Lights but no crank

[JC19]

I recently de-smogged my 2000 I/S. Put everything back together and it started and ran fine. However, I realized I had forgotten to connect the fuel gauge, so I lifted the tank just enough to remedy that. After doing so, the bike won't turn over. Lights come one and go off when I hit the start button. Here's what I've tried:
*Made sure kill switch was in the run position
*Charged, then replaced the battery
*Tested starter relay by crossing two posts (cranks over when I do that)
*Tried a different starter relay (not a new one, though)
*Cleaned starter switch
*I cleaned each connection and used dialectic grease to reassemble
*I hear a slight 'ping' in one of the three relays located just in front and to the left of the battery box (not sure which relay it is.)
What might be your thoughts on a next step? Thanks for the help.

[John Schmidt]

You do realize dielectric grease is by its very name is basically non-conductive! We would use it when assembling the old fashion distributors, put it on the cam that open/close the points, was used to prevent shorting out of the system and still afford lube.

[JC19]

I have to admit that I don't have a ton of experience with the electrical system, but this is what I was told to use after cleaning. The product says to use it on 'terminals, switches, distributor caps, light sockets, spark plug boots, electrical connectors, and fuses.'

Are you saying I should clean it all out of there?

[hubcapsc]

I have to admit that I don't have a ton of experience with the electrical system, but this is what I was told to use after cleaning. The product says to use it on 'terminals, switches, distributor caps, light sockets, spark plug boots, electrical connectors, and fuses.'

Are you saying I should clean it all out of there?

All those places are good places... right smack dab on the place where the electrical connection
happens is a bad place... I think on spark plug caps, for example, you'd put it on there so that
it kind of seals around where the cap mates with the porcelain... whoever wrote the wiki
page makes a good explanation:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease

-Mike

[JC19]

I really appreciate the help here, guys. I'll clean it out of there and see what happens. Thanks again.

[Hook#3287]

Electrical issues are a challenge to me.

Did you disrupt the bank angle sensor in any way?

The honda manual is very helpful in nailing down problems.

There's test's for the angle sensor, angle sensor relay, starter relay, etc.

If you don't have the Honda manual, look here.


http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[da prez]

  I'm twisting the grey matter here. My brothers bike wouldn't crank. Inside the fairing on the right side is a 9 pin (?) connecter. The starter switch wiring goes thru it. (again , I am trying to remember)
  I had voltage on one side but not the other. Even looking at the wiring diagram , I do not remember what wires it is.  Maybe he will chime in and remember something. (he is a lot older than me)

                            da prez

[JC19]

After much head scratching and diagnosing on my part, I--shamefully--trailered the bike to a mechanic friend. He tried everything I tried and then looked at the starter switch. Turns out that was the problem. Cleaned switch and connections and it started right up. The dialectric grease didn't seem to be a problem where I used it. Thank you for your input everyone.

[Paladin528]

The dielectric grease is "cleaned" off when the connection is made.  It will prevent corrosion and also prevent arching on some connections when they get wet.  Dielectric grease IS the proper stuff to apply to your connectors.