When [/not] to F with it

[DatBoi69YOLO]

Say it's been awhile and your Valk still runs like a champ.

The maintenance manual says its time to do a few things like check valve clearance, sync carbs, choke, and so on, which is fine, but the bike apparently just flat-out doesn't seem to need it.

To the more experienced guys out there: in general, how do you make the call for when it's time to open something up and start messing with it vs. just letting it be? You guys come up with any general rules-of-thumb over the years?

[Skinhead]

I've found valve adjustments rarely need done.  Timing belts last at least 100k.  Carb sync is another thing that isn't needed very often.   I also think a lot of folks cause many of their issues by fixing things that aren't broke.   Lube your splines and change your oil and enjoy the ride.

[..]

I've found valve adjustments rarely need done.  Timing belts last at least 100k.  Carb sync is another thing that isn't needed very often.   I also think a lot of folks cause many of their issues by fixing things that aren't broke.   Lube your splines and change your oil and enjoy the ride.

[98valk]

well everyone gets use to the valve clearance, sync carbs etc., out of spec since its gradual with many miles, one doesn't notice and until its checked and put into spec and ridden again.
with the carbs it is more about all of the throttle linkage points that will affect the sync. I spray some silcone on linkage after so many months.

yes as others noted manual calls for valve check and sync much too soon.

important check is the steering head bearings at 600 miles, who knows to do this?, I didn't until my bearings failed around 50k and then every 8k miles. I just checked mine again at 12k miles and they were fine. Many Goldwing experts state the 600 mile check is the most important for long life 100+miles.

[luftkoph]

I'm going to paraphrase here something I read about Soichiro Honda

I can engineer for performance, quality, durability, economy, even abuse but I can not engineer for lack of maintenance.

I suppose we all have to decide for ourself where to draw the line.

[hubcapsc]

I started riding my tired 1500 in 2007. I've refurbished or
at least looked at pretty much everything on the rolling
stock, change all my tires (I just take the wheels off these
days  ) ... I ride my bike enough that it has never
gummed up. The inside of the tank is nice. I've never
thought about or messed with the valves or the belts
until recently. Not because my bike ran poorly,
but because I've put almost 100,000 K on it myself
and there's a "valkyrie mechanic dude" near by to
take advantage of... some of us (me) don't need to
be looking inside the engine and turning valve adjustment
screws or whatever  ...

-Mike

[RonW]

The damper rod is a discontinued item so I wouldn't unbolt the damper rod from the fork tube. If you strip the threads etc. don't know how you're going to replace it.

[Bagger John - #3785]

If you have the proper tools on-hand, a valve inspection and carb sync isn't that big of a deal to perform. Head bearings, brake pads and fluids, lube cables (including speedo drive) final drive lube change and grease the splines every couple of years depending on mileage.

Your schedule should be dictated by your riding regimen. Some climates (lots of wet weather riding) call for more frequent inspection of anywhere water can get in - including the driveline.

[Bagger John - #3785]

The damper rod is a discontinued item so I wouldn't unbolt the damper rod from the fork tube. If you strip the threads etc. don't know how you're going to replace it.

Lay in a set of spare forks or ship the assemblies to Traxxion and let them install new internals.

I'm going to do this with two I/S fork sets. One of those will replace the forks currently on my Tourer, and the Tourer's set is getting new seals then placed into reserve as a backup. I have Hyperpro springs in them and really like the ride. That bike is 98% Interstate (including the weight). Members have commented they like the Std/Tourer damper setup over that used with the I/S and I tend to agree.

[98valk]

The damper rod is a discontinued item so I wouldn't unbolt the damper rod from the fork tube. If you strip the threads etc. don't know how you're going to replace it.

Lay in a set of spare forks or ship the assemblies to Traxxion and let them install new internals.

I'm going to do this with two I/S fork sets. One of those will replace the forks currently on my Tourer, and the Tourer's set is getting new seals then placed into reserve as a backup. I have Hyperpro springs in them and really like the ride. That bike is 98% Interstate (including the weight). Members have commented they like the Std/Tourer damper setup over that used with the I/S and I tend to agree.

"Members have commented they like the Std/Tourer damper setup over that used with the I/S and I tend to agree."

that's because honda used different compression and damping valving for the interstate for the added weight, which is the incorrect way to compensate for added weight. the correct way is to use stronger/stiffer springs, but that would have put the cost up.