No High Beam

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

In 2017, I installed a Speed Metal LED lamp in my 98 Tourer. It worked great until a few months ago when the high beam stopped working. I assumed the high beam side burned out. Just recently, I bought a replacement unit. Straight forward installation. No problem. Except, no high beam. So I poked around and found a broken wire on the Smart Switch I installed. Fixed that. Still no high beam. Checked all the fuses I know of and could find in the manual. I'm not real tech savvy, so the troubleshooting portion did not help me in understanding what I should do with the P9 Red and Black connectors in the headlight bucket. I'm wondering if it may be the Dimmer Switch on the left handle bar? Anyone have any suggestions, ideas or remedies?
I'm perplexed.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Jeff.

[da prez]

  Back to basics. Start at the switch. I do not have the wiring diagram in front of me. Check for power out at the switch.  If it is there , go to the next connector. The connectors are usually the issue. Unplug and check for green powder.  If clean , clean and (I use) silicone dia-electric. It creates an air tight connection.
It is a matter of tracing the wires.
  Probably not much help or what you want to hear. There is a member near you that will help.

                                         da prez

[h13man]

Had the same issue using a Smart Switch with the low beam. Found the plug got a little loose. They're have been instances lately the SS can go bad. Cleaning/lubricating the switch  is the only other item I would service/check. The relay could be a factor if there is one for each circuit?  

[MarkT]

The issue may be the Smart Switch, it's connectors, or the hi-lo switch. Not the fusing - the same fuse feeds the low beam so it's good.  The wiring diagram in the 97-8 std/tourer indicates there are no multiple pin connectors between the sw and the headlight.  So the only ones will be the SS connections you added, and the connection at the handlebar switch.  Fairly easy to find with a test light probe or a meter.  Start at the hi-lo sw or the wires from it. The hi beam wire is blue, while the power feed to the sw is bl-wh and the low beam is white.

The Smart Switch has 2 relays in it, one ea for the low & high beams.  Some have had failures with the discontinued SS.  It can be replaced with my original circuit of the same function, that employs simple automotive relays available anywhere. I have installed this circuit in all 3 of my Valks, and the Magna.  FYI I have about 23 of those relays for many different functions on my highly-modded "Jade".  In the 7 years since I set up almost all those relays in 2015, I have had ONE fail.  And was easily replaced by a std relay from Autozone.  Now I keep a stock of them in my electrical kit.  BTW, have almost as many relays on Deerslayer.  None have failed since 97.

This circuit is easy to set up in an afternoon.  Just get two $11, 4 or 5 pin relays (don't need the fancy dual one I mention in the writeup).  You'll need some spade connectors, a ring connector, a fuse holder, wire and wire shrink tubes.  Maybe electrical tape, I like wire ties and looms to neaten things up.  I solder everything so it never fails.
http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html