Wintering traditions for the Valk

[Mikey]

As winter approaches, I'm wondering what some of the more experienced owners do with their Valks when they put them up for winter. I just hooked up my new Battery Tender last night, and I plan to use either Stabil or Seafoam tomorrow and saturday (Freeze Your Nuts 09). I'll have it parked in the garage, but i'm wondering if I need to get it up on blocks, or do anything special to prevent flat spotting the tires. Should I change the oil before I put it away? or before I go for my last ride of the year? This is my first winter with my girl, and I wanna treat her right!

[Spirited-6]

As winter approaches, I'm wondering what some of the more experienced owners do with their Valks when they put them up for winter. I just hooked up my new Battery Tender last night, and I plan to use either Stabil or Seafoam tomorrow and saturday (Freeze Your Nuts 09). I'll have it parked in the garage, but i'm wondering if I need to get it up on blocks, or do anything special to prevent flat spotting the tires. Should I change the oil before I put it away? or before I go for my last ride of the year? This is my first winter with my girl, and I wanna treat her right!

Mikey, this is what I do, along with other things. I will bring air in tires up about 2 -3 # and park on a rubber mat, the kind used in front of benches. I do change oil, Stabil, fill tank to brim, Tender on batt. and cover with a nice one. I do wax before she goes into "drydock"    I used to go to a full blown storage, but now if weather warms up to 50 plus and sunny, I will RIDE.   but I will bring back to before condition.

[Bone]

Spirited-6 does it the same as I do in Michigan. Make sure you turn off the petcock I had a full tank of gas flood the crankcase of a Goldwing. Never start the bike to hear it run Unless you warm it completely and do that by riding not letting it idle.
Last winter I stored it on the bike lift but wondered if letting the suspension hang there extended was a good thing 

[Patrick]

Treat the fuel[ I prefer sea-foam] and run the engine long enough to get the fuel to and through the carburetors.. Add more air to the tires[ appr 45#].. I set stands under the crash bars to keep the bike upright and to take a little of the weight off the front end.. I change oil in the fall rather than spring.. I add a little oil in the holes and spin the engine a couple and then reinstall the sparklers.. Set the bike on something if the floor is subject to moisture and cover only the top side of the bike with a light breathable cover[ an old sheet works just fine] to allow good air circulation.. I don't remove or use battery tender and I only get 9 or 10 years out of a battery.... 

[valkyriemc]

Solution: come down to Florida and ride it...

[Mikey]

But then what would I do with my snowmobile?! I do wish that I could ride the Valk year round...

[FLAVALK]

Solution: come down to Florida and ride it...

Hmmm...that's what I do!  The best riding is in the dead of winter. It's still 90 degrees here this week

[Ferris Leets]

Winterizing to me is adding some air to the tires because of the low temperature.  Then I have to let some out in the spring.

[Steve K (IA)]

They are washed and waxed.  Seafoam added and the tanks topped off.  Ride for about 2 miles to be sure the Seafoam has made it to the carbs and park them.  Put a sheet over the bikes and if and when I think of it, hook up the Battery Tender for a bit.  If it warms to 40 degrees or more, I might get one out, but will stop and gas up adding the appropriate amount of Seafoam just before getting home.  On those days, I take the can of Seafoam, a little measuring cup and a funnel along so I can add it before filling the tank.  I change the oil in the spring.  Been doing it this way for a very long time.

[98valk]

seafoam is almost half alcohol and does not stabilize the cheap gasoline additves. alcohol attracts water = corrosion.
I have posted the exact components of seafoam in another post.

[BrettB]

Even though you have used a stabilizer, aren't you supposed to drain the carbs if it is going to be stored all winter??

Anyone heard anything about "startron", the newer stabilizer for gasoline and gas with the alcohol blends??  I guess they use it in the marine environment because it is so good with the alcohol fuels that draw moisture.

[Misfit]

I don't winterize, so I could be wrong But if I was to add oil to the cylinders I would use fogging oil in an aerosol can. Also you want to change your oil prior to storing. Old oil has an acid content that you don't want sitting in your crankcase. If you change your oil in the fall the oil will be as good as new in the spring. Also if storing on a lift you may only want to take some of the weight off of the tires so your forks are not fully extended for several months.

[f6john]

     I don't winterize, while spring comes earlier here than the frozen north it still gets cold and stays cold for weeks at a time. Many times I start a fire in the fireplace and never let it go out from December - February. Anyway if the roads are clear I ride, not all day every day but once a week roads permitting. Last time I left for Daytona it was 25 degrees and didn't  get above freezing till I was half way to Chattanooga. Gerbings are generally required

[Davemn]

Did anyone mention using non-oxygenated fuel? I fill it up, right to the top after I add 1/2 can of SeaFoam. Run a few minutes.Do an oil change, take the battery out. Cover it up. Say a little prayer. Thats it.

[sheets]

Same as most.  Washed and waxed.  Fresh oil before bed time.  FULL gas tank treated with SeaFoam.  Circulate the fuel and the fresh oil.  Turn off the gas valve.  Light mist of WD40 on clean wheels and chrome stuff to prevent rust.  Cover with a flannel sheet.  I'm not a chemist, or a wrench, so I  can't debate any of the technical stuff.    Been spending months at a time on the lift with no adverse side effects that I'm aware of.  Battery tender on for a couple hours in January, then again the day before she comes out of hibernation (mid March or April 1st.).  Ten years after . . . so far so good.  No hits, no runs, no errors.  Ymmv,  ???

[Mikey]

Do you have to run it at all after you do an oil change to get the fresh oil around? Or is it best to just leave it after you change the oil? Or should I go for a ride after I change it?

[Farther]

Go for a ride to circulate both the fresh oil and treated gasoline through the engine.

[BrettB]

I'll ask again.............as a final step, should the carbs be drained even though the fuel is treated. 

[Bone]

I don't know if you should, I have never drained any of the carbs. I don't think drying out is good. I've not had one problem when I have used Stabil. Some winters and late springs have totaled 3 months storage for my bikes.
 

[FLAVALK]

seafoam is almost half alcohol and does not stabilize the cheap gasoline additves. alcohol attracts water = corrosion.
I have posted the exact components of seafoam in another post.

Sta-Bil Marine formula is for use in Gasoline with ethanol. From what I've read, it's good stuff but personally have never used it.

http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx

[BrettB]

Here in central Illinois it is hard to find gasoline without ethanol.  It used to be that gas stations had to post each pump and each grade of fuel if it contained ethanol.  Now all they have to do is post a sign that says "may contain up to 10% ethanol".  When you go in to ask, they usually don't know if it does or not!

[John U.]

I've used the new Stabil and it is good stuff. I found it at my local Walmart.

[sheets]

I'm not say'n it's right or wrong, but I have never drained the carbs.  A stiff dose of SeaFoam at bed time, and five months later I fire her up and generate some heat and burn some gas by wracking up twenty or so miles.  I'm not the foremost authority here, but if I was putting her up for six months and beyond, I'd drain the carbs.  I have the after market gas valve that tells me when its shut off, it's off.  Come spring time I lightly-gently bump the starter to get a feel for a hydro-lock situation.  So far, so good.  Ymmv,    ???

[Cholla]

I've got a rodent/varmint concern since I store my Valk in an unheated shop out here in the country, so I do a couple extra things to deter the little fella's:
Wash/detail bike-change oil-pull the seats off(store in the house)-add heavy dose of seafoam to gas-run treated gas into carbs-fill gas up to the brim-turn petcock off-drain carbs-fog cylinders with stabil aerosol fogger-oil airhorn compressor-pull battery(store in basement,charge occasionally through the winter)-tuck scented laundry sheets here&there(mouse deterrent supposedly)-plastic bags over exhaust-put bike cover on.

[KW]

Nothing like starting a flame. . . . . Opinions are like armpits; Everyone has two and they both stink. I agree with CA 100%.  Seafoam is NOT for long term storage. Write their company and ask them if their product is meant for long term engine storage. Then ask Stabil the same question. There's no comparision. . .  I know some people have had Stabil crystalize on the shelf. That's why there's an expiration date on the bottle.  Seafoam is great stuff for cleaning everything out in the spring, but if you're parking your bike for 4 or 5 months, you may regret it.

Also. . .  I've never used a battery tender. I take my batteries inside and place them on a wood bench in the basement. Truth be told, that's probally overkill. Cold doesn't kill a 'healthy' battery. Hot weather, or over-heating, does. The cold just brings out the damage that was done during the summer. I just replaced my OEM battery on my 99 THIS past summer.

Ok. .  I'm done airing my "armpit" so flame away 

[BonS]

Also. . .  I've never used a battery tender. I take my batteries inside and place them on a wood bench in the basement. Truth be told, that's probally overkill. Cold doesn't kill a 'healthy' battery. Hot weather, or over-heating, does. The cold just brings out the damage that was done during the summer. I just replaced my OEM battery on my 99 THIS past summer.

I second that emotion, the only thing as bad as heat for a battery is being chronically undercharged: sulfation. Cold just slows/weakens the electro chemical reaction but doesn't hurt it. I use battery tenders on everything though.

[Pete]

When I store a bike, I always drain the carbs and fill the gas tank. Draining the carbs does NO damage. Filling the tank reduces condensation and helps prevent rust in the gas tank. Just remember when removing it from storage you must introduce gas into the bowls before attempting to start the bike. I usually just disconnect the gas line, use a funnel and pour gas into the bowls. lThanks Pete.

[alph]

Here’s what I do.

Empty the fuel tank completely.  I mean 100% (I’ll actually siphon out every drop.)  Get a screw driver and drain each carburetor float (small flat head screw on each carb bowl).  Start engine and run it until it dies, with choke on.  Jack it up, onto its stands releasing any stress on the springs and shocks/forks.  Lower tire pressure (I have a heated shed).  Most definitely change oil!  Actually the most important thing to do!  Once oil is changed, remove spark plugs, squirt a tiny bit into the cylinder, crank engine a few cranks, and replace plugs.  Remove battery, place on tender or charge well with trickle charger, repeat once every few weeks, by the way, it doesn’t hurt a battery to be stored on the concrete floor.  Check your antifreeze, make sure it can handle the freezing weather, it would suck if next spring you find out that the guy you bought it from put straight water in it for some dumb reason, and you end up cracking your block over the winter!!  Even if the guy supposedly took it to a reputable shop, don’t trust what you hear, find out for yourself!  Wash it, wax it, take pictures and keep them on your cell phone as wall paper to remind you that spring is just six months away!! 

Good luck!!

Al.

[Misfit]

Here’s what I do.

Empty the fuel tank completely.  I mean 100% (I’ll actually siphon out every drop.)  Get a screw driver and drain each carburetor float (small flat head screw on each carb bowl).  Start engine and run it until it dies, with choke on.  Jack it up, onto its stands releasing any stress on the springs and shocks/forks.  Lower tire pressure (I have a heated shed).  Most definitely change oil!  Actually the most important thing to do!  Once oil is changed, remove spark plugs, squirt a tiny bit into the cylinder, crank engine a few cranks, and replace plugs.  Remove battery, place on tender or charge well with trickle charger, repeat once every few weeks, by the way, it doesn’t hurt a battery to be stored on the concrete floor.  Check your antifreeze, make sure it can handle the freezing weather, it would suck if next spring you find out that the guy you bought it from put straight water in it for some dumb reason, and you end up cracking your block over the winter!!  Even if the guy supposedly took it to a reputable shop, don’t trust what you hear, find out for yourself!  Wash it, wax it, take pictures and keep them on your cell phone as wall paper to remind you that spring is just six months away!! 

Good luck!!

Al.

I have a hard time believing that you can siphon out every last drop. The tank won't completley empty out of the petcock either. After you siphon,  you might want to pull your tank and shake it around a bit. I think that you will be suprised at how much fuel is left.

[Spirited-6]

When I store a bike, I always drain the carbs and fill the gas tank. Draining the carbs does NO damage. Filling the tank reduces condensation and helps prevent rust in the gas tank. Just remember when removing it from storage you must introduce gas into the bowls before attempting to start the bike. I usually just disconnect the gas line, use a funnel and pour gas into the bowls. lThanks Pete.

I could never understand why one would drain carbs. I thought that was what "Stabil" was for, to protect from carmalizing, (spell) on internal parts. I have never drained a carb. in 50 plus years.  

[Pete]

Over time(enough time) even with Stabil(or some such) petroleum products condense/evaporate and leave residue.
Read the use statement on Stabil even it is good for only so long. Why buy Stabil when for nothing and about the same time and effort one can drain the carbs and be 100% sure they will not gum up. It is your money, your time and your bike do what you want. The originator of this tread specifically ask about draining the carbs. WELL I do and it works like a champ - there is no question about that. If not draining works for you great. Thanks Pete.

[Farther]

I try to ride mine year around.  There is only a few days at a stretch in the winter where the roads are questionable here in the State of Jefferson.

[Bob E.]

I try and ride throughout the winter, so long as the roads are dry.  This is one reason my chrome looks like crap though...you can never get all that salt off when you have a freezing unheated metal shed for storage.  I try and wipe it down, but when the spray cleaner freezes on contact, its kinda tough.  But starting about now, I'll keep a bottle of Sta-bil in the saddlebag and put in a couple ounces whenever I fill up so it is always in the tank and carbs if the weather turns ugly and I have to park the bike for an extended period of time.  Also, I'll start plugging in the battery tender when parked for the same reason.  That way it is always ready to go.  Otherwise, that's about it.  Since I make an effort to ride at least once every week or so, I don't bother with the oil until spring.  I do need to get after that anti-freeze though.  It is way past over-due for a change.  I did check it with one of those float testers and it says it is still good to way below freezing...but I'm sure there are some not-so-good chemicals in it by now.

By the way, I've been using Sta-bil in my street and dirt bikes forever...over 20 years...and have never had a problem...knock on wood.  Also, I never had a motorcycle battery last more than about 3 years until I started using a battery tender in the winter...now my quad has the original battery (9 years) and my Valk battery is going on 8 years.  Meanwhile, my dad's wing with no battery tender has a 3 year old battery and it doesn't hold a charge any more.

[Skinhead]

I stole this from the Rogue Riders Chapter leader on the MI site, This is the official Rogue Rider Chapter winterization procedure.  We will have a Technical session at InzaneX for you rookies.


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Re: Winterization

Ok, here's the secret formula.
1. Put the bike in the basement.
2. Add a little stabil, if I have any.
3. Crack a cold one. (very important)
4. Time for contemplation.
5. Check the plugs. yup good for another year.
6. Hmmm, what can I chrome this winter? Maybe the rear wheel.
7. Crack another cold one. (equally important)
8. Have Joe and John and Jeff over to "suggest what might need to be done.
9. Crack four cold ones. very, very, very , very important.
10. Contemplate their suggestions. Then dismiss them out of hand.
11. Crack four more cold ones.

[fudgie]

Seafoam and a full tank. Put her in the corner and place it under cover. I never had a tender on the battery. Never had fresh oil in it either. Usually put it away with 1000 miles on the oil. Come mid March I roll her over to Kits parking spot and do my spring maintance and hope it warms in mid april.

[valkmc]

About 16 years ago I was out of work looking for a job (school teacher) in upstate New York. I was trying to decide if I should move to another state. I was sitting at the dinner table complaing about winterizing both of my bikes when my wife who really wanted to move to Forida where she grew up said if we move to Forida you will never have to do that again. I moved the family down that winter and have never winterized again. 55 this morning when I rode to work, 76 right now at lunch time. I have since divorced her but I do admit this was one piece of good advice she gave me (the only good one).

[POPS 57]

I change the oil. When i know its my last ride i go to the local airport and fill it up with ava. gas $3.58 a gal 100 octane. I run it home with that. It's 5 miles and then shut off the gas and run it dry. They have to make the ava. gas like the old gas that had a good shelf life. I do the same with my snowmobiles that sit all summer which is worse then the winter for going bad. I have owned big bird for two winters so far so good.

[Farther]

i go to the local airport and fill it up with ava. gas $3.58 a gal 100 octane.

  I wouldn't do that with any vehicle that has a cat on it (the Valk does not) because of the lead in the AvGas.

[Moonshot_1]

I stole this from the Rogue Riders Chapter leader on the MI site, This is the official Rogue Rider Chapter winterization procedure.  We will have a Technical session at InzaneX for you rookies.


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VRCC#: 19836
   
   
Re: Winterization

Ok, here's the secret formula.
1. Put the bike in the basement.
2. Add a little stabil, if I have any.
3. Crack a cold one. (very important)
4. Time for contemplation.
5. Check the plugs. yup good for another year.
6. Hmmm, what can I chrome this winter? Maybe the rear wheel.
7. Crack another cold one. (equally important)
8. Have Joe and John and Jeff over to "suggest what might need to be done.
9. Crack four cold ones. very, very, very , very important.
10. Contemplate their suggestions. Then dismiss them out of hand.
11. Crack four more cold ones.

NO NO NO We are talking about winterizing the BIKE!

[Sodbuster]

Also .... if you have open exhaust it works really well to stuff the ends with steel wool to keep the mice out .