Final Drive Bolt Conundrum

[pais]

I am in the midst of a tire change , spline lube etc. As I was going through the process as can be seen in the pic. The lower outside bolt turned out rather than just the nut loosening and coming off. How big a deal is this? I am thinking once I get the nut loosened and workable. I can turn the bolt back in by stacking two nuts on the bolt?
All 4 nuts were very tight. 3 of them came off and this one 

[hubcapsc]

I think it is great when a stud comes out without breaking  ...

Anywho... if you can't get the nut off without messing the nut and the stud
up, just get new ones. I guess someone else put the four nuts on so tight?
Or it has been a long time since they've been off?

-Mike

[pais]

Hub, you are correct when you say, " it is great when a stud comes out without breaking." 
Great point! 

I have owned the bike for 10 years now. The last service was done by someone else. This is the 3rd tire change / service for the bike, during those 10 years.

[mello dude]

Not a big deal, but suggest you get a new stud, do the double nut thing, use red locktite and seat the stud solid like factory.....why? So when you are putting it back together, you are ensuring final torque is on the exposed threads and not on the stud threads in the drive case.......I did similar on mine.....

[RonW]

I am thinking once I get the nut loosened and workable. I can turn the bolt back in by stacking two nuts on the bolt?

agreed, take the nut off the stud, then reinstall the stud back to the original position. There's a similar situation when removing the nuts for the exhaust header. The exhaust nut gets seized to its stud and the stud unscrews when you turn the exhaust nut. In that situation you can leave the seized nut on the stud and install them as as a unit as if they were a bolt. But the torque for the exhaust nut is like 7ft-lbs or sumpthing. You don't want to do the 47-ft lbs torque per manual on the final drive stud (steel) since it's steel into aluminum (pumpkin) connection and the possibility of stripping or deforming the aluminum internal treads. Whereas, if the final drive nut screws onto a stationary stud, it's a metal to metal torque.

What's the correct torque for the stud then? Probably a tad over 47-ft lbs or take a reading on the studs that remained in place. Other members might chime in on that.

[mello dude]

I am thinking once I get the nut loosened and workable. I can turn the bolt back in by stacking two nuts on the bolt?

agreed, take the nut off the stud, then reinstall the stud back to the original position. There's a similar situation when removing the nuts for the exhaust header. The exhaust nut gets seized to its stud and the stud unscrews when you turn the exhaust nut. In that situation you can leave the seized nut on the stud and install them as as a unit as if they were a bolt. But the torque for the exhaust nut is like 7ft-lbs or sumpthing. You don't want to do the 47-ft lbs torque per manual on the final drive stud (steel) since it's steel into aluminum (pumpkin) connection and the possibility of stripping or deforming the aluminum internal treads. Whereas, if the final drive nut screws onto a stationary stud, it's a metal to metal torque.

What's the correct torque for the stud then? Probably a tad over 47-ft lbs or take a reading on the studs that remained in place. Other members might chime in on that.

Essentially what I said,  but Ron did a far better explanation...

[Chrisj CMA]

Yes to double nuts yes to red lock tite. No to 47lbs.

The torque setting on the stud is irrelevant. Just nice and tight. If you just must use a torque wrench I'd be between 20 and 30lb

[da prez]

My two cents worth. Run a tap in the hole to clean out all the old locktite.  Putting the stud back in will push the old locktite to the bottom and it may not seat. I tap , blow out , brake clean and blow out again. Wire wheel the stud after removing the nut. I would reuse the stud. Proper assembly  will make the next job easier.

                da prez

[pais]

Thank you for all the info!
Looking like rain today so I will be able to work on it for awhile.

[mello dude]

My two cents worth. Run a tap in the hole to clean out all the old locktite.  Putting the stud back in will push the old locktite to the bottom and it may not seat. I tap , blow out , brake clean and blow out again. Wire wheel the stud after removing the nut. I would reuse the stud. Proper assembly  will make the next job easier.

               da prez

I like the thread clean out idea....except I think I would use a thread chaser tool instead of a tap so I'm not cutting new metal in the pumpkin...I use these a lot when replacing bolts/studs...(example: replacing rotors on a wheel)....I bought the chaser set on Amazon....

Btw....great stuff guys!  

[Pluggy]

The threaded holes in that casting are the "close fit" thread size. Running a standard tap in there will open the hole and eliminate this useful feature.  A new M10-1.25 bolt going in and out of the hole should be like your thread chaser.  Flushing the hole with brake cleaner will likely lift out some dirt or debris.  Cleaning the hole and installing a new stud and nut is the correct rerpair and not expensive (compared to the price of that new tire).

[da prez]

I do not know how to post photos yet. If you take a bolt and use a hacksaw on the first three or four threads perpendicular to the bolt. You now have a thread chaser.

                                                        da prez

[Jess from VA]

My experience hacksawing a good bolt is...... you have a shorter ruined bolt.   

[pais]

New stud installed. All is good!
Thanks for all the help guys.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I like the thread clean out idea....except I think I would use a thread chaser tool instead of a tap so I'm not cutting new metal in the pumpkin...I use these a lot when replacing bolts/studs...(example: replacing rotors on a wheel)....I bought the chaser set on Amazon....

This board needs a "Like" button.

The C14's front motor mount bolt holes are also "close fit". I learned this the hard way on one, but was able to rectify my sins on the other by getting a set of thread chasers.

(Yes, I'm always looking for excuses to buy tools... )