Won’t Start

[Ron in Buffalo]

Hi everyone-(1997 Tourer 34k)spent the week at Mid Ohio Vintage days. Put over 800 miles on it last week. I was 35 miles from home, filled it up would not start Dead. Check wiring and fuses
on the right side of the battery and found a loose connector put it back together. Still would not start.(starter dead)The starter is dead hit the start switch nothing. Check other connector and fuses not sure where to start. Not only there is response from the starter but the headlight is not working on dim or brights. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

[Valker]

Along with the headlight issue, it really sounds like the starter button needs serviced.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

[RonW]

Agreed, the symptoms sounds like the start button. You're looking for a sunken copper bridge as the culprit on the start button's movable contact. It's accessible by taking
off the white box in the bottom pics. You'll have to take the Right-side clamshell on the handlebar apart to begin of course.




4 barbs clip the white box to the stationary contact plate (black lid).

[Chrisj CMA]

I agree with starter button maintenance IF. The battery cables are checked and tight. Also function the kill switch a thousand times and see if that's it

[..]

Be very careful with the little spring in the starter switch.

BOING and it's gone for ever.

[Steel cowboy]

Would jumping the starter solenoid get the starter to work as long as you are in neutral withe starter switch on run and key on. Like my old ford van, lol Just asking.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Black and yellow Standard with a For Sale sign on it?

If so...I SEENT IT! The only one there on Friday, I might add.

As others have suggested, look at the starter switch.

[JimC]

You did not mention if you checked the battery ?
If not, there is the possibility that the alternator failed and you drew the battery down to nothing, or it has a short.

Jim

[RonW]

Would jumping the starter solenoid get the starter to work as long as you are in neutral withe starter switch on run and key on.


Absolutely, that's the equivalent of bench testing the starter motor individually, transmission should be in neutral but the key doesn't have to be ON. That connects the battery directly to the starter motor, something the starter relay was suppose to do internally. Btw, you can't use a screwdriver to bridge the posts on the starter relay due to a *safety wall* between the two posts. Instead use extra heavy gauge wire or jumper cables. I guess you could tap the cables together but I would loosen only the M cable. The B cable is live and if you accidentally touch metal with the B cable it might blow the main fuse.

[mello dude]

You did not mention if you checked the battery ?
If not, there is the possibility that the alternator failed and you drew the battery down to nothing, or it has a short.

Jim

Agree with that.... battery dead?

[RonW]

Also, would like to know which specific connector (quote below). Perhaps the color of the wire the connector was on.

..... on the right side of the battery found a loose connector.

[Ron in Buffalo]

Also, would like to know which specific connector (quote below). Perhaps the color of the wire the connector was on.

..... on the right side of the battery found a loose connector.

I don't know how to post a picture.  But the picture showing how to by pass the starter button. A white connector was separated from a green block.

[..]

Also, would like to know which specific connector (quote below). Perhaps the color of the wire the connector was on.

..... on the right side of the battery found a loose connector.

I don't know how to post a picture.  But the picture showing how to by pass the starter button. A white connector was separated from a green block.

If I can do this.....................

https://postimages.org/

Create an account using the SIGN UP box top right.

Create a new gallery by clicking on the box towards the top left

Upload photos. Do a max of up to 15 at a time or it can take too long.

Once uploaded put your cursor on the image you want to put on the VRCC forum

Now move your cursor to the symbol to left of the trash bin symbol
Click on it
Now copy the "Hotlink" for forums.

Now go to the VRCC post you want the photo to appear in and right click and paste.

Once you then post your comment the photo should appear for all to see.

[Ron in Buffalo]

Also, would like to know which specific connector (quote below). Perhaps the color of the wire the connector was on.

..... on the right side of the battery found a loose connector.

I don't know how to post a picture.  But the picture showing how to by pass the starter button. A white connector was separated from a green block.

Britman- I don't participate with anything that involves a credit card.

If I can do this.....................

https://postimages.org/

Create an account using the SIGN UP box top right.

Create a new gallery by clicking on the box towards the top left

Upload photos. Do a max of up to 15 at a time or it can take too long.

Once uploaded put your cursor on the image you want to put on the VRCC forum

Now move your cursor to the symbol to left of the trash bin symbol
Click on it
Now copy the "Hotlink" for forums.

Now go to the VRCC post you want the photo to appear in and right click and paste.

Once you then post your comment the photo should appear for all to see.

[Ron in Buffalo]

You did not mention if you checked the battery ?
If not, there is the possibility that the alternator failed and you drew the battery down to nothing, or it has a short.

Jim

Voltage on battery is 12.81.

[GWS]

As mentioned above, check the simple things first like battery cable and other connections, but it does sound like a starter button issue. It's one of the few weak links on these bikes. Just take the switch apart and you'll know immediately. I fixed mine and I'm an imbecile.

But remember, step one is to cover the tank with a towel. Don't ask.....

[RonW]

I don't know how to post a picture.  But the picture showing how to by pass the starter button.
 

• A white connector was separated from a green block.

I don't know anything about a *white connector?* But if instead you meant a *white wire,* there should not be a white wire plugged into the green thingie. The colors of the oem wires are like in the pic below. Note: the yellow wire with a red stripe could be on the Left instead of the Right. I just guessed the orientation in the mockup. The green wire with red stripe could be on the Right. Btw, I'm assuming you do have a red cap plugged into the green thingie?

[Ron in Buffalo]

Agreed, the symptoms sounds like the start button. You're looking for a sunken copper bridge as the culprit on the start button's movable contact. It's accessible by taking
off the white box in the bottom pics. You'll have to take the Right-side clamshell on the handlebar apart to begin of course.




4 barbs clip the white box to the stationary contact plate (black lid).

Still won't start. I took the starter switch out and cleaned it. The "copper bridge" looked chewed up. I cleaned it the best I could put it back together ands the starter button is dead. However the bike did start when I jumper between the two post so the starter works. Do I just buy a new switch? Or is their something else I can do?

[Chrisj CMA]

The little brass thingy has to be able to bounce up and down on it's spring. I usually have to trim a little plastic with an exacto knife. If it's stuck in there it still won't work even if it's clean

[RonW]

If the copper bridge hasn't melted into the nylon substrate like the pic below, it may still be fixable. *Fixable* doesn't equate to being *reliable* though. In order replace the push button you'd have to buy the entire Right side clamshell.

[Ron in Buffalo]

I just order a new unit yesterday. I took in consider reliability issues if I did get it to work. I took a small exacto  knife and move a bunch of plastic and could not get the "copper bridge"
free to float -  decided I would feel better with a new switch on it. Thanks everyone.

[RonW]

Good move!

I temporarily just replaced the push button along with its white box to get the bike running (sorta plug n' play). Later, I installed the entire clamshell unit.

[RonW]

Btw, if the throttle cables give you trouble when replacing the Right clamshell, check back and inquire how to get more slack in the cables.