bath tub drain removal tool

[cookiedough]

which one works best or other methods that work?

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-Wrench-Dumbell-Ratchet/dp/B000AO193S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547401078&sr=8-3&keywords=bathtub+removal+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-05255-Extractor-Removes-Stubborn-Drains/dp/B00C0M7DVA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1547401078&sr=8-4&keywords=bathtub+removal+tool

they say in most reviews the 2nd one pounding in and then turning works best overall. 

Needing to replace my 15+ year drain in bathtub NO cross sections left to turn it out.  Before I attempt a crescent wrench or hammer claw end or ? probably just buggering it up more,  any more ideas?

I vaguely remember some 15+ years ago when last replaced,  it was a PITA to get loosened up.

[9Ball]

I have the first style and have used it twice.  It works great if you have the cross-bars.

Sounds like yours corroded away, so the first tool won’t help you.  The second one looks like your best bet.  If that doesn’t work you’re kind of screwed.  Might have to cut it out but that could be catastrophic to the threads.

Try the second one and if that fails time to call an expensive plumber...

Good luck.

[Jess from VA]

Whatever you do, don't just pound a broom stick down the drain trying to unclog it (I tried the plunger, Drano and a hand-turn snake, and none worked).

You'll put a hole in the sink trap, and nothing else to do but jackhammer out the slab and repair the drain pipe.

So I've only had 1 1/2 baths instead of 2, for the last 7 years now.

I lost a shower, but gained a storage closet.  

Anyone needs plumbing help, give me a call.  Have (big) hammer (and a small brain), will travel.  

[da prez]

  The second one is (was) called an internal pipe wrench. I have about 20 sizes. I do not go up to that size. They work very well.

                                        da prez

[TTG53#1717]

I cleaned the inside of the old drain with CLR or Limeaway and then dried it. I went to my socket drawer and found a 1/2 drive socket that just fit the drain bore. Sprayed the socket with brake clean and slathered 5 minute epoxy on the socket and the drain bore before twisting the socket in. I waited a good hour and then used a heat gun on low to warm up the drain bore a little. I used a breaker bar but didn’t have to, it came out pretty easy.
Have some plumbers putty on hand when you go to install the new drain.
You can crack off the old drain and then wire brush the epoxy off the socket.

[Robert]

These work pretty well and most hardware stores have them in stock. If they dont have the exact right size you can use a piece of metal in between the backside and the drain for space.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/plumbing-repair/how-to-use-an-internal-pipe-wrench/view-all/

If you put a pipe in the hole then jam a screwdriver in between the pipe and the drain this also works.

[f6john]

I replaced the drain in my mothers bathroom last year using the first tool. The house was built in 1978 and had the original brass drain. I replaced it due to appearance as the chrome was flaking off. I had to use a cheater bar on the ratchet and get down in the tub and use my feet to brace against the side of the tub to get it to break loose..

I suspect the second tool would work but be preparaed for a fight. Also realize that the tubing the drain is connnected to could be weak and the amount of force used to get the drain to turn could cause damage and leaks. In my case, mothers house has a basement so I could easily inspect if there was any problem.

[cookiedough]

I replaced the drain in my mothers bathroom last year using the first tool. The house was built in 1978 and had the original brass drain. I replaced it due to appearance as the chrome was flaking off. I had to use a cheater bar on the ratchet and get down in the tub and use my feet to brace against the side of the tub to get it to break loose..

I suspect the second tool would work but be preparaed for a fight. Also realize that the tubing the drain is connnected to could be weak and the amount of force used to get the drain to turn could cause damage and leaks. In my case, mothers house has a basement so I could easily inspect if there was any problem.

they must have made those drains with brass balls of steel.  Just bought the drain screw in replacement for bathtub this weekend and claim LIFETIME warranty, but wanna bet another 15 years tops again.  If it was worth it since only cost 10 bucks,  keep the receipt once the cross members start rotting away in less than 5 years and keep getting FREE replacements for life from mfg.  Sure would be easier if the middle cross members down in there were still there to grip and spin off.  I looked down inside and is pretty nasty and eaten away all over the sides. 

 I see home depot has that 2nd tool to hammer in and use socket to spin off, going that route next weekend, wish me luck.  If not, I will keep trying since has to be weekend since only bathroom in house and do not want to be without shower for more than 1 day - or so I hope!

[LL]

I just dealt with a tub drain in my guest bath last night. I tried tappin the extractor in my drain (would not recess in too far in the first place). It snapped the collar (flange) right off so all I had was the threaded portion still in the plastic connector below the drain. Tried to use a screwdriver and a half inch extension to pry it out only to have chunks of the cast insert come out. THEN I realized there was a brass reducer installed too so...…… I got my mini hacksaw, sawed vertically till I saw brass fillings in (3) opposite places enough to "flick" out the cut "cast" pieces exposing the brass reducer. I then carefully installed the extractor (it went in almost halfway this time), attached a 1/2" extension and ratchet (NO tapping in either) and got the reducer out.  

Before removing cast pieces