Importance of the float valve spring?

[Hook#3287]

So it's a slow winter night on the vrcc 

Due to a recent post, these questions have been gnawing at me.

What is the purpose of the float valve spring?

Is the amount of resistance of the spring in the float valve of any importance?

Is a little resistence enough?

Can anyone answer?

[hubcapsc]

If you search around on the tech board a whole bunch of people
think it is pretty important.

Some people think it is a waste of time to get into the carbs
and not replace all of the float valves...

Some guys even have a scheme to soup up the float valve springs...

The float valves are in the chain of stuff that can go wrong
and end you up with hydro-lock...

-Mike

[oldsmokey]

I would consider its purpose is to serve as a dampener against float bounce. (trailering, rough terrain etc.) Level of fuel in the bowl with a with smooth operating non-deformed float assembly should be able to provide sufficient pressure against needle to the seat. If spring were collapsed it should still hold needle to seat, if fuel level were too high it would pass through the over flow tube and still not get by seat. Many carbs have no spring loaded inlet needles. Is the viton tip perfect after all these years? Is it getting fatigued? Is there a minuscule piece of crud going to cause a problem? If its open, I replace them. Is there a need to open it up??

[98valk]

Mike Nixon – noted CBX and vintage Honda guru says:

    “I don’t arbitrarily replace parts, only what is needed. The factory float valves often last longer than the motorcycle. They’re also expensive. But, I will not use aftermarket float valves, and here is why. That’s chrome plating that is coming off this aftermarket float valve. The factory ones never do that.”
http://www.randakksblog.com/more-problems-with-aftermarket-float-valves/


 Longevity is an issue also. Whereas the factory part has proven to last 20-30 years,
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/float_valves.html

CBX hydrolock
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/hole_in_one.html

[The emperor has no clothes]

So it's a slow winter night on the vrcc 

Due to a recent post, these questions have been gnawing at me.

What is the purpose of the float valve spring?

Is the amount of resistance of the spring in the float valve of any importance?

Is a little resistence enough?

Can anyone answer?

I'd hardly call 90* winter.   I honestly don't know the answer. But I do know that I trust BonS's and Moodyvalk's investigation and thoroughness in the matter. As a simple, self taught mechanic I will say that it only seems common sense that all springs weaken over time and use. Being that Honda engineers felt the float needles should have springs of a certain strength, I think it only prudent to adhere to that. With that said, I admit I haven't replaced mine. I don't feel the need to tear them apart to replace them. But without a doubt they will be replaced when the carbs come out.
Sorry about your little snowfall incident. Got hot enough here, I had to start up the swamp cooler today.  

[Hook#3287]

Mike Nixon – noted CBX and vintage Honda guru says:

    “I don’t arbitrarily replace parts, only what is needed. The factory float valves often last longer than the motorcycle. They’re also expensive. But, I will not use aftermarket float valves, and here is why. That’s chrome plating that is coming off this aftermarket float valve. The factory ones never do that.”
http://www.randakksblog.com/more-problems-with-aftermarket-float-valves/


 Longevity is an issue also. Whereas the factory part has proven to last 20-30 years,
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/float_valves.html

CBX hydrolock
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/hole_in_one.html

Great info and I respect Randakks, especially on older wings.  I'm not sure his experience runs to the Valks, our carbs and hydro lock issues are pretty much unique to the model, aren't they?

I've used K&L and have not experienced any chrome deformation.  But, they have only been in for 5 years or so.  I replaced the original OEM's because they had lost their spring resistance.

]I'd hardly call 90* winter.  Smiley I honestly don't know the answer. But I do know that I trust BonS's and Moodyvalk's investigation and thoroughness in the matter. As a simple, self taught mechanic I will say that it only seems common sense that all springs weaken over time and use. Being that Honda engineers felt the float needles should have springs of a certain strength, I think it only prudent to adhere to that. With that said, I admit I haven't replaced mine. I don't feel the need to tear them apart to replace them. But without a doubt they will be replaced when the carbs come out.
Sorry about your little snowfall incident. Got hot enough here, I had to start up the swamp cooler today.  Smiley

Yeah, thanks for the weather update, 

I agree, BonS and Moodyvalk's opinions are highly regarded in my shop.   This chome descaling issue is troubling, but that's another reason to replace every time you're there.

[98valk]

Mike Nixon – noted CBX and vintage Honda guru says:

    “I don’t arbitrarily replace parts, only what is needed. The factory float valves often last longer than the motorcycle. They’re also expensive. But, I will not use aftermarket float valves, and here is why. That’s chrome plating that is coming off this aftermarket float valve. The factory ones never do that.”
http://www.randakksblog.com/more-problems-with-aftermarket-float-valves/


 Longevity is an issue also. Whereas the factory part has proven to last 20-30 years,
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/float_valves.html

CBX hydrolock
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/hole_in_one.html

Great info and I respect Randakks, especially on older wings.  I'm not sure his experience runs to the Valks, our carbs and hydro lock issues are pretty much unique to the model, aren't they?

I've used K&L and have not experienced any chrome deformation.  But, they have only been in for 5 years or so.  I replaced the original OEM's because they had lost their spring resistance.

]I'd hardly call 90* winter.  Smiley I honestly don't know the answer. But I do know that I trust BonS's and Moodyvalk's investigation and thoroughness in the matter. As a simple, self taught mechanic I will say that it only seems common sense that all springs weaken over time and use. Being that Honda engineers felt the float needles should have springs of a certain strength, I think it only prudent to adhere to that. With that said, I admit I haven't replaced mine. I don't feel the need to tear them apart to replace them. But without a doubt they will be replaced when the carbs come out.
Sorry about your little snowfall incident. Got hot enough here, I had to start up the swamp cooler today.  Smiley

Yeah, thanks for the weather update, 

I agree, BonS and Moodyvalk's opinions are highly regarded in my shop.   This chome descaling issue is troubling, but that's another reason to replace every time you're there.

read the CBX hydrolock link. similar to problem I have stated that honda had with the '88-89 GL1500, I've posted their service bulletin on the fix. Fixing Carb vent hoses that where sagging and installed a vacuum shut off petcock where the fixes. I just checked and the float valves are used in many honda bikes all different yrs. like Nixon and Randdack stated they last a long time. if the float valves have been failing and causing hydrolock there would be info out there. Randdak stated that latest aftermarket are not flaking.

[Hook#3287]

read the CBX hydrolock link. similar to problem I have stated that honda had with the '88-89 GL1500, I've posted their service bulletin on the fix. Fixing Carb vent hoses that where sagging and installed a vacuum shut off petcock where the fixes. I just checked and the float valves are used in many honda bikes all different yrs. like Nixon and Randdack stated they last a long time. if the float valves have been failing and causing hydrolock there would be info out there. Randdak stated that latest aftermarket are not flaking.

I read the CBX link, but it seems a totally different reason, than the Valks, for the lock.  I wasn't aware of the 88-89 wings issues.

Do you have a reason for the Hydro Lock issue, as far as the carbs are concerned?  Are you of the opinion that float valves are not the problem?

[WintrSol]

read the CBX hydrolock link. similar to problem I have stated that honda had with the '88-89 GL1500, I've posted their service bulletin on the fix. Fixing Carb vent hoses that where sagging and installed a vacuum shut off petcock where the fixes. I just checked and the float valves are used in many honda bikes all different yrs. like Nixon and Randdack stated they last a long time. if the float valves have been failing and causing hydrolock there would be info out there. Randdak stated that latest aftermarket are not flaking.

I read the CBX link, but it seems a totally different reason, than the Valks, for the lock.  I wasn't aware of the 88-89 wings issues.

Do you have a reason for the Hydro Lock issue, as far as the carbs are concerned?  Are you of the opinion that float valves are not the problem?

There are two paths to hydrolock that I know of: the petcock doesn't fully close AND the float valve sticks in a carb on the left bank (two-point failure), or the vacuum diaphragm in the petcock leaks, feeding fuel directly into the #6 vacuum port. One would hope that the first would be taken care of by the overflow, but sometimes the fuel flow is higher than the overflow tube can handle; I had this happen in my CB450, filling the crankcase. If I still had the vacuum operated petcock, I would move the vacuum line to a carb on the right side; at least the fuel would have a chance to leak down into the crankcase, instead of locking the piston.

[Harryc]

I have a question for anyone. If fuel leaks down into a cylinder on one of these Valks does it also leak past the rings and into the crankcase? Reason I ask is because I've had leaking float needles on V-twins and there is fuel in the crankcase. In fact the reason I discovered it was because I am habitual about checking oil level. If it goes up chances are good there's fuel in the oil. Also got into the habit of taking a whiff of the dipstick for traces of fuel. Might be a good idea if a Valk has been sitting overnight or for a longer period of time. If I knew there was fuel in the oil I'd not crank it at all until it was fixed...and even then would remove the plugs on the first crank. Just curious on this mainly because in the hydrolock threads I've seen I don't recall anyone mentioning they also had to change the oil...seems odd.  Or is the situation as WintrSol says, that if the bike is leaning left on the side stand gas won't leak down into the crankcase? What happens if a cylinder on the right side fills with gas?

[Gabriel]

It's purpose is to cushion the needle as the float gets bounced up against the seat.

[Hook#3287]

It's purpose is to cushion the needle as the float gets bounced up against the seat.

Sounds logical.  So the amount of resistance is not important, a little is enough?

The springs condition does not have effect on hydro lock?

It's a single purpose item, for the reason you stated, or a dual purpose item?

[98valk]

read the CBX hydrolock link. similar to problem I have stated that honda had with the '88-89 GL1500, I've posted their service bulletin on the fix. Fixing Carb vent hoses that where sagging and installed a vacuum shut off petcock where the fixes. I just checked and the float valves are used in many honda bikes all different yrs. like Nixon and Randdack stated they last a long time. if the float valves have been failing and causing hydrolock there would be info out there. Randdak stated that latest aftermarket are not flaking.

I read the CBX link, but it seems a totally different reason, than the Valks, for the lock.  I wasn't aware of the 88-89 wings issues.

Do you have a reason for the Hydro Lock issue, as far as the carbs are concerned?  Are you of the opinion that float valves are not the problem?

 The bowl vent overflow line (manual calls them air vent tubes) should be kept cleared and correctly positioned to allow correct air movement. If airflow is blocked in anyway the bowl can actually be pressurized preventing the float from seating the float needle and shutting off fuel flow. Would actually cause rich condition while running. And of course making sure fuel flow is positively secured when not running is extremely important.  Could there be float carb interference as others have posted?, sure, due to manufacturing differences, however I would think that would be extremely rare and the bike would be getting very bad mpg and/or at least one plug reading always rich to indicate a problem that cannot be traced to normal troubleshooting.
This is my take on all this at this time.

Re: Another hydrolock question

Posted By: 98valk <fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 9/4/2008 at 12:30:31

In Response To: Another hydrolock question (G-Man (Gary in NY))

this is from Rider mag sept 1988 about the '88 goldwing Gl1500.
they had the hydro-lock problem and it turned out to be the bowl vent hose was sagging. "the low spotfills with gas and prevents air circulation, much like a sink trap. without a connection to atmosphere, the float bowls pressurize and raw fuel is forced up and out of the carbs through the needle jet. From there gravity takes the fuel down the intake runners. if that cylinder has an open intake valve, hydrolock." "The article states that honda issued a Product Update kit on a fix in feb of that yr which included a metal air-vent pipe and a vacuum fuel valve."
Looking at the service manual pics in the carb section it shows the vent hoses as straight sections just laying loosely on top of other hoses. My 98's vent hoses have a 90 degree end. the end is installed into holes in the rear carb support frame.
So this might be the reason and cause of the problem for some bikes?

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/vrcc_tech.cgi?noframes;read=1274246

honda service bulletin fix

http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/sb1.pdf

[Gabriel]

It's purpose is to cushion the needle as the float gets bounced up against the seat.

Sounds logical.  So the amount of resistance is not important, a little is enough?

The springs condition does not have effect on hydro lock?

It's a single purpose item, for the reason you stated, or a dual purpose item?

Single purpose only

[Hook#3287]

The bowl vent overflow line (manual calls them air vent tubes) should be kept cleared and correctly positioned to allow correct air movement. If airflow is blocked in anyway the bowl can actually be pressurized preventing the float from seating the float needle and shutting off fuel flow. Would actually cause rich condition while running. And of course making sure fuel flow is positively secured when not running is extremely important.  Could there be float carb interference as others have posted?, sure, due to manufacturing differences, however I would think that would be extremely rare and the bike would be getting very bad mpg and/or at least one plug reading always rich to indicate a problem that cannot be traced to normal troubleshooting.
This is my take on all this at this time.

It's purpose is to cushion the needle as the float gets bounced up against the seat

Single purpose only

W/O actually saying it, you both are saying your opinion is the float valves spring and/or it's resistance, has nothing to do with Hydro Lock.  Correct?

I'm not questioning your opinions, just trying to understand the issue clearer.

[Hook#3287]

I would consider its purpose is to serve as a dampener against float bounce. (trailering, rough terrain etc.) Level of fuel in the bowl with a with smooth operating non-deformed float assembly should be able to provide sufficient pressure against needle to the seat. If spring were collapsed it should still hold needle to seat, if fuel level were too high it would pass through the over flow tube and still not get by seat. Many carbs have no spring loaded inlet needles. Is the viton tip perfect after all these years? Is it getting fatigued? Is there a minuscule piece of crud going to cause a problem? If its open, I replace them. Is there a need to open it up??

Sorry, somehow I missed your post.  I don't have an issue at this time, (well, with one of my bikes that is) just trying to understand why some feel the float valves should be replaced and some feel they only need replacement if compromised in some way.  Specifically, my question is about the float valve springs, if they are not as "springy" as when new, should that be of concern.  Jury's still out.

[Gabriel]

The bowl vent overflow line (manual calls them air vent tubes) should be kept cleared and correctly positioned to allow correct air movement. If airflow is blocked in anyway the bowl can actually be pressurized preventing the float from seating the float needle and shutting off fuel flow. Would actually cause rich condition while running. And of course making sure fuel flow is positively secured when not running is extremely important.  Could there be float carb interference as others have posted?, sure, due to manufacturing differences, however I would think that would be extremely rare and the bike would be getting very bad mpg and/or at least one plug reading always rich to indicate a problem that cannot be traced to normal troubleshooting.
This is my take on all this at this time.

It's purpose is to cushion the needle as the float gets bounced up against the seat

Single purpose only

W/O actually saying it, you both are saying your opinion is the float valves spring and/or it's resistance, has nothing to do with Hydro Lock.  Correct?

I'm not questioning your opinions, just trying to understand the issue clearer.

It's not an opnion

[98valk]

The bowl vent overflow line (manual calls them air vent tubes) should be kept cleared and correctly positioned to allow correct air movement. If airflow is blocked in anyway the bowl can actually be pressurized preventing the float from seating the float needle and shutting off fuel flow. Would actually cause rich condition while running. And of course making sure fuel flow is positively secured when not running is extremely important.  Could there be float carb interference as others have posted?, sure, due to manufacturing differences, however I would think that would be extremely rare and the bike would be getting very bad mpg and/or at least one plug reading always rich to indicate a problem that cannot be traced to normal troubleshooting.
This is my take on all this at this time.

It's purpose is to cushion the needle as the float gets bounced up against the seat

Single purpose only

W/O actually saying it, you both are saying your opinion is the float valves spring and/or it's resistance, has nothing to do with Hydro Lock.  Correct?

I'm not questioning your opinions, just trying to understand the issue clearer.

IMO, yes has nothing to do with it. The float, if working correctly is what pushes the needle into the seat to shut off fuel flow out of the bowl. It has to over come the spring tension.
"The spring-loaded valves were developed in the 1930’s (I think by Carter) for use on carburetors designed for off-road or marine applications. The spring minimizes the movement of the float during severe service, and maintains a more constant fuel level in the bowl."
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Fuel_valves.htm
I would agree, fuel bowl level has a lot to do with consistent air/fuel ratios.
Probably can find a ton of info on this in Holley carburetor books. I might pull out some of my old books and check, or just search on line which is probably easier. 

[Hook#3287]

Well alrighty then, thanks guys for taking the time to explain.

Today's a good day.   

Something new has been added to my understanding, of the carbs, in the machines, I love the most.

[98valk]

I would consider its purpose is to serve as a dampener against float bounce. (trailering, rough terrain etc.) Level of fuel in the bowl with a with smooth operating non-deformed float assembly should be able to provide sufficient pressure against needle to the seat. If spring were collapsed it should still hold needle to seat, if fuel level were too high it would pass through the over flow tube and still not get by seat. Many carbs have no spring loaded inlet needles. Is the viton tip perfect after all these years? Is it getting fatigued? Is there a minuscule piece of crud going to cause a problem? If its open, I replace them. Is there a need to open it up??

+1 

[Lyonardo]

I hate to disagree with some truly great mechanics here, but in my experience, the spring on the float valve is VERY important. It actually puts tension on that valve and makes sure it stays seated up against the fuel inlet jet. If the spring is completely shot, the valve can be a little loose and not shut off the fuel supply completely.

Here's why I say this:
When I had a hydrolock, it was my #3 cylinder that was filled with gas.
I opened the carbs and #3 turned out to have absolutely no "bounce" as I tapped on the float.
So I used a tiny flat-head to push each valve up and down.
It was easy to see there was a little movement on that valve. It wasn't tight against the jet hole (or whatever it's called) and that explained my leak at that cylinder.

The groove where the valve fits in to the float is pretty wide.
If you hang the valve in it's correct spot, there is probably an entire millimeter of space for it to jiggle around.

I used a micro-lens on my camera to get in very, VERY close, and could see how much movement there was.

The spring MUST be strong in order to push that valve up into it's seated position.
Check out my video on Youtube. At about 6:23 in, you can see how loose that apparatus is.
https://youtu.be/yozErdfKGTw

The float pushes against that spring loaded plunger... not the valve itself.

[hubcapsc]

I hate to disagree with some truly great mechanics here

  

I'd think important tiny spring-loaded mechanical moving parts
that are subject to wear and varnish might be good to refresh
every 20 or 30 years...

-Mike

[indybobm]

I think it is pretty simple. If the spring tension on an old float valve is noticeably less than a new float valve, it should be replaced. Spring tension is not an arbitrary feature of the float valve, it is designed with a certain amount of tension. If it has lessened over time, it should be replaced.

[Gabriel]

Some designs vary from the original and the spring action may be different, this does not mean the needle valve is defective or wrong for the application.
Remember its sole purpose is to keep the needle from bouncing against the seat...

[98valk]

Ok u made me pullout my low mileage spare set of carbs. I pulled two bowl covers off to see if the carbs were designed/operate different than normal or if there is a design flaw. There is nothing wrong, Keihin has been making carbs a long time, I doubt they would have made a mistake. They didn't.
If looked closely where the spring enters the needle, there is actually a raised area. This area is what is contacting the float tab when the float is fully pushed into the carb body, thereby completely seating the needle in the seat. The spring has already been fully compressed at this point. Full seating only happens during a flooding condition and not during normal operation, even when the engine is not running. This is to protect the viton tip from developing a groove.
So as it has been stated, the needle spring has zero bearing on the needle being fully seated into the seat by the floats. The floats tab contacting the raised area of the needle is what fully seats the needle. See raised area in pic.

[Gabriel]

Why are you looking for design flaws? Did someone mention that?

[98valk]

Why are you looking for design flaws? Did someone mention that?

in other posts it has been alluded to and due to so many saying it's the springs. one poster actually added extra small springs. some where saying the carb body with the floats do not allow full movement of the floats, etc., etc.
I wasn't expecting any flaws, I know enough that there wouldn't be any, but I just had to check, u never know.

[Ricky-D]

This whole discussion about the float needle springs has been going on (off and on) for more than a year and is based on faulty examination that a whole lot of people have bought into, without doing any investigation themselves.

It started with a forum member posting a utube video stating he found a possible cure for a potential hydrolock causation. His premise was faulty and wrong.

If you think the information has any credibility all that is needed is to consult the shop manual and see how Honda says things should be done.

People being people, and so a gullible few kept the question alive, and over the time, the story has grown to be considered factual by many, many who have not bothered to investigate what is the truth but rather keep passing along the information, wrong as it is.

So there you have it, and that is how the story about the need to replace the float needle valves got it's start.

***

[The emperor has no clothes]

This whole discussion about the float needle springs has been going on (off and on) for more than a year and is based on faulty examination that a whole lot of people have bought into without doing and investigation themselves.

It started with a forum member posting a utube video stating he found a possible cure for a potential hydrolock causation. His premise was faulty and wrong.

If you think the information has any credibility all that is needed is to consult the shop manual and see how Honda says things should be done.

People being people, and so a gullible few kept the question alive, and over the time, the story has grown to be considered factual by many, many who have not bothered to investigate what is the truth but rather keep passing along the information, wrong as it is.

So there you have it, and that is how the story about the need to replace the float needle valves got it's start.

***

Yes, you had stated that earlier. But you also stated it had been debunked.

[Hook#3287]

This whole discussion about the float needle springs has been going on (off and on) for more than a year and is based on faulty examination that a whole lot of people have bought into without doing and investigation themselves.

It started with a forum member posting a utube video stating he found a possible cure for a potential hydrolock causation. His premise was faulty and wrong.

If you think the information has any credibility all that is needed is to consult the shop manual and see how Honda says things should be done.

People being people, and so a gullible few kept the question alive, and over the time, the story has grown to be considered factual by many, many who have not bothered to investigate what is the truth but rather keep passing along the information, wrong as it is.

So there you have it, and that is how the story about the need to replace the float needle valves got it's start.

***

The reason for the post is for understanding, if that bothers anyone, stay away.  It is actually a way of investigating.

I consulted the Honda OEM manual and it states that "Faulty float valve" can cause either a lean mixture or a rich mixture.

So, obviously, they go "Faulty" according to the best investigative organization there is, Honda.  Whatever the fault is, is not revealed, but if you want to believe spring resistance is not a fault, so be it.

It's been stated the springs function is to cushion the bounce of the floats for a more even fuel flow.  Sounds correct, but then, the amount of resistance of the spring should also be important, to that end. Low resistance, more float bounce, less fuel flow consistency.

It may not be the, or a, reason for Hydro Lock, in some people's opinion or their decided upon knowledge, but it's an issue to be considered.

When a set of carbs is sitting on the bench for inspection for a problem, removing and inspecting the float valves is prudent.  Why would you not?

If you want to reinstall the float valves you took out, that is your prerogative.

Call me gullible, but I'll be putting new ones in, every time. 

Nowhere did I see where someone suggests pulling carbs for the sole reason of replacing the float valves, but, if you're there anyways, I'd suggest it.

[98valk]

 they go "Faulty" according to the best investigative organization there is, Honda.  Whatever the fault is, is not revealed, but if you want to believe spring resistance is not a fault, so be it.

It's been stated the springs function is to cushion the bounce of the floats for a more even fuel flow.  Sounds correct, but then, the amount of resistance of the spring should also be important, to that end. Low resistance, more float bounce, less fuel flow consistency.

It may not be the, or a, reason for Hydro Lock, in some people's opinion or their decided upon knowledge, but it's an issue to be considered.

When a set of carbs is sitting on the bench for inspection for a problem, removing and inspecting the float valves is prudent.  Why would you not?

If you want to reinstall the float valves you took out, that is your prerogative.

Call me gullible, but I'll be putting new ones in, every time. 

Nowhere did I see where someone suggests pulling carbs for the sole reason of replacing the float valves, but, if you're there anyways, I'd suggest it.

[/quote]

if it's not broke, don't replace it.
if the existing needle valves are working as in carbs were running fine, no need to replace. How do u know if the new one u put in is not faulty?  The needle valves are not a preventative maintenance item. Neither are the floats unless 20% or more ethanol fuel was used. 
"Weak needle valve spring, cause more float bounce", u will never notice that in everyday riding. The springs do not normally go bad from fatigue. Excessive temps and coil bind cause spring failure, neither will ever be seen. Keihin did not pick the wrong spring material or use a design for early failure. They are such low stress in operation they most likely will never weaken.
What RD was trying to get across is somebody sees a problem and attributes the fix to these little springs and the float/carb body design which neither is the case. The floats tab, shuts off the needle and seat correctly in an overflow condition, the needles spring has zero part in that operation of the carburetor. This is how carburetors have been built and designed for decades.
Other factors are the cause of hydrolock, I've posted them as addressed by Honda and very well know carburetor rebuilders that know much more than me.
Enjoy.

[Hook#3287]

 I thought  I should let this post die, but I have to relate what happened to me yesterday.

The Honda motor on my compressor is a GX 160 5.5 hp motor and was leaking at the carburetor bowl .

 I took it apart a couple weeks ago to try to repair it, but it just kept leaking.

I bought a carburetor repair kit off of eBay and yesterday I had the time to finally take it apart again.

The pieces in the new rebuilt kit were of poor quality,  and the float valve was actually too small.

The OEM float itself was in excellent condition and I could tell it was working correctly, when I would push up on the float, with the gas on, it would turn off the flow.

But every time I put the bowl on, it would still leak.  I did this several times .

 On inspection, I could see that the float valve spring was not compressing completely, and with the float in the fully upright position,there was still spring left to be compressed.

 As a last resort, I took the float valve spring off, stretched it as much as I was comfortable with, reinstalled it  and the bowl and guess what?

No leak.

 You can make your own conclusion  

[98valk]

when that happens u are suppose to adjust the float tab, not the spring, to ensure needle valve closure and then adjust float level.

what u did might cause a low fuel level in the bowl now, which will result in extreme leanness aka a viewing hole in piston top to see the top of the connecting rod. 

[hubcapsc]

when that happens u are suppose to adjust the float tab, not the spring, to ensure needle valve closure and then adjust float level.

what u did might cause a low fuel level in the bowl now, which will result in extreme leanness aka a viewing hole in piston top to see the top of the connecting rod. 

I'm away from my manual... I don't think Honda wants us to mess with our float tabs...

-Mike?

[98valk]

when that happens u are suppose to adjust the float tab, not the spring, to ensure needle valve closure and then adjust float level.

what u did might cause a low fuel level in the bowl now, which will result in extreme leanness aka a viewing hole in piston top to see the top of the connecting rod. 

I'm away from my manual... I don't think Honda wants us to mess with our float tabs...

-Mike?

correct, they are non-adjustable. I was referring to Hook's last post about his compressor fix.

[Ricky-D]

I agree CA but it certainly has to be some kinda misleading post by Hook to throw that in to this thread. With all the members that are thoroughly challenged to completely read and comprehend what is being written, you can be sure there are those who will carry this, and repeat this as "gospel".

I just don't see the need to post that kind of stuff, especially in view of the damage it may cause. We'll see this again, somewhere along the line.

Just sayin'

***

[The emperor has no clothes]

I agree CA but it certainly has to be some kinda misleading post by Hook to throw that in to this thread. With all the members that are thoroughly challenged to completely read and comprehend what is being written, you can be sure there are those who will carry this, and repeat this as "gospel".

I just don't see the need to post that kind of stuff, especially in view of the damage it may cause. We'll see this again, somewhere along the line.

Just sayin'

***

You know, that's kind of rich coming from someone who posted that this has all been debunked. But then provided no debunking evidence. I can assure you Hook didn't post this as "some kind of misleading post". Some of us strive to learn more, some already know it all. 

[Hook#3287]

when that happens u are suppose to adjust the float tab, not the spring, to ensure needle valve closure and then adjust float level.

what u did might cause a low fuel level in the bowl now, which will result in extreme leanness aka a viewing hole in piston top to see the top of the connecting rod. 

There is no adjustment on the GX160 carb float.  It's a very simple float, float valve.  I doubt very much a leanness situation will happen on it, it will just sputter.  But if it burns a hole in the piston, I'll let you know.

Don't get me wrong, I don't believe that the float valve in a GX160 is even close to the design of the ones in a Valk.  They do basically the same function, but are very different.

Ricky-D , the reason for my last post is only because of the coincidence of the whole thing and as I said, make you own conclusion and I believe we know yours.  I was only relating what happened and I don't believe any one is being misled, but if so, hopefully you will show us the debunking you discussed and we can all be correctly informed.

[98valk]

when that happens u are suppose to adjust the float tab, not the spring, to ensure needle valve closure and then adjust float level.

what u did might cause a low fuel level in the bowl now, which will result in extreme leanness aka a viewing hole in piston top to see the top of the connecting rod.  

There is no adjustment on the GX160 carb float.  It's a very simple float, float valve.  I doubt very much a leanness situation will happen on it, it will just sputter.  But if it burns a hole in the piston, I'll let you know.

Don't get me wrong, I don't believe that the float valve in a GX160 is even close to the design of the ones in a Valk.  They do basically the same function, but are very different.

Ricky-D , the reason for my last post is only because of the coincidence of the whole thing and as I said, make you own conclusion and I believe we know yours.  I was only relating what happened and I don't believe any one is being misled, but if so, hopefully you will show us the debunking you discussed and we can all be correctly informed.

I didn't think u were being misleading, u just provided a real world example to fix something, just in my experience not the way to go for a long term fix.
Hey, I hope everything works out.  just my weird sense of humor sometimes with the piston hole comment. didn't mean to be degrading or anything.
All the best to u. looking forward to the next tech session with ya.  
God Bless.

[Hook#3287]

when that happens u are suppose to adjust the float tab, not the spring, to ensure needle valve closure and then adjust float level.

what u did might cause a low fuel level in the bowl now, which will result in extreme leanness aka a viewing hole in piston top to see the top of the connecting rod.  

There is no adjustment on the GX160 carb float.  It's a very simple float, float valve.  I doubt very much a leanness situation will happen on it, it will just sputter.  But if it burns a hole in the piston, I'll let you know.

Don't get me wrong, I don't believe that the float valve in a GX160 is even close to the design of the ones in a Valk.  They do basically the same function, but are very different.

Ricky-D , the reason for my last post is only because of the coincidence of the whole thing and as I said, make you own conclusion and I believe we know yours.  I was only relating what happened and I don't believe any one is being misled, but if so, hopefully you will show us the debunking you discussed and we can all be correctly informed.

I didn't think u were being misleading, u just provided a real world example to fix something, just in my experience not the way to go for a long term fix.
Hey, I hope everything works out.  just my weird sense of humor sometimes with the piston hole comment. didn't mean to be degrading or anything.
All the best to u. looking forward to the next tech session with ya.  
God Bless.