Inzane 17

Rear Wheel Bearing Install

Started by pais, Thu 28, Jul 2022, 05:30:23

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pais

Yesterday after work, I pulled my new bearings from the freezer and headed to the garage.
I started with the drive side - double bearing.
Made sure the bearing seat was nice and clean, wiped a bit of 3in1 oil on the bearing and seat.
Set the bearing and used a block of wood and a hammer. The bearing went in very easily. Definitely can feel and hear when the bearings seats. Checked the bearing for smoothness and function, like a babies bottom.
Flipped the wheel, inserted the spacer / sleeve. Same routine. Single bearing went in on disc side as easy. Followed up with dust cover.
Checked the bearing and low and behold it would not spin? Also noticed that the spacer was tight and had no play in it like it should.  >:( 
Any thoughts on where I went wrong? 
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!


Valker

Sounds like the spacer tube is slightly off kilter. Can you see through it?
I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.

pais

Quote from: Valker on Thu 28, Jul 2022, 06:18:43
Sounds like the spacer tube is slightly off kilter. Can you see through it?

Soooo simple, I got pissed and walked away last night.
Literally just went out and looked through the spacer. I could see through it fine but you could tell it was off by a hair. Took a 1/2" drive extension and wiggle it inside spacer and it dislodged. Spacer has the play it should and bearing is as smooth as a babies rear.

Thanks Valker!   :cooldude:
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!


Chrisj CMA

The dust seal should be flush with the outer edge of the hub but should not be touching the bearing. If it is the bearing isn't fully seated.

franco6

 The double bearing mod is total loss of time and money . I did it twice, spacer and all ,few thousand miles later, failure. Went back to single Timken bearing many thousands of miles , no more headaches  :2funny:
Enjoy the ride!

Jess from VA

If you stick the axle through the wheel without the spacer, it will all be easily lined up.  Then pull the axle back out just enough to fit the spacer in, and it will still be all lined up.   

This helps with handling/lifting the heavy wheel/tire, which can lead to a crooked reassembly. 

pais

Quote from: Chrisj CMA on Thu 28, Jul 2022, 07:23:59
The dust seal should be flush with the outer edge of the hub but should not be touching the bearing. If it is the bearing isn't fully seated.

Read this and got nervous. Had to know. Went out and checked and all is well. Thanx!
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!


Chrisj CMA

Quote from: pais on Sat 30, Jul 2022, 06:11:46
Quote from: Chrisj CMA on Thu 28, Jul 2022, 07:23:59
The dust seal should be flush with the outer edge of the hub but should not be touching the bearing. If it is the bearing isn't fully seated.

Read this and got nervous. Had to know. Went out and checked and all is well. Thanx!

Once the wheel is installed the bearing is fully seated or it wouldn't go back together. It's better for the bearing to get fully seated with a driver tool or large socket (1 5/16) exerting force on the outer race rather than the bikes spacer forcing it in using the inner race. That puts excessive lateral force on the bearing

John Schmidt

Quote from: franco6 on Thu 28, Jul 2022, 10:13:23
The double bearing mod is total loss of time and money . I did it twice, spacer and all ,few thousand miles later, failure. Went back to single Timken bearing many thousands of miles , no more headaches  :2funny:
Not if you do it right, including seating the bearing correctly...often the reason for failure. I've done it on three different Valks with subsequent miles from 40k to more than double that.

h13man

You only apply pressure to the outer part of the bearing race thus using a piece of wood isn't the proper way.