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Slippage

Started by Big Rig, Tue 28, Jul 2020, 11:37:59

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Big Rig

Just back from a 4 day ride.

Was in 5th gear running about 50, passing another vehicle going up hill and tweaked throttle as usual and rpm spun up and speed did not increase. The noticed when moving out from a stop vibration while releasing the clutch...

Bike just turned 80k...so is it time for a new clutch??

If so, how difficult is it to knock out??

Yes mechanically inclined...

The emperor has no clothes

Have you noticed any difference in the feel of the lever ? When my clutch rivets gave loose I didn't have any slippage like yours, but I'm sure it's possible. I'd be really surprised if your clutch plates were wore to the point of needing replaced. Haven't switched oils recently ? The clutch work isn't that bad. It's just a little tight working back there. Getting the clutch pack aligned correctly and back in can be a pain. One of our members graciously loaned me a spare hub and tools to help. If you have to tear into it maybe he will see this and help you also.

pancho

When was the pinion cup last looked at?
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

98valk

when was the last time the slave cylinder was flushed?  if never might be good to take apart and check to see if sludge built up.

normally the GL1500 Goldwig sites state the clutch is good for 300k miles, and that is even pulling a trailer and fully loaded.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Ricky-D

I'd change the oil first, and it would be a different oil too

because the oil is the probable culprit in your clutch slippage.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

98valk

Quote from: Ricky-D on Tue 28, Jul 2020, 13:29:52
I'd change the oil first, and it would be a different oil too

because the oil is the probable culprit in your clutch slippage.

***


agreed.     :cooldude:
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

yrunvs

When I got my Valk about a month ago I noticed slippage in the clutch upon hard acceleration I searched this sight and found that inside the clutch oil reservoir at the very bottom under a screwed in tab there is a very tiny return oil hole that needed to be thoroughly cleaned out which I did and voila! no more clutch slippage.
I'm no gynecologist but hey I'll take a look!

..

Quote from: Big Rig on Tue 28, Jul 2020, 11:37:59
Just back from a 4 day ride.

Was in 5th gear running about 50, passing another vehicle going up hill and tweaked throttle as usual and rpm spun up and speed did not increase. The noticed when moving out from a stop vibration while releasing the clutch...

Bike just turned 80k...so is it time for a new clutch??

If so, how difficult is it to knock out??

Yes mechanically inclined...

Oil MUST NOT have friction modfiers in it.

You DO NOT want to see energy conserving.

http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Lubrication/EnergyConserving.jpg

gordonv

It's been so long since this was mention, I had forgotten about the wrong oil and slipping.

My first thought was the pinion cup. But how long has it been since it slipped, more than a few 100 miles, and it most likely isn't this, since it's a mechanical issue (or could it??).
1999 Black with custom paint IS


Timbox

When the slippage happen from the shaft, is that a smooth slip or a ratcheting slip?  A smooth slip to me is the clutch loosing grip from the power being add.  The ratcheting slip is from the splines being warn or broken and not engaged causing a ratcheting effect that most riders can feel.  I have not owned a Valkyrie for long but on other shaft drive bikes this is the case.

The "ring" would cause the shaft slip feeling to be smooth?   Just trying to help trouble shoot the different feeling between clutch slipping and shaft drive slipping.

97 Valkyrie
2007 Bandit 1250S
Have owned too many bikes to list
Retired AF (Communications)

The emperor has no clothes

Quote from: Timbox on Thu 30, Jul 2020, 07:46:12
When the slippage happen from the shaft, is that a smooth slip or a ratcheting slip?  A smooth slip to me is the clutch loosing grip from the power being add.  The ratcheting slip is from the splines being warn or broken and not engaged causing a ratcheting effect that most riders can feel.  I have not owned a Valkyrie for long but on other shaft drive bikes this is the case.

The "ring" would cause the shaft slip feeling to be smooth?   Just trying to help trouble shoot the different feeling between clutch slipping and shaft drive slipping.


BigRig has been riding his Valkyrie for a long time. I'm 99.9% sure that he would be able to differentiate the two things. I suspect it's in the clutch master cylinder as yrunvs said, in the slave cylinder, or lastly the oil. (I doubt BigRig would use the wrong oil)

~ Ron ~

what oil are you guys useing?
~ Ron Pierce ~
~Ahwatukee, Arizona~
~VRCC 20050~
~TOI  27850 ~
~2000 Valkyrie / DFT ~

The emperor has no clothes

Quote from: shadow1~Arizona on Thu 30, Jul 2020, 10:25:11
what oil are you guys useing?

This is my choice because of the heat here. (I'm sure there will be many detractors soon)

~ Ron ~

~ Ron Pierce ~
~Ahwatukee, Arizona~
~VRCC 20050~
~TOI  27850 ~
~2000 Valkyrie / DFT ~

shadowsoftime

Quote from: Ricky-D on Tue 28, Jul 2020, 13:29:52
I'd change the oil first, and it would be a different oil too

because the oil is the probable culprit in your clutch slippage.

***


Exactly, friend has a valk trike and it started stuttering during take off and slippage, the oil was dirty, changed the oil and runs as it should.

Mofla

Speaking for my situation I was having slippage more in the lower years on hard acceleration  , didn't seem to effect higher speeds but because of the obvious issue I wasn't pushing it either . Then shortly thereafter the rivets gave way and the clutch lever wouldn't compress more than halfway and obviously wouldn't disengage making unrideable!
With help from fellow valk rider Disco I rebuilt it myself and I don't consider myself that mechanical ! Works like a dream & neutral has never been easier to find ! So yes , you can do it and actually will have to do it because you will find These bikes are older than lots mechanics that work on them !) This form is your best friend !  If I can help , holler ! Mofla123  :cooldude: