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Inzane 17

Bumpy ride

Started by High Desert, Sat 15, Jul 2023, 10:42:17

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High Desert

Are there adjustments I can make to soften the ride on my (non standard) standard?  I have modified it a bit but the only things I believe I did that could impact suspension is (1) I lowered the back with a set of 11.75" shocks and (2) I lightened it up a bit by removing stock fenders/seat/lights etc ( see Pristine Parts in the classifieds).  Am also running dark side.  But, all this would affect the rear suspension in my mind, and the bit of a jolt I feel seems to be in both front and rear.  First Valkyrie so maybe this is normal(?).

98valk

your rear tire most likely is hitting inside the upper fender where it clears the shock tower cross bar with the shorter shocks.

front suspension, lower oil level some and /or change oil weight. now since fork oil weights are not standardized like motor oils it, it can be a lot of tuning to what u like. viscosity of the oil is best way to tune and not the weight.

https://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Jess from VA

Lower shocks mean less travel and a harder ride.

I like my tires hard (near max PSI on the sidewalls), and that also means a harder ride. 

Less air gives a softer ride, but less longevity of tires.

WintrSol

Quote from: Jess from VA on Sat 15, Jul 2023, 12:04:01
Lower shocks mean less travel and a harder ride.

I like my tires hard (near max PSI on the sidewalls), and that also means a harder ride. 

Less air gives a softer ride, but less longevity of tires.
And harder tires give less grip for braking. It's a trade, all around.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

Jess from VA

Quote from: WintrSol on Sat 15, Jul 2023, 13:56:55
Quote from: Jess from VA on Sat 15, Jul 2023, 12:04:01
Lower shocks mean less travel and a harder ride.

I like my tires hard (near max PSI on the sidewalls), and that also means a harder ride. 

Less air gives a softer ride, but less longevity of tires.
And harder tires give less grip for braking. It's a trade, all around.

I know, but new(er) hard tires stop pretty well. 

I'm pretty good at avoiding hard stops.  But the idiots are everywhere.   :) 

High Desert

#5
Thank you for the suggestions so far.  Note I have replaced the fenders with a tracking fender so my travel is probably diminished even more  for the rear wheel.  I will play around with the viscosity grades in the front, where I really think I am experiencing more of the bumps.

Here's a pic if it helps with any more good ideas:


Willow

LOL!  That's a very nice build but if you built that expecting a softer ride you are likely destined for disappointment.

It is sometimes difficult to determine whether suspension bumps are coming from the front or the rear.  With that setup bumps from the rear are pretty well guaranteed.  

ridingron

What do you need rear shocks for? You have springs under the seat!   ;D

High Desert

So not being too familiar with shock adjustments, I'm going to swing the adjustment to the opposite side on the rear shocks and see if it's stiffer or softer.  It is not that it is bottoming out on bumps (which of course the rear can at speed with the shortened rear shocks) but I am feeling the roughness of more coarse asphalt and slight porpoising at times on rougher pavement.  It's all slight, but wondered if that is how all bikes feel on rough pavement, or if that's how they all feel when you lower them, or do I need to do some tuning.  I didn't ride it enough before modifying it to have a mental comparison.

WintrSol

If the spacing between the bumps nearly matches the wheelbase, with one wheel is up and the other down at the same time, then, yes, porpoising would be an issue. If the bumps are kind of random, then you have a mismatch in spring rates. I can't tell from that photo, but it kind of looks like there is a pre-load adjustment. Adjusting that, up or down in steps, can often make a better match. It's harder to do in the forks, but possible.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

gordonv

I don't believe I read anywhere where you loosened/tightened the springs on the rear shocks, only that you changed them out?
1999 Black with custom paint IS


High Desert

So I had max preload on.  The more I soften the preloading, the easier it is for 98Valk's fender-bumping-cross-member to happen.  So looks like longer shocks is the answer.  I may put the stock ones back on and see how it rides, but I sure like the lower stance.  I might split the difference.

98valk

Quote from: High Desert on Sun 16, Jul 2023, 16:57:26
So I had max preload on.  The more I soften the preloading, the easier it is for 98Valk's fender-bumping-cross-member to happen.  So looks like longer shocks is the answer.  I may put the stock ones back on and see how it rides, but I sure like the lower stance.  I might split the difference.

smaller diameter tire is an option for more clearance.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798