Rear Shock Bushings

[BradValk48237]

Hey All...

Was adding a new piece of Bling to the Valk..... Chrome solo seat back... and had the Shock bolts out and it looks like the bushings are cracked.... So 2 questions:

1. Best replacements?

2. Can they be replaced without a lift? Just have jack and stands here. Manual seems to say that you can, But I think there will be to much pressure on the shocks.

Any help would be appreciated.

Brad

[Joe Hummer]

I went with the stock bushings.  As for replacing, I think you need to extend the shocks in order to remove the shocks.  Otherwise, you are fighting again the springs to get it off...and worse...back on. 

Joe

[Warlock]

Hey All...

Was adding a new piece of Bling to the Valk..... Chrome solo seat back... and had the Shock bolts out and it looks like the bushings are cracked.... So 2 questions:

1. Best replacements?

2. Can they be replaced without a lift? Just have jack and stands here. Manual seems to say that you can, But I think there will be to much pressure on the shocks.

Any help would be appreciated.


Brad

I have these installed on my standard. They are from McMaster Carr.
   6389K344   
Nylon Bearing, Sleeve, For 5/8" Shaft Dia, 7/8" Od, 3/4" Length
You have to use a c clamp to put them in your shocks. Not hard to get them in. So far they are holding up good with 6000 miles on them.
David

[hubcapsc]

On one (or both?) of the bottom bolts on the shocks, you'll wish the bike was jacked up
to where there's no tension or compression on the shocks... nothing's impossible, but
jacked up to just the right place sure does make for easy... I'm pretty sure that Dave
Weaver stripped the caliper side bolt while the shock was under tension...

-Mike

[junior]

i forgot who showed this to me i think it was frank, but he hung his bike from a crossbar under the seat

[Patrick]

I think the best replacements are made by Gary [Prour] ,but, he hasn't been around here in a while.. Maybe some one here still knows how to get a hold of him..
Your stands under the engine guards and the floor jack behind the engine will work..

[JimC]

I bought mine from Darryl at XS6-custom. I think they could be replaced without raising the bike and taking the weight off, but it would be much harder that way. Here is a link to the bushing page on Darryl's website. Great guy to deal with.

http://www.xf6-custom.com/partpages/bushings.html

Jim

[John U.]

Here's a link to Gary's (Pruor) bushings, they are urethane and hold up much better: http://rattlebars.com/cart/bushings.html

[roboto65]

I have a set from Darryl and I am very pleased and he assured me if these fail he will replace them so far so good and a very nice guy to talk too 

[John U.]

There is another alternative. The VTX shock bushings will fit a Valk.
Honda has improved the bushings from the old rubber type to a green poly part number 52489-HN0-671 for $2.50 each.

[BikernDiver]

I've used a crank down strap to take off my shocks and re-install them w/o jacking up the bike.  Just place the strap around the shock, so the crank handle doesn't hit anything....  Jack it tight....take off bottom bolt....uncrank the strap.  Take off top bolt.    Piece of cake!

[Shockbushing Gary]

I think the best replacements are made by Gary [Prour] ,but, he hasn't been around here in a while.. Maybe some one here still knows how to get a hold of him..
Your stands under the engine guards and the floor jack behind the engine will work..

Thanks for the props, Patrick.
My shock bushings are now 1/2 price- that is, you get a set of 4 for $17
Order option 1 on the web page.
Changed my handle, as you can see....
The other one was just too hard to spell! 

[BradValk48237]

Thanks All!..Will be ordering from Gary...

Next question...do just the top bushings? I saw from another thread that replacing the lowers looks to be a PITA!

B

[roboto65]

More than likely you DO NOT need to replace the lowers just the upper ones 

[Gryphon Rider]

+1 on the VTX bushings.  Cheaper than anything else out there and better than stock.  Mine are too new to tell if they are better than Gary's, but my experience is Gary's do NOT last forever.

[Friagabi]

Order the poly bushings. Order all 4! Not worth the hassle to just do two and have to go back and do the lower two. Got mine from Gary. Good source. He lives in a great state.

Jack up the bike. Block the crash bars and use a floor jack and a block of wood so you lift on the frame. Otherwise you will be right at the back of the engine. Either way remove one shock at a time. Then replace it when it is rebushed. leave the top bolt lose. One shock will most likely be a tad short of the other. Install the long one first, install the upper bolt and tighten. Then put your knee on the bike and compress the long shock just enough to get the shrorter shock onto the upper pin, install the other upper bolt and your through. Put the seat back on and go for a ride. Might need a dead blow hammer to help on the top pins the first time. Won't be that way the next time you need to pull the shocks. My IS gets it shocks pulled at the top each driveline service. Don't need to do anything but pull the right bag from the rack that way. Same thing when a new rear tire goes on.

[PAVALKER]

There is another alternative. The VTX shock bushings will fit a Valk.
Honda has improved the bushings from the old rubber type to a green poly part number 52489-HN0-671 for $2.50 each.

These VTX Bushings are great.  They are formed to fit inside the shock (stock shocks) and the material is much better than the stock rubber bushing.  I agree, that no bushings last forever.... but would bet these last as long or longer than Gary's (which I had to replace on my X already).  The price is easier to live with for bushings as well.... a complete set uppers and lowers for 10 bucks.... can't beat that.

Oh and some on the VTX boards are getting Nylon Bushings from McMaster-Carr and replacing their worn bushings with these hard nylon bushings...    http://www.mcmaster.com/#6389k344/=5mfvfh