1998 1500 Valkyrie has no electrical power with new battery

[Piper Archer #1]

After winter storage I have no electrical power, even with new battery and all fuses checked and everything checks OK and still no power. Can you give me some suggestions to





 solve this problem?

[-mike-]

Most probably the Kill switch is engaged. Happens more often than one may think.

Else
Tip over sensor?
Side stand switch?

[Mooskee]

On each of the 3 coils there is a black/white wire. That wire carries 12 volts to the coils. If any of the safety circuit conditions are not satisfied,the 22 Volts goes away. Kill switch, bank angle switch and relay, clutch switch etc. You might have to remove the tank to check, but if that 12 v is missing, you know it is something in the that circuit.

[Piper Archer #1]

Thank you for the quick response. As I work through these switches, I would believe I could eliminate the kill switch as the problem, due to the fact I have no power to any dials or gauges. I believe with the kill switch engaged I would still have lighting and gauge power. Any further suggestions as I test for all switches is greatly appreciated.

[WintrSol]

Have a look at the cable from the key switch - any chewed wires?

[Challenger]

Corroded ground wire at engine or bad cable connection at eyelets. Volt meter is your friend 

[Mooskee]

Corroded ground wire at engine or bad cable connection at eyelets. Volt meter is your friend 

The engine ground is a common issue. Remove it from the engine block, and clean the connection, and reinstall.

Start relay is another common issue.

[Piper Archer #1]

I do greatly appreciate your notes and interest to help me troubleshoot. I do believe the battery to ground is all good as I test with a voltmeter. The voltage I show on my voltmeter testing + and - battery terminals, is exactly the same when I test + at the battery and any bolt on the motorcycle. That tells me the ground is all good, unless I am missing something. As I get time I will begin to search all wiring for any damage of insulation, especially from mice. Thanks again.

[WintrSol]

Sounds like you're doing it the hard way, now. Using the wiring diagram in the service manual, test every point between the battery+ and what *should* have power. This will likely require removing the fuel tank, of course.

[Mooskee]

I've got good color coded schematics posted on my websit for free download.
Go to valkyriecarbsandcustom.com scroll down to the download section.
Keep us posted on what you find.

Dave

[Piper Archer #1]

Thanks MUCH! For the great advice, and especially the color-coded schematic for the Valkyrie. I don't believe I have even the standard service manual. I will keep the post updated, especially when I get it running.

[WintrSol]

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7v2ek5k4yjzz4cw2bmgs9/Valkyrie-GL1500.pdf?rlkey=47ylb91liia26r3xw2cjqyaxc&st=688csr26&dl=0

[Piper Archer #1]

Thank you WintrSol for this service manual. This should be very helpful to continue with my project. Last night I did decide to pull the fuel tank off to get started with some serious testing of wiring. So far, I see no evidence of any rodents chewing of wiring.

[Piper Archer #1]

Update: With my multimeter I tested both the Kill Switch and the Clutch Switch. The kill switch tested to have a closed circuit when on "Run" and open when "Off/kill". The clutch switch tested closed circuit when squeezed, and open when released. (Both Good) While testing I thought I would test the Start Switch as I had it open. When the switch is released, I found the Black/Red wire and Blue/White wires were a closed circuit between the two, and each individually were a closed circuit to ground as well. Shown in photo with yellow arrows, and red arrow is where the switch presses in.



Tested the same with the start button released and pressed. I am thinking this is NOT good. 

[Piper Archer #1]

As I followed the schematic for those two wires earlier, related to the headlight likely to shut off the headlight when you start the motorcycle. One wire goes to the 10A fuse box and the other to the Dimmer Switch. With this in mind, I tested the 10A fuse box connection labeled as Headlight and found it grounded as the earlier wires are. Also, the other 10A fuse box just above labeled "Tail Meter" tested to be grounded as well. I am assuming this is indicating some wires are bared/chewed somewhere, and it isn't necessarily a bad Start Switch. I have yet to find and test the bank angle switch and relay and kick stand switch. I have not yet tested the 3 coils either. If anyone has thoughts on this topic, anything is appreciated as my skills are more on the mechanical rather than electrical. Thank you!

   

[WintrSol]

Note that, with the bulbs in, that those locations will read to ground through the bulb filaments. My question is, what to the fuse sockets read with the key switch on? Or, unplug the bulbs from their sockets and read again.

[Piper Archer #1]

Great point regarding the bulb filaments. All of my testing and results were with the key "Off", and bulbs in place. However, I do still have a couple items unplugged; Bank Angle Sensor and a relay I believe, still while troubleshooting wiring. Checking over wiring in the headlight shell, which I have never opened since I purchased several years ago.

 

[Piper Archer #1]

I would like to pass on this question to the group and especially those couple who have assisted me greatly already. As I inspect my wiring and switches and sensors and reconnecting, including the wiring stuffed inside the headlight shell. Is it good to use a dielectric grease lightly when reconnecting electrical connections. I just don't like to leave connections dirty and very dry and difficult to know you have a great connection. I appreciate everyone's thoughts on this topic as I search for my grease in my garage.

[Piper Archer #1]

Update: As I continue to check through safety switches, confirm OK and reinstall, I finally decided to check through the Side Stand Switch. Photo of the side stand is showing three wires cut off, and no switch in sight. With this check I don't believe this is the cause of my electrical problem. Of the three wires cut, the two green were wired together and the one yellow/blk stripe wire is bare. Apparently, this was altered prior to my purchase about 10 years ago. We have used the motorcycle every summer without any problems. Obviously, someone earlier connected the wires together, which is bypassing the safety switch. 

[WintrSol]

I would like to pass on this question to the group and especially those couple who have assisted me greatly already. As I inspect my wiring and switches and sensors and reconnecting, including the wiring stuffed inside the headlight shell. Is it good to use a dielectric grease lightly when reconnecting electrical connections. I just don't like to leave connections dirty and very dry and difficult to know you have a great connection. I appreciate everyone's thoughts on this topic as I search for my grease in my garage.

I'd suggest CorrosionX instead of dielectric grease; model train stores have something similar. It lubricates without interfering with conduction.
Dielectric grease is an insulator, and us useful to keep moisture out when applied where it doesn't cover the contacts, but blocks them further back, like any connector seals; that green connector, for example, could use grease where it slides together, and where the wires enter from the back. It is *usually* OK to use on the contacts, but is not my preference.

[Piper Archer #1]

Thanks WintrSol for your thoughts of the Dielectric grease, which has me rethinking my use of that grease. One thing I should clarify regarding my electrical problem. I had no power to show up at all, when I turn the key "ON". I would have to believe each of the safety switches would shut off the engine when activated and leave the primary power "ON". Such as headlight and gauges. Also, if I am checking for 12volts at each of the coils, that is only if I have primary power through the key "ON". Also, if I am testing the Bank Angle Switch, I must have primary 12volts through the Bank Angle Switch Relay. Thanks again everyone! Back to the garage!

[WintrSol]

You are correct about the safety switches - they only disable the ignition system. No power, anywhere, tells me that either there is no power reaching the key switch, the switch is bad, or the wiring after the switch is broken.
You can use a small straight-pin to pierce the insulation of the wires that enter and leave the switch, and use it as a probe to verify power input and output there. Frankly, that's where I would have started.

[Mooskee]

Thanks WintrSol for your thoughts of the Dielectric grease, which has me rethinking my use of that grease. One thing I should clarify regarding my electrical problem. I had no power to show up at all, when I turn the key "ON". I would have to believe each of the safety switches would shut off the engine when activated and leave the primary power "ON". Such as headlight and gauges. Also, if I am checking for 12volts at each of the coils, that is only if I have primary power through the key "ON". Also, if I am testing the Bank Angle Switch, I must have primary 12volts through the Bank Angle Switch Relay. Thanks again everyone! Back to the garage!

The best contact enhancer I have ever used is Stabilant 22. We even used it in a nuclear power plant where I worked. We used it on the Reactor Rod Control Position and Indication system card edges.
Here is a link to an explanation of how it works.
https://www.posthorn.com/Stab_2.html