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Need Help Troubleshooting

Started by Tundra, Sat 21, Nov 2009, 08:26:50

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Tundra

I need help trouble shooting.
Yesterday when my clock hit 86 miles from full tank, she acted like she was running out of gas. I switched to reserve, didn't help.
I limped into a gas station in the middle of nowhere (Hardee County), gassed up, said a little prayer and on my way, problem gone!
88 miles down the road, same problem. Switched to reserve seemed to clear up a bit, then same thing. Limped in for gas again, I was not empty either time, 2.5 and 2.6 gallons to fill her up. This time I turned around to head home, I wanted a direct route, so went 301 to the crosstown expressway (mistake) Most direct, although nowhere to pull over. Performance and speed decreased, couldn't get over 42mph, cars passing me at 80mph. Stopped for gas again when I safely could, at 90 miles on the clock from last fill, road home problem free, 6 miles. WTF? ???  
I was supposed to meet up with TJ at the Log Cabin today (too far to push a Valk)  :(  It appears the problem consistantly appears at 86-90 miles from last fill-up.???

Note: Last maintenance performed was shimming needles and installing Interstate springs. I have ridden since this, problem free and re-checked my work (diaphrams and sliders properly seated)
TIA-for any input.
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

John U.

It sounds like it could be a failing petcock or more likely a cracked vacume  line to the petcock. If the vacume is reduced the petcock won't open fully but with a full tank of gas, the head pressure is enough.
Good luck
John

DFragn

If you've installed a fuel filter - remove it to rule it out.

Tundra

#3
No fuel filter, I rebuilt my petcock earlier this year. I don't remember, but at least 3-4 months ago. Also replaced the petcock vacuum line at that time. Thanks.
  The milage from fill-up, to when this problem occurs is clost to the same, could that indicate anything???
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

Bone

Running out about the same usage each time.
That might indicate the bottom of the tank screen plugged.
I haven't read here of that ever happening. Just a thought.

Warlock

Sounds like petcock problem or screen. I had problems like that and I could back off the throttle and it would run fine. If I tried to run faster it would act like it was running out of gas. Problem was the petcock. So I installed electric fuel shut off and done away with the vacuum and no problems since.
David

I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby

Scott from FL, now in Maine

Hey Tundra, another thing to note is the tank vent, but the only way I know to test it is another ride. Ride until it happens again and then open the tank and close it to see if it clears up. You could be forming a vacuum in it. If that seems to fix it, try it again, but put a tie wrap in the cap before you close it to see if the problem goes away for good. If so, you'll know exactly what the problem is. Good Luck and keep us posted!  8)

junior

for chits and ha ha's try this and e-mail back the results please: when it acts up and your still going ( pull the clutch in and let it idle for a few seconds) ans see it it wont pick back up and run normal, cause mine is doing the same thing i think i have narrowed it down to water lock from the ethenol in the gas, we have 10% here in NH.

thanks, junior

sandy

Quote from: junior on Sat 21, Nov 2009, 14:03:27
for chits and ha ha's try this and e-mail back the results please: when it acts up and your still going ( pull the clutch in and let it idle for a few seconds) ans see it it wont pick back up and run normal, cause mine is doing the same thing i think i have narrowed it down to water lock from the ethenol in the gas, we have 10% here in NH.

thanks, junior

When you pull the clutch and idle, the manifold vacuum goes way up. This will open the petcock due to a higher vacuum. During the "clutch pull", more fuel will fill the bowls and off you go again. It's still a petcock problem.

six2go #152

My '98 was doing the exact same thing back in the early Summer. My petcock had been rebuilt so I thought it was a vent tube issue. Nope! Each time it died, I could get it restarted by opening the fuel cap to allow air in, then it would run for awhile longer. Try rolling up a dollar bill or something similar & close the fuel cap on it so as to keep the cap from sealing completely. Mine would act normally if I did this. We checked the petcock, and even though it had been rebuilt, it would not hold a vacuum. Installed a Pingel and problem is gone.

Tundra

Thanks for the reply's :cooldude: I'll keep you posted.
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

AussieValk

I know this has been in here before, but I'm too lazy to look. Can someone put up the link for the Pingel fuel tap please?

Thanks.

John U.





Quote from: AussieValk on Sat 21, Nov 2009, 20:53:28
I know this has been in here before, but I'm too lazy to look. Can someone put up the link for the Pingel fuel tap please?

Thanks.

This will do it I believe: http://www.pingelonline.com/

Tundra

OK, today's the day. I will be looking at the old girl today, checking the vacuum line for kinks and proper ventillation.  Checking the tank screen for dirt/ obstruction.  Checking the petcock for proper operation. Will post my results for future refferance. I'm hoping for the easy, inexpensive way out for a change!
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

Crazyhorse



   Can the OEM petcock be converted to work as a manual petcock?

Tundra

#15
I'm not the expert here...I believe I saw somewhere that you can cut a hole out of the diaphram. Which would eliminate the vacuum operation. So If this is true, then yes you would be strictly manual on and off. ???
  Has anyone done this? Happy with your results?
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

Patrick

CH,, the OEM petcock can be converted to manual and the instructions are probably some where in the archives if not shoptalk.. But, the time it takes to do that[I did it once] isn't worth it cuz it can still dribble when shut-off.. I don't think I've heard of anyone having a problem with a Pingle..

Bone

This was posted a week or so ago. The RM site for the belly tank tells us how to convert to manual.



1.1. Disassemble petcock valve by removing 4 screws.


2.2. Remove diaphragms from center slug.


3.3. Reinstall fuel diaphragm backwards (upside down) from original position.


4.4. Reassemble petcock valve without spring, spring seat and slug. (should only have 2 diaphragms.


5.5. Replace petcock valve back into tank in original position.
http://www.rmworksinc.com/files/Belly_tank_instruction_manuel-pdf2.pdf



Ricky-D

I would strongly urge anyone considering to modify their existing stock petcock to not mess with it.

That stock petcock is extremely unreliable and will fail you absolutely, especially if you modify it.

An aftermarket petcock is the best way to achieve what you want from your petcock.

Pingel and Golan come to mind as a good aftermarket petcock.

Just sayin'.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

Rocketman

Quote from: junior on Sat 21, Nov 2009, 14:03:27
i think i have narrowed it down to water lock from the ethenol in the gas, we have 10% here in NH.

Pardon the stupid question, but what do you mean by this?

Farther

I don't think your question is stupid.  Looking forward to the answer.
Thanks,
~Farther

X Ring

The ONLY stupid question is the one not asked.   :cooldude:
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

Tundra

#22
OK I give... I'm sick of working on this bike...again. I know you all can't be wrong, I'm going Pingle. Still having the same petcock problems, rebuilt twice. New #6 vacuum, new screen, checked tank venting. Still the same crap! The Pingle is cheaper than the Honda OEM!!! $92.00 polished aluminum, $101.00 chrome and $106.00 for OEM.
 Question, can I leave my engine hangers on and still operate the Pingle? I know this has been asked before also, what do you all cover the hole in the engine hanger with? Any thoughts on dressing it up a little?
TIA ;)
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

Farther

Have you checked and possibly replaced the tank vent line?
Thanks,
~Farther

Rocketman

Quote from: Tundra on Tue 15, Dec 2009, 06:49:30
  Question, can I leave my engine hangers on and still operate the Pingle? I know this has been asked before also, what do you all cover the hole in the engine hanger with? Any thoughts on dressing it up a little?
TIA ;)
I don't have engine hangers, and am not very familiar with them, but I can't imagine reaching in to the valve with hangers on there.  These: http://www.valkyrieblingandmore.com/pienhaco.html say they're built for use with the Pingel. 
To move the valve selector switch, you have to reach under the tank.  After using it once or twice, it becomes second nature, so that I don't think about it anymore.  But, with something blocking the hole, it would be difficult.  Not sure how Valkyrie Bling fixed the problem for the unit linked above.

Tundra

I heard milage changes, or actual reserve milage can/will change with the Pingle do to the shorter fuel pickup tube?  Is this a factor, or something to be concerned with? Does the Pingle come with a new screen and o-ring? Or even use a screen and o-ring?  Thanks all, just trying to get everything I need before my conversion. What about number 6 vacuum line, just remove and cap it?
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

MP

I have the Pingal, waiting to be put on.  I also have a new OEM petcock.  When I put them side by side, there is only a slight difference to the top of the tube.  Now, on the OEM, the screen continues up quite a ways above the tube top, while on the Pingel, it is only a little ways.  Is not the top of the tube where you normally take in gas?  Does not look like much difference on mine.
Also, the screen on the Pingel is MUCH coarser.  IMHO, if you use the Pingel, you NEED an additional inline filter, or you are just asking for particles to get stuck in the carbs.

MP

"Ridin' with Cycho"