Final drive expert needed. (Solved)

[Jims99]

2000 interstate with about 66k miles. A couple months ago I started hearing a slight tick from rear when hot. Came home and parked it. The next ride, no noise and didn't come back for weeks. Started again a little louder so I removed wheel and final drive to inspect and put on new tire. Couldn't see anything wrong, bearings seem too, everything greased good, o-rings (red eye) still good, gear oil good. Noticed a tread on tire had split so thought, maybe. Regreased everything again and installed new tire and still made noise. Pulled u-joint and looks new so I did bearing mod. Noise stopped till I was halfway to savannah and started again. By the time I got home (650 miles) noise stopped. Next ride started right away again. Put new brakes and didn't help. Loosen everything back up and hit tire with rubber mallet while tightening axle. Noise stopped. Torqued and moved on to final drive nuts. Everything was quiet while on jack but once weight was back on it it started again. Louder when I hit brakes. I'm really getting bummed I can't figure this out.
Almost a binding sound now on every revaluation and worse with braking. Could the rim itself be bad? Can't see anything wrong and it's not warped but at this point?
Any clues or advice would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

[Chrisj CMA]

I diagnosed a similar ticking on a friends bike. Turned out the left rear bearing seat was wallowed out enough to allow the bearing to tic back and forth. A new wheel was needed to fix the tic tic.  

[Jims99]

I diagnosed a similar ticking on a friends bike. Turned out the left rear bearing seat was wallowed out enough to allow the bearing to tic back and forth. A new wheel was needed to fix the tic tic.  

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I have another rim, but I believe it's a 1J and the interstate is a 2J I'll have to check on that later. I hope it's simple (aside from switching tire and bearings) but I hate to do that and not fix it. Thanks, you confirmed one of my suspicions.

[Chrisj CMA]

I diagnosed a similar ticking on a friends bike. Turned out the left rear bearing seat was wallowed out enough to allow the bearing to tic back and forth. A new wheel was needed to fix the tic tic.  

.
I have another rim, but I believe it's a 1J and the interstate is a 2J I'll have to check on that later. I hope it's simple (aside from switching tire and bearings) but I hate to do that and not fix it. Thanks, you confirmed one of my suspicions.

J1 and J2 are interchangeable if they are wearing their correct brake disks

[Valker]

Did I miss that you checked the drive shaft and pinion cup?

[Jims99]

Did I miss that you checked the drive shaft and pinion cup?

Shaft and pinion were removed and greased. Replaced all o-rings with red eyes and all looked great.

[Rio Wil]

If you have the opportunity to check the ujoint again....put one end in a vice and a big pair of chanellocks on the other and twist back and forth to see if there is any play...

[Bagger John - #3785]

Is the ticking constant, or does it come and go with application of throttle? Change character as the clutch is released or engaged?

[Savage]

I had the same issue and it went the way Chris explained.
I did not find the wallowed out wheel bearing pocket in time to remedy - it resulted in major damage.

[Madmike]

If that bore is worn is theer enough meat there to allow it being turned out and a sleeve installed??

[Chrisj CMA]

If that bore is worn is theer enough meat there to allow it being turned out and a sleeve installed??

I don't think so. It's surprisingly fragile inside there

[Skinhead]

I believe MI member, Romeo, had this problem, we chased it for quite some time, and then finally JB welded the bearing in it's pocket.  I believe it was on a wheel that he had chromed, and the bearing would slip right out of the pocket.  Let it set up completely before riding, but I believe that solved the problem for him.  Gary, sound off if I'm mistaken.

If it is the left side bearing, I would do the double row mod while you're messing with it.

[John Schmidt]

If that bore is worn is theer enough meat there to allow it being turned out and a sleeve installed??

I don't think so. It's surprisingly fragile inside there

Not sure how it was done but my chromed rear wheel bearings pockets were repaired. Happened years ago when I had the wheels chromed and the rear came back totally eaten out. Needless to say, I blew my stack and sent it back...COD. The shop sent it out and whoever did it did an outstanding job, it has never given me a problem since. I know it wasn't a replacement wheel because I had marked both wheels prior to sending them and they came back the first time as the same wheels. When the rear was repaired, it also came back. Like I said, I don't know how they did it but it was in really bad shape, over half the bearing "cup" was eaten out...especially on the left side.

As a temporary fix at one of the InZanes years ago, I know Big BF cut a strip of a beer can and pressed it in along with the bearing. I understand it got the rider home and was run that way for quite some time.

[Jims99]

Is the ticking constant, or does it come and go with application of throttle? Change character as the clutch is released or engaged?

Noise is constant and now am 85% sure it's the rim.

I did the bearing mod and didn't help. Wood recommend a loctight product for loose bearings I'm thinking about trying. I may just go with a new rim and not have to worry if this stuff lasts.

[Valker]

Is the ticking constant, or does it come and go with application of throttle? Change character as the clutch is released or engaged?

Noise is constant and now am 85% sure it's the rim.

I did the bearing mod and didn't help. Wood recommend a loctight product for loose bearings I'm thinking about trying. I may just go with a new rim and not have to worry if this stuff lasts.

Did you check to see if something fell INTO the rim? There are holes that let that happen.

[hubcapsc]

Is the ticking constant, or does it come and go with application of throttle? Change character as the clutch is released or engaged?

Noise is constant and now am 85% sure it's the rim.

I did the bearing mod and didn't help. Wood recommend a loctight product for loose bearings I'm thinking about trying. I may just go with a new rim and not have to worry if this stuff lasts.

Did you check to see if something fell INTO the rim? There are holes that let that happen.

I fumbled my valve stem cap and got nothin' but net on one of those
holes. I was worried I'd hear it, but not. I bet the right thing would make
a noise in there...

-Mike

[Jims99]

Finally! Figured it was definitely the left side of rim. When I did the bearing mod I noticed the left came out and went in fairly easy. The last time I pulled it apart to use the recommended loctight product (thanks Wood Butcher) the bearing came out easily. Put it back with another new bearing and loctight (went in by hand) let it sit a few days to dry good and so far so good. I haven't put a lot of miles on it yet but will this weekend. Even if it doesn't hold, at least I know exactly what it is now. Thanks for y'all's help. It was driving me crazy. 

[F6BANGER]

Did you use BLUE Loctite or Red?  Getting ready to do the same thing. Thanks

[ridingron]

Green?

[Jims99]

The green. Has good reviews and so far so good.

[Dusty]

Another fix for a loose bearing is to use a spring loaded center punch and center punch in the bore  of the wheel  30  or forty times all through the wheel bore.  I usually do  ten or twelve lines  with 4 pops to a line. Center punching raises the edge of the  punched hole and makes the bore diameter smaller so the bearing fits tighter.  You will be amazed how well it works . Done it lots of times over the years.

Dusty