Rear Caliper Rebuild

[Bor]

Planning to rebuild the rear brake caliper over the winter (front calipers too.) FSM says to pull the rear wheel to remove the rear caliper. Is it possible to remove the caliper without pulling the wheel?

Thanks,

[Valker]

If you're careful, you can just pull the axle out partially and maybe get the caliper out with the wheel still there.

[hubcapsc]

Depending upon your procedure, I believe what Valker said would work...

I bet I could take the caliper off the bike at this point...

Not everyone works on the rear end the same way, you can see that
my shocks are off and the wheel is resting on the ground with no
forces preventing me from sliding the axle in and out...



-Mike

[agrady1995]

WTF? Rear.. Brake.. Caliper..? Just undo the brake line, then undo the 12mm bolt at the top left (if facing the caliper, looking at the side of your tire) and then between the aluminum plate and the caliper, use an open ended 10mm wrench to unscrew the second pin. Then take it off of the bike... Why are yall talking about undoing the axles?

[Grandpot]

WTF? Rear.. Brake.. Caliper..? Just undo the brake line, then undo the 12mm bolt at the top left (if facing the caliper, looking at the side of your tire) and then between the aluminum plate and the caliper, use an open ended 10mm wrench to unscrew the second pin. Then take it off of the bike... Why are yall talking about undoing the axles?

This is correct.  No need to remove the wheel or axle.

[Valker]

That's ^^^^ good knowledge. Thanks.

[Bor]

Finally got around to pulling the rear caliper off. Took 10 minutes and no wheel or axle removal required. Thanks, 98valk

Caliper rebuild kit on the way; so time to disassemble the caliper and clean everything up.

Someone asked why I was doing this now. Well, I've never been happy with the power of the rear brake. I have never been able to lock the rear wheel; despite repeated attempts under controlled conditions. (I'm an MSF instructor, so I have a location to do this sort of thing  .) As the fluid is of unknown vintage and I know not what the PO did or did not do, I figured I would go through the system to get it to a known state and replace the fluid and 24-year-old rubber lines.

I am also installing a braided steel line (Galfer) and new pads. May also rebuild/replace the master cylinder as well, once I inspect it. I plan to do the same with the front brakes.

I recall from previous experience with installing new lines, that it can be a struggle to get the system filled and bled the first time. I used a reverse-bleed process on one of my other bikes that seemed to work pretty well. I will be putting speedbleeders on the calipers (and the clutch) but I have heard that they do not work well on a dry system.

Any tips for refilling and bleeding a dry brake system on the Valk?

[Grandpot]

Bor, while you are at it, remove, clean and grease the rear brake pedal at its pivot point. If it hasn't been done in awhile the grease will be dry or you may find rust. You'll be surprised how much easier it works.

[Grey wolf oz]

Finally got around to pulling the rear caliper off. Took 10 minutes and no wheel or axle removal required. Thanks, 98valk

Caliper rebuild kit on the way; so time to disassemble the caliper and clean everything up.

Someone asked why I was doing this now. Well, I've never been happy with the power of the rear brake. I have never been able to lock the rear wheel; despite repeated attempts under controlled conditions. (I'm an MSF instructor, so I have a location to do this sort of thing  .) As the fluid is of unknown vintage and I know not what the PO did or did not do, I figured I would go through the system to get it to a known state and replace the fluid and 24-year-old rubber lines.

I am also installing a braided steel line (Galfer) and new pads. May also rebuild/replace the master cylinder as well, once I inspect it. I plan to do the same with the front brakes.

I recall from previous experience with installing new lines, that it can be a struggle to get the system filled and bled the first time. I used a reverse-bleed process on one of my other bikes that seemed to work pretty well. I will be putting speedbleeders on the calipers (and the clutch) but I have heard that they do not work well on a dry system.

Any tips for refilling and bleeding a dry brake system on the Valk?

I purchased a vacuum bleeder kit to do mine, 
Could not get the front breaks to bleed through,

Even cursed at it a bunch,

Small hand pump and pot worked a treat first time !

Luke

[Jims99]

Use oem pads. I haven't found an aftermarket one that works as good as factory (for the valk). They either chatter, squeak or don't work as well.

[Bor]

Stripped down the rear caliper yesterday. One of the pistons was stuck (maybe why the braking performance was sub-optimal?) but finally got it out. Also found that I was missing the little retainer that the front of the pads rest on. No idea where that went. Gonna have to order up a new one (friggin shipping is more than the part; oh well.)

The caliper bores look good, no pitting or corrosion. Still waiting on the rebuild kit to put things back together. Should be here by Friday.

Definitely going with OEM pads all around. I learned that lesson on my VTX years ago. Not sure what the secret sauce is, but nothing I've tried works better.

[RonW]

"Also found that I was missing the little retainer that the front of the pads rest on. No idea where that went."


The front retainer usually remains in place in it's notch after pulling the pads. I guess it's worth double checking if it's still there.

[Bor]

"Also found that I was missing the little retainer that the front of the pads rest on. No idea where that went."


The front retainer usually remains in place in it's notch after pulling the pads. I guess it's worth double checking if it's still there.

It's definitely not there. I have a replacement on the way.

[RonW]

I meant the contrary, sir. Always double check if the retainer hasn't fallen off.

[Dewy]

Planning to rebuild the rear brake caliper over the winter (front calipers too.) FSM says to pull the rear wheel to remove the rear caliper. Is it possible to remove the caliper without pulling the wheel?

Thanks,

Did mine this weekend. 14mm bolt, drop pads out, 10mm guide pin. Brake line banjo. Falls off in your hand.
B4 you start I'd get new pins. The rear master cylinder brand new is cheap from partszilla. I replaced both front and rear. There was a lot of debris and moisture both systems, new lines too.

[Dewy]

Did mine last weekend! Losen the banjo, remove the pad securing pin, remove pads, remove 14mm black bolt / guide, 10mm remove the rear guide pin. It come right off.
Note: due to sitting in storage I had a lot of moisture water and just nasty in both cylinders. I had to fill them with rust desolver. Scrub and rinse multiple times. Gojo and a stiff parts brush cleaned them up nicely. Bought kits Frm BRAKECRAFTERS, SS pistons, you gonna need a 90degree pick to clean the seal / oring pockets. I replaced the guid pins and bad retainer pins. Greased them with Molly paste,

[Dewy]

Finally got around to pulling the rear caliper off. Took 10 minutes and no wheel or axle removal required. Thanks, 98valk

Caliper rebuild kit on the way; so time to disassemble the caliper and clean everything up.

Someone asked why I was doing this now. Well, I've never been happy with the power of the rear brake. I have never been able to lock the rear wheel; despite repeated attempts under controlled conditions. (I'm an MSF instructor, so I have a location to do this sort of thing  .) As the fluid is of unknown vintage and I know not what the PO did or did not do, I figured I would go through the system to get it to a known state and replace the fluid and 24-year-old rubber lines.


Reverse bleed to fill system, then bleed normally.
I am also installing a braided steel line (Galfer) and new pads. May also rebuild/replace the master cylinder as well, once I inspect it. I plan to do the same with the front brakes.

I recall from previous experience with installing new lines, that it can be a struggle to get the system filled and bled the first time. I used a reverse-bleed process on one of my other bikes that seemed to work pretty well. I will be putting speedbleeders on the calipers (and the clutch) but I have heard that they do not work well on a dry system.

Any tips for refilling and bleeding a dry brake system on the Valk?