Advice needed on sheared clutch rivets and front rotors

[Jess from VA]

My bike is in the shop for weird clutch issues. (It shudders leaving stops in first, it engages with the lever closer to the bar than nearly all the way out like normal, it's almost impossible to get into neutral at stops and seems harder shifting than it used to be (rattlebars kickshifters on both bikes been perfect for 15 years, until now))

It may be the sheared rivets.

Without searching on here for old discussions, can someone explain to me what bad riviets on an otherwise good clutch pack is, and whether it is sound maintenance to NOT change the whole clutch pack?

I'm not hard on clutches.  I've had a number of bikes and the only clutch issue I ever had was on my first one, a '70 BSA Lightning I bought with only 1100 miles on it, and the clutch went within months.  I attributed this to the first owner... or to BSAs in general.  Never again, until now.

Also, my front rotors have been pretty cupped for a long time, but new pads and caliper/piston cleaning always resulted in good braking.  I might now need new rotors.  What's the story on Gold wing rotors on the Valk (99 interstate)?  Thinner mm's, but rated for the same life, and work fine, and cheaper?

Is that 1500 gold wing rotors, or 1800s?  

Thanks in advance.  

[Led]

Before going crazy on a solution, did you just try bleeding the clutch reservoir?  A SIMPLE place to start!!  

My clutch was acting the same way one Spring.  I just bled out the clutch system, and all was right with the World again....

[hubcapsc]

I know of good mechanics who've just changed out the part the rivets
came out of and not the other plates because they still looked great
upon inspection. I poked fun at them for going to all that work and
not changing out all of it. Tens of thousands of hard miles ago...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

It's not just the fluid flush and bleed, and it's not the slave cylinder (which is what I thought it was). 

[Jruby38]

I have had the clutch replaced twice in 150k miles. Rivits both times but replace the friction plates while it was apart. OEM parts not too expensive but labor was spendy.

[sandy]

Gold Wing rotors are a direct replacement. Get '01 thru '10. The design of the '12 bikes are different and don't know if they are the same. They might be. The difference is the wing rotors are .5mm thinner. It doesn't affect the braking at all. Also the wing rotors are lighter because of cutouts in the center section which reduces unstrung eight, improving handling a bit.

[Jess from VA]

Gold Wing rotors are a direct replacement. Get '01 thru '10. The design of the '12 bikes are different and don't know if they are the same. They might be. The difference is the wing rotors are .5mm thinner. It doesn't affect the braking at all. Also the wing rotors are lighter because of cutouts in the center section which reduces unstrung eight, improving handling a bit.

Thank you Sandy.  So this is the 1800 Wings.  

unstrung eight    

[sandy]

Gold Wing rotors are a direct replacement. Get '01 thru '10. The design of the '12 bikes are different and don't know if they are the same. They might be. The difference is the wing rotors are .5mm thinner. It doesn't affect the braking at all. Also the wing rotors are lighter because of cutouts in the center section which reduces unstrung eight, improving handling a bit.

Thank you Sandy.  So this is the 1800 Wings.  

unstrung eight    

Yes: Gold Wings

[98valk]

these are all of the honda front rotors that fit the Valkyrie. I'm running VFR800 rotors found a few sets with almost new wear for $100 for the pair on ebay. carrier was anodized gold, so I removed that with oven cleaner and then polished the carrier to chrome like appearance.
most likely higher prices now.
CBRF 600 and VFR 800 oem thickness is 4.6-4.4mm. most good used sets are 4.4mm. every set I bought L and R will be a few 0.00 mms different, such as L 4.44mm and R 4.49mm.
VFR are 2 3/4 lbs vs my valkyrie rotors 3 1/4 lbs. I think they are half worn, I don't have mms written in my notes. I should pull them out and measure them. so reduce weight is the important un-sprung weight reduction which makes stopping power better and helps the suspension to work better.
I prefer OEM quality over aftermarket.


Fit for CBR F (PC35/K294) FX,FY PC35 K294 600CC model year 1999-2000
Fit for CBR600F4 (US) SuperSport F4 1999-2000
Fit for CROSSRUNNER 800 2011-2014
Fit for VFR V-TEC 800 1998-2010
Fit for CBR F 900 2003
Fit for CBR600F (UK) 1999-2000
Fit for CBR RR (SC28/G034) 900CC Fireblade N,P model year 1992-1993
Fit for XL 1000 V Varadero VX,VY V1 V2 linked brake system (SD01 SC02 SD02 /e4/0009) 1000CC 1999-2002
Fit for XL 1000 V Varadero V3-V6 linked brake system V7-V9,A B,C(SD02 SD03/e9 e4/0059) 1000CC 2003-2012
Fit for XL 1000 V Varadero ABS VA4-VA9,AA AB,AC (SD02 SD03/e9 e4/0059) 2004-2012
Fit for GL F6C VALKYRIE /GL 1500 Valkyrie C (SC34/H582) 1500CC model year 1997-2003
Fit for GL 1500 Valkyrie C /CD /CF (SC34/H582) 2000-2003
Fit for GL 1500 Valkyrie Tourer CT SC34 H582 1997 - 1999
Fit for GL 1500 Valkyrie Tourer CT SC34 H582 2000-2003
Fit for GL GOLD WING 1-9,A,B,C,D,E linked brake system 1800 2001-2021
Fit for VFR 800 F / Fi Interceptor FiW,FiX RC46 K011 1998 - 1999
Fit for VFR 800 Fi Interceptor Fi1-Fi2 RC46 2000 - 2001
Fit for VFR 800 Fi Interceptor Fi3-Fi5 RC46 2002 - 2005
Fit for VFR 800 Fi Interceptor Fi6-Fi9 RC46 2006 - 2009
Fit for VFR 800 Fi Interceptor ABS A2-A5 RC46 2002 - 2005
Fit for VFR 800 Fi Interceptor ABS A6-A9 RC46 2006 - 2013

[Jess from VA]

Thank you. 

[Jruby38]

How did the post go from clutch to break rotors?

[98valk]

How did the post go from clutch to break rotors?

read OPs post he asked about brake rotors.

[rug_burn]

But as to the clutch question:  It's just that last 'shock absorbing' (or whatever) disk that needs replacing.  If the rivets don't gouge the adjacent plate, those regular clutch will last forever. Just about.
I did mine, and I don't know why they don't use steel rivets on these, they'd probably never shear like the brass ones.

[Jess from VA]

Well it turned out to be the rivets.  This had been a very intermittent problem for a number of years, until 2 years ago, it got worse.

Based on info here and my mechanic's advice, I'm replacing everything.

The parts aren't that bad, and I'm hoping for a lifetime (mine) repair. 

[Grey wolf oz]

Interesting event while riding today, 
About 3 hours in, hot day fifth gear highway speed ( 70 ) odd mph
It felt like the gear disengaged,
I pulled in the clutch
Let it out again it " slipped again "

Came up to a round about and dropped down through gears and back up and it went away,,,,

Felt expensive,,,,,

Any ideas ?

[98valk]

Interesting event while riding today, 
About 3 hours in, hot day fifth gear highway speed ( 70 ) odd mph
It felt like the gear disengaged,
I pulled in the clutch
Let it out again it " slipped again "

Came up to a round about and dropped down through gears and back up and it went away,,,,

Felt expensive,,,,,

Any ideas ?

drive shaft to final drive connection, gear teeth could be worn and about to fail completely.

[clanky]

I agree with 98Valk, it could be your splines on the final drive end of the drive shaft.  Some bikes (mine) did not have grease packed in that joint at the factory and failed prematurely.
Mine did after about 12 years of riding.  When I pulled the drive shaft out it was bone dry as in no evidence of any grease.  Still it lasted 12 years.
New drive shaft and properly greased it has been smooth ever since.