Alternator not charging

[Gigz]

I have a 2001 Valkyrie Interstate with 65000 miles on the odometer. Last ride out and the charging system failed leaving me stranded. A good samaritan stopped and charged the battery up enough to get me home. Have removed the alternator and took it to be tested. Output was 14.5 volts on the bench. Reinstalled, added new battery. No charging. Fuses all look good. Fusible link good. Removed and cleaned negative terminal both ends. No change. Any suggestions?

[Bighead]

Yep put a new alternator in.

[Chrisj CMA]

The plastic connector that plugs into the back of the alternator gets pretty warm. I've seen two get hard and brittle and break inside creating a no charge situation.

[Gigz]

Yep put a new alternator in.

If the alternator tested good on the bench, why? Is it overcharging at 14+ volts?

[Gigz]

The plastic connector that plugs into the back of the alternator gets pretty warm. I've seen two get hard and brittle and break inside creating a no charge situation.

Is that the exciter wire? Any way to test that? If the condenser fails will that prevent the alternator from recognizing it needs to be doing it's thing?

[gordonv]

If the alternator produces 14V then it's working.

You said fusible link, you are referring to the dog bone 55A fuse? Without this one, you can't get power into the bike or battery.

You need a meter, which I take it you have. With some charge on the battery, the bike starts and runs.

Battery voltage before starting, then after.

You have the Service Manual?

I can't make the fiche to show up, but the alternator positive goes to the main fuse (dog bone), check the voltage on each side of it while running. You have 14 at the alt, so the alt side of the main fuse should be 14V also (top?). Then check the other screw (bottom) and you should have 14 V too. After that, if you have 14V then that should also be at the battery.

[vanagon40]

If the alternator produces 14V then it's working.

* * *

You need a meter . . . .

If you don't have a meter, you need one. Follow the advice from gordonv. Find out where the 14+ volts begins and ends. If you cannot find the 14.5v at the alternator output, maybe the bench test is suspect?

Good luck and WELCOME to the VRCC.

[Gigz]

If the alternator produces 14V then it's working.

You said fusible link, you are referring to the dog bone 55A fuse? Without this one, you can't get power into the bike or battery.

You need a meter, which I take it you have. With some charge on the battery, the bike starts and runs.

Battery voltage before starting, then after.

You have the Service Manual?

I can't make the fiche to show up, but the alternator positive goes to the main fuse (dog bone), check the voltage on each side of it while running. You have 14 at the alt, so the alt side of the main fuse should be 14V also (top?). Then check the other screw (bottom) and you should have 14 V too. After that, if you have 14V then that should also be at the battery.

Produced 14+ volts on a test bench. Will not produce voltage at all before and after reinstalling on bike. Yes I have a meter. Yes referring to 55A fuse. It's ok. Battery fresh off the tender 13+ volts. Bike starts and idles fine. Cannot get anything reading meter wise other than battery voltage which slowly falls as the bike idles. Revving above 1500 rpm produces no indication that the alternator is charging. Battery voltage will fairly rapidly drop below 12 volts at idle.

[Gigz]

If the alternator produces 14V then it's working.

* * *

You need a meter . . . .

If you don't have a meter, you need one. Follow the advice from gordonv. Find out where the 14+ volts begins and ends. If you cannot find the 14.5v at the alternator output, maybe the bench test is suspect?

Good luck and WELCOME to the VRCC.

Thanks for the welcome, appreciate that!
Yes, have a meter. Cannot get a reading other than battery level at all points of the circuit. I suppose the test could be suspect but the tech ran it twice while I watched. I went to the dealer and looked in their manual. Took pics of the wiring diagram. Seems to be a fuse I can't locate, yet, between the ignition and the back of the alternator on the exciter circuit. On the hunt for that. In the meantime I've removed the seat, fuel tank, battery, radiator overflow tank, the metal front where the seat lock is and the alternator to get a good look in that space. All looks fine so far...

[The emperor has no clothes]

Sounds like a dead alternator to me. You can get a 1500 GoldWing one $100 cheaper. You have to remove the 3 bolts, rotate it 30*, and reinstall the bolts. Might as well put in new alt. dampers also. You've already had it out and back in. You've got this licked.  

[Gigz]

Sounds like a dead alternator to me. You can get a 1500 GoldWing one $100 cheaper. You have to remove the 3 bolts, rotate it 30*, and reinstall the bolts. Might as well put in new alt. dampers also. You've already had it out and back in. You've got this licked.  

My problem with buying any new alternator is that I'll get it in and have the same problem I'm having now. Will be taking this alternator back to the shop for a retest and a free inspection before proceeding.

The dealer wants almost $600.00 for a new alternator  

[The emperor has no clothes]

Sounds like a dead alternator to me. You can get a 1500 GoldWing one $100 cheaper. You have to remove the 3 bolts, rotate it 30*, and reinstall the bolts. Might as well put in new alt. dampers also. You've already had it out and back in. You've got this licked.  

My problem with buying any new alternator is that I'll get it in and have the same problem I'm having now. Will be taking this alternator back to the shop for a retest and a free inspection before proceeding.

The dealer wants almost $600.00 for a new alternator  

I understand. Also a good alternator shop can rebuild them. I had one done in Amarillo for less than $300 if I remember correctly.

[Grandpot]

Voltage output is one measurement,  amperage is the other.   Together you get the wattage (power output).   Take the alternator to a shop that can test the wattage.  You can have the correct voltage when the alternator is not under load.

[hubcapsc]

I kept my eyes open for wrecked low-mileage bikes
on ebay. When the right one came along whose
non-unobtainium parts were selling for reasonable
prices, I bought the alternator... 20 or so K miles,
30 or 40 dollars, I don't remember. When my bike
got to 100,000 miles, I installed the low mileage
alternator (last September) and started looking
for another one... found one a few months ago,
it is sitting on the shelf...

I got new dampers when I made the swap   ...

Careful with that plastic chrome cover, it is very
expensive   ...

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

The alternator output is directly connected to the positive post of the battery.

So, if there is an absence of charging with an alternator that is good,

the problem is with the exciter side of the system and/or the connector on the alternator.

The exciter should energize with a turn of the key.

***

[Gigz]

The alternator output is directly connected to the positive post of the battery.

So, if there is an absence of charging with an alternator that is good,

the problem is with the exciter side of the system and/or the connector on the alternator.

The exciter should energize with a turn of the key.

***

That's what I was hoping to hear and my next check. Going to reconnect the battery and, with the alternator out, meter the exciter lead at the plastic plug. May also hit the starter briefly to be sure the alternator drive is spinning.

[indybobm]

Ricky-D, looks the alternator output goes through the 55 amp dog bone fuse before it gets to the battery. There also seems to be a 2 pin white connector under the seat that is part of the exciter circuit. There is a white wire coming off of the 10A ignition fuse that is connected to a splice where it changes to a Blk/LtGrn wire, to the 2P White connector and on to the alternator reg input.

[hal47]

Run a jumper wire from the + pole of batt. to the exciter on the back of the alt. should charge then if good.

[Gigz]

So...
I now have 13.8 volts coming off the alternator at idle and 14.2 at 1500 rpm.

I'm back in the saddle again!

Problem? A filthy plastic connector into the alternator. It was full of black road grime and what looked like white spider web material.

In the process of cleaning up the under bits of the bike and putting it back together.

Thanks to all who put in their 2 cents worth.

[The emperor has no clothes]

So...
I now have 13.8 volts coming off the alternator at idle and 14.2 at 1500 rpm.

I'm back in the saddle again!

Problem? A filthy plastic connector into the alternator. It was full of black road grime and what looked like white spider web material.

In the process of cleaning up the under bits of the bike and putting it back together.

Thanks to all who put in their 2 cents worth.

That's excellent ! I wish I'd thought beforehand, but I was pretty sure you needed a new one. With 65k on the clock, while you had it out would have been a good time to put in new brushes.

[Diesel]

So...
I now have 13.8 volts coming off the alternator at idle and 14.2 at 1500 rpm.

I'm back in the saddle again!

Problem? A filthy plastic connector into the alternator. It was full of black road grime and what looked like white spider web material.

In the process of cleaning up the under bits of the bike and putting it back together.

Thanks to all who put in their 2 cents worth.

When you say filthy plastic connector, you mean the white plastic part that plugs into the alternator?

[FLAVALK]

Anyone know if the $129 alternators on Fleabay are worth a damn. Seems too good to be true....you know what the say.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-Fits-HONDA-VALKYRIE-GL1500C-GL1500CD-GL1500CT-LR140-718C-31100MZ0-/291796442043?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[Chrisj CMA]

And people make fun of my cleanliness. Clean is more gooder

[Jersey]

And people make fun of my cleanliness. Clean is more gooder

I think it's "more betterer"...

[John Schmidt]

And people make fun of my cleanliness. Clean is more gooder

I think it's "more betterer"...

No, it's "mo betta"...   

[hubcapsc]

And people make fun of my cleanliness. Clean is more gooder

It would only count as making fun if your bike only had 2,000 miles on it.

-Mike

[Steel cowboy]

So I have another question. I once asked Grumpy why my alternator on my test stand was not putting out voltage. I know it was a good alternator I had as a spare. His reply was you have to energize the exciter circuit for it to put out voltage. I put a battery to the exciter wires and it put out power.
So am I correct in thinking that you could have a good alternator test bad if the person doing the test doesn't hook up the exciter wires to a 12 volt source

[Chrisj CMA]

And people make fun of my cleanliness. Clean is more gooder

It would only count as making fun if your bike only had 2,000 miles on it.

-Mike

[Challenger]

So I have another question. I once asked Grumpy why my alternator on my test stand was not putting out voltage. I know it was a good alternator I had as a spare. His reply was you have to energize the exciter circuit for it to put out voltage. I put a battery to the exciter wires and it put out power.
So am I correct in thinking that you could have a good alternator test bad if the person doing the test doesn't hook up the exciter wires to a 12 volt source

You are correct sir. And I've tested hundreds. One wire alternators will self excite at the proper rpm, but the rest need voltage on the exciter to start charging. Some will continue to charge after the exciter voltage is removed.

[Ricky-D]

Anyone know if the $129 alternators on Fleabay are worth a damn. Seems too good to be true....you know what the say.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-Fits-HONDA-VALKYRIE-GL1500C-GL1500CD-GL1500CT-LR140-718C-31100MZ0-/291796442043?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

You ought to be able to get your own alternator rebuilt for that $ or less, and then you'd have a known, and more reliable alternator, I would surmise.

[John Schmidt]

Steve, Ricky is right. I had a freebie given to me off a Wing, had no idea what was wrong with it...if anything. Took it to an outfit on Forsyth Rd. in Winter Park, had a broken winding wire which they fixed and installed bearings and brushes. Cost me something like $115 as I recall.

[gordonv]

Anyone know if the $129 alternators on Fleabay are worth a damn. Seems too good to be true....you know what the say.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-Fits-HONDA-VALKYRIE-GL1500C-GL1500CD-GL1500CT-LR140-718C-31100MZ0-/291796442043?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Here's my post on the issue.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107156.0.html

Didn't ride this year, so no new miles on the 2nd replacement.

I try to keep my eye open for a cheap original replacement, so I will have a spare. I broken my first one by not understanding what I was reading, and not just doing what I normally do, take something aparts unknown.