clutch damper plate replacement (rivets) - advice?

[upjeeper]

So it looks like I'll be doing the clutch damper plate on my bike in the near future due to the rivets, at least that's the best guess as of now. I'll document the process but wanted to ask a few questions to prep

1. Any advice from anyone who's done it before? I've got the factory service manual but often times there are tricks from others with experience.

2. Any parts I should do while I'm in there (seals, bushings, bearings, etc)

3. Best way to hold the bike up to work on it? (standard jack? I've also got a cherry picked I could use in combination)

Thanks much

[houstone]

This is a GREAT start!
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,3572.0.html
Do a search for "clutch" in the tech board, and you'll find more worthwhile threads.
I did mine last fall, and managed not to buy any special tools.  I am happy to talk about it if you want to call.  Send me a note and I'll send you my phone.
Good luck!
Jeff

You in Da UP?

[upjeeper]

I was in da UP, graduated from Michigan Tech a few years back. Living near Madison, Wisconsin now. I'll ping you for some help later one. thanks!

You spend any time in the UP?

[houstone]

Nah, but gotta friend from Drummond Island.  He's a hoot, yah!  ;-)

[DFragn]

Might as well replace the friction plates while in there. Inspect the basket, light scoring from the rivets and/or dampner springs shouldn't need replacement - your call there.

Use an impact wrench to remove basket nut. That way you needn't worry about the basket spinning on you or having to lock it down.
I replaced my cover gasket too.
Soak the new friction plates in motor oil for about 8 hrs. prior to install.

Other then that post up with questions or concerns.

I removed the rear wheel so I could work more comfortably under there. The trunk was off for other reasons.
I also removed the Viking exhaust cans from the headers to ease my shoulders and arms under there.

I had the lift forward just enough to remove the clutch cover, I still needed the jack under the rear axle just to stabilize it.

Oh yeah, don't forget to put the oil sump filter back in.- Don't ask

[Jeff K]

Might as well replace the friction plates while in there. Inspect the basket, light scoring from the rivets and/or dampner springs shouldn't need replacement - your call there.

Use an impact wrench to remove basket nut. That way you needn't worry about the basket spinning on you or having to lock it down.
I replaced my cover gasket too.
Soak the new friction plates in motor oil for about 8 hrs. prior to install.

Other then that post up with questions or concerns.

I removed the rear wheel so I could work more comfortably under there. The trunk was off for other reasons.
I also removed the Viking exhaust cans from the headers to ease my shoulders and arms under there.

I had the lift forward just enough to remove the clutch cover, I still needed the jack under the rear axle just to stabilize it.

Oh yeah, don't forget to put the oil sump filter back in.- Don't ask

You didn't pull the rear wheel to get to the clutch, did you?

[Jeff K]

The only special tools you'll need is a way to remove and replace the spring.
I use a home made setup.
If you have access to air tools you can zip the nut off of the clutch without "un-staking" it. And it will be reusable. I've always reused mine. And I normally reuse the cover gasket.
It's not a bad job and if you are all setup for it you can knock it in a couple of hours. 


http://www.jkozloski.com/pics2/clutch/Clutch%20101.htm

[upjeeper]

Jeff,
What size pipe is that you cut into a "C" cross section? 2 or 3 inch?

[Jeff K]

Jeff,
What size pipe is that you cut into a "C" cross section? 2 or 3 inch?

I think it is a three inch, I had to cut the gap and then squeeze it in a bit to get it to the right size.
It's 2.5" inside dia.

[chrise2469]

You can also use a muffler adapter 2 1/2" id 3" od then cut out the center like so


I have a video of it in use, will post when I find it.

Here is a link to a quick unedited video of using the adaptor. 
http://www.vholdr.com/node/76470

There is also a quick video of putting the clutch in and setting it up for the spring to be installed
http://www.vholdr.com/video/mounting-clutch-valkyrie

[RTaz]

Doing a clutch on my son's 97 as we speak...so far found a bearing with a slight catch in it and loose rivets ...replacing everything...

[Ricky-D]

And why are you going to do this work?

Because you are making a guess!!!

That's incredible!

***

[upjeeper]

so far i've found the shaft and pinion cup splines are shot. the new parts will be here today. I'm contemplating pulling the clutch cover while I'm this far into the bike to see what I can see (and try to determine if I have to go farther).

Is it as simple as pulling the clutch cover to see if any rivots have failed? would they be loose inside?

[Jeff K]

so far i've found the shaft and pinion cup splines are shot. the new parts will be here today. I'm contemplating pulling the clutch cover while I'm this far into the bike to see what I can see (and try to determine if I have to go farther).

Is it as simple as pulling the clutch cover to see if any rivots have failed? would they be loose inside?

No, you'd have to tear the whole thing apart.
Why mess with it?
If your splines were bad, you've found the problem.

[houstone]

I found pieces of the rivets and damper springs in the bottom of the housing.  If it is failed, you should see debris by the pickup screen in the right lower corner.
I'll post pics if I can, tonight.
Jeff