Should I just leave well alone?

[..]

Bike is running like a jet. 70,000 miles. I've run it for the past 35,000 miles.

I bought some new spark plugs to put in before my summer trip.

I'm tempted to just leave the current plugs alone. Not even removing them to check the gap.

WWYD?

[Bighead]

Plugs these days most manufacturers say good for 100k. My bee with 120+k has only had one set and tbey looked fine when I changed them. But it cant hurt to change them.

[Tfrank59]

No it doesn't hurt to change them. It's so simple to do it. Plus you'll be able to see the color if it's tan on all 6. I just did mine the plugs only had 50k on them but a little more peace of mind seeing they were all tan and it actually runs slightly better with the fresh ones in there

[Jess from VA]

Go ahead.  Anti-seize the threads.

It's tough to tell the difference performance wise, but you may get an extra mile per gallon from them.

[Chrisj CMA]

And if you want even easier starts and a smoother idle index the plugs so they "spray" down and away from the cylinder wall.

[The emperor has no clothes]

And if you want even easier starts and a smoother idle index the plugs so they "spray" down and away from the cylinder wall.

I'm not understanding this. The cylinder wall is circular, how do you point it away ?

[Chrisj CMA]

And if you want even easier starts and a smoother idle index the plugs so they "spray" down and away from the cylinder wall.

I'm not understanding this. The cylinder wall is circular, how do you point it away ?

I mark where the spray direction is on the plug and then try to make sure its between 4 oclock and 8 oclock so its pointing down, pointing up is right against the cylinder wall

[Tfrank59]

How can you clock the spark plug around after you've compressed the washer and achieved the correct torque--add another washer?

[Chrisj CMA]

How can you clock the spark plug around after you've compressed the washer and achieved the correct torque--add another washer?

All plugs are different. I buy a couple extra and just move them around for the best fit. If one or two don't work out perfectly it's ok

You can buy copper washers made for this purpose but I have had decent luck with the above method

[mark81]

How can you clock the spark plug around after you've compressed the washer and achieved the correct torque--add another washer?

Use a sliding torque Scale with a large margin for variance based on feel instead of a calibrated torque wrench and factory specs

[Chrisj CMA]

How can you clock the spark plug around after you've compressed the washer and achieved the correct torque--add another washer?

Use a sliding torque Scale with a large margin for variance based on feel instead of a calibrated torque wrench and factory specs

Yes,this too. I never use a torque wrench. Snug is snug and a tad more snug is still ok

[..]

Popped out easy peasy.

I think they look pretty good.






I'll clean them and keep them as spares.

They are the Honda recommended grade.

[Tfrank59]

I never use a torque wrench. Snug is snug and a tad more snug is still ok
[/quote]

I don't use a torque wrench either, and I know what snug is, but once you reach snug you're not going to clock a plug around half a turn if you need to to get the electrode where you want it. You'd have to use a washer to clock it that much, or else have like you said lots of plugs to choose from. Honestly is it even worth the bother?

Okay so you got me curious Jeff, here's a YouTube that explains all the theory and even mentions a kit that you can buy to get the "grounding strap" pointed where it should be. (I erroneously called it the electrode that's the other part)  I still don't think I'm going to bother with it  
https://youtu.be/Ys4GnIk_YC0

[Chrisj CMA]

I never use a torque wrench. Snug is snug and a tad more snug is still ok

I don't use a torque wrench either, and I know what snug is, but once you reach snug you're not going to clock a plug around half a turn if you need to to get the electrode where you want it. You'd have to use a washer to clock it that much, or else have like you said lots of plugs to choose from. Honestly is it even worth the bother?

Okay so you got me curious Jeff, here's a YouTube that explains all the theory and even mentions a kit that you can buy to get the "grounding strap" pointed where it should be. (I erroneously called it the electrode that's the other part)  I still don't think I'm going to bother with it  
https://youtu.be/Ys4GnIk_YC0
[/quote]

I don't get as exact as he showed on that YouTube. I just try to get them all basically pointing down not up. I notice a very smooth idle and quicker starting.  It's worth a bit of time to me, I have never purchased them washers, my adjustments consist of moving the plug to a different cylinder until I'm happy with it.

[..]

Fresh front brake pads and a fluid flush.

Sixity front pads lasted for 20,000 miles. They get used hard. 

I flush the brake fluid twice a year.

[mark81]

I flush the brake fluid twice a year.

That seems overly excessive to me even if you ride 50k a year.

[rug_burn]

JUst out of curiosity-  how many turns (or fractions) does it take to tighten them all the way up after you make contact on the washer?   
Although they'd be fine either way, it seems like you want to leave them compressed on the first squeezing, so if you know how many quarter turns, let's say,  you could swap em around until they were all half a turn or whatever from where you wanted them, and then torque 'em all down, and leave them.   Best of both worlds. Yeah?

[..]

I flush the brake fluid twice a year.

That seems overly excessive to me even if you ride 50k a year.

It gets "brown" so I flush it.

Every time I do it I notice the fluid looks darker in color than viewing it through the glass on the reservoir.

[Chrisj CMA]

I flush the brake fluid twice a year.

That seems overly excessive to me even if you ride 50k a year.

It gets "brown" so I flush it.

Every time I do it I notice the fluid looks darker in color than viewing it through the glass on the reservoir.

If your brake fluid gets brown Gain in six months you are not doing a complete flush. If you only bleed out part of the line and replace the master cylinder fluid it won't take long for the old remaining stuff to contaminate the new

[..]

I flush the brake fluid twice a year.

That seems overly excessive to me even if you ride 50k a year.

It gets "brown" so I flush it.

Every time I do it I notice the fluid looks darker in color than viewing it through the glass on the reservoir.

If your brake fluid gets brown Gain in six months you are not doing a complete flush. If you only bleed out part of the line and replace the master cylinder fluid it won't take long for the old remaining stuff to contaminate the new

Reservoir and both brake lines. What else is there?

[..]

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cb67ff870023420a4187d/fr-brake-master-cyl

[Paladin528]

Go ahead.  Anti-seize the threads.

It's tough to tell the difference performance wise, but you may get an extra mile per gallon from them.

NGK spark plugs threads are already treated with anti seize.  No need to add any.  if you are installing the same plugs again then anti seize used sparingly is ok.

[h13man]

Iridium plugs, hand torque, solid core wire from Speedway used on spark plug wire rebuild, and Shell gas gives me the best results @ 3 mi. a gallon better on average. No after market anti seize and no "clocking".

I might add IF I can find a Shell station as they sparse in our area.