Clutch Engagement/Disengagement Distance

[Forge]

My '99 Interstate has 12,700 miles on it. I picked her up earlier this year and put 2,000 of those miles on her. She had sat for a year and a half before I bought her. The clutch lever engagement is way out to almost the end of the lever throw. While riding, if I barely pull on the lever, the clutch will disengage. I think it used to always be farther in and sometimes it is. Where do I need to look?

[Grandpot]

Mine has always engaged and disengaged in the last 25% of travel. I have over 100K miles.

[longrider]

Mine is the same as yours.  If the clutch isn't slipping everything is normal

warren

[WintrSol]

If you don't like it, Kuryakyn makes adjustable levers, so you can move it closer to the grip. On the lowest setting, it will actually still drag a bit when the lever meets the grip, at least on mine.

[Brewer]

You might look at the lever pin to see if it has any wobble. It is possible for them to get out of round. While looking at the lever also check the small brass bushing. These are easy to check.

If still concerned it 'might' be the rivets in the clutch pack, harder to check but the changing engage point can indicate this issue.

Happy hunting for the answer.

[Daniel Meyer]

Normal for the valk (at least both of mine, one with a quarter million miles on it). Engagement/disengagement is in the last bit of outward/extended lever travel. Been that way since I bought her new...

[Bighead]

Ride it.

[Hooter]

Bleed it.

[h13man]

One little touch/loss of pressure on any hydraulic system will result in instant response so to speak.

[98valk]

clean out the slave cylinder. bleeding it doesn't completely clean it out. then refill/bleed with DOT 4 LV which will extend needed replacement time. It has a higher wet boiling point and gives better consistent operation over a larger temp range than DOT 4.