sticky front brake

[dbyer58]

Hello....Last year when I took my Valk out of storage after the winter, I had to bleed the front brakes just to get it to move. For piece of mind I replaced the pads and blead the brake fluid. When taking it out of storage this year I had the same problem but no where near as bad. after a quick ride down the street all was good. Just for good measure I blead the break fluid again this year and when I was done the front breaks were sticking again. Once again a quick ride down the street and all seems well. My question .....is this a problem that needs fixing or is this common and it works it self out after a quick ride?

[Hook#3287]

I believe it has to do with the amount of crud buildup and temperature of the calipers, pistons and seals.

What matters is if the pistons retract enough so the pads are not putting force on the rotors when not being used.

I've found that sometimes if the bike is cold, the pads will grip, but will loosen up once warm.

In my opinion, it only needs fixing if they don't loosen up.

[da prez]

  Short version , Push the caliper pistons all the way in (be sure the master cylinder does not over flow) and pump out. Do it twice. Do both sides. If they free up , then you may be OK.  If they leak or stick , rebuild. After all , they are only brakes. 

                                                          da prez

[Gregory Scott 16248]

Front brakes sticking. I rebuilt both front calipers with new piston seals and replaced the brake lines with braided stainless steel. I put in new dot 4 brake fluid. Brakes were sticking and heating up, so I rebuilt the brake master cylinder and after rebuild I could not get the brakes to pump up. The brake leaver just went back and forth. I tried to pull brake fluid through the bleeders using my Mityvac vacuum pump, didn't work. next I tried to force the brake fluid back through the bleeder, didn't work. Finely I removed the little tab inside the bottom of the master cylinder called "Protector". Under that tab was a gob of harden dirt and old brake fluid covering the fluid return hole. Cleaned that off and reinstalled the "Protector" tab and was able to get the brake fluid to flow and the front brakes now work and don't stick. I never new what that little tab in the bottom of the master cylinder was for and it is not mentioned in the Honda repair manual.

[Jims99]

I have taken the pistons out of the calipers and used scotch bright pads to clean them up real good, then would buff them out to a super smooth finish. Done this on several bikes over the years and never had problems again. A little time consuming but very easy.

[Earl43P]

Push the pistons out using the MC just enough to clean them bright with a flat shoelace wet with brake fluid THEN push them all the way in. I would never push them in cruddy.  Clamp an old pad to keep them fully seated then flow new fluid through until clear.

If the pistons are so cruddy that the shoelace isn't enough, then using scotch-brite or very fine sandpaper is warranted, just clean and wet them with brake fluid before pushing them seated (then wipe excess).

These pistons come out easily enough if you need to replace the caliper seals. I use a deepwell socket that fits in the piston to wiggle them that last 1/4" out of the bore. Helps when reinstalling pistons too.

I second the idea of cleaning the spooge hole in the MC. When it clogs, pads drag or clamp tight like you described.

I would NOT ride it if I had to apply engine power to make the bike roll from stuck brakes, NOPE. Should be able to spin each wheel by hand (some brake drag is expected) after applying/releasing the brake.

I occasionally touch each rotor with a gloved hand after stopping. There's "hot from normal use" and there's "OMG that one is HOT". I've never needed an infrared thermometer to tell the difference, but some swear by them.

[Jess from VA]

After (mostly) sitting all winter (but with good brakes/bleed and fluid), my bike brakes and rotors like a good scrubbing with mild corrosive wheel cleaner (or S100 works great) and stiff bristle brushes (with eye protection), then hot soapy and water and a hose.   

[Gregory Scott 16248]

Push the pistons out using the MC just enough to clean them bright with a flat shoelace wet with brake fluid THEN push them all the way in. I would never push them in cruddy.  Clamp an old pad to keep them fully seated then flow new fluid through until clear.

If the pistons are so cruddy that the shoelace isn't enough, then using scotch-brite or very fine sandpaper is warranted, just clean and wet them with brake fluid before pushing them seated (then wipe excess).

These pistons come out easily enough if you need to replace the caliper seals. I use a deepwell socket that fits in the piston to wiggle them that last 1/4" out of the bore. Helps when reinstalling pistons too.

I second the idea of cleaning the spooge hole in the MC. When it clogs, pads drag or clamp tight like you described.

I would NOT ride it if I had to apply engine power to make the bike roll from stuck brakes, NOPE. Should be able to spin each wheel by hand (some brake drag is expected) after applying/releasing the brake.

I occasionally touch each rotor with a gloved hand after stopping. There's "hot from normal use" and there's "OMG that one is HOT". I've never needed an infrared thermometer to tell the difference, but some swear by them.

I didn't know it was called a "spooge hole" in the master cylinder. I know the piece that covers the hole is called "Protector" Item 11 Honda part # 45512-MA6-006 at partsfish.com

[Earl43P]

I didn't know it was called a "spooge hole" in the master cylinder. I know the piece that covers the hole is called "Protector" Item 11 Honda part # 45512-MA6-006 at partsfish.com

Dunno what youn's call it (grew up in Uniontown btw), maybe it's called the pressure relief or return port. They collect spooge. 

I rag out my old brake fluid, remove the protector, strip a wire, grab one strand and poke that hole.
Then spray brake cleaner through the spooge hole, rag the excess and let it evaporate before reinstalling protector and refilling.

[Pappy!]

I have the same problem as you do with almost yearly problems just after cold weather. Usually it is after I start noticing the garage floor sweating for a few days. I think the pistons get a touch rusty during this time. I always keep the engine started in a timely manner just never keep the brake pistons moving to keep that from happening.