pinion gear

[turtle254]

My pinion gear is shot. What years drive shaft fits 1998 std? I guess I'm going to have replace drive shaft and cup to fix this problem. Any suggestions? I assume the nut for cup will come easily?
Charlie   

[hubcapsc]

There's a TON of posts about this - not that you shouldn't ask, just,
there's lots more to see and read other than this little bit I'm posting
here...

All years driveshafts are functionally equivalent.

Get both a driveshaft and a cup, and also the seal on the shaft at the cup.

The cup will come off and go back on with an air gun. I don't have a clue
as to how you might put it back on at the right torque with an air gun.

There's three degrees of freedom on the cup nut. If you try to loosen it,
the internal gears will just transfer over to the spinning flange gear, getting
you nothing. If you can hold the flange gear, then the whole case will want
to spin, getting you nothing.

When we did it recently at Stanley Steamer's house, I brought over an old
flange, and we drilled holes that matched the fingers on the flange in a
stout piece of plywood. Then we screwed the piece of plywood to Stanley's
deck next to the building.  That defeated two degrees of freedom, and we
could both loosen the cup nut and torque it back at the end...





-Mike

[turtle254]

how about just using the wheel to hold it? Will a used pumpkin match up to my old wheel gear?

[rug_burn]

That's actually a pretty easy job, if you have a 1/2" air impact wrench.    And comparing it to a chain driven bike with the approximately $125-$150 cost for a new chain,  a new driveshaft, seal, and cup are cheaper..!
   
You can probably get an impact wrench from Harbor freight   (forgive me for sayin' that)  for not too much, and then you got one.

Good luck.

[turtle254]

What torque to use to put back on?

[hubcapsc]

108 N.m (11.0 kgf-m, 80 Ibf-ft)

[turtle254]

108 N.m (11.0 kgf-m, 80 Ibf-ft)

Thanks

[0leman]

Several years ago, I replaced my pinion cup.  I found a strap type wrench to hold the cup while using a air impact gun to take the nut off.  Used the same method to put it back on. 

[turtle254]

Several years ago, I replaced my pinion cup.  I found a strap type wrench to hold the cup while using a air impact gun to take the nut off.  Used the same method to put it back on. 

Using the wheel to hold the pumpkin and some wooden boards in the slots of the wheel to lock the pumpkin, the nut came off with an air wrench.
Thanks to all for the help
Next is trying to get that axle and pumpkin back in the swing arm. Took me half a day the last time and I still don't know why it suddenly went home. I wished I could find the trick, tryed hold it high like Meyer said, and that didn't help. Really dreading this part of the fix.

[Chrisj CMA]

I just put the flange in the pumpkin flange facing up. Then put a piece of wood across holding against two opposing pins stabilized with my foot and let the impact driver rip

[hubcapsc]

I just put the flange in the pumpkin flange facing up. Then put a piece of wood across holding against two opposing pins stabilized with my food and let the impact driver rip

The first time I did it, I just took the pumpkin over to my
buddy Dan's house and he stuck his air impact wrench on
there and BRRRRRppp'ed it right off, didn't hold anything.
BRRRRppp'ed it right back on too. Too tight, though. Later,
when I refurbished some Valkyrie final drives and was figuring
out ways to re-torque the nut properly, I found that I couldn't
remove that one. During that time I was getting the guy down
at the NAPA machine shop to press out and back in ring gear
splines for me, and he used his 1000 horsepower air gun
to remove it for me. I don't know how to re-torque the nut
properly with an air impact gun...

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

I just put the flange in the pumpkin flange facing up. Then put a piece of wood across holding against two opposing pins stabilized with my food and let the impact driver rip

The first time I did it, I just took the pumpkin over to my
buddy Dan's house and he stuck his air impact wrench on
there and BRRRRRppp'ed it right off, didn't hold anything.
BRRRRppp'ed it right back on too. Too tight, though. Later,
when I refurbished some Valkyrie final drives and was figuring
out ways to re-torque the nut properly, I found that I couldn't
remove that one. During that time I was getting the guy down
at the NAPA machine shop to press out and back in ring gear
splines for me, and he used his 1000 horsepower air gun
to remove it for me. I don't know how to re-torque the nut
properly with an air impact gun...

-Mike

My impact driver is a cheap cordless. I doubt it has the power to over torque it by much. But it takes them off so I know it's tight enough. Not that critical.

[hubcapsc]

Not that critical.

I wonder what makes the torque on the pinion cup nut "not critical"
and the torque on the axle "critical"? Anywho... I hated "too tight",
especially on that day it was "critical" to get my pinion cup off
or else start using my spare final drive... which I resorted to.

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

Not that critical.

I wonder what makes the torque on the pinion cup nut "not critical"
and the torque on the axle "critical"? Anywho... I hated "too tight",
especially on that day it was "critical" to get my pinion cup off
or else start using my spare final drive... which I resorted to.

-Mike

The axle nut needs to be at least 81#. A little over is not going to hurt. This is to insure the integrity of the torque line. Way too much is not good but 81-90ish anywhere in there will work. Same with the pinion cup. I know my cordless impact is setting that nut at least at spec probably a few# over but that is the part that's not critical

[rug_burn]

As far as why it suddenly "went home" or went together, that may be because you couldn't get the drive shaft into the u-joint up by the trans, like maybe the splines were not meshing or the u-joint was laying over at a weird angle..  Saving the old driveshaft for a u-joint alignment tool helps.