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Tech tip

Started by Chrisj CMA, Tue 20, Aug 2019, 19:49:28

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Chrisj CMA

Ok this is basic for those of us that have been around motorcycle maintenance for awhile. Sometimes this kind of info needs to be shared so those that are dangerous with tools can learn without the school of hard knocks.

For all screws on your Valkyrie. As a post on this page covers in detail it would be better to use the Japan screwdriver instead of a regular Philips. You can use a philips just be more careful. However the following insurance is always wise. And this goes for bolts and Allen heads as well.

Here goes. For any fasteners on the engine its best to try them the first time with a warm engine.

Before cranking on the bolt or screw. You put the wrench or screwdriver on it and tap a few solid taps with a mallet or small hammer. This can break the hold any corrosion built up can have on the fasteners

The warm engine helps the holes in the parts open slightly so it's not as tight

When re assembly use anti seize on the bolts that are prone to being stuck. Which is almost all of them

Learn how to judge tightness.  Bigger fastener = tighter. Also the job that fastener does matters. Like the caliper plate stopper bolt doesn't need to be cranked on. It's a pin. Snug plus a tiny bit (like a spark plug) is all it needs.

Drain plugs a tad tighter than that but don't strain tightening it

Axle nuts make sure they are clean and use a torque wrench to spec. Know which bolts need an accurate torque not many matter that much.

I felt I needed to post this because of the reported consequences of not knowing these things have been posted lately.

One more thing. With few exceptions. US tools (inches) don't work for metric (millimeter). Unless you really know what you are doing. Just get the metric tools. Nothing worse than working on parts that were previously worked on with the wrong tools.

Lastly keep the crescent wrench far far away from your Valkyrie


Jess from VA

Lastly keep the crescent wrench far far away from your Valkyrie

It's not a great tool for sure, but the one you really want to avoid is the channel locks.   :cooldude:


Screwing up all kinds of things for 100 years.   

hubcapsc


You put the wrench or screwdriver on it and tap a few solid taps with a mallet or small hammer.

I forgot to loosen my axle bolt before I lifted my 1800 yesterday when I took the front wheel off.

I put the big ratchet handle on it and bumped it loose with the rubber mallet without jiggling the
bike around on the stand...

-Mike

Steel cowboy

Chris, I've heard a lot about Japanese Philip screwdriver's. My question involves the tool kit on my Honda, is the Philip type screwdriver in the tool kit a Japanese style or American. Some bikes were made in America and some in Japan, were the Philip screwdrivers different. Just trying to get things in perspective. Thanks
2001 black interstate
2003 Jupiter Orange wing

Skinhead

It is my understanding that a #2 phillips can be modified to work as well as a JIS by grinding a small amount off the tip (if you are in a pinch and don't have a JIS or time to wait or buy one).  I've read that the JIS has a blunter tip than the #2 and therefore the #2 does not seat fully in the head of a JIS screw.  I don't know about the driver in the tool kit, but since it came with the bike I would assume it is JIS.

Friendsville, TN - Troy, MI

Chrisj CMA

Quote from: Steel cowboy on Wed 21, Aug 2019, 04:54:50
Chris, I've heard a lot about Japanese Philip screwdriver's. My question involves the tool kit on my Honda, is the Philip type screwdriver in the tool kit a Japanese style or American. Some bikes were made in America and some in Japan, were the Philip screwdrivers different. Just trying to get things in perspective. Thanks
I've never used the tools in the bike. They look like toys. If you tap the screwdriver with a mallet exert considerable pressure into the fastener as you try to break it free you should be successful with any screw on the bike. Don't do it this way on the brake m/c covers and you better have an easy out

Even though they were built in America parts are made in Japan and orders as assemblies many times or the part comes from Japan with the screws. I think all the screws on our bikes were Japan screws until we change them

hubcapsc

#6
I’ve never used the tools in the bike. They look like toys.

I love the tools in the tool kit... there's a low profile 10 that fits the lock
nut on the starter's hot-wire. There's an allen wrench with a shortened
ell that can reach up to the smog ports on the bottom of the engine. And
of course the screwdrivers fit the screws on the bike :coolsmiley: . The tool
kit is well planned out for what you'd need.

My 1800 came with an allen wrench for a tool kit. I sourced an older
Goldwing tool kit on eBay... made by the same company that makes
"regular" Japanese bike tools, but they're chromed... now that's
a nice tool kit  :cooldude:

-Mike

nogrey

I've done nothing but wrench on multi-million dollar imaging equipment for over 36 years. The kind of equipment that kills people if the engineer doesn't do his job correctly (kind of like a motorcycle could). It never ceases to amaze me how reading a post like this "refreshes" the memory. I guess another way to say it is that one should never stop learning. Thanks for the reminders and good tips. All of them.  :cooldude:

old2soon

            Key to Any fastener that has Not been removed in awhile is to take yer time. Besides the wrong tool being used getting in a hurry generally do NOT have a good outcome. I have tubes of that gold anti seize that git used frequently. I have a few 6 point sockets and box end wrenches for when Torque needs to be applied in either direction. 6 point sockets and box end wrenches much LESS apt to round off the fastener being cursed-er worked on.  :2funny: RIDE SAFE.
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion

Chrisj CMA

Quote from: Jess from VA on Tue 20, Aug 2019, 21:25:20
Lastly keep the crescent wrench far far away from your Valkyrie

It's not a great tool for sure, but the one you really want to avoid is the channel locks.   :cooldude:


Screwing up all kinds of things for 100 years.   

That's kinda funny. I do use channel lock pliers on the oil filter if it won't come off by hand. Funny how it goes on hand tight but usually won't come off by hand. My truck, no problem. The bike. I usually need the pliers

baldo

#10
I've found the Vessel line of screwdrivers to be the best I've ever used. There are several flavors, this one is made for impact use....

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_24?keywords=vessel+screwdriver&qid=1566393918&s=gateway&sr=8-24


Chrisj CMA

Quote from: baldo on Wed 21, Aug 2019, 07:21:00
I've found the Vessel line of screwdrivers to be the best I've ever used. There are several flavors, this one is made for impact use....

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_24?keywords=vessel+screwdriver&qid=1566393918&s=gateway&sr=8-24



Looks just like my favorite kobalt one from Lowe's

98valk

Quote from: Skinhead on Wed 21, Aug 2019, 05:13:38
It is my understanding that a #2 phillips can be modified to work as well as a JIS by grinding a small amount off the tip (if you are in a pinch and don't have a JIS or time to wait or buy one).  I've read that the JIS has a blunter tip than the #2 and therefore the #2 does not seat fully in the head of a JIS screw.  I don't know about the driver in the tool kit, but since it came with the bike I would assume it is JIS.


that is correct.

as per the link I provided in my thread http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107850.0.html.
go to any store and phillips are made to the DIN standard.  I know my low cost harbor freights are and work really well.

"Most JIS advertised screwdrivers sold today by companies like Vessel, Hozan, and others are actually conforming to a new standard: DIN 5260 which is identical (at the tip) to the newer ISO 8764-1."

"To date, I have only been able to find one confirmed manufacturer that still uses and builds to JIS B 4633, and that is SUNFLAG otherwise known as New Turtle in Japan:

http://www.sunflag.co.jp/english/company/company.html"

"The reason these companies have changed to DIN 5260/ISO 8764-1 is because the new standard is designed to work in both Phillips and JIS screws. For the most part that is true, it does work on both screw types, but like anything meant to work with multiple things, the middle ground means compromise. The JIS standard screwdriver will always outperform a DIN/ISO screw driver in the worst of conditions on a JIS screw, and the same is true in reverse."
http://rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-screwdrivers-and-where-to-buy-a-jis-screwdriver/
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Jess from VA

That's kinda funny. I do use channel lock pliers on the oil filter if it won't come off by hand. Funny how it goes on hand tight but usually won't come off by hand. My truck, no problem. The bike. I usually need the pliers

I do that too, if the filter is too tight for hands.  Works better than a strap wrench, and the filter can be destroyed since it's going in the trash anyway.  I only do hand tight, but it's always as tight as my hands will do.

Here's my Dodge truck filter.  A cartridge inside a housing, on TOP the engine.  And you need to cobble together a big socket, to a ujoint, to a stubby ratchet to get the cover off.


MarkT

#14
These Vessel JIS screwdrivers from Japan are also impact drivers.

I also use a Milwaukee electric M18 impact driver to spin off bolts I KNOW aren't seized - ones I remove frequently like to change tires, the axle nuts.  I'll also spin them on and start their torque with it, finish with a torque wrench.  I always take exhaust covers off with the impact driver - faster and if they break I don't care, the tips and muff covers aren't going back on anyway.  If you have to remove say a header stud which broke off - be sure you give it your best effort the first try.  If that effort fails, your second effort will have less purchase.  I'm talking about using a Dremel and abrasive wheel to make the parallel sides of the flattened stud as large as feasable and grip it HARD with the BIGGEST vise-grips.  Turn the vise grips at the jaw with a large Crescent wrench or the like. (About the ONLY valid use of a Crescent wrench on our Valks)  Or an open end wrench that fits the jaws of the vise-grips. Use penetrating fluid the first time if it will sink in - might not if it has to go vertically up.  The best penetrating oil there is, is a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid - this is by scientific test, google it.



Here's another very useful tool.  I have several applications for it in my processes.  Not to mention removing a stuck oil filter.



Another tool you should have.  This strap wrench comes in a kit of two - this is the smaller one.  I keep the bigger one in my bike tools - great for adjusting Progressive 444 shocks.  Or turning any larger round object with force that you don't want to mar.  Or opening a beer bottle.




Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4

Paladin528

Someone above mentioned that the tools in the bike "look Like Toys" and he never uses them.

Take a close look at the honda tool kit (any bike for that matter)

The wrenches in the kit are not normal average wrenches. they are different combnatins of sizes and styles to ensure you can do things like adjust the Throttle cables which requires two wrenches of the same size.  Every thing in the kit has multiple purposes.
The spark plug wrench is also your front axle wrench.  there is almost no job on the bike that cannot be done with the provided kit.  It may look cheap but it serves its purpose.

msb

Good tips indeed and a GREAT post, as it spawns even more good tips . Thanks for taking the time to share this knowledge. :cooldude:
Mike

'99 Red  & Black IS

Jess from VA

Standard MC tools are great, and fit most of what you need for ordinary maintenance.

But I don't think they were intended for constant use.

For instance, if you go into the service area of any MC dealer, you won't find any mechanics using therm. ;D  

Chrisj CMA

Well that's good then. My bike is 22 years old and the tools are still brand new  :crazy2:

Jess from VA

Quote from: Chrisj CMA on Thu 22, Aug 2019, 18:54:36
Well that's good then. My bike is 22 years old and the tools are still brand new  :crazy2:

Jeff, I don't think your bike has a cotter pin (or anything else) that doesn't look brand new.   ;D :cooldude: :cooldude:

Chrisj CMA

Quote from: Jess from VA on Thu 22, Aug 2019, 18:57:48
Quote from: Chrisj CMA on Thu 22, Aug 2019, 18:54:36
Well that's good then. My bike is 22 years old and the tools are still brand new  :crazy2:

Jeff, I don't think your bike has a cotter pin (or anything else) that doesn't look brand new.   ;D :cooldude: :cooldude:

Well it will in 30k miles. That's when the odometer goes to zero again. It was sure fun the last time it did that

Jess from VA

I just turned mine over (the first time) last week.

I had been hoping to watch it (but no photography).

Given my concentration level, I only missed it by 200 miles.   :2funny:

There's always next time.