesn't have the top end of the FJR but it has the ride comfort of the VTX, a little more probably with the new shocks.  That remains to be seen. 

Back to the problems @ hand. 

Fuel Leak:  I have the alternator cover off of the left side and I can see the bottom of the Petcock.  The fuel appears to be coming out of the weep hole.  It only does this when the bike is running and it does it bad.  When I shut the bike off the leak stops even if I leave the gas turned on.  Stuck or Gas soaked carburetor float?  Isn't there an overflow drain and wouldn't it be dumping fuel onto the ground through the drain?  The fuel rail?  I guess I will get a look @ that when I get the tank off which I have to do to get to the Air Cleaner?   Really I have to take the tank off to service the Air Cleaner, What Idiot thought that up?  Anyhow to service the petcock I have to take the tank off which may reveal some things.  I am assuming the "Fuel Rail' is a metal distribution system to the Carburetors.  ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION:  I put a whole bottle of Slick 50 Fuel system in the Fuel tank when I filled it up. 

Synthetic Brake fluid:  My VW Passat GLS Wagon called for DOT4 Brake Fluid, I used DOT 3/4 Valvoline Synthetic.   My thinking is that Synthetic is ALWAYS BETTER.  I slip a small clear flexible tubing over the end if the bleeders on a vehicle I route the tubing so that it is vertical to the bleeder.  With the speed bleeders I should be able to open the bleeder 1/4 turn and I could stay at the reservoir and just make sure it stays full but I wasn't to see what comes out of the business end of the system.  The Fluid in the handlebars is a dark amber color.  To me this leads me to believe that it is original equipment.  I am a firm believer that brakes should be bled at least every 2 years on a car or truck and every year on a motorcycle.  I don't typical brake hard, but if I have to I wan the brakes to work properly.  I am puzzled by the statement that all Brake Fluid is Synthetic.  I think what is being said, is that at this point in the life of the bike going synthetic with the brake fluid isn't going to make one bit of difference.  The bottom line is I will buy straight DOT4 brake fluid and If I can get synthetic I will. 

Antifreeze:  I have a Clymer Repair Manual, it said to get Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze it did go further to say do not use an Anti Freeze with Silicate Inhibitors.  I read the label it said Ethylene Glycol, but it didn't say anything about Silicate Inhibitors. 

OIL:  I use AMSOIL Synthetic in all my vehicles.  I ran it in the FJR and have it in the VTX, my Truck and my Car.  The Truck has 180K on it and had 175K on it when I bought it.  The VW has 135K on it and had 115K on it when I bought it.  I use the correct oil based on the vehicle.  AMSOIL makes a blend for pretty much any internal combustion engine.  I typically K&N Oil Filters. 

I really appreciate all of your replies and advice.  May the Good Lord watch over and protect all of you in your travels. 

[..]

OK let's start up with background on me.  I am a mainframe programmer by Trade, and a Jack of all trades by the Will of God.  

This is my 4th Motorcycle in the past 3 or 4 years.  I started off with an 85 VMAX with 15K miles.  Did a massive amount of work to it mostly cosmetic and had to use a dead blow hammer to adjust the rear frame so that the Passenger backrest/Luggage rack would fit on it.  I drilled the baffles and had it sounding like a Corvette.  I don't remember why but the clutch failed, and I had to rebuild the master Cylinder.  A young man @ the Iron Pony Parts desk told me to crack the hose connection slightly to let the air out up top.  That tip got me back on the road.  The bike was a wobbler at high speed so I traded it in on a 2006 Yamaha FJR AE ABS.  The bike was awesome Power, handling, heated grips, electric windshield, bags.  It wasn't flawless but it was close.  The clip on handle bars and the small grips were its undoing.  The throttle would put my hand to sleep before I could get to work.  I sold it last weekend.  Last year I decided I wanted to try a cruiser so I bought and 06 Honda VTX 1300.  This bike was even more basic than the 85 VMAX.  To make a long story short it had rust in the tank from sitting so much.  I disassembled and cleaned the carb, several times before I figured out the rust in the tank.  I removed the Air Injection into the exhaust and that cut down on the backfiring.  The VTX is currently for sale as well.  

I like the Valkyrie because I see it as a cross between the FJR and the VTX.  The torque out of the hole is just incredible.  It doesn't have the top end of the FJR but it has the ride comfort of the VTX, a little more probably with the new shocks.  That remains to be seen.  

Back to the problems @ hand.  

Fuel Leak:  I have the alternator cover off of the left side and I can see the bottom of the Petcock.  The fuel appears to be coming out of the weep hole.  It only does this when the bike is running and it does it bad.  When I shut the bike off the leak stops even if I leave the gas turned on.  Stuck or Gas soaked carburetor float?  Isn't there an overflow drain and wouldn't it be dumping fuel onto the ground through the drain?  The fuel rail?  I guess I will get a look @ that when I get the tank off which I have to do to get to the Air Cleaner?   Really I have to take the tank off to service the Air Cleaner, What Idiot thought that up?  Anyhow to service the petcock I have to take the tank off which may reveal some things.  I am assuming the "Fuel Rail' is a metal distribution system to the Carburetors.  ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION:  I put a whole bottle of Slick 50 Fuel system in the Fuel tank when I filled it up.  

Synthetic Brake fluid:  My VW Passat GLS Wagon called for DOT4 Brake Fluid, I used DOT 3/4 Valvoline Synthetic.   My thinking is that Synthetic is ALWAYS BETTER.  I slip a small clear flexible tubing over the end if the bleeders on a vehicle I route the tubing so that it is vertical to the bleeder.  With the speed bleeders I should be able to open the bleeder 1/4 turn and I could stay at the reservoir and just make sure it stays full but I wasn't to see what comes out of the business end of the system.  The Fluid in the handlebars is a dark amber color.  To me this leads me to believe that it is original equipment.  I am a firm believer that brakes should be bled at least every 2 years on a car or truck and every year on a motorcycle.  I don't typical brake hard, but if I have to I wan the brakes to work properly.  I am puzzled by the statement that all Brake Fluid is Synthetic.  I think what is being said, is that at this point in the life of the bike going synthetic with the brake fluid isn't going to make one bit of difference.  The bottom line is I will buy straight DOT4 brake fluid and If I can get synthetic I will.  

Antifreeze:  I have a Clymer Repair Manual, it said to get Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze it did go further to say do not use an Anti Freeze with Silicate Inhibitors.  I read the label it said Ethylene Glycol, but it didn't say anything about Silicate Inhibitors.  

OIL:  I use AMSOIL Synthetic in all my vehicles.  I ran it in the FJR and have it in the VTX, my Truck and my Car.  The Truck has 180K on it and had 175K on it when I bought it.  The VW has 135K on it and had 115K on it when I bought it.  I use the correct oil based on the vehicle.  AMSOIL makes a blend for pretty much any internal combustion engine.  I typically K&N Oil Filters.  

I really appreciate all of your replies and advice.  May the Good Lord watch over and protect all of you in your travels.  

Straight talking John.

Take a look at how many posts a person has put on this forum and then LISTEN to what they are telling you because THEY KNOW what they are talking about re Valkyries.


Now if you want to tell us the best way to look after a Valkyrie have at it cause some may will quickly stop trying to help you.

[gordonv]

Confirmed petcock fuel leak, not the fuel rail. You seem to have that side right, it connects the bank of carbs, uses O-rings, and can shrink when the fuel dries up. Add fuel, and they swell again, sealing the leak in the future.

Your petcock diaphragm is most likely broken, allowing fuel to leak into the petcock, and out the weep hole. Repair or replace with a normal manual one, 2 schools of thought. I like the OEM.

[98valk]

“polyethylene glycol”  is the base stock for almost all brake fluids. PG is a synthetic fluid.
just about all motor oils on the shelf today are a semi-synthetic oil. even group III oil such as Rotella 5w40 are dino base oil stock but due to the castrol vs mobil court case since it has such a high level of processing it can be called a synthetic.
Like I said "synthetic" today is a marketing term. all it tells u is that it is not a dino oil base stock without additional processing.

a straight unprocessed dino oil cannot meet the latest motor oil specs and/or brake oil specs.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Confirmed petcock fuel leak, not the fuel rail. You seem to have that side right, it connects the bank of carbs, uses O-rings, and can shrink when the fuel dries up. Add fuel, and they swell again, sealing the leak in the future.

Your petcock diaphragm is most likely broken, allowing fuel to leak into the petcock, and out the weep hole. Repair or replace with a normal manual one, 2 schools of thought. I like the OEM.

I agree. It sounds like a cover set is in order. I also like the OEM. But I hedge my bets a little with a Dan Marc.

[Johnparcamper]

Tank is off pretty much the same set up as the VTX except for having to unhook the Fuel Selector.   And it is harder to get to the stuff to unhook the tank.  Based on the way everything came off and the condition of the air filter I don't think the tank has been off the bike.  I am thinking about rolling the tank onto its side and rebuilding the Petcock while it is still on the Bike. 

OK maybe somebody has been under that tank there is a small Aluminum Canister tied in between the petcock and the Fuel Rail T.  It is only about 1.5" long maybe 3/4" in diameter and has a gnarled cap. I am assuming this is a Fuel Filter.  The clamp on the Fuel rail side is a screw type hose clamp, so I believe this is an add on. 

I read about the Hydro Lock as recommended.  So for the sake of the environment, I.E. Fuel evaporating on pavement, we now let the carb pour enough gas into a cylinder to lock up the cylinder and cause damage to the motor. 

I haven't gotten to the rear spines lube and Chock but I will. 

Just a side note, don't take anything I say personal because it isn't.

[Bone]

Welcome to the group. If you haven't noticed above click on Shoptalk a lot of good reading.

I have a black and chrome 98 Tourer.

[Steel cowboy]

Hi John, sounds like your on the right track. As far as the petcock the stock one is vacuum operate. It will let fuel flow when there is a vacuum hose off cylinder 6 installed. No vacumm no fuel delivery. They do make a pepcock that does not need vacuum to make it flow made by Pingle. But just to play it safe, do what a lot of us do and that is turn the fuel valve off after a ride. Good luck and ride safe.

[Hook#3287]

Congratulations and welcome to the board  A lot of learning happening here.

OK maybe somebody has been under that tank there is a small Aluminum Canister tied in between the petcock and the Fuel Rail T.  It is only about 1.5" long maybe 3/4" in diameter and has a gnarled cap. I am assuming this is a Fuel Filter.  The clamp on the Fuel rail side is a screw type hose clamp, so I believe this is an add on.  

Not OEM.

Taking the tank off takes some patience, but once you do it a few times, it's not that bad.

I always remove the tank and set it up side down on blankets, to remove the petcock.  I, too, like the OEM petcock and have rebuilt several of them.  Easy to do, but also easy to put back together wrong, so I'd suggest taking pictures before disassembly.

Their are four things that have to happen for Hydro-Lock damage.  Petcock leaking, float valve stuck, same cylinders intake valve open and the starter gearing has to be in a certain position.  Some believe that the petcock leaking is not a necessary part, as there may be enough gas in the lines.  You can have Hydro-Lock and not have damage.  I don't think anyone knows what the difference is that causes some to blow up and other don't.   Your petcock is leaking, but as designed, from the weep hole, time to rebuild or replace.

I added a inline fuel filter at one time, but I removed it because if I let the tank go to reserve, it would starve the filter and it would take time to refill, not good while rolling.

While rear splines are important, I would be more concerned with the bike sitting issues.  Carb jets, valves and floats, anything rubber, fluids.

When you change out the rear tire is when you should do the rear end service., unless you're the type that can't let it go till then.

Have patience with her and take the time to learn her ways and you'll have a long and enjoyable relationship.

[falconbrother]

Forget synthetic brake fluid.  The seals in the Valkrie are designed for DOT3/4.  DOT 5 (synthetic) will never mix with 3 or 4.  If they ever get placed in the same physical space they turn to salad dressing and nasty up everything.  Just get some DOT 4 and be happy. 

[F6Dave]

Here's a post I wrote on the F6B board.  It applies to Valkyrie coolant as well:

I bought my first Valkyrie new in 1998.  At that time most of the coolants sold in auto and discount stores were the traditional green type that used silicates for corrosion inhibitors.  Before my first coolant change I did some online research, and found numerous stories from owners who changed their  Wing or Valkyrie's coolant, and discovered water pump leaks shortly thereafter.  Apparently the silicates in those old coolants damaged the seals in GL1500 water pumps.  The clear lesson was that GL1500s needed silicate-free coolant.

Silicate-free coolants weren't that common back then, but there was one brand widely available even in places like Walmart.  It was Havoline Extended Life, a Dex-Cool formula that used Organic Acid Technology (OAT) in place of silicates.  This became a favorite of many Goldwing and Valkyrie owners.  I used it in my '98 Valkyrie from the beginning, and after 18 years and 174,000 miles there have been no problems.  The same can be said for my '99 Valkyrie with nearly 100,000 miles.

I realize there were some issues in the early days of Dex-Cool, but those were mostly due to an ingredient (2-EHA) that can damage silicone gaskets in some older vehicles.  Manufacturers have changed gasket materials to deal with that, and the formula has almost become a standard in the aftermarket.  Few brands mention it on the label as there is a GM licensing fee, but I read in an SAE paper that the latest yellow-green Prestone is actually a Dex-Cool clone.  In 2011 Ford began a phase in of the formula for all its vehicles.  My new F150 with the 5 liter Coyote V8 came filled with their orange version of Dex-Cool.

If you would rather use something that meets the exact spec, Japanese manufacturers specify a phosphated OAT coolant with no borates or 2-EHA.  You can buy this in pre-mixed quarts at a Honda dealer for a ridiculous price.  Or you can buy the same stuff in gallons from a Honda auto dealer for a much lower price.  In fact just about any Japanese car dealer sells it under their own brand name.  I've read that nearly all of them are manufactured by a company called CCI.

In the aftermarket there aren't many choices.  The only one I know of is Valvoline's Zerex Asian Vehicle Antifreeze/Coolant.  It comes in red or blue so you can better match the color of the original fill.  There is no industry standardization of coolant colors.

One other product worth mentioning is Ford's Specialty Green coolant.  This is essentially the same stuff as Mazda's FL-22, an Asian-spec coolant, and was used in many Fords from 2009-2012.  The likely reason is the shared engine technology between Ford and Mazda.  What makes Ford's coolant unique is that it's available as a concentrate.  That's important if you want to flush your system (with distilled water!) during the coolant change.  A good bit of that water will remain in the engine, diluting the concentration below 50/50 when you add premix.  A concentrate lets you adjust for this.

[Ramie]

Here's a like to a cover set for you petcock, should fix your leak.
http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=44481&str=2&mdl=&mdy=

[Paladin528]

In Canada, Canadian Tire sell a Honda Specific Silicate free Coolant.  It is BLUE in colour and works well in the Valk.  I have been using it since I got the bike and changed all the fluids.  Price is the same as the prestone.  In comes in bot concentrated and premixed formulations. 

[Solorider]

Welcome John,

Welcome to Valks

I recently dragged a 1999 valk out of a barn, been sitting over four years, then flooded in Katrina then sat in the leaky barn for another 5 years......felt sorry for the old girl !  paid  $1,500.00 ( Got robbed) for her after reading about the valks life span. Only has 30,000 miles on Od....Had her for about six months now, I have built bikes all my life and I have done some basket cases !  She will never be as shinny as any of my Harleys !! but she will run ! engine compression was perfect ! stripped engine down and it appears to have survived all the water ! Cleaned all valves, rods, soaked in Marvel mystery oil ! she just needed some slight cleaning inside engine !  set all parts to spec's ...stripped her down to the fram ! Power coat perfect !  Rebuilt carbs, (red eye parts) de-smogged her, flushed all fluids,  tranny shifts smoothy now, kicked her in gear and rolled her through all gears ...engine turns over nicly..( not started yet !! )  dumped and flushed the rust from the tank put a Kreme tank liner in new petcock, Ran complete electrical system domestics, replaced, all bad switches ,fixed all shorts ! When hooked to battery she now turns over, smoothly, spent this past Saturday polishing the rear rim, checking drive spline a day per side ! while rebuilding the rear stuck caliper, and changing wheel bearings I found a wheel bearing tool at harbor freight that worked great for pulling the caliper cups out smoothly !!! Air would have never worked !! An unknown use for this tool !! the seals seam melted ..should clean up nicely ! 

Well guys let me stop rambling !  After all it is a Project bike !   I do it for the love of bikes !   I have build Harleys/ Triumphs / BMWs  .... One thing about Honda they are cheaper to get parts for then Harley !    lol....OH and they seem child like to work on,,,  Very simple machines !  even the engines and simple transmissions !  Can't wait to put a personal paint job on the old girl ~!   FUN, FUN



I always fix my friends Valks ...just never owned one !   

Chow         

[mike72903]

Welcome John,

Welcome to Valks

I recently dragged a 1999 valk out of a barn, been sitting over four years, then flooded in Katrina then sat in the leaky barn for another 5 years......felt sorry for the old girl !  paid  $1,500.00 ( Got robbed) for her after reading about the valks life span. Only has 30,000 miles on Od....Had her for about six months now, I have built bikes all my life and I have done some basket cases !  She will never be as shinny as any of my Harleys !! but she will run ! engine compression was perfect ! stripped engine down and it appears to have survived all the water ! Cleaned all valves, rods, soaked in Marvel mystery oil ! she just needed some slight cleaning inside engine !  set all parts to spec's ...stripped her down to the fram ! Power coat perfect !  Rebuilt carbs, (red eye parts) de-smogged her, flushed all fluids,  tranny shifts smoothy now, kicked her in gear and rolled her through all gears ...engine turns over nicly..( not started yet !! )  dumped and flushed the rust from the tank put a Kreme tank liner in new petcock, Ran complete electrical system domestics, replaced, all bad switches ,fixed all shorts ! When hooked to battery she now turns over, smoothly, spent this past Saturday polishing the rear rim, checking drive spline a day per side ! while rebuilding the rear stuck caliper, and changing wheel bearings I found a wheel bearing tool at harbor freight that worked great for pulling the caliper cups out smoothly !!! Air would have never worked !! An unknown use for this tool !! the seals seam melted ..should clean up nicely ! 

Well guys let me stop rambling !  After all it is a Project bike !   I do it for the love of bikes !   I have build Harleys/ Triumphs / BMWs  .... One thing about Honda they are cheaper to get parts for then Harley !    lol....OH and they seem child like to work on,,,  Very simple machines !  even the engines and simple transmissions !  Can't wait to put a personal paint job on the old girl ~!   FUN, FUN



I always fix my friends Valks ...just never owned one !   

Chow         

you REALLY love bikes.   

[Solorider]

I sure do Ci  !

 I have been Building +Riding bikes sense the mid 60s because I couldn't afford a car !  Now in my 60s I only own three which 2 are Harley show bikes, I have built, but I ride them, I ride to Shreveport a visit a buddy ... he owns a screaming eagle Fatboy ... My Fatboy out chromes his lol...

We been talking about ridin up Arkansas with fly rods, to give those trout a run for their money ! .....or that rally on the pig trail one of these days !  Maybe when I get this Valk beast fixed up !  We will cruise up your way !!!! 

I want to make a trip to Oregon on one these bikes  maybe the Valkyrie ~! while I'm still young !! 

[Johnparcamper]

Ok I did some Further investigation on Anti Freeze and the new 50/50 Prestone now uses Phosphates instead of Silicates for corrosion protection.  I'll stick with what I have already refilled with.  Honda antifreeze also uses Phosphates to fight corrosion and the automotive antifreeze that they use is the same antifreeze that is used in Honda motorcycles. 

I rebuilt the petcock today and when I took it apart the screws weren't tight at all.  This leads me to believe that someone else has had it apart and is probably the reason it is leaking or it could have just been the loose screws but I doubt it.  No More Gas Leak. 

All of the brake fluid has been completely flushed out of the Front & Rear Brakes and the clutch.  The rear took the longest to flush probably because the reservoir was so small.  The Clutch reservoir was all gunked up and I completely drained it and cleaned it out with Q Tips and paper towels.  I used the paper towels to soak up what brake fluid was left in the reservoir.  I then Flushed the Clutch slave cylinder until the fluid came out clear for a while.  I had to lean the bike over on the jack in order to get the clutch reservoir level enough to fill it up properly. 

I expected the Front brake reservoir to be just as bad as the clutch but it wasn't even close.  The fluid was old and dark so I just flushed it through the left Caliper until it was almost empty.  I filled it with fresh Dot 4 and Flushed it just like the back and the clutch until it ran clear for a while.  The right front went the quickest.  All in all I used just under a pint of DOT 4 Brake fluid I bought @ Iron Pony.  I followed the consensus on the Brake Fluid.  I didn't buy Synthetic. 

Thanks for all the comments and advice the bike is back in operation without the gas leak and I feel better about the brakes and the clutch.

On thing I think I should say.  I put Speed Bleeders in all the Brake calipers and the Clutch Slave Cylinder.  So Basically all I had to do was remove the cap open the bleeder 1/4 Turn and pump the control for whatever I was bleeding.  I just had to keep refilling the reservoir until I was satisfied and then move to the next Item.  The stock caps won't fit over the nipple of the speed bleeder and the caps that come with them are just that caps with no tail to keep from losing them.  The time savings was worth it to me. 

[Hook#3287]

I found a wheel bearing tool at harbor freight that worked great for pulling the caliper cups out smoothly !!! Air would have never worked !! An unknown use for this tool !!

Solorider, got any more info on this tool?

[vanagon40]

. . . . All in all I used just under a pint of DOT 4 Brake fluid I bought @ Iron Pony.  I followed the consensus on the Brake Fluid.  I didn't buy Synthetic. . . .

Sorry to jump in a week late, but let me clear up some confusion. ALL brake fluid is synthetic. DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 3/4 are all interchangeable. Whether labeled synthetic or not, brake fluid is synthetic (made of chemicals and not oils or other natural substances). DOT 5 (silicon based) is sometimes confused with synthetic and does not mix with DOT 3 or 4.

PS, welcome to the forum.

[mike72903]

I sure do Ci  !

 I have been Building +Riding bikes sense the mid 60s because I couldn't afford a car !  Now in my 60s I only own three which 2 are Harley show bikes, I have built, but I ride them, I ride to Shreveport a visit a buddy ... he owns a screaming eagle Fatboy ... My Fatboy out chromes his lol...

We been talking about ridin up Arkansas with fly rods, to give those trout a run for their money ! .....or that rally on the pig trail one of these days !  Maybe when I get this Valk beast fixed up !  We will cruise up your way !!!! 

I want to make a trip to Oregon on one these bikes  maybe the Valkyrie ~! while I'm still young !! 

My daughter lives in Oregon and I've been desperate to ride up there ever since I got my 98 tourer about 3 yrs ago.  Stars just haven't aligned yet. They better hurry though, I'm 70 in August.

[Solorider]

Hey Hook# 3287

The tool I used to remove the super stuck Caliber Cup is a Harbor freight wheel bearing pulling tool,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27YCUMzKcfE

Just insert the biggest size end bit into the caliper cup  hold with two wrenched & tighten ..this secures the tool in the caliper cup and I hammer the caliber on my work bench and the cup just pops out ,  slick use for a bearing puller !!!

After the caliper's are out I remove both seals with an ice pick, then take my needle nose pliers and grab two pieces of the sheet brillo synthetic and wrap it in a circle and insert it into the caliper hole and twist in a circle to shine the caliper seating areas

it cleans the seating areas without wearing away the cast

Oh I use real brillo to cleans the stainless caliper cups

I have done a ton of them and after new seals ...not one has ever leaked under pressure   


Good luck..... it works every time !

Solorider

 

[Solorider]

CI_Borg

Where in Oregon does she live, I just flew out there a couple months ago to look around / drink some great wine and to visit a brother I have in bend Or.  Hell he's 4 years older then me and he rock / mountain climbs with no ropes...now that takes balls !!!  and he said I was always the crazy one !   

When we were in our teens my brother and me always talked about travelling across country on bikes ...( Pre- easy rider)  I had my triumph 650 Bonneville and he bought a tiger 750, I stripped them apart and modified them internally for the long haul !!!  We were ready to roll ...then his girl friend told my brother its the bike or her !!! He sold the bike and I took out on my own.... I spent the next 15 years on the road with my bike ..working then moving on.... Visited everywhere !! met tons of great people and had some great times !

After 10 years gone .. I rode back into my home town on that same Triumph ... and spent 3 days telling my brother about the many things I saw.....Two weeks later he packed up and moved to Oregon

He regrets not going with me on the first run.....

I offered to fly him here to New Orleans, I would let him use my 2003 Harley screaming eagle deuce the 100 anniversary model gold and black with 24ct gold inlay and I take my 2004 Fatboy with a baker OD-6 transmission deep overdrive 6 speed and we would travel to either Panama Beach Fla. rally (Thunder beach) or we could head to Daytona beach bike week his choice. 

He's thinking......again what is there to think about !!!!!! LOL

Ci .....Oregon bound would be fun !!!!! Lets keep in touch....while I rebuild this beast....and lets plan a trip to Oregon !  Fun ride !!!!!