How to prelube a Valk motor.

[John Schmidt]

In the old distributor type ignitions we could use a modified distributor drive shaft and spin it up to preload/lube the entire motor before firing it up the first time. You can't do that with these Valk motors so I'm wondering what is used to accomplish the same thing. The Wing motor(with reverse) I want to put in my trike obviously is used so all the gallies should be full. However, since oil was drained prior to being pulled from the original Wing install, I'm a bit concerned about the rod/main bearings. I've not started the motor but have spun it over 3-4 times with the starter while testing the reverse function at different speeds. This is done by using different combinations of resistors in the control pak. So I'm wondering if the various bearing surfaces retined enough lube to prevent any damage, I feel yes since nothing was done under load or compression...plugs are removed. I plan to replace the oil and filter before going any further and was considering various methods I might use to prelube. Or, if I refill the oil and turn the motor over using the starter do you think the oil pump would adequately do what I'm wanting to do?

My current "reverse" has quit functioning for the most part. Has something to do with being short of stature and getting off/on the trike. I suggested it is inconvenient but was corrected, seems the proper term was PITA. OK...you like bread! That went over like a burrito fart in an elevator. 

[Pluggy]

John, if a bike had been sitting a couple of years, most of us would fill it with fresh oil, crank it with the ignition off, then fire it up.  That's what you have now, except the engine has not been sitting in a bike.

[John Schmidt]

John, if a bike had been sitting a couple of years, most of us would fill it with fresh oil, crank it with the ignition off, then fire it up.  That's what you have now, except the engine has not been sitting in a bike.

Stu, that's kinda what I was thinking. Fill with oil, new filter, leave the sparklers out and let the starter do its thing. I feel as long as no heat or compression was in play since it was drained, the rods and mains should have an adequate film in place until the oil pump gets things moving internally again.

[Pluggy]

Oil might get flowing faster if you fill the filter before screwing it on.

[John Schmidt]

Oil might get flowing faster if you fill the filter before screwing it on.

I usually do, have read a number of pros & cons re. that practice but found the majority support doing it.

[Peteg]

I also vote for the prefilled oil filter. Since it's an unknown engine I would make sure the oil light goes out as soon as she fires. When I supported transmission test stands at the helicopter factory, we just filled up the new transmissions and tripped them out if the oil pressure didn't come up. At low load and rpm it will be fine until the jets pressurize.

That being said with a flat six if you really wanted to get stupid about it, you could over fill it and jack it to the left (like on kickstand) then jack it to the right. If you drain or suck the excess oil out clean you could use it for your next oil change, but I wouldn't bother.

[John Schmidt]

Peteg, the motor is currently on a lift table, I'm 87...there will be no lifting/jacking left & right. 

I do understand what you're saying, just yanking the chain a bit. Plus, it's going in a trike also making it difficult to jack left/right.

[Peteg]

Wow John, congratulations on continuing to pursue your passion. I'm 73 and got back into two wheels when I turned 64. My wife's Uncle Brian road a Goldwing until his mini strokes started. Now he drives a Corvette. I'm hoping to keep on 2 wheels as long as I possibly can. Getting back into motorcycles is the best thing I ever did.