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Timing belts photos

Started by .., Sun 12, Jan 2020, 12:36:30

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..

Recent posts here and elsewhere have got my tin foil hat slightly skewed.
I decided to take a look at mine.

After thoroughly cursing whoever last put the cover on the belts were revealed.

Are these Honda original belts?

They appear to be in pretty good condition?








As others have mentioned the inside of the cover had a thin black coating.

Good opportunity to give the cover a much needed clean in the usually inaccessible parts. Those areas will get a wax schmearing before reinstallation.

Jess from VA

Most belts, even used (like mine) are black.

I don't know where you can buy desert tan belts.   ;D

That looks like the famous GA red clay. 

I can't tell if they are original or not.

As far as I know Honda OE and Gates are the same belts.   

..

Quote from: Jess from VA on Sun 12, Jan 2020, 14:14:11
Most belts, even used (like mine) are black.

I don't know where you can buy desert tan belts.   ;D

That looks like the famous GA red clay. 

I can't tell if they are original or not.

As far as I know Honda OE and Gates are the same belts.   

Some dust seals are better than others. Added up it's been on about 250 miles of forest roads.

CoreyP

That belt looks perfectly good to me. I'm also thinking you got some red clay there, stuff gets everywhere. Looks like the tension is right.

My 2001 is up to about 40K and I think it has the original timing belts on it. I'm wondering if just because of age I should replace the belts. Looks easy compared to a car to change out. I did some reading on this forum and the answer were all over the place.

I'm going to check the belts just in case but I probably won't change them out?

..

Quote from: CoreyP on Sun 12, Jan 2020, 19:52:55
That belt looks perfectly good to me. I'm also thinking you got some red clay there, stuff gets everywhere. Looks like the tension is right.

My 2001 is up to about 40K and I think it has the original timing belts on it. I'm wondering if just because of age I should replace the belts. Looks easy compared to a car to change out. I did some reading on this forum and the answer were all over the place.

I'm going to check the belts just in case but I probably won't change them out?

I've been told by one person that tan was the OEM color.???

Valker

Quote from: Britman on Sun 12, Jan 2020, 20:42:47
Quote from: CoreyP on Sun 12, Jan 2020, 19:52:55
That belt looks perfectly good to me. I'm also thinking you got some red clay there, stuff gets everywhere. Looks like the tension is right.

My 2001 is up to about 40K and I think it has the original timing belts on it. I'm wondering if just because of age I should replace the belts. Looks easy compared to a car to change out. I did some reading on this forum and the answer were all over the place.

I'm going to check the belts just in case but I probably won't change them out?

I've been told by one person that tan was the OEM color.???
Nope. Mine were black.
I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.

Relax

If any doubt at all, replace it to get peace on mind  ;)
:)

DGS65

My 98 tourer had black belts from the factory I replaced them with black gates belts.  I still only have about 5000 miles but I changed the belts based on the age of the bike.

Jess from VA

It looks to me like they used to be black.

98valk

age has zero to due with replacing the belts, if it did, Honda would have required them to be changed. The belt materials do not degrade with age.

I believe this is the family of Gates belts the timing belts are.

https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-transmission/synchronous-belts/rubber-synchronous-belts/powergrip-gt-3-belts/p/9356-000000-000000
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Grandpot

Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.
:crazy2: Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.:crazy2:

..

Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 09:22:33
Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.

Yep, I need to get those ordered.

Jess from VA

Quote from: Britman on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 10:22:18
Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 09:22:33
Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.

Yep, I need to get those ordered.

There is apparently a way to rebuild the pulleys for a quarter or third the price of new ones.  Big BF did that at my house on both bikes a few years ago.  I watched him do it, but probably could not do it right myself.  There may be some info on this on here, somewhere.  

98valk

Quote from: Jess from VA on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 10:46:43
Quote from: Britman on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 10:22:18
Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 09:22:33
Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.

Yep, I need to get those ordered.

There is apparently a way to rebuild the pulleys for a quarter or third the price of new ones.  Big BF did that at my house on both bikes a few years ago.  I watched him do it, but probably could not do it right myself.  There may be some info on this on here, somewhere.  

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,103544.0.html
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

98valk

#14
Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 09:22:33
Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.

not your average timing belt,  they are the powergrip belts which are designed for 24/7 industrial operations.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=295870

Construction consists of these components:1.  Fiberglass Tensile Member — Provides high strength, excel-lent flex life and high resistance to elongation.2.  Neoprene® Backing — Strong Neoprene bonded to the tensile member for protection against grime, oil and moisture. It also protects from frictional wear if idlers are used on the back of the belt.3.  Neoprene Teeth — Shear-resistant Neoprene compound is molded integrally with the Neoprene backing. They are precisely formed and accurately spaced to assure smooth meshing with the sprocket grooves.4.  Nylon Facing — Tough nylon fabric with a low coefficient of friction covers the wearing surfaces of the belt. It protects the tooth surfaces and provides a durable wearing surface for long service.

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Grandpot

Quote from: 98valk on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 11:01:33
Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 09:22:33
Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.

not your average timing belt,  they are the powergrip belts which are designed for 24/7 industrial operations.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=295870

Construction consists of these components:1.  Fiberglass Tensile Member — Provides high strength, excel-lent flex life and high resistance to elongation.2.  Neoprene® Backing — Strong Neoprene bonded to the tensile member for protection against grime, oil and moisture. It also protects from frictional wear if idlers are used on the back of the belt.3.  Neoprene Teeth — Shear-resistant Neoprene compound is molded integrally with the Neoprene backing. They are precisely formed and accurately spaced to assure smooth meshing with the sprocket grooves.4.  Nylon Facing — Tough nylon fabric with a low coefficient of friction covers the wearing surfaces of the belt. It protects the tooth surfaces and provides a durable wearing surface for long service.



Are you saying these belts will never fail?  Nothing lasts forever.
:crazy2: Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.:crazy2:

John Schmidt

As I've stated on here in the past, an old Wing mechanic once told me the belts are guaranteed for the life of the engine.....you break a belt, that's the life of your engine. Personally I've always followed the 50K miles approach for replacement unless I happen to be in there for some other reason, at which time I'll switch them out. Generally speaking, these belts are designed for heavier duty application than their function on our motors. That still doesn't keep me from changing them as stated.

98valk

Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 20:39:22
Quote from: 98valk on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 11:01:33
Quote from: Grandpot on Mon 13, Jan 2020, 09:22:33
Unless there is a tooth missing, the appearance of a belt does not reveal its true condition.  They go from looking good to being broken without warning.  It's a good practice to replace them periodically.  The other piece that needs changing is the idler pulley.  They only fail when they are working.  Change them when you change the belts.

not your average timing belt,  they are the powergrip belts which are designed for 24/7 industrial operations.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=295870

Construction consists of these components:1.  Fiberglass Tensile Member — Provides high strength, excel-lent flex life and high resistance to elongation.2.  Neoprene® Backing — Strong Neoprene bonded to the tensile member for protection against grime, oil and moisture. It also protects from frictional wear if idlers are used on the back of the belt.3.  Neoprene Teeth — Shear-resistant Neoprene compound is molded integrally with the Neoprene backing. They are precisely formed and accurately spaced to assure smooth meshing with the sprocket grooves.4.  Nylon Facing — Tough nylon fabric with a low coefficient of friction covers the wearing surfaces of the belt. It protects the tooth surfaces and provides a durable wearing surface for long service.



Are you saying these belts will never fail?  Nothing lasts forever.

nope. they are just made to last. they are really low stress and low heat for the application in our engines. When Honda spec'd them out in '88 for their flagship motorcycle, offering a seven yr warranty, and only require an inspection at 100k miles, I think they knew the belts would last long. they are not the horror belts used by American cars in the '80s that needed change out at 50-60k miles which were more stressed and subject to underhood temps. higher temps can destroy many things much faster.

https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/powergripdrivedesignmanual_17195_2014.pdf
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798