Final driven flange pins question

[John97]

Why can't they be removed?

My final driven splines went bad. I swear I had the 4 nuts loose during reassembly last tire change but...I don't know. I've put multiple rear tires on but not had a problem before.
Anyway I got from the ujoint to the final driven flange all together off eBay. Every spline looks new so I'll take the driveshaft and pinion cup I replaced last year and keep got spares. I think it's best to keep this driveline all together since it always has been.

However the 5 pins are noticeably worn whereas the ones on my original flange are not (but the splines are toast). Everything I read says not to remove them. Why? The is a lip cast into the flange so they won't spin when removing/installing the nuts. I can loctite them to prevent nuts coming loose as that's a concern I've read. I can't find torque specs but I can see what torque breaks them free. Or should I just use the good driven flange and it's worn pins and not worry about it?

[98valk]

once removed they have to be exactly installed per tech manual instructions.

[John97]

Ok I'll bite. The tech manual instructions would be...?

[Hook#3287]

I believe that part....

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cb694f870023420a418c9/rear-wheel
8   FLANGE SET, FINAL DRIVEN
42630-MT8-305
$343.42
$251.21

.....is not considered a serviceable part by Mother Honda.

I could not find any process in my OEM service manual describing those pins R&R.

Doesn't mean you can't do it, just Honda is not on board.

At $250.00 I'd give it a go. 

[98valk]

Ok I'll bite. The tech manual instructions would be...?

ok I was wrong, I was thinking of the swing arm studs installation.

I would check the torque required to remove them, and use high temp lock tite and the torque valves pg 1-13 for the size bolt and nut.

Serk posted link to download manual
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,132932.0.html

[John97]

I've already started reassembly leaving the worn pins in the good final drive. The dampers in my wheel are good, I've replaced them not too long ago. I did manage to find a thread where the torque values were discussed. Seems to be since they are simply pins not a bolt/nut holding something together that the corresponding torque recommendation for that diameter would be excessive. People seemed to agree that 14 ft/lbs would be sufficient. If I decide to pull this back apart and swap pins I will go with this. I'm not having a whole lotta fun with this right now so I'm not really inclined to go back a few steps. I've had the drivetrain apart several times I dunno why this time sucks. Oh well.
 

[Hook#3287]

14 ft/lbs seems low, but maybe.

If you get back there, maybe lock tight.

I've found as I get older, my attention and patience seem to be fleeting more. 

[Chrisj CMA]

I believe any warning not to unbolt those pins is in the context of in the process of removing the flange from the wheel. Some guys thought that's how to get the flange off the hub.

I'd replace the pins if I was in your position and wanted to